Camry :: Shaking When Coming To A Stop And Shutting Off
Aug 21, 2013
Recently my Camry has been shaking when coming to a stop and shutting off. It feels similar to when a car runs out of gas. I replaced the battery less than a year ago. I don't know where to start.
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Bought the Camry new in May 2006. Besides the oil hose leak (which a recall fixed), it's been a perfect car.
Fast forward to the present. I needed a brake job, so my master mechanic buddy installed front and rear powerslot rotors and akebono performance pads and flushed my brake fluid. No problems with the brakes.
A few weeks later I wanted to treat my car to a 90K full transmission flush (it's first transmission service). I had it flushed at a local toyota independent shop. They used WS fluid. A few hours later, my transmission which shifted perfectly fine before the flush started shifting weird. I thought the computer had to relearn my wife's driving style. When she brakes hard (if she's going 50 and the light turns yellow and she brakes hard, her car slows down normal, but right before it comes to a complete stop is when the car shakes. She said it started right after the transmission flush.
A few days later when she was at a red light, the car check engine lit up with a check battery (she thinks that's what it said on the screen). When the light turned green, it wouldn't accelerate, but it would roll forward when you let go of the brakes. When she got to a safe place to park/stop she turned off the car. A few minutes later she turned the car back on and it was fine.
I told that to one of my buddies who had something similar happen to him in his 06 Mustang GT, the Ford dealer cleaned his throttle bottle and maf sensor and he was on his way. I had my throttle body and maf cleaned. Now with new brakes, new brake fluid, a flushed transmission, a clean throttle body and maf, I thought everything was good.
On the freeway , the car would not shift to 4th gear or higher. So I exited the freeway, drove the surface streets to a independent Toyota shop. Left the car there all day, they could not find anything wrong. So, right now everything is back to normal except the shaking when you are almost at a complete stop, which started AFTER the transmission flush, what that might be?
To describe the shaking problem, imagine I'm driving 45-50, light turns yellow, I slow down, 50-20 is fine, maybe even 50-15 is fine, but the car shakes right before it fully stops.
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I disconnected the battery yesterday and once I connected it back the car felt like it was gonna turn off and ever since when I'm in a stop it starts shaking. Is their anyway to fix the idle time ....
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We have a '95 GMC Vandura G2500 and today when we took off from a stoplight the van suddenly started vibrating like crazy and running rough. It was making a knocking noise and the van kept shaking the whole way home. The shaking was worse both coming to a stop and accelerating. We could also smell gas when we stuck our heads out the window.
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So it's an issue I've noticed 3 times now this summer. The car has been driven for at least 5 minutes each time and should be past the warm up phase. If I'm sitting at a light, the gas engine just keeps running. I thought it might be some kind of computer error so I tried powering the car off and turned it back on. EV mode will stay on for about 30 seconds but then the gas engine turns on again. Battery is 3/4 full like normal with the AC on. I've tried putting the car in EV mode but it says "not available". Temps in Houston have been in the high 90's recently so I'm wondering if this is the result of an overheated battery or if it's something I need to be worried about and take in to the dealership?
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Our 2005 Prius with 160,000 miles is displaying warning lights and the gasoline engine is reving at times and not shutting off when the car is at a stop light.
The dealer says it is throwing a P3000 and P0A80 codes. I asked for subcodes, the dealer doesn't know what I am talking about.
The dealer wants to replace the hybrid computer for $900 and if that doesn't fix it they want to replace the hybrid battery for $3500.
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After starting the car and driving for about 10-15 minutes a few days ago I came to a stop in a parking lot and the car shut off and would not re-start for about 5 minutes. The car started again so I shrugged it off and drove on. About 10 minutes down the road again the oil lamp started to flash and the STOP warning came up. I unfortunately was on a one lane construction zone so I had to limp for a minute to clear it so I could pull over. The car would switch from responding/non-responding to the gas pedal. Finally pulled it off to the side got it towed home and to the mechanic. I haven't heard any news yet but I'm trying to gather some info.
Just a few things I've read about looking into :
-ECT (Engine coolant temperature sensor) ...
-Oil pump ...
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The electric radiator fan motor in my 1992 Buick is begining to squeak. It's most noticeable during its gradual stop after shutting off the engine. Will WD40 or some other lubricant applied to its shaft remedy the problem? Or, will it be just a temporary fix before its inevitable failure?
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2002 Camry is jerking and bucking at high speeds then stalls after coming to a stop. Will restart immediately if you give it gas. Then I must keep pressure on accelerator at all times even while stopped or car stalls. Shut car off and let sit for 20 to 30 minutes. Once restarting must give it gas, but then car runs without stalling. However has no trouble on cold start.
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I recently purchased a 2005 Camry XLE V6 (100K miles). Its in great condition and no issues except I am observing this:
-> When I come to stop (like at a stop sign), just before coming to complete stop, there is a slight forward jerk. When I come to stop slowly and smoothly, there is no problem.
the faster I come to stop the more severe is the jerk. I tried to search for answers on the web, one possibility is bad solenoid in the transmission.
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Today after school I hopped into my car and turned it on, it made a weird clanking kind of sound, but then sounded normal. I turned it off and it did the same thing again. I put the car into drive and it was so slow accelerating. I had my foot to the floor and it was barely catching speed while my rpm was somewhere in the 5000's. I got home and I don't know what to do. ALSO, when my Escape is at a stoplight, it turns off and shows the engine light. What's going on. I had to put my car into park, re-ignite the car and go through, again, acceleration tremendously slow. It is a Ford Escape 2001 XLT with a new engine with 80k miles on it.
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I have a 2002 F350 with the 7.3 diesel. I have had this truck since it had 30K miles on it and it now had 90K miles. It has been trouble free minus new pads and batteries. I recently changed the fuel filter and used a Donaldson filter. In the last week while driving the truck just mysteriously shuts off when I slow down for a stop sign. The only lights on the dash is the red battery light, and it fires right back up. I believe it has the original CPS in it as I have never changed it. Do you think this is the CPS going out or something else? I was wondering if the Donaldson fuel filter has anything to do with it?
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Recently bought a black 20th for my girlfriend for Christmas. Any ways, so I floored it from a dig, and the ASR light kept coming on during acceleration and shutting off between shifts, just wondering what the situation is.
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I have a 2015 Sonata 2.0T limited, and there is a noise coming from the back, driver's side, after shutting off the motor. I've taken it in 3 times for this, and each time they say nothing is wrong; but, I've driven a lot of cars and trucks, and I've never heard a noise like this.
I'm guessing it's some kind of gas tank related valve that's closing, but it's making a very loud noise each time.
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Just recently noticed in the past 2 weeks, that after shutting off my Tuscon, about a minute or 2 later it makes a popping noise coming from the back. It almost sounds like a piece of metal when it expands.
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2012 6.7 F250 with 17k miles. It's getting hotter here and the last couple of days when shutting down there is a sound coming from the engine compartment that sounds like an air pump on one of those load-leveling systems. It will go on for about 15 seconds then stop.
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Every 3 or 4 days my 2000 Camry 4Cyl Std Tranny keeps blowing out the 30A Buss Fuse in the under hood fuse box. What this fuse runs and what could be the problem. I don't think my Fan Motors are running could this cause the Fuse to pop.
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2006 Toyota Camry 4 Cyl Manual Transmission. I'm getting a PO017 code - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit Low Input.
The dashboard temp gauge reaches a red H at low speeds. After about 15 minutes of driving, the car overheats and shuts down when the car slows down. I wasn't at home and didn't have coolant, so I put water in the coolant reservoir. 15 minutes later at home, the car overheated and shut down. The water in the reservoir was boiling and steaming.
When the car is idle, the radiator fan turns on immediately. I noticed the passenger side fan doesn't run. Could the one fan be the problem?
I was also really low on oil and added oil. There's oil on the engine block too. I might have multiple problems at the same time. See pics. [URL] .....
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My mom was driving to pick me up and she said that all of a sudden about half way here that the car started making a knocking sound and white smoke started coming from hood, the car was also trying to shut itself down while she was trying to pull over. It is a 2000 ford taurus with like 130k. I am so scared that it is the head gasket because my mom, myself and my daughter, and my 16 year old sister all share that car to get around. Is there anything else it could be besides that or is that probably what it is?
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My F150 went the first 80,000 miles with no problem, but since that time I have a problem with warped rotors, currently 190,000. It shakes as you try to stop. I had the rotors turned. Lasted about 5000 miles and then warped again. Replaced the rotors, warped again. Turned rotors, warped again. Been driving with them warped trying to figure out what is causing them to warp. Wondering if there is something that is causing most of the braking load to be on the front brakes.
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I have 2007 LS460 (bought a week ago) with 88000 miles on it. Recently I found a very strange issue, that the car shakes (you can definitely feel it, but not too serious) when I stop at red light.
But the issue goes off at night. It turns out to be the headlight. When I turn on the headlight the car barely shakes, so that's why I do not have the problem at night.
Is it the alternator's problem? Or the battery? I hope it is not the alternator..
In addition, I brought it in to Lexus dealer and they did a health check. They said they did not find any code and all systems are OK. Does it mean that if they say OK, then at least I will not see big problem right now?
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