Camry :: Possible To Replace A/C Expansion Valve Without Tearing Apart The Dash?
Jul 19, 2013
I am looking at replacing my A/C compressor but in order to keep the warranty on the new compressor it states that I have to replace the expansion valve (and desiccant). My current compressor hasn't eaten itself yet so I am fairly confident that the expansion valve is still good. However, being a $30 part, I have no problem replacing it if it is fairly easy to access. According to the maintenance manual it is not as it instructs to literally rip apart the whole dash. I just wanted to know if any way to access it without doing all of that work?
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I have a Toyota Corolla 2003. I need to replace the expansion valve and the evaporator of the AC. I have been told I have to remove the whole dash to do that. Is that true? and if so, where I can find a video or a step by step guide in how to do that?
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I have a 2002 toyota camry xle 6 cyl i believe i have a valve cover gasket leaking vehicle has 112,000 miles. is there a step by step removal proccess i can access. I have done one on a 1995 honda passport 6 cyl how difficult is it
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Problem: rattle between dash and windshield, mostly in cold weather when going over bumps, road expansion joints, etc. Dealer quoted about $1200 to remove dash and reinstall with some new clips. Car is out of warranty.
Parts to fix: 1 piece of craft felt, a square foot of it. Color not important. 50 cents. I clean putty knife that is NOT sharp (a plastic one is great).
Cut: Felt into a few 3 inch wide long strips, then fold lengthwise, in half.
Insert: Felt into area between dash and windshield with putty knife, pushing into the fold, until felt disappears from view (this is why color doesn't matter)
Drive: the car a bit to see if you fixed it. If not, put another strip next to the one you did, or another one on top of the one you just did.
Worked for me. Clean, cannot see the felt, easy.
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Have a 2002 V6 in the family that's losing coolant at a rate of about an expansion tank every 3 -4 weeks.
I have searched all around with a flashlight, don't see any signs of coolant residue near the radiator, expansion tank or cap, water pump, or heater core connections. Heater core does not smell like coolant. Exhaust does not smell sweet or does not steam once the car is warmed up.
I pressure tested the cooling system on up to 18-20 PSI and still can't find any evidence of anything leaking out anywhere.
I'm going to change the upper and lower radiator hoses this weekend in the thought that maybe it's a pinhole leak once hot and under pressure (I pressure tested cold). Any common things I'm missing where it may leak?
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I've replaced clutches, brakes, timing belts, water pumps, radiators, etc, etc. My 2003 Elantra has 65,000 miles on it and a few years ago I tried to replace the PCV valve with no luck. The PCV valve is threaded into a copper/metal ring that is pressure fitted into the valve cover. When I tried to remove the PCV valve the copper/metal ring spun thus not allowing me to unscrew the PCV valve out of the copper/metal ring. Now when I try to unscrew the PCV valve the copper/metal ring spins in the plastic. I can't get the PCV valve out to replace it.
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How do you replace egr valve?
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Im replacing my PCV valve (CEL) but im not sure if I should replace it or just the breather hose.
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Have 2001 suburban with the 5.3. Mechanic has replaced EGR valve 3Xs. Error code specifies "replace EGR valve". Each time car runs fine for 4-6 weeks (500-1000 miles) and then service engine light comes on. Shortly thereafter the car will not idle correctly (under 1,000 rpm) and will die at stop. I think the EGR valves are getting clogged up with carbon. Car has 130,000 miles on it.
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The CEL on my Passat came on. When I scanned it with VAG-COM, the following fault code was displayed:
000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 - 002 - Control Range Not Reached
The car also felt like it lost its power in some way, especially when the turbo kicked in. So after some research, I found out that the Diverter Valve was causing this issue. Rubber diaphragm on original valve was made from rubber and was torn. I replaced it with upgraded valve and wow what a difference!!! Very easy to do, great write up link below.
DIY Diverter Valve Replacement for 2006 VW Passat 2.0T
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Two mechanics have told me that I need the valve cover gasket in my car replaced. I have all of the classic signs of needing one--the smoke coming from under the hood, the drops of oil on the pavement after the car is parked for a few minutes, etc. The problem is that I won't have the money until around Memorial Day. I drive about 300 miles a week. How desperate a repair is this, and what are the signs that I need to have it fixed immediately?
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I started my Subbie and all the lights just start going crazy on my dash. So I pulled of the road and started freaking out, Never had a hint of a problem. So I pulled in AutoZone and they ran the codes and now I'm being told I have to replace the brain to my transmission WTH? I don't own a DODGE!!! Had 3 different dodges and the tranny went on all. So I wont own one because of transmission problems. Now my Subaru has been parked since it can only get worse. Is this normal? All the error codes are...
P0700 Transaxle Control System (MIL Request)
P2762 Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Range/Performance
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Thats what my mechanic told me about my 2002 exploder sport trac with 4.0. I started another thread here a while back about my truck having a bad miss, turns out it has a broken valve spring. He said the engine must be removed to do the job as its on the #1 cylinder which happens to be on the passenger side and the cam chain drive is on the back of the block.
He said my choices are: Remove the engine and just replace the spring, which may or may not effect a repair as theres no way to know if the valve made contact with the piston. Remove the head and send it off to a machine shop for repair/inspection. Or, remove both the heads, one for repair and inspection, the other just for inspection, and then put the whole mess back together.
Whats the best option here? I'm not exactly made of money, and, I'm still licking my wounds about having such a mechanical disaster take place on a vehicle that up until this point, I absolutely loved and has only 90,000 miles on the clock.
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My '04 F250 6.0L has 220k on it. I've had the EGR serviced several times and, unfortunately, the intake manifold boiled out in one of those services.
The engine light is on now and I've got "EGR Performance Problems" just below 2000RPM most of the time but not all of the time (runs better when warmed up)
I've been unemployed for quite sometime so I'm going to have to make this fix myself.
First question, of course, is should I plan to clean or replace the valve?
The second is how to clean the manifold chambers (? right word? The carbon accessible when the EGR is removed. I've seen people on YouTube scraping them with what looks like brake tools. Is there an appropriate tool or chemical?
The third question is is it going to be very difficult removing an EGR valve that may have carbon buildup on it? Too difficult for an aging seldom mechanic to think about tackling?
I guess those are good starter questions. I didn't know until today that EGR cooler may also be part of the problem. Unlike many of the people who post here, I have not kept good repair records. I don't know when I last had my EGR valve replaced at the Ford dealership but it was probably 50,000 miles ago.
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I have a 2013 FX4 with the 3.5 twin turbo engine. How to remove the right side valve cover to replace the gasket? I have loosened the perimeter bolts and was able to get it to move slightly but nothing more. I also removed the spark plugs thinking that they might be holding the tubes which are connected to the valve cover by round seals. I have not removed the seals since I was concerned that I might damage them. Do they need to come off? If so how do I do it? It's amazing how complicated this job is! Short of calling the dealer service, I have just about exhausted all my usual tech resources.
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I just bought a used 98 Acura 3.0CL. I've noticed that when the heat is cranked, it doesn't blow hot at all. I did some quick research and came up with two answers thus far; check the antifreeze coolant and that I may need to replace the heater control valve. Am I "warm" on the area?
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And in worse condition after having taken it in for routine maintenance. They also damaged the driver's side door, along the edge there are 8 little chips, one of them larger and very noticeable. They touched them up but the one is still visible. Very disappointing, this was my first tune-up.
Anyway I'm wondering, any product I can use to keep it from tearing more, or where I might look for a replacement. It's where the button is but the outer part is also tearing. I know a replacement won't be an exact match.. and I gave it a good look as I was getting out of the car today and noticed it seems to be yellowing.
This is why I never had a light interior. There are also stains - that of course weren't noticeable at first - on the drivers side seat, from the dye in blue jeans. I did manage to get most of it off w/mild soap and water.
It's a 2008 ES 350 UL.
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Having problems with the trim on their power window panel bubbling or tearing away? I was just wondering if he dealer covered it or if it was "wear and tear." You'd think for the price of these things, it would be covered.
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Gen3 2010, 15 months on the road, 62 000 km. While washing the car today I noticed that the rubber edge bonded to the sunroof glass is buckling/rippling/tearing. Cosmetic only, as far as I can tell - damage/wear doesn't permeate far enough down to cause a problem, I don't think.
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Easy to follow instructions on how to replace the burnt out dash lights on my 1998 mountaineer? I almost bought a new mountaineer; however, I decided to keep this one. It's been very good to me and it's paid off.
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Have a 2008 Superduty F250XL 4X4 and it came from the factory with the plain-Jane AM/FM radio.Will the factory 6 disc CD player out of another 08 directly replace this AM/FM without modifying the dash or anything else?It looks to be the same size.
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