Camry :: Stalled After Few Minutes Of Driving When Turn Off Then On After Changing Catalytic Converter
Jan 13, 2015
I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with 207K miles on it. I recently replaced the catalytic converter on it in order to fix the P0420 code. I drove the car to work the next day and the test came back under the max specs. I drove back home and everything was fine. No more CEL.
Now I have the problem where the car starts normal when its cooled down, but if I drive it for a few minutes and turn it off and back on again it stalls. If I let it cool down for a minute it will turn on but idle really rough like at 400 RPMs. At times it will stall back again.
The only other thing I did differently was pump a full tank of gas at a different gas station than I normally do. Before I changed the CAT I had no problems like this.
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I just took my 2005 Camry to get smogged and it failed. The reading said that my evaporator and my catalytic converter failed. I reset and drove her for almost 200 miles to get the reading settled, but that did not work. I checked all my fuses and the smog-guy and I have no clue what the issue could be. I don't think that the catalytic converter needs replacing since she only has 60,000 miles on her, but what could be the problem that it keeps saying 'fail'.
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06 Camry SE I4
I had to replace my catalytic converter because of the code I was getting. It wasn't difficult to do, but took me a while because I had to transfer the thread rods to the new CAT. Once the new CAT was installed, I went to test her out, but noticed that the car all of a sudden, has no electrical power. Nothing at all. I checked all fuses and nothing is blown. The only electrical I messed with on the car was the O2 sensor.
Car has a brand new battery from yesterday. The only thing I didn't do is install a support bracket on one side, because it was missing a bolt and one thread rod was stuck in the old CAT, i couldn't remove it.
A friend suggested that the missing bracket may be causing a ground issue. Is this true?
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I had my local garage do their electronic check when my check engine light came on. They said the code they got indicated a failed catalytic converter and quoted me $720.00 for a California compliant replacement, including labor. I live in Connecticut. I'd like to take a few days to get a second opinion and second quote, but the garage manager said that driving it in this condition would risk fouling the oxygen sensor, which I recently replaced for a couple hundred bucks.
Should I be concerned about fouling the oxygen sensor by continuing to drive the car? 2000 Toyota Camry...
I looked under the car and the rear attachment bolts to the converter are rusted beyond recognition. I'm tempted to try replacing it myself but it may be a bit beyond my skills.
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My 2006 stalled twice yesterday. Was running normally, then suddenly stalled after driving for 10 minutes. Error message said something like "insufficient power available". Started up fine after that, but a few miles later had the same problem.
Some potentially relevant background. The night before these two stalls I got some cheap gas from a no name station. A month earlier my car had a really rough start and check engine light came on, but it drove fine. Mechanic diagnosed a leak in the air intake tube (into turbo, I think), and replaced it. He said he got some strange codes though. (120D, 121B, 216D, 21E0 for air mass meter and fuel trim, and also control module comm code E000, 710B, 900B).
He said if the problem reoccurs I probably need an air mass sensor replacement. Thoughts?
Given it restarts so easily, I'm not too concerned re driving the ~10 miles to my mechanic, but I'll be avoiding highways and rush hour. Or, do you think, I can damage the car by driving to the mechanic?
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I have a 2000 Mazda Protege ES, with about 120,000 miles. On February 14th, Valentine's Day, my car broke down and has not functioned since then. Here's what happened, I was driving the car when it started to shake. It continued to shake for about 5 minutes, then it stalled. I was able to start he car again and it began shaking worse than before. Then it stalled again and it has not run since then.
The mechanic I've been working with has tried a new CAM sensor, replaced the computer and checked some of the electrical wiring. But nothing has worked. It's been almost 4 months and I am eager to get my car functioning properly right again.
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I have a 99 dodge ram i was driving it home the other night and it stalled out on me and will not turn over. When i try to start it it just clicks once and that's it. I just replaced the fuel pump and have already checked the starter, alternator, and battery and have still found nothing.
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I recently had my catalytic converter replaced with a non-OEM cat. The check engine light came on and a different shop (different from the shop that replaced the cat) said that it will keep coming on because I had the cat replaced with a non-OEM cat.
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I have a 2001 VT GTI with 155K miles on it. It is in very good condition. I have loved the car except for the high maintenance costs that typically seem to be associated with VWs.
I found out this week after my check engine light came on that the car needs a new catalytic converter and a new new secondary air pump.
Let's assume that this diagnosis is correct and the repair is accurate for the sake of this posting (and I have no doubt it is). In other words, I don't want to get my question derailed on that issue.
The car has new Michelin tires on it and runs well. The problem is that it will fail the state emissions test I am required to take next December, and I will either be forced to have the car repaired or will not be able to get updated license tabs (isn't that sweet?!).
It seems that I have a few options:
1. Get the repair done (ouch) and keep driving the car for a few more years. Repair cost is about what the market value of the car is (from what I have seen).
2. Sell the car "as-is" between now and December and see what cash I can get out of it. Any buyer will discount the value of the vehicle based on the repairs needed. Of course, then I'll need a replacement vehicle of some sort.
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See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
How to Replace a Catalytic Converter
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Air Intake and Exhaust Guides
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I have a 2000 Lincoln Town Car with a single exhaust system, part of/attached to the frontal area of the exhaust "Y" pipe are two lumps with heat shields, the muffler is obvious in the mid-section of the car, but are those "lumps" the catalytic converters, and if so, why two when the older cars had only one?
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Someone put sugar in my gas tank so I had it worked on at the Dodge place they replaced my fuel pump..fuel filter cleaned the tank..flushed the lines cleaned my injectors and replaced the plugs..I went to pick it up I barely made it a mile down the road I had no power and a lady flagged me down to tell me to pull over because I had sparks coming from the bottom of my van I looked under the van and the catalytic converter was red like hit coals the Dodge place is telling me its my flex plate? I think they are misdiagnosing the issue because before the sugar issue I had no problems with my van?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Prius that is currently in limp mode...
Took it to the dealer for diagnostics and they said the Catalytic Converter has failed...So I went online, bought a new one and replaced it. The symptoms prior the Cat replacement were still there...mpg loss, power loss, and exhaust air was not exiting the end of the pipe but actually leaking out the connection point where the Cat and the manifold met.
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So this morning (Kind of Cold) I went out site and started my car. I heard some noise under the car and I noticed that the noise bad been coming from the Catalytic Converter area and there was water dripping off of it.
My guess is that it was just warming up and the water was from the cold. Is it normal?
I have a GLX V6 ...
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I own a 2004 Acura RSX that I purchased new nearly 10 years ago. The car currently has 182,000 miles on it. Two years ago (approx. 130,000 miles), I had to replace the catalytic converter and both O2 sensors. This lightened my wallet to the tune of $1,200 (aftermarket franchise, OEM replacement). A few weeks ago, the "check engine" light came on. I used my scanner, and got the dreaded P0420 code, and had it verified by another shop. O2 sensors were OK. What REALLY shocked me was that replacement catalytic converters are only warranted for 5 years/25,000 miles (50k in CA). The first replacement piece lasted 52,000 miles (less than half the miles/years of the original part)
Here are THE QUESTIONS: What killed this catalytic converter? What can I do to prolong the life of this part? My car has the base powertrain that (according to the owner's manual) recommends 87 octane fuel. That's all I've ever used. The mechanic suggested moving up to mid-grade fuel, though he admitted that he wasn't sure.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Camaro. Two years ago my catalytic converter went out and I had it replaced. 20,000 miles later my mechanic says that I need to replace it again. Is this accurate? I thought the life of a Catalytic Converter was much longer.
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On my 2002 Subaru Forester (137,000 m), the check engine light came on. They diagnosed and repaired O2 sensor. About 300 miles later it came on again, this time they said the catalytic converter was cooked, and they blamed whatever caused the O2 sensor to fail (or the O2 sensor failure itself). After the repair (about $1300 and 30 miles later), I discovered that the engine oil was so low that it was not showing up on the dipstick (tho the oil light was not yet on). The shop (after admitting that they did not check the oil while it was in there) said it was related to catalytic converter failure. Does this make sense? I have only gone another 60 miles since the oil was refilled, but so far it looks OK. Should I be on the look-out for anything else?
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My car had its check engine light come on a few days ago, and the engine started to get extremely loud whenever I was accelerating. I would also smell gas whenever I would start the car. I decided to take it to a mechanic, who did a diagnostic check and told me that my catalytic converter was busted. This troubled me because I had just had the part replaced a little over two years ago. I figured the part would still be under warranty, but the mechanic that I had used to replace the cat told me that it was only under warranty for one year or 12,000 miles, according to the distributor. Well, I got a hold of the distributor, and he told me that he didn't have the information for the specific part that he used (he just told me that he "figured" it would be one year or 12,000 miles because most of the parts that they receive have warranties of that length....). Shops are closed now for the weekend, and I am getting worried about my bank account here...should I be?
Well, my questions for you all are as follows:1) Have you all ever heard of a catalytic converter ever having only a 1 year or 12,000-mile warranty? My current mechanic tells me he has never heard of one being so short, and that usually they are 5 years or 50,000 miles. I did minimal research on the internet and also found similar results.2) Who do I need to get into contact with in order to find out how long the warranty is, and how I redeem the warranty?
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The check engine light came on so I took my car in. My mechanic whom I've used for years told me the following: the catalytic converted had started to come off, in the process it pushed the oxygen sensor up against the body of the car and shorted it out. The total damage is that the O2 sensor and the cat has to be replaced. The line-item estimate was $104 for a sensor and $650 for a cat, plus labor. Total: $1000. Now, I'm looking online and seeing cats that work on my car for far less ($200-400 depending). I talked to another mechanic on the phone who verified cats don't have to be $650. My mechanic said they only use top quality parts with warranty, etc. But the other mechanic said that for a car that he wants to get moving again, a cat is a cat and any new part will, of course, come with a warranty. So... what should I do? Is $1000 too much? If I go with the mechanic who says he can get me down to $700, will that be cheap work on my car? It has 108K miles, and I'd like to get at least another few years out of it.
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Took my car in for emissions and says catalytic converter is not ready.
What can I do to make this go to "ready"?
I've recently got my computer flashed with new programming.
Since it's been flashed, I've driven the car over 400 miles.
All of the cars self checks should be complete, I can't figure out why the catalytic converter won't go to ready!
Any thoughts or tricks to make it work?
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We have a 2006 impreza, that we've been told the Catalytic converter is going out. We cannot seem to determine if there are one or two converters on this car, and want to know if this is something that we could do ourselves once we find out where everything is at?
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