Our '02 Toyota Camry with 92,000 miles has been idling rough for awhile. I tried cleaning the throttle body which actually seemed like it made it worse for awhile. I do need to replace the valve cover gasket and I don't think the spark plugs have ever been replaced. Is that a good place to start?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 4 cyl Camry with about 147K. I bought the car from the original owner a few weeks ago. The check engine light came on. The car idles very rough at low idle (e.g., while stopped with transmission in Drive). My mechanic changed out the EGR and another air flow valve that was apparently stuck open too much of the time, and also the engine idle air control valve. The check engine light is now off but I don't think it was related to the rough idle because that started before the check engine light. I have seen other forums that discuss the rough idle related to fuel dampener and also weak/broken motor mounts and haven't checked those out yet.
View 3 RepliesI got a 1998 Toyota Camry with 2.2L 4 cylinders and have almost 210K miles on it.
Starting about 2 months ago, I was experiencing some minor engine kicking when it was either idling or accelerating, not really such a big deal. About a month ago, I took it to my mechanic shop and he told me that I need to clean up the throttle body. I took his advice, let him did the work and the car still doing the same thing. I did a lot of research on the internet and many people suggested replacing the spark plugs and after I replace the plugs (Bosch, not something cheap), the situation got even worse.
The engine starts kicking more frequently and violently and the “Check Engine” light came on (and flashing). I took my car to a local auto parts store and have their people get the error code for me, it was something about engine misfire and they told me I should have my mechanic to take a look.I took the car back to my mechanic, 2 days later when I called him for update, he told me the cause of the problem was the spark plug cables didn’t plugged in securely. But just before I drove off the mechanic’s parking lot, the engine did it again. I didn’t go back to ask my mechanic because I truly believe he did not want to spend any more time on my car.
Here are the current conditions of my car,
•It never fail to start when the engine is cold or warm
•When I stopped at traffic light, the engine ran smoothly, after about 10 to 20 seconds of idling, it starts kicking. It will do this no matter if my gear in in P, R, N or D.
•When the car is completely stop and then I press the accelerator, the engine will act like it’s going to choke and if I keep holding the accelerator, 2 to 5 seconds later it will rev up and going
•I will be even worse if I have my AC on.
•It runs smoothly if it on the highway
•It always acting up if I try to make a 90 degree right turn and never happens on a left turn
•The “Check Engine” light did come up again but went away 2 days later.
•I made a hard brake yesterday and it took the car about 15 seconds to be able to rev up the engine again.
2002 Toyota Camry
2.4 V4
My car has developed a rough idle when stopped and when accelerating. When I got the CEL, I had the codes read at Advance Auto.
The codes are P0301, P0302, P0303, P1349.
My mom drives a 2002 Toyota Camry with a 2AZ-FE engine and 180,000 miles on it. Recently she started hearing a rattling sound coming from the engine. She says the sound does not go away after the engine has warmed up. I took a short video of the sound. How to go about diagnosing the issue.
View 4 RepliesCar is idling rough. Mechanic said it might be an oil restriction not getting to a sensor and advancing the timing.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Camry SE (V6) with approx. 180K miles. The Engine mounts were shot so I decided to change them. I am a reasonably qualified mechanic (FAA Aircraft Mechanic) and perform most my work on my cars so didn't think this would be a big deal.
My procedure was to jack up front & put frame on jack stands then removed both wheels. Then with hydraulic jack and blocks under oil pan I started by removing all or the three lower engine mount hold down nuts (3 on bottom, 1 on top of each. NOTE: I changed the dogbone first which took 5 minutes.
I then jacked up engine about two inches or so and pulled out each old mount, then lowered engine back down making sure everything lined up as best I could. Then finished by tightening all of the nuts. Done. ....or so I thought.
When I went to start, the engine cranked but with a an unusual vibration and generally rough idle, more noisey than usual. When I drive it shift fine and everything works, just unusual vibration and noisey inside car.
I also used my BOSCH code checker and got ZERO CODES.
What is even more unusual is the engine when you are outside the car listening sounds fine. Just sitting inside do I sense the unusual vibration and noisy idle.
I checked for loose vacuum hoses, anything obviously pulled loose, etc and found nothing.
Again the car started and idled fine before the engine mount change now starts kind of rough and is noisy [inside car] but quiet outside.
nothing really changed except the moving of the engine block up and down to get the old mounts out.
I have a 93 Corolla LE and in October I was driving in heavy rain and the car died. Since then I have replaced the spark plug wires, plug seals, distributor cap, battery, and rotor. The car would get me from A to B, but I would always have to put it in neutral at a stop to keep it from dying. This past week we've had a lot of rain and it's been really cold so my car has been dying when I slow down or stop. I gave it plently of time to heat up thinking it would work, but it died three times on the way to work.
View 15 RepliesAfter a long trip from Houston to Dallas, my vehicle started to ride rough and eventually die on idle. It seems to idle fine, but then die after the first minute. I am getting code P306 and others all dealing with random misfires and misfires on ALL cylinders. The troubleshooting steps I have taken so far to no avail are:
(1) Replaced spark plugs with pre-gapped iridium
(2) Checked ignition coils
(2) Checked all vacuum hoses and air intake leaks
(3) Changed air filter(not a big deal)
(4) Removed and cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner thoroughly
(5) Checked the intake manifold for leaks and did not find any.
(6) Computer PCM checked for updates and issues at dealer
The dealer said it needed new fuel injectors, which seemed kind of fishy due to the following symptom:
The car runs GREAT at highway speeds, but it is unable to maintain an idle for an extended period of time and dies due to misfires. I hear a chugging in the engine sometimes.
Due to these symptoms, I self diagnosed this as a fuel regulator?
ok,up to yesterday, my wife's car started and ran fine. but we had not driven it in about 3weeks, and it was on empty. well, my kids would listen to the radio and, i think, starting it while we were at work. anyway, they ran it out of gas. so put gas in it, 3gallons, turned the key on and off a couple of times to get a good prime. started it up, died, i figured not enough fuel, yet tried again. started, but started spitting and sputtering and idling really ruff, had to hold to the floor to keep it running. removed the maf. it started and did the same. finally, i held down the gas and brake at the same time, took off to the store, got gas, but it died half way there. got it to the pump, put more gas thinking that's the problem. nope, the same. got it home, but when i let off the gas, it idles like it's not getting fuel and dies. so, any clue what it is? remember, 3 weeks ago it ran fine.
View 1 RepliesCar: Toyota Camry 2002 .. Mileage: 150K
Symptom:Check Engine light went on a few days ago.
Checked codes and got these (3):
1) P0420
2) P1310 and
3) P0420 P ("Pending" ?)
I also checked I/M Readiness and got these suspicious-looking values:CAT: NOT RDYEVAP: NOT RDYO2S: NOT RDYH02S: NOT RDY
NOTE all the other I/M values were N/A
Researching the Codes, it sounded like Ignition, and possibly the O2 sensor on the Catalytic Convertor. I had just had some engine work done by the dealer -- actually, replaced spark plugs -- so I figured to go back and bitch him out for screwing up my car.
A few days later, before I could engage my Rage, I went back and re-scanned. First I noticed the CEL was now OFF. Scanning, I now I get "NO CODES", and all the I/M values are now N/A; No more "NOT RDY".
What do you all make of this? Should I be concerned now that the CEL is Off, and I get No Codes with a scan?Or maybe I should take it to AutoZone for their free CEL diagnosis -- would their machine be more thorough than mine (Autel MaxioScan 300)??
So I've had ongoing issues with this car that no mechanic seems to be able to diagnose. It jerks when I accelerate and decelerate pretty badly. It sometimes lets out a big cloud of smoke right when I start it. Now, it has developed some pretty violent shaking when I first start it up. It will only do this if the engine is completely cold and car has been sitting overnight. I feel like all these symptoms are related somehow. I have changed all the spark plugs and cleaned the throttle body. I've also had all the motor mounts replaced. I really wish the engine light would come on but it will not and never has.
It's really annoying that it only happens on startup so when I take it to the mechanic, well, they can't replicate it. What to try?
2002 Toyota Camry LE V6 136k miles Automatic
My wife stopped for gas at a Circle K, about two days later this Sienna started idling rough and missing. I put some Seafoam in it and it cleared up. About one week later, she gets gas again, at another Circle k,about two blocks from the other one. Again, the next day she comes home from work complaining of the van running rough. I took it out and it drove fine. Whenever this happens the Check Engine light comes on, so I ran a code reader on it and it tells me, "Miss detected on cylinder 3".
So I checked all the plug wires, took out the plug (which I had just changed back in Oct.) and checked it, it looked fine. I thought maybe it could be the coil, so I switched the coil to see if I got the same code reading on a different cylinder. I unhooked the battery to clear the code after switching the coils, started it up and still got the rough idle and code. I turned it off (the van) and go in the house, I come back out and start it and it's running fine. I go to the store and all is well, go inside the store for maybe 45 minutes, come back out and start it up, I get the rough idle and missing.
I ran the code reader on it again and cleared the code, then restarted it and it was running fine again. Whatever it is, it has something to do with starting the engine (a 3.1L). One time it will start up and drive fine, the next time it starts the rough idling and missing. I figured if it was the coil and I switched them and got the same code on a different cylinder I'd narrow it down, but so far it has been running normally.
My car is a 94 camry, but has a 96 1MZ-FE engine from a avalon. Bought used and has been a great car for ~3 years. Just hear last couple weeks, it would start running and idling rough for a few minutes at a time. The last time I drove it home, it completly stopped on me on the side of the road. It finially started to make it home and now have in the garage. Now it will crank, but won't start. After you crank it, shut iginition switch off, then back to start position, you get a pop out the exaust pipe. From these forums and my haynes manual, I've checked the camshaft sensor, it appears ok (1.1k ohms), crankshaft sensor (2.0 k ohms), 3 of my coil packs, front side (1.4 ohms) manual says .5 to .85 ohms, so i'm not sure about this, the mass air flow meter (2.9k ohms), and it has the 5 volts to it, coolant temp sensor (2.3k ohms), replaced this last year. I haven't checked fuel pressure, since I have to go rent a tester.
View 14 RepliesMy Dad Purchased an 06 Camry, 2AZ-Fe engine w/140,000 miles on it from a family member. He was told that the engine had some issues but wasn't specific about the problem. He recently passed and left the car to me. I used to be a mechanic but i have little knowledge on Toyota. The car cranks/starts easy, but idles very rough. I scanned it and the codes I retrieved were p0300,0301,0302,0304. I haven't done a compression test or a leak down yet, but plan to tomorrow. I also will check resistance on the coils and check the condition of the plugs. I looked through some old posts on here, and seen this engine has head bolt issues. pcv issues. and oil consumption issues. Should i pursue trying to fix this or leave this project alone.
View 3 RepliesMy 2002 Toyota Camry XLE V6 (115k miles) stalls once every 4 months (happened thrice in the last year) or so when I'm braking & bringing the care to a complete stop.
The check-engine light comes on just before the car completely stops. The steering wheel feels locked. Putting it back in parking, turning off & turning it back on doesn't work. The car doesn't start. After 10-15 minutes, If I put the key in, turn it on & try to turn the steering wheel while turning it on, it turns back up & runs without any issues for the next few months.
I've taken the car to 3 different mechanics (including a Toyota dealership mechanic) & they tell me that the car is in great condition (I've done a lot of preventive maintenance on the car). They can't find any error codes & they checked everything but can't find any issues
While driving with cruise control set at 80 mph in my 2002 Toyota Camry, the engine suddenly revved up to 4200 rpm while going up a hill on the freeway. I was wondering if this sudden high rpm could do damage to the engine? The car has 163,000 miles on it.
View 8 RepliesHaving problem with 2010 Toyota Corolla. Engine light comes on as well as VSC and traction control but the engine does not shut off. I loose power and engine runs really rough. I have to pull over and unplug my battery cable and the problem is gone until a week or two later same thing happens. My gas mileage is about 10 km for every 100KM city and Highway mix. The engine idle is also rough and sometimes when I try to do a U turn or get in and out of parking the engine shuts off.
Engine scanned shows P0010 and it could be three or for causes? My problem is that mechanics change one thing which costs an arm and a leg then if that did not fix the problem they say now lets change another part? I can not afford to fix them one by one and get charged for it as they replace one part at a time.
I have 2002 camry 4 cylinders and has 175,000 miles. I was driving on the freeway and suddenly I felt a jerky motion and check engine light came on. When I stopped at light the car began to vibrate and when started driving at low speeds it got me home. Admittedly I had put lot of hard miles on the car in past 6 months and I was lazy in getting oil changed in time. It might have been 7000 miles since oil chg. I took the car to local oil change place they did not mention anything about engine but they said my transmission oil was dark and burnt. They said I should flush and replace. I agreed and tech said he had to do second flush as oil was still dark. After second flush, he said its little bit better.
I was hoping this would solve my problem but unfortunately no. Car was still vibrating and when i drove at slow speed it was driving but as soon as I tried to accelerate the car lost power. Check engine light has been on since the incident at freeway, but now check oil light and battery sign came on. The power steering lost power. I had to park the car and restarted, as long as I drove very slowly it would drive but if I tried to accelerate where the rpm went from 1 or to next level car would loose power with warning lights on. I had recently replaced fuel pump, filter and any repair which was suggested to me. Admittedly I have not done timing chain or belt.
Camry 2002 LE (4 cyl Auto), 140K mi
This morning, for the first time I can recall, the car would not start right away. Had been sitting in the garage for 2+ days. Starter would crank just fine, but engine would not fire. No lites were left on overnite. Finally (after about 6+ attempts), engine started -- runs fine now.
Took it to TOY dealer. Their diagnosis: weak battery, alternator low output.Happy, had recently (6 mos) replaced battery after 4 years of use, so got a new battery N/C.TOY ran a charging system check and it shows "Alternator Condition: OK" (midway between shitty and great I recall).
Funny, but my first thought when it would not start was the fuel system (fuel pump) or dirty ignitors. I did ask my regular mechanic for an opinion, and he thinks it might indeed be the fuel pump -- perhaps a clogged filter.
My wife drives a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. Recently the car started idling very rough with rpm jumps back and forth from 1500 to 2500 rpm. The check engine light came on and threw a code for the IAC. I also notice a clicking sound coming from the engine and I can see sparks arching at the coil/plug wire. The arching is happening at the coil with the numbers 1 & 4.
The car is difficult to drive. It shakes and surges and isn't pleasant to drive at all. These issues started happening very recently. The car ran great up until now. We've stopped driving it for the time being until we solve the problem.
We had the car serviced a few years ago and they changed the IAC and mentioned something about a gray wire that we should watch out for.
I'm not really sure what the issue is. I don't know if it is the spark plugs, wires, or coil. Or it could be the IAC or something else. I'm comfortable working on the car myself, but I would rather not try fixing many things if it is just one thing actually wrong.
So far, the only thing I've tried is to spray some carb cleaner into the throttle body towards the IAC in hopes that it would clean it and solve my problems.
Where the IAC is located. I want to try remove and clean it, but I'm unsure of exactly where it it. I know it is somewhere on the throttle body or intake manifold, but I'm not sure exactly what I'm looking for.