Camry :: Pronounced Winning From The Accessory Area
Mar 31, 2013
Have a 2002 with the 2AZ-FE. Yesterday afternoon my wife and I were on the way to my parents for a pre-Easter gathering (she has to work on Easter (bleh)) It's about a 45 minute drive. About 20 minutes in I glance down and notice the oil warning light on. As soon as possible I pull off (about a minute I think.) As I decelerate rapidly to pull off the warning light goes off then back on. Checked the oil level - looked OK but could take some, so I put half a quart in to be safe. Started the engine and no warning light. OK, so we set off again. About 10 minutes later I see the oil warning light start to flicker (I'm keeping a close eye on the dash now.) It flickers for maybe 30 seconds to a minute then goes on solid. I pull off again. I'm about 10 minutes from our destination and there are tools there, and I cannot afford a tow or shop costs right now. I shut the car off, wait a little bit and restart. No warning light. Get back on the road and drive 10+ minutes to destination with no warning light.
All this time I heard no unusual engine knocking or tapping.
I then start reading on the Internet about possible causes. Based on that I remove the Oil Control Valve for the VVTI. It is a little dirty but not bad and the plunger moves easily. Not sure what is the proper way to clean it so I just wiped it down as best I could. There is no screen/filter on mine as it seems some Toyota engines apparently have, so that can't be the cause. Pulled the oil pressure sensor and examined. Did not look cruddy inside but went ahead and wiped it out with a paper towel. I ran into town in a borrowed vehicle to the auto parts store. Swapped out the filter in case it was plugged up and put fresh oil in the filter before installing. A new oil pressure sensor was only $12 so I got one and swapped that out to try to rule it out. With the sensor off, I had my dad hold a bottle over the hole and started the engine and a solid stream of oil shot out. Installed new sensor. Went on a test drive and no warning light. Headed home at night "walking on pins and needles" all the way. No warning light.
Oil in the engine is about 2,400 miles from last change. Checked the level this morning and it is halfway between the high and low marks on the stick.
Bought the car at 26K, it now has 188K. Always changed the oil myself with Valvoline conventional, except once with Mobil at a lube place while on a long trip. Mostly Fram Extra Guard filters, a few base purolators. Always changed the oil between 3K and 4K, let it go over 4K a couple times but not over 5K. Have not had the oil pan or valve cover off (don't really want to) so I don't know what the sludge status is. I'm afraid to desludge the engine at this age for fear of crud breaking loose and causing damage. In the last year or so the engine has started using a little oil, maybe 1/2 qt per oil change. I usually top it off halfway between oil changes. Money is really tight so I've got to keep this engine going.
Only other thing that might be relevant, yesterday morning when I started the car for an earlier trip there was a pronounced winning from the accessory area. Sounded like power steering but there was (and is) plenty of fluid. Wining very slowly decreased in volume and eventually went away. Don't think it is related, but figured I ought to mention it. Also I accelerated harder than usual on that trip to merge on a bad freeway ramp.
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2012 Golf 2.5L, 2 months old, ~6,000km
There's a pronounced rattling sound coming from the front passenger area (I think), and you can hear it when the radio is playing. I booked an appointment at the local dealership, but the appointment was just cancelled because an "interior technician" is not available on weekends. Not only that, they said I may have to leave the vehicle at the dealership overnight, and that no courtesy car would be provided. Personally, I think that's complete BS - you don't need a P.Eng to diagnose a rattle, and what dealership doesn't have a courtesy car?
So, I'm curious to know if others have experienced anything similar, and if they've had any luck correcting interior rattles. I previously had a minor clicking sound in the overhead console area (bluetooth, lights, etc.), but that was quickly fixed at a different dealership.
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I have a 2009 Tiguan 2.0t 4 motion and recently has started having a very high pitched squealing noise coming from either the accessory belt area or the timing chain. The noise is constant until you are under acceleration and then it goes away. The CEL came on but when scanned it said no codes. and now sometimes the CEL will flash and the car has been idling rough. What it may be?
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I began by locking the car w/o arming security and all seemed to be working, along with driving the car more. We just returned home from a one week vacation, the buick resting in the driveway. When I went to start the car, I got the similar "I am dead" clicks and a very pronounced thump. I put the 10amp charger on for three hours and started the car. Engine runs rough, alternator gauge on dash is up and down at idle, can't get a clear screen on the OBD for codes. My question is, could this have been an alternator going bad all along, draining the battery when sitting idle/little use and now the roughness in the engine? I can easily replace the alternator....
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I have a 2007 F150 FX-2 which i bought new. I have about 60,000 miles on it, and every 8,000-10,000 miles i develop a pronounced vibration when i apply the brakes. When i first had this problem, at about 10,000 miles on the odometer, the dealership replaced the pads and turned the rotors, but the problem resurfaced before another 5,000 miles had passed. About 10,000 miles later the problem resurfaced, the dealership said they replaced the rotors.
The problem resurfaced again at about 37,000 miles, but the dealership claimed that since I was out of warranty. Being handy, I replaced the rotors myself, but now, about 15,000 miles later, I'm experiencing this issue again. Is this just a common problem i will have to live with? I don't tow anything, and i rarely load the bed with anything. Maybe a trip to the hardware store once a quarter and i load a motorcycle into the bed two or three times a year.
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I have a 199 Ford Expedition that started shuddering several months ago. The shudder was the most pronounced when braking, but was also pretty bad when accelerating and letting off the accelerator.I took it to a Nationally recognized service center. They charged me over $1,200 to replace everything associated with my brakes, but the shudder, (although no longer so pronounced when braking), was still there.Their best guess was the “U” joints, but since they had just a little play in them, they weren't sure that that would cause so much shudder.I took it to a Ford dealer. They had it for 3 days, and charged me $366 for a diagnosis that I had 3 different brand name tires, and the All Wheel Drive was having difficulty keeping the wheels in sync.The problem seems to be most pronounced when letting up on the accelerator Also pronounced when accelerating, not as much so as when letting off the accelerator, but when cruising steadily with my foot on the accelerator, it nearly goes away.
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2001 F150 2WD 4.6 102,000 miles.... All rotors and pads replaced by a shop and the trouble began. The shop swore it was my tires and like a dummie I took it to Sams and had my tires replaced.
What's been done? New BFG Long Trail T/A Touring Tires, rotors and pads were replaced a second time, new Monroe shocks and the shocks were replaced a second time, new U-joints, front wheel bearings repacked, ball joints inspected and have slight wear, new driveshaft at 20,000 miles, two new rims, two new back tires of same type, wheels balanced over and over with road force equipment. All this got rid of a dangerous shake at 67 mph but did not affect the 42 mph bounce.
I now have a pronounced bounce at 42 mph. I have an annoying vibration at 67 mph that is present 97% of the time and an occasional smooth ride for 3-4 miles on the interstate before the vibration resumes. The ride is always rough until the tires warm up. I think the vibration is caused by the road and the truck can't stop it, but I'm not sure. Three shops are scratching their heads.
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I have a very well maintained 1998 Ford Explorer 4.0 SOHC 4X4 with only 67,000 miles. Sometimes at highway speeds ( 65MPH ) there is a fairly pronounced bump / jerk. I will also happen occasionally when accelerating from a stop. IMHO, it's not a slip. Fluid has been flushed and is bright red. The best I can tell the RPMs are not jumping when this happens. I've all but counted out an engine misfire. There are no engine or OD light on. Where I should begin troubleshooting? I don't want to spend tons of money trying to isolate the issue but this Explorer is in exceptional condition so I want to have it fixed.
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First, the specifics: 1993 Ford Tempo 4-cyl Auto 78,000 miles (the proverbial little old lady car.) From a stop, the car will rev clear up to about 30 mph before shifting out of first into second. It will stay in second well past 60 mph, and even then, I have to kick it hard to make that happen. It's not that it won't shift; bit it seems to delay well past where it should. If I do manage to get it into 3rd, there's a pronounced thunk when it downshifts at a higher rev than it should when I slow down.
Now the background & other info: It's not my car. My B-I-L lent me this car because I ride a motorcycle all winter, & he took pity on me for the rainy & snowy days. In return, I offered to fix an annoying rattle. The problems went well past that, of course. The second day I drove it to work, it overheated and spewed clouds of steam in the parking garage. I had to have it towed home. That turned out to be a split in one of the heater hoses.
Disturbingly, however, the temp gauge on the dash never rose off of "C" on the ride in. I had expected to be replacing a water pump, but the heater hose seemed to be the only issue. Just the same, I replaced the thermostat and the temp sensor because I suspected the burst hose was a symptom, not the cause. Sure enough, after it's all put back together, the dashboard temp gauge is working better, and a short hop to the grocery store showed no overheating. At least that problem seems solved.
Prior to the coolant issue, the car drove fine (for one day); the shifting problem only surfaced afterward. As a last piece of info, I'll add that I had to add an entire quart of transmission fluid to bring the level between the marks. I didn't check that previously, so I can't say if that was a pre-existing condition. So then - what's the fix here? Could an overheated engine cause the tranny problem? Any chance this can be fixed simply? (FWIW, the rattle is the A/C pulley.)
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Just had our '04 Odyssey with 162K miles to the Honda dealer to have some maintenance work done. Had cabin filter replaced for first time. Out of the service area, I started the engine fine, turned on heat/a-c, adjusting fan speed to high. There's a pronounced hummer noise coming from under the dash near the blower. It's a constant hum, not something associated with some debris that may have been dislodged or floated down into the blower area. The "pitch" of the hum increases/decreases with the blower fan speed. Service personnel came out, to include the manager, and they exposed the area where the filter was replaced; nothing out of place or loose.
Told me I could schedule another appointment to have them clean out the area inside where the filter and blower are located. Told them that service should be provided as a part of the filter replacement if it could be a concern. Although I'm not a car-savvy person, I'm thinking the problem is due to replacing the cabin filter: new filter, increased air flow (and there is a substantial increase of airflow out of the dash ducts) to the fan blower -- which as been operated with a dirty filter for probably a lot of miles and it has "worn" just right, that the increase in airflow is causing the hum. Fan blower spinning faster causing the hum?
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I bought a used 2009 Prius. Somehow it refuses to go into accessory mode. I press the power button without stepping on the brake pedal and nothing happens. I wonder if this symptom is related to the fact that this car is supposedly equipped with SKS (fob has silver logo and there is a black square on driver door outside handle) but the smart key functionality does not work? (The car came with only one key fob.)
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New owner of a used 2010 here, and I cannot get the car into accessory mode. It should be simple, press the power button without your foot on the brake, right? but no... it just doesn't do anything.
But here's the thing - the car is a former rental (Zipcar), and I wonder if they somehow disabled accessory mode to avoid dead-battery issues?
The other (less appealing) possibility is that they broke it accidentally somehow while wiring up their magical gizmo that allowed Zipcard holders into the car with no key... but that doesn't make as much sense to me.
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I just bought a Camry 05 v4. it has 79k mileage. I hear some noises from engine area; what is this annoying noise coming from?
Here is my recorded video.....
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What this feature is called for my Camry to where the lights automatically come on in my car in the dashboard area? Sometimes the lights come on when it is light outside, so that bashes the theory posed to me that the light comes on when it is dark outside.
Are there any other auto lights that I need to know about? This is a Camry hybrid.
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Tonight I went out to get something out of my car, I had not driven the car in about 5 hrs. As I opened the back driver side door, I noticed a noise coming from the wheel well area. It was a quiet noise almost like a very quiet motor running, but it was very prevalent. I went to the passenger side back wheel and could hear it there also. I've never heard anything like this. Opened the trunk and listened for the noise but could not hear it there. After a few mins, I started the car and let it run, then shut it off and the noise disappeared. Only thing I could think of was a fuel pump malfunction?? I honestly don't know.
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How long should 12V battery last in accessory mode?
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I've had my 2009 Prius II for about a year now and I have NEVER been able to turn on the accessory mode. I followed the manual and put the smart key in the slot and pushed the power button while keeping my foot off of the brake pedal but I get NO RESPONSE. I tried holding the power button down, pushing it just once, and pushing it repeatedly. I've successfully engaged accessory mode on a similar interface before (on a hybrid Highlander) with no problem.
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