Camry :: Replace Coolant In 2004 XLE V6 1mz-fe Engine?
Apr 15, 2012
I've been researching how to replace the coolant in my 2004 Camry XLE V6 1mz-fe engine with 55k miles but I need a little more information. It uses the super long life pink coolant. It says service at 100k or 10 years but I feel it is time to replace and or flush the system. I wanted to used distilled water to flush the system but I guess this won't work because the pink stuff is premixed. I would like to drain the entire cooling system and fill again with fresh toyota pink so I can leave it alone for another 5 years.
So my question is, what is the best method to service my cooling system considering I am going to use the same toyota pink coolant. If the proper way is only a drain and flush, I've heard there are two drains on the block in addition to the radiator drain on the v6 1mz-fe. Where are these block drains on the 1mz-fe and will this drain the entire cooling system?
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I took my relatively well maintained '98 Camry to Texaco Xpress Lube and they changed my oil and air filter. I then embarked on a 400mile trip to Miami. The next morning when I went to start the car, I fogged the entire neighborhood with a thick low-lying white vapor/smoke. It was ridiculous. So, I opened the hood and noticed my coolant reservoir was nearly empty and my oil dipstick was bone dry. Thinking this was awfully strange, I went to inspect the air filter and noticed that they installed a filter that was short by about 1.5" in one dimension and I could see sand, leaves, and twigs in the bottom of the air box. The shop basically put a square filter in a rectangular air box. After some preliminary research, I've concluded that my engine is now completely ruined because of this. From what I gather, the sand in the airbox enterred the combustion chamber and proceeded to grind the internal components to smithereens. Is this a reasonable conclusion considering my engine has never had these problems before. Also, how would I even start to get some rectification?
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Can I buy a replacement leather cover for the driver seat in my '04 LE Limited Ed.?
There is a tear in the outer side panel, right by the seam where it meets the back seating panel. I know there are companies that make leather interior kits where you pull off the fabric seat upholstery and pull on the leather, and that these kits are popular with new car dealers.
Where I can find an OEM replacement to match the rest of my interior, which is still in good shape? Would it make better sense to take the leather off of the setback and have a seamstress/upholstery shop set in a new side panel? Or, would I be best off to just find a complete seat that matches and just bolt it in?
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When the water pump goes bad do you have to remove the engine to replace it?
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I found the filter at O'Reilly's but looking for step-by-step instructions.
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In the last 50 starts it has happened twice: When I try to start the truck, all dash lights and power come on but there is no sound or cranking from the engine. If I cycle the key back and forth a half a dozen times it will then crank and start. Next time I will try and listen to hear if the solenoid is clicking.
I've read posts about it being the anti-theft, ignition switch, stater relay, ppm relay, etc....
I could replace the relays to rule them out, but my gut is telling me that's not it? Would there be a code from something like this?
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Ave an 02 Camry 4 Cly
Noticed small puddle of coolant under the car - then noticed overflow empty and radiator a little low on fluid. Noted some coolant below the thermostat.
After filling back to proper levels, ran engine for a while with no apparent leaking. Took a couple of short trips and inspected after each trip and no leaking noticed.
Checked several hours later and noted coolant below thermostat housing and on ground. After a couple more trip noted coolant level dropping again.
What would cause fluid to leak after engine shut down? Could be coming from another location, but my attention is on the thermostat at present.
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I have an engine code of P0128 (low coolant temp etc.) I now think it's because I no longer have an Engine Splash Shield under my engine and the extra air is cooling the engine. I took it off after backing into a snow bank like an idiot. At first I thought it might be that I poured green coolant into the pink coolant because I lost coolant cleaning the throttle body (120,000miles). This mixture supposedly causes clumping and clogs in the system etc. Since then I flushed the coolant system and replaced it with yellow coolant which popular mechanics said was OK. So I'm left with the question of do i change it again to the pink coolant (~$50 compared to ~$15 for yellow coolant, thats why i got the yellow) or do i get an engine splash guard? Or Both?
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I need to replace my coolant temp sensor, but can seem for find where it goes. Bentley says it's on the rear coolant line, but that eludes me as well.
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I have a B5.5 with the 2.8. I'm changing the coolant temperature sensor, but cannot get the thing out of the harness. With as tight as the working area is, I really don't want to screw-up the harness. How to get this out? I have the sensor out of the pipe the crosses between the heads and only need to remove it from the harness.
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Here is the thing, this did not start until after I got a coolant flush, and went to get some gas. I was thinking dirty fuel injectors, so I put the Lucas Fuel Injector cleaner in with the next full tank of gas, and it didn't do anything.
There is a ticking sound, and the car sounds like a freight train chugging. The car still runs and still has great performance than ever before (due to the new plugs)
Here is what I have done:
Ran motor flush
Changed oil + Lucas Oil Additive
Changed all 4 Spark Plugs (replaced crappy Autolite with NGK Platinum)
Changed Power Steering Fluid (flushed)
Changed Coolant (flushed)
Cleaned the throttle body and intake
Drained through and filled up gas again + Lucas Fuel Stuff
You can't really hear it from inside the car, and it only seems to be happening after the car has been warmed up. It does not happen during a cold start at all (in the mornings).
The ticking sound stopped for a bit when I ran the motor flush, and changed the oil. Now the sound is still there, but it is A LOT less annoying than before. The car also has A LOT better performance with the new plugs, I seem to be able to take off a lot better at lights.
Here is what I still need to do:
Change the engine air filter.
Double check the throttle body and intake.
It is a 2004 Camry with 182,000 Miles. The ticking didn't start until after it came back from the shop, which has me suspicious. Shop claims nothing is wrong, which is a load of BS.
What I am thinking:
Stuck valve
Lifters
STILL dirty intake (shop could have done nothing and charged me for it)
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So I have a 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6. Back in december I got into a front end accident, had the front repaired, (they did remove the coolant container and refilled it etch) Got my car back on December 22, coolant was full. A few days ago, checked again and i noticed the white coolant container was empty (there were some pink at a corner, i guess because the hose doesn't reach that low), i checked the metal cap, it was not "completely" empty just had a very very low layer of pink coolant. (i would say just some coolant at the surface)
I do recall a sweet burning smell maybe a month or 2 ago, but my engine light did not ever come on. When i refilled it, (my dad recommended to refill just half) I did that, a day later, i checked the levels again, it was empty again. so i refilled it to half again. i drove this morning for about 10 mins, its still at the same level (maybe i didn't drive it long enough?)
I'm freaking out whether i have been driving the car without coolant for that long, and whether there were any engine damage done (even though the engine light didn't come on) I have driven the car alittle over 5k since i got the car back.
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My radiator gave way on the highway, and by the time I noticed it the temp had maxed out the gauge and all the coolent was gone. So, I only have 90k on my '94 Camry and I'm debating whether to tackle repairs and perhaps a rebuild if necessary. What's the likelihood that there's damage to the rings, bore, crank, valves, etc due to the overheat? How much repair am I potentially looking at and what can I check without a tear-down? I'd like to get it running again since I just invested in new struts, brake calipers and MS and tires (not to mention that it has been pretty-much worry-free until now), but I want to know whether it's even worth my while.
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I have a 2011 SE I4 with roughly 12k on it. Here's my problem: The past few days, I've been smelling something sweet coming out of my AC. I thought nothing much of it until today, when I noticed that my coolant/antifreeze reservoir level was slightly below the low "L" point with the engine cold. I am not sure if this means that I have a leak or something more serious? Is there something that I can do to try and figure out what the hell is wrong? My car is still under warranty, is this something that the dealership should look into? Will there be a cost for that?
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I have the 2.4l engine and the car has 177K on it. Bought it from a friend at 60K and never had a problem with it. I started getting the coolant puddle from the rear of the engine. We took the intake manifold off and saw that the head was leaking in the rear. Real small drop forming and then falling. No codes at the time either. Seems this car has problems with the Engine bolts and was wondering how many people out there had a blown head gasket and there was no bolt issue?
Also I know this is not the right thing to do but use Engine Block Sealant? This is the kind that you drain your antifreeze,flush twice and then run this stuff in it for little while and then replace with antifreeze.
I am upside down on the car because I put 50K a year on so don't think I will get anything for trade. I am hoping my brother in law and I can fix it but am wondering what the odds are there is a problem with the bolts.
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I just bought a used 98 Acura 3.0CL. I've noticed that when the heat is cranked, it doesn't blow hot at all. I did some quick research and came up with two answers thus far; check the antifreeze coolant and that I may need to replace the heater control valve. Am I "warm" on the area?
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Changed inverter coolant last weekend. Was a snap. Used bleed screw with vinyl tube back into fill tank to bleed off any excess air. Added just as much as I removed. No issues. Took about 15 minutes total. Engine coolant not going so smoothly. I was only able to get 2.9 qts out. Reservoir is still full. Didn't drain that. Started by putting car in inspection mode. Let engine run until it was 180 degrees (using scan tool to read coolant temp). While engine running, turned on heat to get coolant flowing through heater core.
Turned car off. Opened drain plug behind engine. Got about 2 qts out of that. When that was done, radiator level had dropped too. Next, opened up yellow drain plug on back of radiator on drivers side. Got about 2.9 qts out of that.
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So I was going to change the oil today and noticed that there was coolant that leaked all over the engine. I don't know where it came but I washed it off (should have snapped a pic!), so today I will try to drive around a bit and pop the hood again to see where it is coming from.
I'm guessing it leaked from one of the hoses or something. I recently got everything changed (timing belt, water pump, new radiator) about 3k miles ago or so.
I took her offroading earlier in the week two days in a row as well and went through some rough terrain in 90+ degree heat.
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I'm a little bit low on coolant and I was searching around for it on the Internet and all I need to do is add a tiny bit but I'm not sure which one to go with ? And when I mean a tiny bit I mean it's right under the bottom Fill Line.
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I seem to be leaking coolant, its not coming from the radiator, and all my hoses seem to be okay as well. I removed the airbox, the leak is on the drivers side by the engine. Where this leaking might be coming from?
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Doing the 48,000 km service yesterday, and when checking everything noticed the engine coolant overflow bottle was almost empty. MAJOR PROBLEM!
There is no sign of leaking, so I presume it evaporated or it was never filled to the full mark from the factory. Man, that level is hard to check. It's dark down there! I may mark the passenger side end of the overflow bottle. Much easier to see the level there.
Coolant loss, presumably from evaporation? This was after 3 years of operation/48,000 km or 30,000 mi.
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