Camry :: Sometimes Won't Crank When Turn The Key
May 23, 2013
Last fall I began to have intermittent problems getting my Solara to turn over. Most of the time I just turn the key and it starts. Once in awhile I turn the key and it won't crank. I brought it out of winter storage and it worked well for about a week, but today my wife had it do a no start twice. The only way to get it going is to turn the key many times and eventually it begins to crank and then start. Note: all of the lights on the dash do illuminate.
Tonight I took it over to AutoZone to have the battery checked for a dead cell, and everything showed up OK. I have already cleaned both battery terminals. I am thinking that the ignition switch may not always be making contact. Is it an easy job to just replace the ignition switch? Any security problems to anticipate?
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As the title says I incorrectly wired my jump start cables wrong when I was trying to jump start it. My car seems like it's completely dead now and afterwards when I did wire it correctly and let it charge for about 15 minutes no luck.
My odometer and just about everything in the car seems dead. When I put it in accessory the only electrical thing that seems to be working is the light where my ignition key goes into and all my regular lights inside the car. Thing's that don't work are my power seat and stereo/cd player
I have replaced all visible fuses underneath my hood and underneath my wheel as well. Does the Camry have some sort of safety fuse just in case incidents like these occur?
I bought a new battery but my car still won't crank or turn over. Some say it might be the solenoid or the starter. But I don't know.
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A month ago I got into my truck in the morning and when I turned the key to Run everything lit up like normal and after the glow plugs warmed up, I turned the key and there was about a two second delay between me turning the key and the engine cranking over.
The next couple times I tried starting the truck that same morning I had to try to start it a couple times because it wouldn't try to crank over the first couple times but it would always eventually start.
It's been continuing to give me problems but never stopped running once it was started and then this morning I tried starting it for 45 minutes with no luck.
What I have tried so far is:
Resetting batteries
Jumping the truck
Checked to see if the starter is getting power. ( I put wire testers on it while someone else started and I didn't get a good reading even when it did start. New starter was put in 9 months ago.)
I also made sure wire going to starter wasn't corroded
Battery terminals are also not corroded
Checked fuses
Tried starting truck with fan clutch disconnected
Cussing at it
Tapping starter with a hammer while trying to start it
Also, everything sounds perfectly normal when I turn the key, it just doesn't even try to turn over.
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so all of a sudden when I turn the key it seems to have an extremely long crank to turn over, almost like im holding it down to long, i can turn it quick and let it go and it will catch, hold it longer than normal and let it go and it will still catch...took it to the dealer and had them scan the car but there are no codes/faults coming up......its been doing it for a week now and today it won't start at all, it just keeps on cranking but won't turn over but yet I still have codes or faults....battery is good cuz I had it tested as well.
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99 Saturn SL2 will turn over but not crank. No fire to the plugs,,,,,,,change out the crankshaft positioning sensor, removed and cleaned ignitions module and coil pack, still wont crank and still no fire to the plugs.
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I have a 07 toyota avalon that will not start. About a week ago my wife goes to start the car and nothing. She got a jump and it worked fine for a couple of days. Then she was driving on Oct 25th and the car died out, so due to the battery being less than 6 months old the next step was the alternator. Had the alternator tested and it had to be replaced. We replaced it and it still will not turn on.
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2001 V6, 5sp .... Engine will not crank/turn over.
Dealer initially thought broken timing belt. They looked again today (through an inspection hole) and belt was still in place and under tension but some teeth seemed to be missing. They THINK it could be a seized water pump that caused this (there was otherwise no indication of a seized water pump). Cams/belts do not move when you try to start it. Dealer said engine would need to be replaced or the damage repaired from trying to start it and causing whatever internal damage this causes..heads, valves, etc. that's where it stands now.
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For about two weeks, my Blazer would crank but not start on the first turn of the key. After a couple of tries it would start and as long as the engine was not off for more than a few hours, it would start again with no problem. While driving however, the engine would periodically "hitch" like it was missing a spark, or not getting any gas. As of last weekend, the engine will not catch at all, and a light on the dash shows "low fuel" even though the tank is almost full.
Spoke to a mechanic who (without looking at it) diagnosed a fuel pump problem at a cost of around $1,000. Is there any other problem which may cause this issue? I have very limited mechanical ability, and cannot pull the spark plugs to test them, as they seem to be buried in the lower half of the engine block.
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I have a 97 accord that i am having issues with. When I turn the key it does not crank luckily it is manual tranny so i jump start it. the battery is good i also put new terminals thinking those were the issue but still having problems.
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I have a 2000 Jimmy and it just won't start. All lights come on and horn works. No crank when I turn the key. I had this problem before and the problem was a bad starter relay. I replaced the relay. The vehicle started up fine and ran fine for a few days. I went to start it this morning and it wouldn't. Battery is good, changed the plugs, wires, starter, cap and rotor within the last 8 months. Someone made a reference to my security system. Are there known electrical problems/interference between security system and other systems?
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So I have noticed a couple things about my stereo that puzzle me. I have the Dynaudio NAV system w/6 CD changer in the glove box.
1. I had the doors done with Dynamat and it definitely sounds better but the problem is that if I crank it I have to turn the Bass way down otherwise it distorts. Now correct me if I am wrong but shouldn't the amp and speakers be perfectly matched so this doesnt happen.
2. I have the AUX input button on, screen and I can select it but there is no jack in my glove box where all the literature says it is supposed to be. My VW/Audi service manager printed out a build sheet and it doesnt seem to be on there.
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My garage was struck by lighting this morning, and about two hours later I heard a very loud snap coming out of the vicinity of my garage. The snap was so loud, my ears were ringing. When I went to start my car (2002 Mercury Grand Marquis), it would just crank, but never turn over. The interior lights and trunk lights did not work, so I replaced the battery thinking that the power surge could have affected the electrical system of my car...and I needed a new battery anyway. With the new battery installed, all of the lights once again work, but the car still will not start. The voltage meter is low and it never runs low. I tried resetting the fuel pump shutoff, but it was never tripped and I can hear it pumping when I turn the key on. Is it likely that the mechanical failure is due to forces outside of electricity even though this car has never failed to start, or could the electrical surge have affected something else (alternator, fuses, etc.)?
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Turn key
Click
Headlights do not dim at all
No crank
This has happened three times now, about a month to six weeks apart. Eventually it starts exactly like normal. I can't put my finger on exactly what I did between "not crank" and "crank like normal" but it wasn't anything significant, that's for sure.
Tonight I cleaned the battery terminals, but they actually looked very good. Looking back, I should have checked how tight they were before taking the cable off, but I didn't. Not sure whether a loose cable could explain these symptoms.
I was thinking this was starter or solenoid? Any other diagnosis consistent with the symptoms?
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My car is a 97 Nissan Sentra GXE (4-cyl, 1.6L) manual. It won't start. I put the key in, turn it--all the lights come on, but it won't crank, turn over... nothing. It died, then started again Sunday morning. I drove it to work Tuesday, and it died in the lot... as in, it wouldn't start again. It's still in the lot at my job, and I figure I'd give it one last try before having it towed to the Car Cemetery.
Reading forums online, I see a few cases of the same thing. One suggested solution is the Neutral safety switch, the other is the solenoid on the starter (??). I looked everywhere for the solenoid, don't see one, so I assume it's on the starter. I have NO clue where the Neutral safety switch would be--I see nothing on the transmission and nothing under my dash as was noted in these forums.
IIs it one or the other? It appears this may be a Nissan-Personality thing... I'm just trying to keep my Rusted, Dying Love running till I can replace it. (It also has a leaky oil pressure valve, but the oil level is fine, if that makes a difference.)
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Periodically my X doesn't want to start. Doesn't even turn over or crank. The weird thing is, sometimes it acts like the battery is too weak and the radio will flash on or maybe I hear a fast kink-kink-kink sound. Other times, it's just dead, like it doesn't even have a battery in it. Eventually it works again and cranks like a charm. Starts right up.
The ground from the battery to the fender looks good. I noticed the ground from the frame to the body was gone, so I replaced that. Didn't change a thing. I'm reading all the things it COULD be and I'm getting frustrated. I hate electrical problems.
2000 V10 Excursion XLT, 180,000 miles
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About 6 weeks ago I became the proud owner of an '88 240 wagon with ~ 235,000 miles.
When turning the key over to start Lucy (that's her name) most times she will crank for 3 to 5 seconds before indeed starting. I can avoid those 3 to 5 excruciatingly long seconds if I let her crank for a time or two then let her rest for a second - after that she will start up immediately when I turn the key again. This situation happens probably 14 times out of 15. The 15th she will start like a dream the first time. I have had the battery tested (although I could not find a date on the battery and the previous owner did not know when it was purchased), and I have completed a full tune up (plugs, wires, rotor and cap) among other maintenance issues as well.
Attached File(s)
Lucy.JPG ( 3.4MB )
Lucy_Under_the_Hood.JPG ( 3.87MB )
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I Have a sonata 2007 2.4L automatic and I just had a start problem today. I turned the start key and nothing no crank, all the light in the dashboard are ok, i can hear the fuel pump and my batery is fine. I tried 5 time to start it and nothing I wait 10 minutes and the car started ..
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My 2008 Accent will intermittently crank crank and will not turn over. You can hear it trying to start but it seems like its not getting fuel. Then I will stop turning the key, try again and it will start. It may do this two or three times before starting. I have no codes.
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If I turn on my ignition switch and my gauges go to where they're supposed to be, the truck will crank. If I turn switch and , lets say gas needle for example, the needle goes to full then drops back to empty, the engine will turn over but will not crank.
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It's a 01 Ranger 3.0 V6 5 spd 2wd. He drove home from work then the next morning wouldn't crank over. Turn the key and it doesn't even attempt to crank. All dash lights, headlights, etc come on. Battery is good. Took starter out and tested at parts store. Tested good. Clutch switch was good. Replaced ignition switch with no change. If I jump the solenoid on the starter it will turn the engine over. When turning the key I can hear the starter relay in the fuse block under the hood clicking. All fuses were good. I found the main engine ground wasn't hooked up to anything. I hooked it back up and still nothing. All battery connections were good but cleaned them anyway. Not really sure where to go from here.
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My wifes explorer will not attempt to turn over. When I turn the key to the run position the dash does not do anything. I dont get any indicator lights or anything from the dash. And also the PATS light in now a steady dim light. So now I am confused and don't know where to start on this one. Is this a PATS issue or is my instrument cluster the problem? I did read the TSB on the cluster.
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