Camry :: Normal Lights Are Dim / Auto On Position Results In No Lights / High Beams Ok
May 18, 2012
2008 Camry Hybrid. Normal lights are dim. Auto on position results in no lights. A turn brings the lights on, but appears to be a "parking" position. High beams OK
The dealership has no clue - they wanted to sell new bulbs. They are barely bright enough to drive at night, certainly not 10% dimmer from age as they described.. (plus the auto on does not work ).
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I've ran into an issue with my high beams on my 07 Camry SE. All lights are working except high beams. When you switch to high beams the lows only stay on. The dash light comes on and shows high beam indicator, but no brights! Fuses look good, and so do both bulbs. Going to go buy a bulb later today just to try. Like I noted they both just suddenly stopped. I'm leaning towards dimmer switch on column now.
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Yesterday, I went through my car doing a complete LED conversion. I got everything done. And then I replaced my high beams with Silverstar Ultras. I didn't touch my fog lights or my low beams (these will come next.) And then I went and got some wings with the boys, showing off my new LEDs and my bright high beams. We noticed that my fog lights turn off when my high beams were activated. A cool point I never knew about, but, it is extremely relevant in this story.
This morning I went to work, and noticed that my fog lights were not working. So after work, I came home and tried everything to get them working, check fuse in car, and tried every combination of light to activate them. Then I checked the fuse box under the hood, I hadn't actually ever looked in there before. When I did, I noted that the 10amp fuse, Fog R/R was missing... MISSING. I took the spare from the cover and put it in, and bam, fog lights work again.
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I recently noticed that the high beams on my car are actually pretty dim (38k miles with them.) I've looked online and it seems fairly easy to change out the bulb but I wanted to know if there any specific bulb brand recommended and also I wanted to know how to add fog lights since I live in a part of the country where it snow alot and its foggy in the summer.
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I want my fog lights to turn on with my low beams when they are set to auto.
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Didn't find anything on this, but I've noticed that on my GTI the Fog Lights stay on when the High Beams are turned on. Which I find unusual since no other car I've ever owned did this (Including my '12 TDI), and as far as I understood, in the US (At least here in NY), it was actually illegal to have them both on at the same time. ?
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I find it is that the lights do not turn off after parking when they are in the auto position unless you take the key out. Is there any way around this? It's kind of odd to have to take out the key when parked inside the garage.
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Like on most Chevrolet's or other cars, when you unlock your car with the remote, your headlights come on for awhile. I've tried to 'unlock' this feature with a scanner but the only option I was able to change was the auto lock door function. Is there any way to activate this feature (if possible)? If its not possible with a scanner. I have a '09 Santa Fe Limited, w/ Auto Lights w/o DRL.
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Any mod that will allow the fog lights to remain on when the high beams get turned on?
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What steps are needed to modify a 2005 RX 330's fog lights to stay on with the high beams? I found the info on the web & did this modification to my 2010 Tundra but can not find any info pertaining to how to mod an RX.
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Any way to run fogs and high beams same time?
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Vehicle: 1983 chevy c10
Here's the problem, when the high beams are on the dash cluster lights work fine,but when I turn the high beams off the dash cluster lights go off.Im going to buy a new high beam switch but what else might cause this problem?The truck has one of those metal button high beam switches that is mounted on the floor.
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Ok today I was driving my 2004 Gli n noticed when I flash my high beams (pull them back for temporary lights) my interior lights come on. When I release the high beams the lights go back off. I know this isn't normal n wanna fix it.
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For my 2013 with HID lights, I'm adding a light bar, and trying to find a good wire to tap into so I can wire in a relay to turn the light bar on with my high beams. As it's going to a relay, I originally thought to use a fuse tap, but the high beam fuse is always powered. Any other wire I can use in the cab?
I'm also looking for an in cab wire for the reverse lights I'm adding. I've been trying to make sense of the wiring diagrams online, but I am not having any success.
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A good while back I seen a thread to do this , but can't locate it now. I have a 2012 F250 and looking to make my night time driving better ....... I want to run both low and high beams at the same time and getting the fog lamps to stay on when going from low to high beam.
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I have a '99 Explorer XLT and when I turn the high beams on, the fog/driving lights shut off. Is this normal? Is there a way I can keep the fogs on while the highs are on?
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I have an 2001 F250 SD with 7.3 Diesel. Headlight switch failed and I replaced it. But now I have no high beams and my dash lights that light the dash up don't work. Gauges, fog light, low beams all work fine. Fuses checked. Multi function switch checked. What to do next?
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I have a 2015 460LS and having trouble with setting the auto high beams. I have the lights set to auto , push the stalk forward and press the auto button; however, the brights do not go off when approaching oncoming vehicles at night. Am I doing something wrong, or is there something wrong with the car?
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Noticed auto high beams are coming on too often. When driving down the road, they will almost work and come on way too often. How to reduce this light sensitivity, that would be very useful.
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When I position the switch into 4x4 High or 4x4 Low the dash lights do not come on. Also, I have a vacuum leak at both hubs.
I tested the vacuum lines from the ESOF solenoid (or whatever it's called, the box on the fender where the vacuum lines originate) and I don't have any leaks in the lines. I put the Mighty Vac straight to the back of the hubs and I definitely have leaks at both hubs.
So, why am I not getting the light on the dash, and why do I have leaks at the hubs? FWIW, I replaced both wheel hub assemblies in March, and everything worked fine at that time. I'm hoping the yellow o-rings are still good. Is there a chance I lost torque on the four bolts behind the hubs causing a failed seal? Is there a seal on the outside of the hubs that could've failed?
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Last week, my 2002 V6 Camry decided it didn't want to start when the key was turned. That was with my wife driving. By the time I got out there, the car was running just fine. She said it didn't turn over, didn't click, nothing.
Today, it did it again, but it didn't have that magic reawakening like it had last week. I tried jumping it to see if it was the battery, but it did not change anything.
Here's what happens: Turn key to run position, and the dashboard lights up.
Turn key to start position, and there's silence. The clock on the dash turns off (as normal), but the only noise under the hood is the sound of the starter relay making a single click.
Does that mean the next place to look is the starter Solenoid? Can I jump the solenoid like on an old car to see if that starts her up?
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