Camry :: Steering Wheel Crooked After Strut Replacement
Apr 3, 2015
So I changed the front struts, springs, mounts, bearings, etc with factory Toyota parts. The car is a 2007 Camry LE 4 cyl with over 200k miles. While the car does not pull to one side, the steering wheel is now at roughly the 2 o'clock position for the car to be driving straight. Nothing else was changed, replaced, or modified. I do notice the car sits much higher now than it did before (old struts leaked oil and needed to be changed).
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I recently replaced my drag link which was loose and clunking around. I noticed my steering wheel is pointed at 11 while driving straight now. I'm not sure if it was like that before, the vehicle was new to me when I did most of the initial work.
It looks to me like I should be able to just adjust the drag link turnbuckle to change the steering wheel position but I'm not sure. Is that okay to do?
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After some off-roading and hit some pretty big bumps at speed, and now my steering wheel is about 15 degrees off, but the car is not pulling.
I am in another country where I don't speak the language well, so what should be done to fix this. I took it into the shop, and they pulled the car onto some electronic sensors and said the alignment was fine. They did a very visual inspection (glance?) under the car as well, and were ready to send me on my way.
I showed them that the steering wheel was off, and their solution was to just take off the wheel and put it back on straight. Is this what should be done to fix this problem? I do believe the alignment of the cars is okay because it's driving fine, but I'm still not sure if there is something else going on that caused the steering wheel to be knocked out of line. I've been doing some online searching and I'm not so sure that they are doing the right thing.
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I dropped off my 2006 Mercury Milan at a local Ford dealer this morning to have an AC temperature chip replaced because my air was not cold and prior diagnostics determined the chip no longer functioned. This turned out to be quite a costly repair. I was told it took 9 hours of labor requiring the entire dashboard to be removed. After picking up my car, I started driving home and immediately noticed the steering wheel was angled about 45 degrees to the right while I was driving straight. I have never seen something like this (and my car has been out of alignment before). I took it back to Ford to tell them that the steering wheel was crooked while the tires were straight and the manager said she didn't know how this could have happened because they never even lifted the vehicle. What might be wrong? Silver lining...the AC works now.
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Was tinkering on my car this morning, and at first noticed one side had a bigger gap than the other. Ok, I really need to change strut mount bushings, no big deal. Then I actually looked closer, and they both have some lean to them, but the drivers side is much more than the other one. Is this normal? I've never noticed any play in control arm bushings or anything. So what could be causing this? I would assume they are meant to sit flat but maybe not?
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Looking to replace my strut and spring assembly on my 2007 Camry LE with 130,000 miles. What is the best China units out there. The list is many Prime Choice, Detriot Axle, Unity, FCS, AST, Sensen, ect.... Maybe they all are made at the same factory. FYI Monroe and Gabriel could be made in China. KYB complete units are assembled in USA, I called them up.
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I recently replaced my factory struts with KYB's all in one solution. I also did the craft felt mod that HardTop suggested. Ever since they have been replaced I'm getting a weird noise. When I turn the steering wheel in either direction it makes a rubbing sound that is very audible. The vehicle drives fine, and the struts ride really well. However, the noise is a touch annoying.
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I Spent the day yesterday replacing all four struts on my '07 LE. I went with KYB, the installation went well (so I assumed). I put everything back together exactly as I took it down. Outside of the struts alone, I reused all other parts as everything seemed to be in good order.
Test drive: I seem to have a knock/clunk when going over bumps/pot holes at low speed (<35 and especially <15mph). At highway speeds (65+), I do not hear it at all, even if I hit something. I had a friend ride in the back and confirm that it was coming from the driver's side (left) rear.
Took everything back out and inspected, I noticed that the strut mount has a flange that runs to the flat side of the strut rod that looked a little worn, so decided to go buy a new strut mount (Monroe garbage, only thing available locally). I did notice the Monroe strut mount didn't have that flange the OEM one had, it is just a circle...I didn't know if that mattered. I Put in new strut mount on, same sounds in the same conditions. I want the clunk to go away.
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I had my passenger side cv axle replaced two months ago 2002 camry xle 110k miles for the ABS broken ring. After that start to here a shuddering intermittent noise from the front of the car more clear on turning the steering wheel, sometimes I here a metal on metal noise on bumps, axle was a brand new one and a press garage pressed the bracket on it..
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I just replaced all 4 struts on my 04 Camry. The car has 87,000 on it. I went with the Monroe OESpectrum struts and new strut mounts (Monroe). Springs looked fine, the rubber spring seats were fine as well and the bellows, so reused those items.
I now have a noise in the rear end that I did not have before. It sounds like it is coming from the lower part of the car and is not metal sounding. It is a very dull clunk when going over bumps in the road and is coming from both sides.
I replaced the sway bar bushings a couple years ago. I checked those and there is no play and appear to be fine. Also checked the sway bar links and they seem fine to me, but not sure what makes those bad. Torqued what I could. Used an electric impact wrench on the strut nuts and could not torque that because the rod spins.
I am taking it in on Monday for an alignment and to have the shop see if they can figure out the noise. Is it possible that the new parts could be binding and the alignment may take care of it? I have doubled checked my work and everything appears to be on correct.
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I want to replace my steering wheel. Will this puller work for that job?
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Replacing Steering Wheel position sensor. How hard of job is it?
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I had my friend of mine who is a mechanic change my struts out this weekend. I had clunking noises from the right strut Toyota and also a tire place said I needed new struts. So I got them replaced now both sides are clunking see the YouTube video.
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I ran over a rather large pot hole while driving home in the middle of the night. It destroyed my tire and tire sidewall and soon after the strut started to make a knocking noise while going over bumps. I replaced both front strut assemblies with Monroe Quick Struts (photo attached). After the install, the noise was gone and everything seemed good so I gave the car to my wife. After several months, I decided to drive the car to see if everything was still OK and it wasn't. The knocking noise on the driver front strut came back.
I took the car back to my mechanic and he said that he thinks the strut assembly was defective and that I should get a replacement since it was under warranty. I would just pay labor again for him to change it. Something seemed off by the conversation, so I decided to take the car to another mechanic for a second opinion, but before I do that I want to pose this question here. What could be the problem? Why did the knocking noise come back?
I've attached more photos. You will see two photos of the tops of the strut assemblies from under the hood. The first top photo is of the passenger left strut that is good (with the wheels straight). The second top photo is of the problematic driver front strut. You can see the top is slanted left with the wheels straight. The rest of the photos are from around the driver side wheel.
I did complete a wheel alignment after the install and the car pulls left when the steering wheel is straight after the alignment.
More information about the Monroe Quick Strut: [URL] .....
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I replaced my front struts today and afterward the ABS and "(!)" light came on as soon as I turned on the car. I checked the speed sensor lines and they all look okay so I didn't damaged them in the process. The car brakes quite soft but still works and the regenerative braking still works. The mechanic pulled the following codes: C1300 and C1319. I went ahead and reset the ABS light by crossing pin 4 and 13 on the OBD2 connector technique. That reset the lights, and the brake also works as normal as well. After driving around a bit, turned off the car, then turned it back on the lights came back on again.
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Took my 2004 Honda CRV 2W Drive to my local dealer for the 90K maintenance. There they recommended for me to replace the front shocks strut assembly--not quite remembering the reason but they told me that it needs to get done. Before I get the work done, I am trying to find as much info on what next steps to take.
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I've just begun to replace my front struts (Monroe quick strut pre-assembled). The thing is, the top bearing plate bolts and the lower mounting point are out of alignment by 90 degrees. The included directions say they can be rotated but gives no procedure and they do not just "turn" easily obviously. How to rotate them to fit??
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Just had an oil change and during inspection they noticed that the drivers side wheel bearing is starting to go. They brought me back in the shop and I was able to feel the play in the bearing myself. Only a matter of time before it needs to be replaced.
How to replace the front wheel bearing/hub assembly? I don't have a press for the bearing itself so I'm assuming I can just replace the entire hub assembly. I have already replaced the drivers side rear hub assembly about 1.5 years back due to a bad bearing
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Any good video/instructions/tips on replacing the front and rear struts on a 1998 Toyota Celica?
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I have to replace the torque strut mount in my 2008 Avalon XLS V6. I can't find the torque specs for the two bolts in my Haynes manual or at any online sites. Also, should I use either threadlocker or anti-seize on them?
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Since I got my car back from the dealership after changing the rear shock this summer, I can feel a vibration in the car at highway speed. After the shock were replaced the car steering wheel was out of balance and pulling one side. After they attempt to align the car about 5 times it got a little bit better. Then I found out that they had an accident with my car and tried to hide it: [URL] ....
I suspect the tie rod may have been damaged so that could explain the steering issue. It also seems to have gotten worse over time. I'm trying to figure out the possible cause, if directly related to the tie rod damage or indirectly as if the tie rod damage could have caused uneven tire wear and then causing the vibration over time. I've attached some pictures, the 2 first are from the front passenger side, the 2 last from the front driver side. My tire are the Michelin pilot and this thread seems to suggest those tire might be hard to align properly: [URL] ....
I'm due for my winter tire change soon and see if thing gets better, I'll get them balanced too. I'll check at the same time for control arms/shock damage. But still, I would like some feedback and see if those tread wear are normal and hopefully get to the root of the problem (the outer edge on the tire in the back are much less damaged).
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