Camry :: Restarted Car Three Times To Shift Out Of Park
Jun 11, 2016
Two times today I had my shifter stick in park. I hopped in the car to go get my kid and everything was fine. I got to the house to pick him up, turned off the car and went to the door and then came back, hopped in the car and turned it on. Went to shift it out of park and it would start to move to the right a little but wouldn't budge out of park. I checked to make sure everything was OK and couldn't get it out of park. I turned the car off and turned it back on and it came right out of park, no problems at all.
We stopped by Sonic to get some food, leaving the car running, and when it was time to leave the car shifted out of park no problem. Made one more stop by the grocery store, leaving him in the car with the car running like at the previous stop, this time when I got back in the car it wouldn't shift out of park again. I stopped and restarted the car about three time, like what had worked before, and finally after about the third time I got it out of park.
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I've got an 04 Camry that will start with no problems but there is no power to the gauges, radio, heat/ac controls, windows and I have to use the override to shift from park. There's are remote start in the car and if you use that to start the car everything works perfectly fine, but as soon as you turn the key and step on the break to shut down the remote starter the electronics stop working.
I've replaced the 120 alt fuse before i figured out the remote start working.
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I am planning to buy this 2012 Camry LE (38k), automatic, I am on the test run and realized that the car's shifting from park to reverse is harder than shifting from reverse to drive. What I mean is, it is really hard to move the selector from Park to Reverse.
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My 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6. 37,500 miles. Occasionally when I'm parked shifting down to reverse it's so tight/put effort to shift & it literally thumps the entire car.. I heard to put the E-BRAKE/PARKING BRAKE down BEFORE shifting it to park & it worked but occasionally even with the E-BRAKE/PARKING BRAKE it still jerks the entire car going from PARK to REVERSE.
Also going from REVERSE to NEUTRAL it gives off a little vibration underneath me ALL THE TIME going from REVERSE to NEUTRAL.. I know these are so many questions that are probably a no-brainer answer but I'm looking to see if any one here had/has or heard of a similar or exact problem. Is the trans fluid low or dirty? I saw the CARFAX I didn't see the services he's done it's only been 1 owner on this car I'm the second. Previous owner leased it brand new.
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The wife was driving the 07 XLE 4 cylinder the other morning. Temperature was around 2 F. She started the car. It started right up. Drove for around 5 minutes and shut the car off and went in to a store for 5 minutes. When she came back out and restarted the car an "E" appeared in the XLE's multifunction display and the low tire pressure light was also on. The car would not shift out of Park. The wife called me. I told her to shut it off and try restarting it. Same thing.
I then told her to shut it off and take the key out of the ignition and then try reinserting it and restarting it. That worked; it eliminated both codes and the car was able to be shifted normally out of Park. Since I still have about 10 months coverage left on my Platinum Extended Warranty the wife and I took the car over to the dealer. When I had my wife explain what happened to the dealer's service writer he just said I have never even heard of the "E" symbol. The tech said he never heard of it either. They did check out the car's shift/interlock system including the brake light switch, but could find nothing wrong.
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My Daughter owns a 2000 Camry. It has a very annoying habit of not starting when it is warm (think driving to the gas station, turning the car off to fill it and then it doesn't start again). We have tried new solenoids, a new starter and several other tweaks but nothing seems to fix the problem. Recently she discovered if she jiggles the gear shift lever (it's an automatic) it will start. So, obviously she gear shift lever is not finding Park or Neutral so that it can be in position to start. She has experimented with this concept and it appears to be the only thing that consistently solves the starting issue. What would we have to fix in the gear shift lever, or elsewhere, to fix this problem?
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Got a limited service campaign letter for right front seat sensor problem causing the AIR BAG OFF indicator to illuminate. Apparently certain conditions can turn on the Air Bag Off indicator. Question is, will the indicator turn off when the engine is turned off and restarted? Or once it is tripped it stays on whenever the ignition is on?
This car is turning into a pain, having to take it to the dealer for too many problems. Tempted to do nothing about this latest campaign, unless the light stays on.
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1992 Buick Park Avenue, Base. For awhile now I've had trouble shifting into park from other gears. Sometimes, it'll flow right into park without trouble. Other times, I have to work it, to kind of baby it in. However, it simply will not shift into park from reverse. Period. If I'm in reverse and want to park, I have to go into drive, neutral, etc, and then try to move it into park.
A mechanic I know looked at the neutral safety switch and thought it could be causing the problem. We figured it wasn't in the steering column or the cable to the switch because if we disconnect the cable, you can slide that lever all day long. So I purchased a new neutral safety switch and had him install it, but the same problem is there. Actually, let me clarify: while it was in his garage, with the old switch, it would no longer go into park at all, regardless (kind of decided to just stop altogether). At least with the new switch we can baby it into park, but it is basically back to where it was last week. He mentioned it might be deeper in the transmission, but that's out of his league.
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Today, without explanation the shift indicator on the dash on my 98 Passat Wagon highlights all gears. When you shift to any gear. . . . the display does not change. Further, shifting is rough from 'park.'
I noticed this problem after looking at all the fuses to see why the radio was not powering up. I have checked fuses. . . . and unplugged the battery and plugged it back in.
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2001 Park Avenue has an issue that manifests itself every now and then. When I try to start engine nothing happens. Sometimes after turning key 3, 4 or 5 times it will start normally. I'm a little worried that one day it isn't going to start.... Using the original key, so I don't think that it's a problem with that. Have read that a faulty BCM can be responsible for a no-start condition, but that wouldn't be an intermittent occurrence would it?
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My excursion has come out of park a few times. Not good at the boat ramp.....
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I have had the LF strut mount fail three times in the last three months. The strut has pushed through the upper mount. The guy a bought the car from said he had the struts replaced about a year ago. Could it be a bad strut?
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When putting vehicle into park, every so often it will barely enage or not at all. Can hear a clanking noise when rolling back or forward. Trans position sensor?
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The car seems to start accelerating on it own. Say cruise control is set you notice acceleration for no reason. Now cruise control does not work and acceleration at times still happens. It's not like you are flooring it just keeps going faster slowly. Don't know if this could be related I did replace the fuel pump recently and the crankshaft position sensor. I was looking to see if there is a re learn procedure for the crank sensor. I have replaced them in the past and don't remember having to do a relearn.
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My Chevy Venture 2003 approx 120 thousand miles is idling high at times. It will drive fast. I can feel it speeding up even when I am not pushing on the gas. When I put the car in reverse it flys backward (I have to keep my foot on the break to back up at a safe speed) and then when I put the car in park the engine is VERY loud. Again, this does not happen all the time. Usually when I drive it over ten miles. I thought it might have something to do with the AC, but I played around with that (driving with and without the AC) and that did not factor in it.
I took it to my own personal mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong with it. I then took it to a dealership and they said they couldn't find anything wrong with after doing their hundred dollars worth of diagnostics and said they needed it to actually be doing it..what they called a hard fail...for them to know what was going on. . They drove the car for quite some time and nothing happened. I drove it all this pass weekend and nothing happened. It might go a week or so without doing it. Thenn it does it. Usually I can turn the car off and restart it and it will be back to normal. The check engine light is NOT on. Any clue as to what might be going on?
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2004 Explorer 4WD XLT 4.0 6cyl - Mileage is 117,000 - Check Engine Light came on - Pulled the code of PO193. Had the Fuel Pressure Sensor changed, Plugs and wires and check engine light is still on after being re-set several times? Car is stalling at times when going from park to drive - It seems to idle ok in park but, when in drive at a red light, the tac will bounce a little and it seems like it's not getting enough fuel and will stall out at anytime. Is there a fuel filer that can be changed? Should I have the fuel injection checked and cleaned along with a fuel filter. Seems to be getting poor gas mileage.
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It clunks real bad at random times. Whether I have had the e-brake on or not (sometimes even with it on, so I have not put any load on the locking mechanism in the tranny).
Its a 2014... Does not matter if its inclined ground or flat.
My 08 F350 V10 it replaces never once clunked.
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I picked up a Mk7 Golf S a few weeks back with 5MT. I'm coming from driving 3 different B5.5 Passats over the last seven years (two 1.8T, one V6, all three manual). The first thing I noticed, and enjoyed, with the Mk7 is a much improved throttle response. No more stepping on the gas and waiting 1+ seconds for the tach to rev up on downshifts. However, after seven years of Passat driving I had grown accustomed to the consistent (albeit somewhat slow) shift times. All that said, downshifting on the Mk7 5MT feels a lot nicer than it ever did in a Passat.
My issue with the Mk7 is that there seems to be a wide degree of inconsistency with shift times. Sometimes the tach just hangs for a 1.25+ seconds when I shift to neutral while waiting for the RPMs to drop for the next (higher) gear. Other times the tach drops immediately. I've read that the gear ratios are somewhat steep for the 5MT, so I've been trying to adjust my expectations and foot movements accordingly. Additionally, I have been paying closer attention to when I get my foot off the throttle in preparation for a shift. However, the inconsistency is still there no matter where I shift in the RPM range. Does the flywheel in the 5MT weigh 30lbs? Is this purely user error, a transmission issue, or am I just crazy for expecting the tach to drop when I shift into neutral? Just trying to get a read on whether or not I am alone here.
Lastly, would a torque arm insert provide any potential improvement to shifter feel and the reduce the inconsistent shift times I am experiencing? I am not so keen on adding vibration to the cabin as the car is dead silent on the highway at 75mph, but if there would be a significant improvement in 1st/2nd/3rd gear shifts for city driving I might be willing to bite.
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72 Ford F250 with big block 460. after three years my truck is ready to run as soon as i get my new fuel pump in today. was hooking up shift linkage and noticed the shift lever will only click back two times and then goes all the way forward. I put a shift kit in the c6 and it was beautiful condition inside cant figure out why it would only shift to two places.
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So I drove my phaeton home today and when I pressed the button on the gear leaver and moved it to shift into park it would not move past neutral and sometimes reverse. The button on the gear lever got stuck in and cannot be moved out of the pressed position... because of this I removed the shifter, and the wooden panel. The plastic piece at the top of the gear shifter has broke off and I cannot figure out how to get into park and the car will not let my key go...
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So I am hoping this is an easy fix and I'm just missing something. I have a 2012 VW Passat, automatic transmission. My boyfriend, who knows nothing about VW's decided he was going to 'take care' of my 12v's which don't work, they never have since I bought the car at the end of Nov 2014. I found a penny in one of them, probably someone used that area for their change and it dropped in. Regardless they have never worked. I'm actually taking it in for an oil change the end of the week and planned on having the dealer fix it then since I have a warranty still.
I tried a while back, bought some new fuses, but could never find a definite fuse map for my car and wasn't so worried about it that I wanted to risk causing more problems. Anyway, he decided to check my fuses by pulling every one . Now my car won't shift out of park and the dashboard has the ESC light and the engine MIL light are both on and solid. The tire pressure monitoring system Malfunction light is blinking. Just fyi....I did do a 'soft' restart by unhooking the battery, and checked that the brake lights are working. Not sure that these things are even relevant but I was reading a few things and this is as far as I've got.
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