Camry :: Rear Defroster Not Working / Orange LED Lights Up
Nov 10, 2012
so I have a 2010 Camry and I'm 99% certain the rear defroster doesn't work. I came from a 2000 Camry where, upon pressing the rear defrost button, the rear window would clear up within like 5 minutes (literally-- that thing was fast), but my 2010 Camry doesn't do that.
I drove for about 15 minutes last night and saw no change whatsoever. The orange LED lights up when I press the button (and stays lit) for the rear defroster, but I'm not seeing any results.
Is there a fuse I should check? the orange LED comes on and stays on when I press that button, but I'm pretty sure nothing's happening. This is the only problem thing I've ever noticed that's wrong with my car.
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I have a couple of things going on with my 2014 Toyota Camry. My car was in a recent rear end collision and I noticed the other day that my rear window defroster is no longer working. I waited 15 to 20 minutes and still nothing. The side mirror defrosters work fine. One button turns on both my rear and side mirror defrosters. The extent of the rear damage did not go past the trunk lid. They did replace the lid, but I'm not sure why that would make a difference. The rear window was not replaced. There was also some quarter panel damage underneath that required welding. It was working fine before the body work and now it's not working. Would could be the likely cause? I'd rather fix it myself if it's quick, rather than spending time taking it back tot he body shop.
The other problem...I was on a road that had a drop off on my passenger side. The lane slightly narrowed for some odd reason for just for a few feet. The front right side tire went off road and the front of my car hit the pavement pretty hard. I couldn't see any damage underneath, but of course that doesn't mean there isn't any. When I was driving to work this morning I could hear a humming noise that only got louder as I drove faster. It wasn't a continuous hum. You could hear a break in between hums but the breaks were more frequent the faster I drove. I'm not too sure what that is either? A wheel bearing?
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Got our 2012 package 5 lesss than a month ago, so we haven't had much opportunity to use the rear defroster. The two times I have used it I noticed that it works well on the upper rear window, but the glass below the rear spoiler doesn't seem to be clearing. The red/orange "wires" are visible in the glass, but don't appear to do anything. Wasn't planning to head back to the dealer until first service since we haven't had any other problems, but this could be annoying with the winter weather.
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For the second time in the last 24 months, my rear defroster doesn't seem to be working. The first time I took it into the dealer and under warranty, they had to replace the entire rear window. The side view mirror defrosters still worked and they still work now. It just seems that the rear isn't working again and this time my warranty has run out.
Should I take it back to the dealer and hope they honor their work? My 3yr/36k expired 4 months ago. How could I even test that it is working? I've only had to use it 2 or 3x since last Feb. and that's when I noticed it doesn't seem to be working. I only had to use it for short trips so the main defroster in the cab eventually defrosted the rear window. The weather is warmer so now I won't have as many chances to have it fogged up.
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i have prius 2004 yesterday the rear defroster stopped and not working while the key on steering wheel and the yallow light indicator works very well and mirror defroster also working well, this case it become yesterday but before that it was working as usual.
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I am having problems with with the rear defroster and the a/c in my '98 Buick Lesabre, they went out at the same time, and I checked the fuses in the fuse box, and the meter says they are all good, the fan motor isn't running either, and I think that they are all tied together.
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Just stopped working. The fans of course blow fine and the air vent changes from top to bottom and the like. I checked the fuses and looks OK. I measured the voltages on the pressure switch and they read +5.0VDC and +4.7VDC to ground. The pressure switch itself measures 10.9K Ohms and 6.2 KOhms to ground from the two left pins. Is that the Ohms for LOW R134 ? I will try measuring with a manifold later but thought this might ring a bell. Is this style switch able to be JUMPED ? To see if it is only low pressure ? The ones I am used to have only 2 pins and this has three. I read +2.6VDC on the compressor clutch.
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A couple of days ago I noticed that one of the elements in the upper rear window defogger/defroster isn't working. It's the fifth one from the bottom I believe. All the other elements on the top and bottom seem to be working correctly. Is there a way to correct this without taking it to the dealer?
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2011 F350 with the rear window defroster not working on the slider window, just the glass that slides.
I had them look at when it was in for other warranty work and the dealership says it is not covered by the ESP. I looked up the ESP and it states that it covers heated back glass(electrical only). The dealership says it is considered glass and it isn't covered. If it was the outer sides of the back window it wouldn't bother me, but it is the center piece.
I had it looked at a while back when the truck was in for different warranty work and they supposedly fixed it, it was never fixed but I just thought I would get it fixed next time I was in there instead of just going in for that. Last time I was there I was under the 60K mile warranty and it is covered under that, but not the ESP supposedly. Bad dealership or just live with it?
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As I understand the radio is on the rear window of the car and every time i listen to the radio and turn on the rear defroster I get static and I can barely hear the radio. Is it possible to buy a different antenna and mount it somewhere else instead of using the one on the window?
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First time I'm having an issue with my Toyota Camry 2009 model.
See video: [URL] .....
I'm wondering if this is a starter issue because the battery seems to be fine (can turn on radio, lights are working). The strange thing i noticed was that the light on the rear windshield defroster was blinking. I haven't turned that on in months.
Also, is this covered under warranty ? I bought the extended warranty when i purchased the vehicle in 2008. If i'm not mistaken I'm still covered under it. Is there a place (online) where i could check my extended warranty period ?
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The following have stopped working (at the same time if I remember correctly): power door locks, power mirrors, power trunk release and rear defroster. We are also getting a tire pressure fault warning when the tire pressure is ok. As far as other items located on the drivers door, the power seat adjustment and power windows are still working. I checked every fuse in the interior box and the the rely ant fuses unde the hood. I exchanged the big, square, grey fuse for the rear defroster with the one for the starter and still no luck with that issue.
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This my first toyota camry and noticed rear window defroster to take a long time to defrost morning mist from rear window. At 5 mins idle i start to see the defrost lines is this normal?? In my 14 accord rear window would be completely defrosted in 5 mins.
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I had the brakes on my 2004 Prius replaced. Recently the red Brake light and the orange ABS Brake lights come on some of the time - but not all of the time. I took the car in to my local repair shop. They said it would cost $300 to diagnose the problem.
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I test drove a 04 V6 passat today and it was great, except the little orange LED lights as part of the bottom/center display in the instrument cluster were "fading" at the top and bottom. eventually they came back up and were brighter, but it wasn't anything that the headlight or interior light controls had any influence over. below is NOT an example of the problem itself, but the bright orange box is what I'm talking about.
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The rear tail lights on my truck have been out for a while now. I wasn't doing much driving at night so it wasn't much of a bother but the new job is getting me home a little later and having to drive with my hazards on is getting old fast.
My radio wasn't working either and I disconnected it a while back hoping maybe it had something to do with my lights shorting out but no luck. It remains disconnected. Just in the past few days my front running lights have went out as well.
I've tested all fuses multiple times (and replaced a couple of them) and checked and replaced bulbs. My brake lights, headlights, dash lights and hazards all work fine. I have the trailer light hook up on the rear bumper and disconnected it at the wiring harness as well hoping it was the problem but it wasn't.
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I got in my car today, put the key in, put my foot on the break, and pressed the start button, but instead of starting up, the start button turned orange, and 5 orange dash lights came on in the lower corner. I tried persistently to start it, and eventually it did try to start the engine, which worked fine. I drove around the block and then parked to see if I was going to have the problem again. This time the problem was more persistent the car never started again.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Camry that we purchased 14 months ago. When purchased it had bad brakes so the dealer replaced the rotors and calipers at their expense. A month ago I took the car in for a routine oil change and was notified that my rear calipers were stuck open and that my rear brakes were not working and rusted. The rotors look hardly worn, the one on the passenger side has some deep grooves in it and the driver side is pitted. We feel that we had poor work done when the brakes were replaced and that the back never worked. After the brake job was done we would get some "chinging" noise in the back brakes and I had them inspected twice and they said everything was fine. But now we find out they weren't fine.
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I have a 99' Toyota Camry that has just turned over 150,000 miles. Two winters ago I noticed that the orange brake light on the dash would come on and stay on. But when the weather became warm again in the spring the dash light went off and stays off during warm weather, and then comes back on again when weather gets cold.
When the light initially came on the brakes worked fine and the pedal was nice and high and firm. I pulled the wheels and found the pads and shoes still had well over 70% of pad and shoe material remaining and the brake fluid is clean and full.
And even to this day the brakes work beautifully except for the dash brake light coming on when cold and going off when warm.
One other side note....I have NEVER used the emergency hand brake lever between the seats since I have owned the car. I have always been leary of using these hand brakes since I have had cars in the past that the brakes would seize in place and would not release when the lever was released. As a result, I never touch it. And I have never place my car in a situation where I would even need to use it.
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My windshield and side window defroster vents have not been working but every other air feature on the air system works fine. When I switch to the defroster, air just continues to come out of the front vents and not out of the defroster vent located on the top of the dash. I plan on going to dealership to have it checked out. I have looked through my hayne's book with no luck. One of my buddies said it could be a relay or something but I have not been able to find a relay specific to the defroster. Just wanted to get this sorted out because it takes longer than usual to defog/defrost my windows now without this feature working correctly.
I have a 2003 Honda Accord EX V-6 Coupe with dual climate control.
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All of the other buttons on my 05 are fine but for the last year or so the defrost buttons only work when the wheel is turned at least 90 degrees. I am guessing that there is a contact strip of some sort. How hard is it to get to the backside of these buttons?
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