Camry :: Notchy When Upshift Into Third From Second In Cold Weather
Dec 12, 2013
After the car has been sitting all night in the cold 20 degree weather, it is notchy when I upshift into third from second. I already swapped out the manual trans fluid with Amsoil 75w90 GL-4 manual trans fluid. It didn't really change anything, but I will say that whatever fluid was in there before was quite dark. It may have even been the original fluid from the factory (80,000 miles), I am not sure. The shifter is also a little stiff feeling when its very cold.
Once car has been driven for a little while (20+ minutes), and is warmed up real good it isn't notchy or stiff. Is this just something I have to get used to?
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In Jan my 94 Toyota Camry started having issues with starting- for instance, I would run an errand for 10 minutes get back in the car and it wouldn't start. However, this tended to be random. When this problem happened more often I took it in and they said I needed a new starter so I got one (Feb) and didn't have any issues for a month, but then began to have the same issue on and off again. I took my car back in for the second time and they said it must have been a bad starter. They gave me ANOTHER new starter (Apr) and my issues continued soon after. I took it back in and they didn't have an answer for me other than the starter was good. Took it to another mechanic and he had the car for two days and could not find ANY ISSUE with the car. I let it brush over during the summer months because I never had this issue (June-Aug) and now that it's gotten cold again I'm having this problem.
Few things to note: -Anytime I have this issue I'll hit the starter with a hammer and it will ALWAYS start. This has been the case since January.-It ALWAYS starts in the morning and when I get back in my car after working all day. However, if I were to run errands in the morning or at night it would not start with the stop and go. -This only happens in the cold months -They tested the newest starter and they say there's nothing wrong with it.-Within the past two years I've had MANY things replaced on this car and any shops I've taken it to say it's a great car with no issues they can find.
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My 2003 Camry LE is normally parked in our garage in Southern California so we have no problems. We have gone a few times to Utah, Arizona and other areas in So. Calif when it was very cold and had our alarm go off in the middle of the night. We turn it off and then it keep going off until we start driving it. Dealer doesn't want to disconnect alarm.
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I have a 2004 2.4 liter camry .
When I first started the car it hesitated a bit but,it was very cold. I went to give it a shot of gas but had no pedal response . I shut the car off gave the gas pedal a few whacks and it worked fine .
On the way home the car worked fine for about 30 km , just before I got home the pedal had no response again, shut the car off , started it and drove home .
The next day it was worse , so I put it on a scanner ,the scans said bad throttle position sensor (tps) and also a few codes for throttle body valve sticking or bad signal .
I tried the easy fix first and changed the gas pedal with sensor , same thing , then I changed the throttle body itself , same thing, then went a installed a computer (ecu) and that won't even start the car .
My ecu 89661-06a0, replaced it with 89661-06a2.
The car will start on all 4 cyl and idle high for a few sec then drop like normal , once the idle hits 8k rpm the car is only fires on 2 cylinders 2 and 3 , (changed then swapped coils no difference) as its idling on 2 cylinders and I press the gas pedal it will rev to about 2k rpm and run on all 4.
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i have a 2002 camry le .. my door ajar dash light comes on when the car has been sitting for 2-3 plus hours in cold weather 30 degrees or below ... its draining my battery .. tried lubricating door latches on all 4 doors and has not worked, came back 3 hrs later and door warning light on dash came back on ..
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My Camry Hybrid XLE has been at the dealership for a total of 26 days and 3 unsuccessful repair attempts relating to my dash that constantly creaks and makes cracking noises during cold weather. The shop foreman at the dealership also has not had a single camry (besides mine) come back for a noisy dash. The lemon law in my state kicks in at 30 days in the shop and/or four unsuccessful repairs and the dealer is well aware of this. I currently have the car and am waiting for a 'field technical specialist' to show up to take a look. I was told he/she comes comes 'once a month' but offered no more details than that. I noticed on this forum that some dealerships can call the specialist whenever and have them show up. Apparently mine only comes once a month... My luck will be that it will be too warm the day the specialist shows up and they will not be able to reproduce the issue!
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I have a 2002 Camry 4 cyl LE with a 4spd automatic transmission. Recently I have been experiencing slow long shifts from 1-2 and 2-3. It's as if it is coasting in neutral for a couple of seconds before finally engaging the next gear. I experience this sensation only after the vehicle has cooled down. The transmission will start to shift like normal within 3 miles of driving. I have only experienced this recently as the weather has started to drop.
I have not changed my transmission fluid much as it is a synthetic and Toyota claims it will last the life of the car. I did a drain and fill at 90K mi. The car currently has 150K mi on it and after experiencing these problems I did a drain and fill, drove the car 10 miles and repeated with another drain and fill. This seemed to have worked on the first day after doing this but now it is back to the slow long shifts. I am thinking of cleaning the strainer and taking the car in to have the transmission flushed. Is there a way to tell if my transmission is failing?
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2014 se , 7k miles. Get a pretty noticeable sound. its hard to explain its kinda like a grumble for about two seconds. on very cold weather starts.
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So a year ago I installed the Stigma SS and I loved it, one of the best mods i've done to my car. However my love for it is decreasing. The notchy shifts are getting a little too much for me. Due to the winters here in Colorado, the cold makes it very hard to shift, notchy as hell, and first to second shift is very resistant when the car is first started. Even in the summer, it seems more difficult to get nice smooth shifts around town because of the resistance going into gear, it's just not as bad.
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I got a new '13 Elantra GL sedan with standard transmission a month ago, and I've noticed that 1st gear is very "torquey" (always jumps when mildly applying or releasing gas pedal), and there is a very notchy shift clunk from 1st to 2nd, so loud you can audibly hear the gearshift change quite significantly. The torquiness occurs for about 1st-4th gears (It's a 6-speed), but the notchy clunk doesn't occur for any other gears except 1st, and I took my friend's 2013 Veloster stickshift for a drive the other day, and his 1st gear is MUCH smoother and less jumpy.
Also, taking off in 1st is a very delicate balance and I still stall it now and then, no matter how much I focus and practice. It also feels like it's sputtering on takeoff every time, unless I really slip the clutch (which isn't a good habit to take up). Slipping the clutch for reverse is necessary unless I want a very jumpy, very grindy and clankery (is that a word? lol) reverse.
Is this an issue with Elantra sedans in general for stickshift models, or is it a problem with my specific car? Should I bring it into the dealer?
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while taking turns at slow speeds, but only sometimes. Can't reproduce by turning wheel when not in motion. My 3yers/36,000 miles warranty expires soon. How do I prove I have a potential problem?
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Cold weather making my clutch soft... Or is it something else? I just drove it fine 5 hrs ago and now its cold as hell and can put it into gear.
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2001 Intrigue 3.3 L v6
Due to the cold weather, seems the battery could not start the car. I removed the battery to trickle charge it overnight in the house, and hooked it back up in the morning. It seemed to have sufficient charge to power the starter motor, but the engine would not turn over. I could hear a whirring sound whenever the key was turned, and the sound stopped whenever the key was turned off.
I am suspecting that the starter motor somehow is not engaging with the engine flywheel?
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I was heading home last night from work and noticed something odd. It was the first pretty cold night that we have had around 20-25 deg. and I took off from the parking lot like normal.
When I got to the first stop light about a mile down the road I heard what sounded like the engine revving up right when I took my foot off the gas pedal. It did this as I coasted to the stop light. It also did it again at the next stop light just up the street. I thought maybe it was the heater blower, but It really sounded and felt like the engine revving. The car did not accelerate or anything, is this part of the warm up or normal? I also have the lower grill blocked but I don't see how that would make any difference.
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My car is eating up battery power: only when outside is cold, below 10 C,something very strange, in summer days there is no battery draining, my climate stays adjusted at 19 C, but now is very cold and I make it 25 C,and then it is the mystery: the battery is draining for 2-3 hours below 10V?
I made some tricks:
-when the car i turned off while climate is set to 25C(or above 24C)-the battery is draining very fast, second battery relay switches on and I can turn the ignition on only with the key in!
-when the car is turned off while the climate is set to 18C(or below 24C) the battery drain is very small???
So does something turn on while the car is locked,or something is trying to keep any temperature inside? I double checked if AUX heating is off,and it is off,I don't have parking heater or anything. Another thing I notice is when I turn on the rear seats climatronic above 24C the voltmeter goes from 14V to 13V and stays there for a 5-10 min,if I turn off the rear seats climatronic or set it below 24V the voltmeter gets back to 14V?
Whats is happening with the car?
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I have an 89 Volvo 244 DL series. I have had a complete tune-up, and oil change just recently. Battery works great, plenty of voltage, even had the fuel injection cleaned out.
Problem is the car starts right up when it is cold, however, after driving it and let it set for an hour the car starts up slower and immediately it stalls out. I do it again and the same thing happens and then I leave my foot on the pedal to keep it running at a higher idle for a bit and then place into a gear & it goes without any hesitation. If by chance I do not leave foot on pedal and put it in whatever gear it immediately stalls out. I have driven Volvo's for years, from the 70's to what I have currently. I never had encounter anything like this and have dealt with many other issues and this one has me baffled.
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"Vehicle with smart key system: The indicator light flashes after the "POWER" switch has been turned OFF to indicate that the system is operating." I have noticed that my immobilizer light will not blink when it has the no start issue. usually when the key is out the light blinks but when it won't blink.... it won't start.
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Had a really cold day here, got on the highway and from around 80-100 km/hr the car had bad vibration, would be unbearable for any extended time. I got up to about 120 and the vibration lessened.
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So this is weird. When it is cold outside it takes a few minutes before my stereo will work. It powers on and you get a quick blip of audio but then it takes a few minutes before it will work again. What is causing this issue?
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My 2003 Subaru outback has a gas smell when i first start it on very cold mornings. I live in New England. It goes away after the engine is warm. Also, it never happens in warm weather.
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Went on a trip up to MI in cold and snow, and the engine light comes on. Great, I'm thinking, figuring me, the wife and our two babies stranded in another quality VW product. We pull over and call the closest dealer on the cell, and they say to just ignore it unless its flashing. When I got home, I vagged it and it says the cats were below their operational limit - I'm guessing too cold?
Whats the deal here? Can I look forward to engine lights everytime I go out in the cold? (this car is slowly driving me nuts. How can it be so bad and my Audi so good?)
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