Camry :: P0440, P0441, P0442, P0446 Codes Detected
Sep 12, 2014
2003 Camry LE, 4 cyl, 165k miles – Got all of the above codes. Obviously checked gas cap and no issues there. Checked both VSV underhood and had clicking. Checked VSV at canister under vehicle and no clicking. Used a Dremel oscillating tool with flat metal blade to cut off rusted Philips head screw. Removed VSV and checked by jumpering to battery. No clicking, but did draw a tiny arc. That told me it was “trying” to actuate. Sprayed PB Blaster into hose fittings of VSV and mowed the lawn. Came back to VSV and it now actuated – but very slowly and delayed. Sprayed electrical contact cleaner in hose fittings with the VSV jumpered and open. Activated VSV several times and sprayed contact cleaner through the hose fittings several times – both directions. VSV began to active quickly. Put VSV back on vehicle. SES light went out by itself after it ran the EVAP test.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Camry with 90,300 miles. Last week check engine light came on and mechanic said it was P0440 and charcoal canister needed replacement. Did the repairs and 20 miles and two days later CEL is on again. Take it back to mechanic and codes this time are P0441 and P0446. I'm told I need a new gas cap, so it's replaced with new one from dealer. 15 miles later, CEL comes back on and I return to mechanic. This time it's reading all three codes, but they can't find anything wrong. The only parts not replaced are the vacuum seal valves, which mechanic says test as good. They reset lights and 15 miles later, the check engine light is back on. My mechanic is baffled. What the problem could be or what they should check? Car drives fine, but light coming on is annoying.
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I recently picked up a 2001 Prius to learn more about it. I've been trying to resolve the following codes: p0440, p0441, p0446. I used a new OEM gas cap & did a smoke test and smoke is coming out of the perimeter of the filler mouth and what seems to be a plastic ring with slots around the mouth.
My question is this:
1. Is this normal?
2. Does this indicate that the filler neck is bad?
3. Does this indicate that the charcoal canister is bad?
4. A bad VSV by charcoal canister?
5. Is it something else?
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I have a 2002 Echo with 185K miles on it and i have a 2003 Echo with 101K miles on it, Both have P0446 P0440 P0441 codes coming up on them, the 2002 I replaced the gas cap, VSV valve and the rubber hoses from the throttlebody to the hard plastic line in the engine bay, and the 2003 I only replaced the rubber lines in the engine bay.
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I have a 130K+ 2002 SC430 in which I recently started to smell gas in the cabin when air vents were set to pull air from outside. Within two weeks, I got the check engine light with two codes, P0440 and P0446, which mean "Evap Emission Control System Malfunction".
In doing some research the check light light could be everything from a gas cap which is not tighened properly, to a bad "charcoal canister " (whatever exactly that is), to a cracked or disconnected "Evap Hose". The only other SC430 related thread I could find on this topic is [URL] ....
If it factors in, I only use 93 octane gas. Interestingly enough, the check engine light came on within 30 seconds of me using the window washer to clean the windshield (at highway speeds), likely a coincidence.
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The check engine light on my sons 03 celica is on. Went to autozone and they got the codes for me. They are P0420, P0442, P0446, P0456. I realize that I should probably have an OBD11 reader. What steps do I take to fix this?
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Currently throwing both P0441 and P2096, just prior to this I was also throwing P0442.
Read around on web and decided the simplest thing it could be would be the fuel cap, may as well start there. Owners manual even recommends changing at 90k. Got a replacement from advanced (which is supposed to be built to OEM specs), re-set battery light stayed off, attempted to pass emissions but a few systems were "not ready". Was good for 80ish miles. Light came back on throwing P0441 and P2096. I re-tightened fuel cap and re-set battery, light went off.
Did some maintenance; spark plugs, air filter, oil/filter change and replaced the leaky oil pan. Keep putting on miles hoping to get to the recommended 200 mile mark before stopping by the emissions testing facility, 105 miles after re-set same codes came back. I'm almost positive I replaced a o2 sensor 2ish years ago for emissions. Also there is an obvious exhaust leak which could be a culprit. I seem to remember reading somewhere that a weak battery can cause problems with fuel pressure... not sure if it's true or not but for what it's worth I do know my battery is on it's last leg.
I'd like to avoid unnecessary fixes, it's only my winter car so as long as it's nothing major I'm not going to dump money in it. I'm going to take a guess and say the check engine light is coming on when these systems become ready. Plan is to try this re-set one more time hope for the best and if not replace exhaust or at least repair leak. Not sure on my next step for P0441 though. Vehicle is a 2004 Hyundai accent with 86k on it.
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My camry 2000 recently the engine light's on and the codes are P0446 and P0401
P0401:The PCM has determined that there is insufficient flow in the exhaust gas recirculation system.
P0446: The PCM has determined that a malfunction exits in the electrical circuit fo the vent control in the evaporative emission control system.
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My CEL came on and I took it in to dealer. They replaced the EVAP line and purge valve. My CEL came on again that same week and supposedly it detected a small leak (sporadic, same code as previous), they ran test and did not detect any leaks. They finally told me that I might have to replace the canister if CEL comes on again for same code.
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so my girls car is throwing an evap code (P0442) small leak detected. I bought a new oem gas cap and replaced the purge valve solenoid under the hood. that didn't work, CEL still comes on about 100mi after clearing the code.
I have checked the rubber hoses that were attached to the purge valve solenoid when i replaced it and they are fresh, no dry rot or cracks that i can see. The hose on one side goes to a hard line that runs under the car to the back, the hose on the other side of the solenoid runs under the intake to the throttle body. That hose was fine as well. Connections were tight and i even put better clamps on the hose ends that attach to the solenoid. So I have ruled out that portion of the system (under the hood).
I also removed the rear seat to access the fuel pump. All those connections seem nice and tight, I don't smell any strong gas fumes indicating a leak so i don't think the fuel pump gasket is the problem either. Finally, i checked out the hard lines running under the car front to back and I see no apparent or obvious damage. I assume my next step is to pull off the rear passenger wheel well liner and asses the charcoal canister and the LDP connections, correct??
The last thing I will mention is, Idid notice the 2 fuel lines that attach to the fuel regulator are in pretty rough shape, however not leaking any fuel. Are both of these lines actual liquid fuel lines? I am thinking one of them is a vapor return which may be part of the EVAP system. If it's dry-rotted and leaking vapors could that be the culprit??
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My mother-in-law has a Camry and she is pulling codes for running lean and airflow leak detected. The little red circled device mounted on the side of the air intake boot is hissing out air, yet I don't even know what the thing is called....
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I hope its just a gas cap issue. I just purchased one online (should arrive next week). I also tried to add Dielectric Grease to the rubber seal on the gas cap to soften it up a bit but to no avail. I hooked up my OBDII code reader to get the codes and it would only read with the car fully turned on and not with just the ACC like other cars without the smart key push button. Is that the right procedure?
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So one day when I was driving, the CEL comes on, and then I go to autozone to get my free diagnosis. I got codes: P0441 and P0171
My engine is running fine and everything else seems to be in order. However, I have to get a new canister purge valve and new oxygen sensors, in order to be in the clear.
For the Oxygen sensors, I have AN IDEA of where they're located; somewhere underneath the car, by the catalytic converter (the converter is in between the two connectors, apparently). I have yet to do this and would like some opinions on what to do for it.
For the Canister Purge Valve, I have no clue where to look. I pop open the hood and I notice a diagram with labels. Great, but there are just too many other pieces to look at...I do not know if it is visible as soon as I pop open the hood, or if I have to dig deeper, or even if I have to remove the fancy plastic thing that covers the engine.
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This last May I gave myself a graduation present and got a 2013 Sonata SE. I bought it through my Dad's friend's dealership at a pretty good deal and loved the car for the first few months, then things went South pretty quickly.
I've had more CEL issues with this car than I ever did with my piece of garbage 2000 Grand Cherokee.
The first time the light came on, I brought it to AutoZone who said I needed a new Cannister Close Valve. I then took it to my local Hyundai Dealership (Not my dad's friend's, I recently moved up to Ohio and that dealership was in Alabama) who verified that it was indeed the cannister close valve. They said I didn't need to get it fixed because it actually had nothing to do with the engine, but they gave me the part number should I want to buy it and switch it myself to save a few bucks. I bought the part from them and drove down to visit my family in the summer with the CEL on (who are in Memphis) to have my family's mechanic switch out the part. On my way down I stopped to get gas and, unfortunately for me, the gas hose kept clicking off like the tank was full after a quarter of a gallon, which obviously wasn't right. I brought it to my Memphis Mechanic and had them switch out the part, which they also said would resolve my fueling issue. They said everything was good, but on my short drive home (less than 10 miles from the mechanic) the light came back on. I turned around and my mechanic said he'd look at it. They then told me that I needed to replace a sensor in the EVAP system and that should solve the issue. For the rest of my time in Memphis, and on the drive back up to Ohio, I had no CEL, but I still had the fueling issue, but nowhere near as bad as it used to be. Once I was back in Cincinnati, however, sure enough, that stupid orangish-yellow light appeared back on my dashboard. I took it back to the Hyundai dealership who then wanted to charge me $500 to switch out the charcoal cannister which they were saying was the problem. To my great aggravation, they were unable to tell me that would solve my issue, but that it "should" fix it.
Well, yesterday the CEL popped right back on giving the same codes it's always been giving: P0442 and P0456.
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My wife has a 09 Santa Fe and we were getting code p0464 fuel sensor circuit intermittent. I changed both parts that need replacing. After about 20 miles now code p0442 small evap leak detected. I can only assume that it is coming from the fuel sensors that were replaced. Is there anything that I could have screwed up on?
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I have a 07 Mazda3 with 120k miles. I had a staring problem first time in gas station like 2 weeks ago and since then only anytime that I go to gas station. After car leave the gas station every thing is normal. Since then the check light popped on too. I have diagnosed it, it gave me two errors P0177 and P0446. I have check the gas cap, it is sturdy. Even I replaced the cap and have reset the check light. But it came back on still same errors.
As I've mentioned there is an old discussion in in your website, but it's closed. For refresh you can check it here if needed [URL] ....
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Just bough a new (to me) Touareg yesterday...2008, 75k miles, good service history. Drove home from the dealer no problems. Driving that same night (last night) the CEL comes on. Ok, I've had VWs before, CELs don't really make me panic.
Get home and scan the car and it comes back with P0327 (knock sensor 1 circuit low) and P0441 (evaporative emissions system incorrect purge flow).
I have a feeling it's got less than premium gas in it....I'm gonna throw some octane booster in the remaining 1/2 tank and see what happens. Anything else I should do?
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Car - 2004 Accent auto.- 1.6l - 97K miles
After battling a few months to get my check engine light - fault code P0304 to go off I finally remedied the problem with 3 bottles/fill ups of STP Gas treatment. This was about 1500miles ago. I go to DMV Inspection station and sat for an hour then wait anther 20minutes for the test to end and was given the big fat rejection sticker, she failed because the check engine light came on with fault codes P0304 & P0441.
Now what the heck happened here? Just bad luck and coincidence or did their test set it off? Anyway the P0441 code is new and researched it is the Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Valve. Okay where is it, the HMA manual is not specific? In relation to the intake manifold where is it? Easy fix? And will this solve my P0304 code?
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I've been having P0441 & P0455 codes showing up on my 2007 Corolla CE. My code reader tells me the areas that need checked. But, I can't find the vacuum switching valve on it so that I can check it for problems. Somebody said it's under the hood, but I can't seem to locate it.
Is is possible that it's mounted on the vapor canister (which I have located above the rear axle)?
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Shop said o2 sensor and they just want to replace one. I can get universals for around 80 each, will they work if this is in fact the problem?
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I just bought a used Toyota Corolla 2002 CE with 120K miles two months ago. the car seemed fine and drives fine too. After a while I found out that the seller had removed the "check engine" light, so I read the error code by a instrument and I got these errors. 171,420,441. And I noticed that the engine burn a quarter oil every 200 miles on long drives!I checked the VSV valve and connected hoses but no problem there. Since the car has just 120K miles, I'm not sure that the piston rings are worn out! I'm wondering what could cause all of these errors?
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