Camry :: P0171 Code And Engine Sounds Just A Lower Tone At Idle / Slow Speed
Apr 19, 2015
I have a 2004 Camry XLE V6 with about 70k with a CEL P0171 that came on yesterday. Looks like that code is for a lean condition. Could it be a bad O2 sensor or is that a different code and what should I look for to fix this code?
Also, I'm not sure if this is related but for the past few months my engine has sounded different. When I first start it up and at low RPM like 2,000 and under the engine sounds like a go kart, not necessarily louder it's just a different lower tone that it never used to have. It has sounded like this for 6 months but the light just came on yesterday.
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The car is at rest, engine on, when I turn the wheel (either sides), there is this popping sounds, coming out from the front suspension. It almost sounds like the Titanic moments before it fell apart... It also happens when I drive slow, like parking or backing out...etc. Doesn't happen at >10mph.
So I had my friend turned the wheel and I inspect it. I can feel the spring or something popping on the strut mount of the front wheels. SEE PICTURE.
I also uploaded a video with sound. I have sufficient tools to remove the struts and springs.
2009 LE
Video : [URL] ......
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I own a 2009 VW tiguan 2TSI 4WD. Lately i am experiencing undercarriage low tone grinding noise as i made turns at slow speed. i am not sure if the noise is coming from the rear or front. Why and what should i do about it.
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My 98 1.8t Passat is throwing a P1565 Idle Speed Control Throttle Position Lower Limit Not Obtained. I have cleaned the throttle body with no improvement and cleared the code many times with no luck. The car only has 114k on it car runs fine although some times will give me problems starting it ill have to sit and crank it for 40 seconds or more and also will idle on rear occasions 1300 vut normally between 850 and 900.
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2004 Mazda M3 . My auto is making grinding sounds at first-slow speed until it accelerates. It has 70,000+ miles.What could this be? What should-could be done for this concern.
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Camry 2000 CE 102,xxx miles. My car died in Jan 14, after have P0770 for while, only Reverse gear work. The mechanics said the tranny need to re-build. I had him bring the tranny to tranny shop to re-build ($1650), then the code still pop up. Brought it back, they said the ECU needs to be reset. I had the car next day then that code pop up again!
They replaced the Solenoid E. The code is still there. Brought the car back, they took the tranny to rebuild it again. Drive the car for a day, the darn code pop up again, now they blamed on the ECU. Ok my mechanic guy replaced it at my own cost for part ($150) but the code is still there. This time they blamed on the high idle rpm approx. 1600-1800. My mechanic tried to fix the high idle speed so the tranny stop blaming other causes. He cleaned IAC valve, replace O-rings (I don't remember the location of them) then he said whenever he inserted the new ones, they start to crack!
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I have a 2015 Sonata Limited and I'm trying to figure out the source of a periodic noise that I've never heard before and a car. I can't reproduce it on demand but it tends to occur on low speed turns like turning into or out of a driveway or making a turn at a slow speed residential intersection.
The sound appears to be coming from the left front of the car the best that I can localize it. And is not a squeak or high pitched sound of any kind. It is a lower frequency that I would describe as a very rapid ticking sound.
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2000 neon automatic. My wife was complaining about the rpms jumping around when on the highway going about 65mph. The rpms are around 3000 and jump very slightly up and down and you can hear the engine tone change when it happens. Checked tran fluid and it was low about 3/4 of a quart and added some fluid, changed spark plugs and wires and the problem is still there. Doesn't happen all the time. She says it seems to only do this if the car has been sitting for a few hours or longer. There is an code for the downstream sensor which needs to be changed.
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I have a 2006 Ford Ranger with the 3.0L v6. The check engine light came on and the code it is blowing is a P0171. It runs rough at idle or when I let off the accelerator and "fine" at speed.
The code told me to check/clean the MAF which I have done. Next on the list that I saw was the PCV valve. I disconnected the electrical to it and then disconnected the hose. Some oil poured out of it... not a lot but some... The valve still seems free, it clicks when I rotate/shake it and I can blow through it (I know, highly scientific). I can replace this (if I can find it, Napa and Advanced Auto don't have a part that looks like it...) but I'm wondering what else could be wrong.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Echo. I just purchases a Creader V code scanner. My car is throwing a P0171 code. The light only comes on at idle or while going under 10 mph.
The data from the reader was:
Trouble Code: P0171
Fuel System sta B1 : CL, using HO2S
Calculated Load: 11.76%
Coolant Temp 188.59 degrees
The Freeze frame data was:
ST Fuel B1: -3.91%
LF Fuel B1: 36.7%
Engine speed: 795.5 RPM
Vehicle speed: 0 mph
Intake Air Temp: 82.4 degrees.
I went back today and ran live feed on the O2 sensors. I'm not sure what STF of O2S: STF means. That was another figure displayed on my code scanner.
The O2S S1 was reading between .04 and about .82. The graph looked pretty normal (I guess) in regards to going up and back down between 0 and 1. I don't know alot about mechanics, but I seen a youtube video of a graph showing it going up and down and what is normal. Mine did that on S1.
O2S S1: STF was: 3.89 and -1.57%
O2S: S2 was a different story. It was between like .58 and .66.
The O2S S2: STF didn't give me a value at all. It just said " --% ". The graph of this was slowly going up but in a small range. It started at like maybe .4 and would go up to say .5. The next wave would be like .45 to .55, then .50 to .60, then .58 to .66 etc. So it was not ranging just between 0 and 1. It had a very tight range that gradually increased upwards.
I built my own smoke machine before testing with the code scanner and I didn't get any smoke coming out of the car except for around the air filter housing where the lid meets the bottom portion. I don't know if it's because I had the air filter wrapped in plastic wrap. Can I have an air leak where the filter cartridge connects that would case a lean code P0171? Maybe I should go try to smoke test again. I did it about 3 weeks ago and I can't recall exactly where I had the smoke going into. I thought I disconnected the PVC hose from the brake booster and plugged it in there. I assume the smoke would get thru the whole system. It took about 2 min before the smoke came out of the filter housing.
The car only sets a lean code at idle or going less than 10mph and I'm coasting in a residential area.
I have an inspection coming up in May and need to get this thing fixed before that. I can't find any other air leak, but I wasn't sure a leak around the filter would cause this and I'm not sure the leak wasn't caused by the plastic wrap.
I'm thinking my only other prob could be fuel related. Fuel filter, fuel pump, clogged injector, or can my O2 sensor be bad and causing this? I've already replaced all spark plugs and coils as well as the PVC valve and cleaned the MAF sensor with the appropriate spray.
The car runs ok. The exhaust seems to smell RICH. Like Gas. I don't think my fuel economy is as good as it use to be. It has dropped from as hi as 42 mpg to between 38 and 40 if I'm lucky.
Back when I was having problems before and realized I had a bad coil, I had tried some injector cleaner. Why the codes were back then, but I had erased them and the car ran fine for about 2 months and the light came back.
My MAF sensor was .14 lbs when I was watching the live data above. I plugged my fuel pressure tester directly into the fuel line coming from the fuel tank and got a reading of between 42 and 44 lbs (car not running, just by trying to turn the engine over). I don't know if that is as accurate (or useful) as having the fuel pressure tester on the car and in line to allow the car to start up and run and watch the tester. I have to wait until my part comes do run the test that way.
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I have a P0171 code (lean bank 1 sensor 1) on my 2002 toyota camry 4 cylinder. I don't have any other codes except for an unrelated P1780 neutral safety switch code. It has had both codes for over a year.
I have replaced the fuel filter, the upstream o2 sensor, and the PCV valve. I also cleaned the MAF sensor. The mechanic performed a smoke test and found no vacuum leaks. Did a fuel pressure test and it's normal. Mechanic thought it would be fuel pressure because the car starts a bit slow when cold, but nope. The car runs great and still gets great gas mileage. I've never experienced a misfire in my 12 years of owning the car. I am asking because I am at a loss as to what it could be.
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02 camry 2.4 I4 LE ... before, around 100K miles ... engine light on cause by Catalytic Converter issue, used magic way in this forum,the engine light has been solved successfully.
right now, 175k miles
problem:
1. engine light always keep flashing when driving.
2. low idle speed <500 at any gear except "Parking".
3. gear "D" at stop, start, reverse, accelerate around 50 mph, whole dashboard was vibrated
action made:
1. "dogbone" motor mount was broken and has replace brand new.
2. throttle body cleaning has done.
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I have 2007 explorer with the 4.6 V8....
Recently it started running horrible. Rough idle, drives badly, hesitation, etc. Check engine light is on, code P0171. I cannot find a vacuum leak, and i am pretty much at a loss. Before it started running poorly i replaced the thermostat, and flushed the coolant. I am assuming this is a coincidence.
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I got this "Failed MAF" along w/this "circuit condition or idle speed is higher/lower than expected" codes when I hooked up my car, what does this mean????
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I have a 2010 Camry LE, 2.5L auto, with approx 35k miles. While driving between 65-75 mph (I don't drive above that, so I can't tell you if it keeps going), I get a slight vibration in the seat, floorboard, and steering wheel. If no one is in the passenger front seat you can look over and see the headrest and seat vibrating like a massage chair.
I had the wheels checked and three were bent (I bought it used, so I don't know how the wheels got bent). I had new aftermarket wheels installed, same 16 inch size as the OEM. That didn't fix it. I had the wheels/tires hunter road force balanced, found out the two in the back were out of spec. So I had brand new Michelin MXV4's installed all around and hunter road force balance. That didn't fix it (though it is a lot better -- clearly the bad tires and bad wheels were causing part of the problem).
I had the car aligned to perfection. That didn't fix it.
I had a rear brake that was rubbing so I replaced the discs and pads in the back, but that didn't fix it.
I've checked all the wheel bearings for any signs of being loose, but they don't shake at all when the car is jacked up.
I've checked the struts, both by bumping the car at the corners and a visual inspection, but see nothing wrong with them.
I've checked the CV shafts -- the boots are fine, there's no play in them, nothing.
I've taken the dogbone mount off and checked it -- no cracks.
I've taken apart the front brakes to check them. No problems there (they even have new discs).
I've checked the ball joints -- no play. I've checked the steering linkage -- no play.
There's no pulsation in the brake pedal.
If the car is vibrating at a lower speed, it's not noticeable. But once you hit about 65-70, it becomes obvious to the driver. I've had passengers in the car who didn't notice, but they aren't holding onto the steering wheel and pushing the gas pedal. Both give a massaging-like pulsation.
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So I recently changed the air filter in my car. Its hard to get to and replace. Its in a tough spot and I am not sure if I secured the cover fully and completely. I am pretty sure I did. Anyway, a week later I had my check engine light come on, it stayed on for a couple hours then went off. It hasn't come back on since. However, I went to the Autozone, anyway, and had them read the code. They said it was P0171, system too lean bank 1. Is this a serious issue? What are some common ways to fix it, if it is? The car is a 2005, Honda Accord EX. 4 cyclinders. PZEV version. It has 142,000 miles on it.
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Well my girls 2006 passat is showing the check engine light. she took it to autozone and the code was, P0171. what does the code mean and what do i need to replace?
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Just noticed the other day when when rolling up or down the window on my 2010 corolla, when the window reaches the upper / lower stop and the switch is held down, the idle speed drops and the engine stumbles. Alternator ?
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I've been getting this error code recently ("Fuel Trim,Bank1 System too Lean"). I have a Scanguage, which let me get the error code, and I used it to reset the message - it came back about a week later. I took it to a local repair shop after the second time, but as I'd already cleared the message, he couldn't do anything. It came back about a week later, and this time I took the vehicle in as soon as the yellow light showed up (without connecting the Scanguage).
The mechanic said that he found both P0171 and P0172, and that the problem was a loose vacuum hose AND a failing Mass Airlow Sensor. They reattached the hose and cleaned the sensor, but said that the latter fix may not last - the light came back on two days later. I took it in again (this time, checking the codes, and found only P0171) and he said this confirms the problem with the sensor and he'll have to replace it ($280 for the part, plus labor, less a discount on the labor equivalent to the labor he put in to clean the sensor.)
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P0171 system to lean.
I already replaced the MAF so what else could it be I cleared it once and the cel came right back on. I have a stasight pipe from the catback on my car and the cabin started smelling like burning plastic and eggs every time I accelerate. I'm going on a road trip tom and was wondering if I'll be fine. The car has a bit more noise coming from the engine the usual more like a swiping tapping noise
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I picked up a really cheap Hyundai Elantra 2005 that the kid that owned it really beat up on. Right now I am trying to sort out the issues so that it can become my daily driver for the next few years.
Second issue, The check engine light is on and it is popping up a P0171 generic engine running too lean code. The car looses power sometimes and I can smell gas in the car. I have a friend that is going to be loaning me his MAC code reader so that I can see if it is one of the O2 sensors and if so which one tomorrow.
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