I am bringing in my V6 2005 Camry XLE in for a pulley recall and have reached 90,000 miles. The dealer told me I should also have the timing belt, water pump and engine seals replaced since they are all under the same engine side cover. I am considering the timing belt, but do I need to replace the oil seals and water pump?
View 4 Replies2005 Camry XLE with 4 cylinder. Is it a good idea to change engine oil after replacing the water pump? Another words, is there a chance of getting antifreeze or debris in the engine oil when changing the pump or are the 2 separate in the 4 cyl. engine?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 ford Excursion 6.0 with an EGR delete, bulletproofed beauty. I bought it about 8months ago and It ran great. I soon bought a 270amp DCpower alternator for it after the batteries died and then replaced the batteries. I eventually developed a no start when hot issue and decided to tear into it my self with everything I've learned on FTE! I love this site and most of you are like legends to me.... so I thought, how hard could this be?
So I bought that fancy icp pressure adapter for testing the pressure from the passenger side valve cover then found one that test pressure at the IPR port. So I went and bought that too 6 0L Powerstroke Specialist's Tool Kit Air Test Tool Ball Tube IPR Sockets | eBay and it lead me to multiple leaks on both sides of the oil rail.
I also bought the CTS2 insight and started monitoring things and realized I had more problems than I thought. I'm still learning how/what to look for and monitor. Anyhow, My EOT and ECT would sometimes be 30-40 Deg. apart. So knew I'd have to replace the oil cooler.
So here I am, I bought ALL ford OEM parts which were -- Oil cooler/standpipes/dummy plugs/ STC update/updated oil drain tubes/Coolant filter/bluespring kit/bango bolts/new degas bottle cap.
I put EVERYTHING in and was careful as can be. I located my leaks and it turned out to be the injector seals on #1 #2 and #5 injectors. The one on the top of the inside of the injectors. So then I bought all new ALIANT injector seal kits (all 8) might as well do them all while I'm in there. And put it back together. Still friggin leaked at injector 1 and 2. So I polished all the nipple cups and bought 8 new ALIANT seals for cups on the rail...STILL LEAKED (swear word).
After putting everything back together and taking it apart 6-7 times...I tried sticking the air directly into the injectors (#1,#2) using a rubber nipple and the injector spill ports were pissing out air. The rest of the injectors ports didn't leak at all except for #3 which was barely a leak.
So after some reading about this problem, I read that this "spill port" leak was normal and could be that the spools were probably closed so it was nothing to worry about. Or that's what I understood.
I put everything back together one more time and got ready for some "long cranking". I should mention I filled the oil valley from the filter housing (about a half a gallon) and cranked for 20sec...Waited 2 mins...cranked 20 sec...waited 2 mins.......continuously untill batteries went dead...then I recharged them and repeated...and recharged them and repeated...I knew It would take a long time but holy cow.
I used the CTS2 to watch my icp volts and it was 0.2 KOEO and while cranking. It didnt change. So I unplugged it. Now I have 1400psi. I tried using my other F350 ICP sensor and same thing. So Its not the sensor. Maybe the harness? So I unplugged the fcim and replugged it back in. Still wont start. I'm at my wits end with this and my wife is hating me for "trying to save money" and blocking the driveway for the last 9 days...
I replaced a timing belt and related parts on a v 6 atq motor and three weeks later there's a pretty good oil leak, where its from or if oil leak can be related to timing belt replacement... leak seems to be in same area as crank pulley but not sure...
View 2 RepliesThe gist is that my 2006 Prius would not start, even with an attempted jump, and now the dealer (Keany Mesa Toyota in San Diego) says the total cost of repair will be $2400 for a new junction box relay and water pump ($800/$2400). I am stunned at the cost and am questioning the need for both jbr and wp -- but apparently, wp is leaking. About a year ago, the expensive battery was replaced, luckily under warranty , so no cost. Don't know if jbr, wp and battery failures are related, typical repairs or we just have a lemon or getting ripped off. is the water pump recall from years ago relevant here? Should we get a competing bid from a non-dealer/Prius expert (is there one in SD, a search of Prius chat found 1 recommendation but it was rather weak), or just get the damn work done and have a stiff drink to deal with it, or maybe it is time to get a new car - Prius or other (what's the chance the dealer give us a good trade-in deal?)
View 17 RepliesSo I have a 2002 GTI VR6 with the 24v BDF Engine. I have been having a problem with my belt squealing. It started after I replaced my water pump and crack pipe. While I was at it I replaced the belt tensioner and belt with a kit from ECS than had an aftermarket tensioner and a Conti drive belt(has 6 ribs). When starting the car up for the first time after doing the water pump I noticed the belt was squealing. It would only squeal when I gave it some good throttle.
After a few minutes it stopped squealing so I figured it was some coolant or something on the belt. Well its been a few weeks and it continues to squeal when I give it throttle, but only if the ac is on and it will only do it for a few minutes. After a few minutes of the car running or driving down the road it doesn't squeal anymore. I did make a long drive in the rain very shortly after replacing the belt and it was a really heavy rain storm. There was a lot of water on the road and my belt was squealing pretty much the whole drive if I had the ac on. I had to alternate ac on and off so I could keep the windows defogged.
After that experience I put on a set of engine splash guards from ECS. (note these guards were the ECS branded ones and were a terrible fit. Holes didn't line up with studs on bottom of frame and ended up taking the middle belly pan section out as it would hang down way too low even with the side covers connected to it.) That seemed to keep it from squealing while driving in the rain but it still squeals after first starting the cold engine with ac on.
I bought an '04 Powerstroke from a dealer in Dallas. Problems started to crop up immediately, so I replaced the thermostat. This seemed to handle my cooling issues for a couple days, until when preparing to drive to Austin, I noticed coolant pouring from what appeared to be the location of the water pump. I turned around and drove the two blocks back home, and replaced the water pump. However, when i went to restart the truck, I got only a partial turn of the crank. I let off immediately and waited a couple seconds, then tried again; same result.
I haven't had the glow plugs out yet to see what type of fluid is causing the lock. I was so pissed last night that I just went and took a nap, but I intend to check it out today after work. If it's fuel, excellent. I'll replace an injector and be done with it. If it's coolant, however, what are my most likely culprits? The EGR and oil coolers are stock, so maybe them. I would consider head gaskets, but that seems a little unlikely; while it was still running, there was no smoking, no notable pressurizing of the coolant system, etc. I am as of yet too unfamiliar with the underpinnings of the 6.0 to come up with any other possibilities, but I'm more than capable of dealing with them if you guys can suggest anything.
I have a 1990 legacy and just replaced the water pump gasket and now it is leaking out of an upper bolt head on the pump and how to cure this....
View 1 RepliesI got a 97 aerostar from my parents. Front Shocks are done for (seals leaking). Any good brands? Does one just unbolt and replace shocks or do they have the mcpherson strut assemblies. It only has 48,000 miles on it. No rust and pretty good condition overall.
View 10 RepliesI have some serious work that needs to be done on my car. The catalytic converter needs replacing, and the valve cover gasket and cam adjuster seals need to be replaced. This work falls under their respective warranties. However, I'm wondering if I should have the water pump and timing belt done at the same time as I have 77000+ miles on my car. Is there anything else that would be good to do at the same time as this work. I would be going back to the VW service center for these repairs. Would it save me any money to do this all together?
View 4 RepliesToday afternoon I started the Touareg and got a noise, check the hook and there was a lot of antifreeze on the front of the engine and the belt splatter all over the front of the engine.
Could not see where the leak was coming from, re started the engine there was a lot of antifreeze.
All temp where ok and oil showed no water on it.
Drove to dealer only a few miles away and when showed the engine the engine was dry just the splatter. Left it there for them to check tomorrow.
Could the water pump go bad, never replaced or noise? Have 110,000 miles on the car and just replaced belt a month ago.
I am hoping is not a leak on the head.
My aux water pump was acting up and started leaking a year or two ago. I replaced it and it seemed to be doing fine. Recently it has started buzzing very loudly right when I turn the car off and keeps buzzing loudly for a few minutes (5-10) after the car is shut down. I know that is when it is supposed to be running, but why would it be so loud? Is it being over-heated or something?
View 1 RepliesMy 2005 Prius sounds louder to me than normal. The car has 117,000 miles on it and is in great condition. Anyways I can hear, maybe, on the gas engine what sounds like a bad water pump or tension pulley, not sure though? I checked the water pump area and there is no visible signs of a leak or dried pink coolant. If the water pump is indeed bad what can I expect at the Toyota dealership cost wise?
View 18 RepliesI have a 08 camry 4 cyl LE (51,000 Miles). I went to oil change last week but dealer told me that water pump is seeping and recommend to replace.
I talked to local mechanic about this, he told me that 08 camry comes with bad water pump parts. My sister drive 08 tc her water pump was also leak, she replaced under powertrain warranty last year. But my warranty was over last year by age.
my 2007 Camry LE I4 and I got an oil change at the dealer today. He tried to tell me my water pump was leaking and needed replacement.
Offered me a deal of "%50 off the price for $500" which I think is ridiculous. Took it to a family friend that is a mechanic and he said $266 to replace the whole thing.
Dealer said they would do a price match but I'm not sure what to do.
They said it would make it to Tennessee and back because it's in its infant stage.
My question is, when I refilled my low antifreeze, I accidentally overfilled a lot past the line. Would this have anything to do with this issue?
Just want to make sure I'm naming the part correctly. It's a pump that between the radiator and the block. It stays on after the car is turned off. This is on a 2005 GLI 5 speed tip.
Lately, its not turning on. If it does, it's just for a brief moment and then turns off. After some searching, I've read post of other asking about by-passing it. Would that be a benefit? What's gained from that? I understand the pump is on while the engine is running, does it provide additional cooling? I'm planning on checking it out this weekend and wondering if it could be rebuilt? Could you guys indicate which vendor on the web has the best price?
I have a 2007 Camry with V6, automatic. My wife drives it daily and she said that a light came on saying water temp and it started to run hot. When I looked at it I could not see fluid anywhere and the reservoir along with the radiator was very low, almost a gallon of fluid to fill it up. I took the shroud from over the top of the radiator and along the top of the radiator and where it meets the fins the pink dried fluid was along it. I could also see where it looks like it's getting onto the electric fan. At first I thought the water pump was going (147K) but now I think it might be the radiator is bad....
View 8 RepliesI was hearing some sounds from my engine and opened up the timing covers to determine where the sound was coming from. It sounds exactly like the Sienna with the same 3MZ engine in this video: YouTube ....
While I didn't find the source of the noise, I did find that my water-pump is leaking. My question is, is this water-pump leaking bad enough to be replaced? I do not notice any coolant loss and never had the need to top up.
It appears from this last photo that the pump is leaking through its pulley shaft and not at the interface with the engine:
The timing belt and water-pump were changed 3 years ago with the Gates timing belt kit from RockAuto. The pump at the time didn't look that great quality in its casting compared to an Aisin pump.
I could not feel any play or hear any abnormal sounds from the pump while it was running with the timing covers off.
This is on my 2005 Lexus ES330 with the 3MZ-FE 3.3L V6 engine, same motor as the Gen 5 Camry SE V6.
I had the timing belt and water pump replaced on my wife's 2001 Toyota Solara about 2.5 years/30,000 miles ago.
Recently I have been told by a different mechanic, other than the one who performed the original timing belt/water pump service. That water pump looked as if it had been "taken apart and glued back together". Also the same mechanic told me that the reason for my continuing oil leak from the valve cover was that it was incorrectly changed and the wrong "putty" was used when the valve cover gasket was changed. This was the third time V.C. began leaking since it was changed a year ago at said timing belt mechanic and reason for the visit to a new mechanic. So my problem is who or what to believe. I have a 30,000 mile old water pump making lots of noise and leaking a good amount of coolant. I tried to contact the owner of the original service shop but not yet spoken to him directly about my problem. Prior to this I had nothing but good experiences with this shop in regards to my 91 Nissan pickup truck. But as soon as I take my wife's car in I have had nothing but problems.
Four cylinder, 2004 Camry (2AZ-Fe), Auto with 98,000 miles.
I had to replace my water pump after driving with newly replaced Toyota Red antifreeze from the 8 year old Pink. I drove only two weeks and 1000 miles on it.
I believe that was just a coincidence. Some Camry's water pumps do not last even that long. Even if the coolant was not compatible with Toyota specification, it still could not destroy the pump seals in two weeks.
1) It's a very slow leak.
2) I am under Power Train Warranty for another year (Certified Pre-Owned).
3) My friend is a mechanic who will fix it for free as long as I buy the Water Pump.
But I worry Toyota is going to give me a hard time and say it's something else not covered by warranty or say it's not you water pump but the radiator, which shows no sign of leakage and is not covered by warranty.
My friend showed me the bolts that were corroded white on the pump with a mirror and flash light. I buy the water pump and he installs it for free or go to a Toyo dealer where you don't know what to expect?
2006 Camry LE 4 Cylinder, 48,000 miles---I know Toyota makes junk Water Pumps.