5 months ago I replaced the O2 sensor on the upper part. Now getting a reading that the Catalytic is not performing right. Is there another sensor that could be bad or the one i replaced is bad? Or is there a way to clean out ?
View 12 RepliesI have a 2008 Camry SE with about 118K miles
I have replaced the Water pump and the temp sensor recently.
The problem is when you turn the thermostat control to hot on the HVAC dial only warm air blows and it is only warm when the engine is revved or going down the road.
My question is: Is the door on these electronically controlled or vacuum controlled? it is like the blend door gets stuck and is not closing fully or something.
I recently had my catalytic converter replaced with a non-OEM cat. The check engine light came on and a different shop (different from the shop that replaced the cat) said that it will keep coming on because I had the cat replaced with a non-OEM cat.
View 3 RepliesI own a 2004 Ford Escape, auto, v6. I bought the car in 2007 and have had trouble with my check engine light ever since. It is usually on, but will turn off shortly after I wash it (then back on a week or so later). When mechanics test for the code, they say that my catalytic convertor needs to be replaced. In addition to the on/off strange behavior, I have been driving this car for 4 years now with no major mechanical trouble that I can only assume would result from not replacing the CC. This would be very expensive repair, one I am not interested in doing if this is possibly just an electrical problem. I am ready to get this problem solved and start driving check engine light free.
View 3 Repliesengine light and flashing cruise control switch--computer says replace bank one---so I replace with factory catalytic converter----six months later light comes back on with flashing cruise control switch and computer asking me to replace bank one---So I use computer to shut light off----four weeks later light comes back on----called dealer they said "we usually replace both banks"---I found it most painful paying for dealer supplied catalytic converter even when I was under the impression that it would keep light off.---This is my wife's car and she is not really buying the piece of black electrical tape I placed on dash over check engine light.---Am I dealing with a bad oxygen sensor ?
View 5 RepliesI've been having issues with my car, i took it to Orielly's & they ran diagnostics, one of the codes said a recommended fix was replace the MAF sensor. Today I took it by an auto shop for them to look at, and the guy said it was my catalytic converter, and I mentioned the MAF sensor, he said fixing the CC would take care of the MAF sensor malfunction. So I have a couple questions...
1. Is what he said correct?
2. If you have a bad CC, does it ever NOT smell bad?
Bc I've never smelled anything other than stinky exhaust, never any rotten egg smell.
It's a 98 Nissan Maxima, 6 cyl. it has 265K miles.
My wife's car has the check engine light on and she was told by her mechanic that it was the catalytic converter going out, to ignore it. I am thinking that I ought to be able to build a jumper for the sensor and fool it into thinking that it is working, reset the check engine light and wait till it starts to fall apart before replacing it. I'm tired of driving with the check engine light on, maybe missing something else that needs attention rather than the cat. it has 140k on this car but is in great condition. I am a diesel mechanic, no real experience with gas vehicles in a long time. oh, and we just got married. Or maybe I just ought to stay late at work and get this thing up on the rack and look into it. Put the scope on it myself??
View 19 Replies2001 sub forrester. In 2009 it was intermittently stuttering: tuneup, new coil, finally O2 sensor (both) replaced which fixed it. In Oct started to do the same thing. First the back then the front sensor replaced but they commented the flow was low on the catalytic converter but wouldn't say it could be the cause of the sensor issue. Now the O2 sensors are on either end of the converter and the car is starting with early signs already. Is is reasonable that it is the catalytic converter? I am wrestling with just having them do the full tuneup and replace the converter or am I crazy?
View 7 RepliesI wanted to get some input about lowering my 2010 Corolla LE. I wanted to go about 3 inches, but have been told i will need to replace some extra parts. Not sure where to begin, but i'm not afraid to ask questions or get dirty. I hear a lot of different things and i'm on over load with info.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2006 Jeep Liberty with 135,000 miles. My check engine light is mostly on. Sometimes it is off. One mechanic tested the car and said the catalytic converter is bad. Another mechanic said that test can often be false positive and it might only be the O2 sensor. The difference between the two is about $1,000. Which mechanic is correct? My car is registered in a state that doesn't do car inspections.
View 19 Replies I bought this truck (2011 F-350 6.2l) used a month ago with 125000 miles on it. Of course the MIL light came on as soon as the ink dried. The codes read PO420 & PO430 and my local Ford Service said replace the cats. I said what is the cause of the failure, ford said here is a list of possible causes but it's not reading other codes so they don't know what caused the failure.
Well, I went ahead and replaced both catalytic converters, all four O2 sensors, and I replaced all sixteen spark plugs. Guess what, the MIL light is back on not 24 hours later reading PO420, PO430, and now PO620 and PO645. So I just went back to Ford today and all they did was cleared the codes and told me to call if the light comes back on. They said my PCM is up to date but why it's now reading GENCOM code or AC Clutch code.
I just failed inspection because check engine light is on. The codes state that catalytic converter and O2 sensor are "not ready". I understand it has to do with the computer but not much else. Someone on Mazda 6 message board provided a complicated sequence of driving instructions including maintaining various speeds and RPMs for specific lengths of time which they said would reset the computer. My mechanic is at a loss. This car is a lemon and I would just like to get the inspection done so I can trade it in and get something that doesn't keep breaking.
View 6 RepliesI discovered an oil leak while performing some maintenance. The GS450H has 80k miles. I am trying to determine if this is the common oil leak or perhaps the fitting at the top. 2GR-FSE Timing Cover...
View 1 RepliesWhen I had a new battery installed, the check engine light came on; initially, testing showed 2 valves performing "intermittently". Have done a full tune-up with new spark plugs & rotor, which briefly fixed it. Anything that can be done other than a full valve job?
View 7 RepliesI just took my 2005 Camry to get smogged and it failed. The reading said that my evaporator and my catalytic converter failed. I reset and drove her for almost 200 miles to get the reading settled, but that did not work. I checked all my fuses and the smog-guy and I have no clue what the issue could be. I don't think that the catalytic converter needs replacing since she only has 60,000 miles on her, but what could be the problem that it keeps saying 'fail'.
View 6 RepliesMonday get CEL with codes p0722 and p0322. Car is in limp mode during these codes. Yesterday I change g68 sensor. Cleared codes, rough start but was sitting most of the week. Drove around fine, no limp mode, shifted fine. Started up a few times immediately after. Hours go by I go to leave and it won't turn over though it sounds its wants to. No clue why this is happening or what changing the sensor could have done. This is a 01 GLS 2.0 auto. Not sure where to from here especially since it drove so well afterwards.
View 4 RepliesI replaced the knock sensor because I was getting the p0327 for the front knock sensor. Drove it again and still sputtering and CEL came back. What are other causes of this? N75 solenoid? Low fuel pressure?? It has a spectre air filter kit on it. Didn't know if this would do it. I cleaned maf. Just put new plugs in it too.
View 5 RepliesI just had an OBD code pulled on my 2010 Camry and it turns out that my Heated O2 sensor for Bank 1 Sensor 2 is failing. I'd rather do this myself if I can but I can't figure out where this thing is. Is this something I can access myself and swap out? Or does this need to be fixed by a mechanic?
View 9 RepliesI have just purchased a 2008 Santa Fe Limited and there is a problem with the steering. At slow speed, particularly in reverse when performing a full-lock turn, the power delivery is jerky and the vehicles jumps a bit.
It feels like either the AWD system is binding or the CV joints are operating beyond their limits. I have ready other posts that this is a known problem - the dealer I bought it from said the same, that it is known and seems to be accepted by Hyundai, there seems to be no recall on this and apparently this doesn't happen in post 20009 models when they face-lifted and supposedly changed the steering lock limits.
I'd like to understand more what is happening, see if there is a solution that I can implement, or alternatively if I have to just accept this, then it would be good to get reassurance that what I am feeling is not going to damage something further down the line.
We bought a 2006 Hyundai Sante Fe with the 3.5L and 4 wheel drive about two months ago, it has 94,000 miles on it. It was purchased from a dealership, and they had to work on it for a month before we took it from them because of some lights that were on, resulting in some sensors being replaced. We had it about a month when we took it to the grocery store, when we came back out I started it and it made a terrible noise, but was running, I immediately turned it off. Upon further inspection, the main serpentine belt had snapped, causing some damage to the secondary belt. We towed it home and I began to fix the belts.
When I pulled off the passenger side wheel and access cover, I noticed the remains of the belt were stuck behind the harmonic balancer, I tugged on it with about 5 pounds of force, and the entire pulley fell off of the harmonic balancer. I'm not sure if the belt stacked up behind and pushed it off, or if it just went bad, but the rubber between the portion that connects to the crank and the pulley was ripped, and missing in some spots. I replaced the harmonic balancer, and both belts, good to go, everything is running fine.
About a week later, the TCS etc. lights came on, but no check engine. I researched it a bit and came up with three possibilities:
1. Fuse
2. Tone wheel cracked/broken
3. Crankshaft position sensor
I checked the fuses and nothing was burnt, I never lifted the truck up to check the tone wheels.
I'm working on a 1999 Chevy Astro 4.3L with an occasional crank, no start condition. On any given day, this vehicle will start right up and run fine, although some days it will start right up and have a part-throttle stutter; not a dead miss, but a stutter when accelerating that sometimes goes away. When it has the stutter, disconnecting the MAP sensor will cause the stutter to go away completely. I replaced the MAP sensor, but nothing changed. Today, it's back to its crank, no start attitude problem. The basics check out fine: good, strong spark at the wires, 60-65 psi of fuel pressure, and I even pulled the plenum to verify fuel is firing from the injectors. Everything seems to be happening as it should except that it will not start and run. I even tried doing the Passlock relearn procedure on it, despite spark and fuel happening when it should, one or both of which would normally be eliminated by the security system, but to no avail. What could possibly cause this here-today-gone-tomorrow no-start condition?
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