Camry :: Strut And Spring Assembly Replacement On 2007 LE
Dec 26, 2014
Looking to replace my strut and spring assembly on my 2007 Camry LE with 130,000 miles. What is the best China units out there. The list is many Prime Choice, Detriot Axle, Unity, FCS, AST, Sensen, ect.... Maybe they all are made at the same factory. FYI Monroe and Gabriel could be made in China. KYB complete units are assembled in USA, I called them up.
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I ran over a rather large pot hole while driving home in the middle of the night. It destroyed my tire and tire sidewall and soon after the strut started to make a knocking noise while going over bumps. I replaced both front strut assemblies with Monroe Quick Struts (photo attached). After the install, the noise was gone and everything seemed good so I gave the car to my wife. After several months, I decided to drive the car to see if everything was still OK and it wasn't. The knocking noise on the driver front strut came back.
I took the car back to my mechanic and he said that he thinks the strut assembly was defective and that I should get a replacement since it was under warranty. I would just pay labor again for him to change it. Something seemed off by the conversation, so I decided to take the car to another mechanic for a second opinion, but before I do that I want to pose this question here. What could be the problem? Why did the knocking noise come back?
I've attached more photos. You will see two photos of the tops of the strut assemblies from under the hood. The first top photo is of the passenger left strut that is good (with the wheels straight). The second top photo is of the problematic driver front strut. You can see the top is slanted left with the wheels straight. The rest of the photos are from around the driver side wheel.
I did complete a wheel alignment after the install and the car pulls left when the steering wheel is straight after the alignment.
More information about the Monroe Quick Strut: [URL] .....
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Took my 2004 Honda CRV 2W Drive to my local dealer for the 90K maintenance. There they recommended for me to replace the front shocks strut assembly--not quite remembering the reason but they told me that it needs to get done. Before I get the work done, I am trying to find as much info on what next steps to take.
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I'm trying to replace my dads 2007 Camry XLE japan built headlight assembly because his are insanely oxidized. Besides OEM's and CAPA's, what else are there? Any good aftermarket headlight assembly and achieve great results?
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So I installed my H&R lowering springs about 2 months ago and I am very happy about the stance, ride, and handling up until about 2 weeks ago. The car always had a bit of a spring clunk coming out of the driver's side strut tower, but it has become more apparent and pronounced over the last few days. I already tightened the strut nut and shock tower bolts, what else is there to check out?
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So I changed the front struts, springs, mounts, bearings, etc with factory Toyota parts. The car is a 2007 Camry LE 4 cyl with over 200k miles. While the car does not pull to one side, the steering wheel is now at roughly the 2 o'clock position for the car to be driving straight. Nothing else was changed, replaced, or modified. I do notice the car sits much higher now than it did before (old struts leaked oil and needed to be changed).
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I recently replaced my factory struts with KYB's all in one solution. I also did the craft felt mod that HardTop suggested. Ever since they have been replaced I'm getting a weird noise. When I turn the steering wheel in either direction it makes a rubbing sound that is very audible. The vehicle drives fine, and the struts ride really well. However, the noise is a touch annoying.
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I Spent the day yesterday replacing all four struts on my '07 LE. I went with KYB, the installation went well (so I assumed). I put everything back together exactly as I took it down. Outside of the struts alone, I reused all other parts as everything seemed to be in good order.
Test drive: I seem to have a knock/clunk when going over bumps/pot holes at low speed (<35 and especially <15mph). At highway speeds (65+), I do not hear it at all, even if I hit something. I had a friend ride in the back and confirm that it was coming from the driver's side (left) rear.
Took everything back out and inspected, I noticed that the strut mount has a flange that runs to the flat side of the strut rod that looked a little worn, so decided to go buy a new strut mount (Monroe garbage, only thing available locally). I did notice the Monroe strut mount didn't have that flange the OEM one had, it is just a circle...I didn't know if that mattered. I Put in new strut mount on, same sounds in the same conditions. I want the clunk to go away.
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I just replaced all 4 struts on my 04 Camry. The car has 87,000 on it. I went with the Monroe OESpectrum struts and new strut mounts (Monroe). Springs looked fine, the rubber spring seats were fine as well and the bellows, so reused those items.
I now have a noise in the rear end that I did not have before. It sounds like it is coming from the lower part of the car and is not metal sounding. It is a very dull clunk when going over bumps in the road and is coming from both sides.
I replaced the sway bar bushings a couple years ago. I checked those and there is no play and appear to be fine. Also checked the sway bar links and they seem fine to me, but not sure what makes those bad. Torqued what I could. Used an electric impact wrench on the strut nuts and could not torque that because the rod spins.
I am taking it in on Monday for an alignment and to have the shop see if they can figure out the noise. Is it possible that the new parts could be binding and the alignment may take care of it? I have doubled checked my work and everything appears to be on correct.
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I have a 2007 Camry with Eibach Springs with the stock struts. When I bought the car in '06 the front driver side strut was bad and replaced. This was before the springs. Recently, the other front strut went bad and was replaced. I am no longer a fan of Toyota's suspension parts for this car. In the near future I'd like to replace all four.
Any recommendations on good replacement struts that will work with the Eibach springs. A firmer ride is fine, as long as it is still comfortable. Quietness and durability (long life) are of concern as well.
I only plan on keeping the car a few more years so coilovers and similar products aren't option or worth spending that much money.
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I got a call from the wife at work telling me the vehicle was making a loud noise when being driven. I told her it was a bit hard for me to diagnose since I was at work and to leave it parked till I got home. She really had to go out so she decided to drive it a short distance and come home.
I got home and discovered the drivers side spring was sitting on top of the inside of the front tire. The spring had done a superb machining job of the tire tread to the point I was amazed that the tire still held air. Anyway long story short the beast is in the shop having both front springs and struts,tires etc. being replaced. The spring actually broke.
I just bring this to the group as I did a search on google and this is not an uncommon, occurrence on these santys. We /she are just lucky this happened at a low rate of speed,as a highway speed incident like this would not have been pretty.
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I have a rear rattle that I cant figure out had the wheel off and levered and pounded on links bushings etc. How can I access the top strut mounts to check them? Nothing found on youtube. Original struts on rear show no leaks or broken spring. Bouncing car does nothing neither does grabbing the tire at 12 and 6 or 3 and 9 position.
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I can't find the fuse for the overhead map reading lights. Which fuse is it and what is the rating?
I've found a bunch of videos on disassembling the light portion of the fixture but how can I take the entire fixture out? I'd like to tap into the power that's going to it.
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So there I was doing a simple oil change and when I took the filter out I noticed the little spring on top, in the center of the big spring (oil filter adapter) cocked to the side with the little plastic piece broken.
does anybody know if I can replace just the oil filter adapter (spring thingy that goes in the middle of the filter when installed) or do I have to replace the whole filter bowl assembly? And if so where would be a good place to get this part?
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My headlights suffered from the dreaded condensation problem. I brought them to Lexus after getting the warranty enhancement paperwork and had them replaced. Shortly after the passenger side wheel cover was ripped off after getting caught on some ice during a storm. It was very shortly after that that condensation begin appearing in my passenger side headlight.
At that point I was unaware that the wheel well cover had been ripped off. I brought it back to Lexus to have it looked at since I only had the headlight replaced a few weeks before. I was told it would be at a cost of $2,500 to replace with an additional $400 for the wheel well cover. Needless to say, I did not have the work done that day. While I was waiting them for them to finish the paperwork I bought the wheel well cover for $50 online but since then I've had difficulty locating the headlight.
I brought it to my mechanic and he was unable to find the headlight as well. I have a 2009 rx350 with HID AFS headlights. I have looked on ebay, Amazon and just through the internet to see what I could find but I'm finding only halogen headlights. Most of what I'm seeing on eBay are for non-adaptive lights that are damaged.
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I'm a not-terribly-handy (but not totally inept!) apartment dweller with few tools, but it looks like I'm going to need to go buy a deep socket. I park on the street and came out the other day to find my driver side tail light pretty smashed up. I found one for $75 at the junk yard and believe I can swap them myself. I found a YouTube video that shows how to do it on a Gen II. On the Gen II, the nuts holding the assembly in place are 10mm. Definitely not the case on the Gen I. They're much smaller. I have a set of sockets but nothing deep enough to get me past those long bolts, but I'd rather not buy a whole set, since I'm not even sure whether I'd need metric or standard.
what size nuts hold the tail light assembly in place on a 2001 Prius?
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I had my friend of mine who is a mechanic change my struts out this weekend. I had clunking noises from the right strut Toyota and also a tire place said I needed new struts. So I got them replaced now both sides are clunking see the YouTube video.
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I replaced my front struts today and afterward the ABS and "(!)" light came on as soon as I turned on the car. I checked the speed sensor lines and they all look okay so I didn't damaged them in the process. The car brakes quite soft but still works and the regenerative braking still works. The mechanic pulled the following codes: C1300 and C1319. I went ahead and reset the ABS light by crossing pin 4 and 13 on the OBD2 connector technique. That reset the lights, and the brake also works as normal as well. After driving around a bit, turned off the car, then turned it back on the lights came back on again.
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I've just begun to replace my front struts (Monroe quick strut pre-assembled). The thing is, the top bearing plate bolts and the lower mounting point are out of alignment by 90 degrees. The included directions say they can be rotated but gives no procedure and they do not just "turn" easily obviously. How to rotate them to fit??
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I am in need of replacing the passenger side Front Headlight assembly. I was wondering, how to assemble it outside of a repair shop. I was also looking to possibly get the part number so I can make sure I am purchasing the correct product for my 2012 VW Passat SE.
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The drivers side headlight assembly on my 2008 Prius has moisture in it. I have 52,000 miles on the car, so I do not think it is covered under warranty. What / how can you replace the headlight assembly?
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