Camry :: No Start After V6 Warms Up
Apr 14, 2015
We've been having intermittent issues with no start after car warms up. No codes have been thrown, newer plugs. Car runs fine once it starts no misses or hesitations. I haven't found any good sources for schematics of fuel sys or ignition in order to begin to diagnose the problem. Issue isn't present on cold start or after car has set a few hours (at least not yet). Cranks strong. Once when I drove the car and got stuck I was able to give it a shot of starting fluid after the air box and got it to fire off. which leads me to think it's fuel related. I haven't had the tools to check spark the last time I got stuck. My wife typically drives it as my commute doesn't replicate the problem.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
My 86 f150 will start great and run when cold, but when it warns up it won't start. I will turn over strong, but it just won't fire. I have replaced the ecm and the Icm. What else could it be?
View 6 Replies
First time user here, have done several repairs to my vehicles, but I'm still a greenhorn when it comes to general car operation knowledge.
My 1997 Geo Metro with a 1.3 Liter will start when the engine is cold but once it warms up it refuses to start. I've replaced fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator, and checked to make sure the fuel pump is working and it is. I think I've narrowed it down to the fact that the fuel injector is not pulsing. It will fire when I prime it, but dies immediately.
View 8 Replies
Timing belt broke, replaced belt and head camshaft position sensor. After engine is ran awhile 5-10 miles it will not start until it cools down for at least 45 minutes. Even with jumper cables attached.
View 2 Replies
After my Camry XLE V6 warms up to temp it starts to smell like burning rubber - my wife states that it smells like burnt popcorn. I bought the car and I believe it had been driven for quite some time with a bad upstream rear O2 sensor - when I hooked up my scan tool to it, it showed as a bad o2 and miss on #3 and #6 cylinders - I replaced the coil pack feeding #3 and #6 and runs smooth - put a Denso OEM o2 sensor on the rear and still has a miss code but not an emissions code - still smells like burning rubber - I figured the smell was coming from the bad o2 and it running bad AF mixtures.
I figure that if the catalytic converter was plugged or needed replaced that I would get a code for it. I noticed a bit of oil around the valve cover gaskets so I gave them about a 10th of a turn down to see if it would stop the leak and steam cleaned the oil off the motor - still smells of burning rubber - car has never had the timing changed or drive belts for that matter. Drive belts look good, I will have them changed the next time serviced but I'm not sure about the timing belt...car has 218,000 miles but looks great - serviced regularly - bought from my dad and his cars last forever - what this could be?
View 5 Replies
Last fall I flushed and changed out my water pump, Thermostat, Coolant Temperature sensor, and coolant reservoir. My 2001 Excursion ran find all fall and winter long. This year I changed out the Fan clutch.
Problem: when it warms up and drive well for a while than the gauge start to go up and start staying its overheating. The weird thing is when I turn on the A/C it brings the temperature back down. When its in gear and running without the A/C it creeps up to almost the red. I cleaned the Radiator and made sure it was clean but it still does the same thing. On top of that, the upper hose (when the car is turned off) seem to colapse slightly.
Other than getting it professional Flushed I don't know. The coolant has nothing to do with the Radiator? I'm pretty much stump with it.
View 8 Replies
My fathers 1990 GMC Sierra 1500 Pickup Truck 4.3L runs fine when it is cold but as soon as it warms up it starts running rough then stalls and won't start. There is no spark when it dies. As soon as it cools off it starts back up and runs fine till it warms back up.
View 2 Replies
I've got a great little 1991 Civic DX, 1.5L manual. It's never let me down and I love working on it.
Stalled on the highway a couple weeks ago and I couldn't get it re-started. Over the years, it's had a bit of a personality where it chugs and occasionally stalls at a low idle, or when very slowly accelerating from a stop. If I'm sitting still, I'll turn the key to full off, give it about 30 seconds, and it'll start right back up. For whatever reason just re-starting without turning off never seemed to work.
So since it stalled on the highway and I wasn't able to get it started at all, here's the list I've replaced or completed:- main relay- fuel filter- plug wires- spark plugs (the old ones were due, but not overdue, and all four were pretty fouled with burned oil and had oil in the wells)- spark plug well o-rings and valve cover gaskets- and fully charged the battery
At this point, if I let it sit until it's cool, it'll start right back up with no trouble. Then once it warms, it starts to run a bit rough, eventually chugs, stalls, and then I can't get it started again - spins a few times, then kinda sticks, then spins a few times, and kinda sticks again.
View 3 Replies
I have an 03 F350 with the 6.0L. It has 210,000 miles on it and the injectors are beginning to be suspect. Its very hard to start when its cold, smokes and runs like crap untill it warms up.
I've found a set of injectors out of a 2005 truck with 8000 miles on them. The truck was overboosted and blew a head gasket.
Now finally to my question.....Can the overboost damage the injector? Would it be safe to buy these and install them or rebuild them before install or just leave them alone?
View 14 Replies
I have a 07 6.0 powerstroke, I had 2 bad injectors so I replaced all of them with reman's. I had a problem with them coming loose. the first time this happened it hydrolocked the motor, number 8 cylinder. so I pulled all the injectors and replaced all the seals and washers and torqued them down a little more than spec like 27 lbs. it runs great and starts great even at 25 degrees but I noticed this morning that when starting it up after it sits (cold) it blows blueish smoke until late it warms up and I accelerate. is this normal? should I check fuel filters? oil in fuel?
View 14 Replies
Where the ICP is located on a 2006 f350? I have a no start condition after the truck warms up, everything else is fine. Started fluid works to crank, I suspect the ICP and /or Orings.
View 4 Replies
Recently when I start my car, it starts fine when it's cold because it will idle high until it warms up, but if I start it while it's warm the rpms drop to about 500 barely idlling and if I tap the gas a couple of times the problem goes away and it idles normally at about 700.
I recently also replaced the o-ring on the distributor because it was leaking oil. I reset the timing twice. It is hard to get an accurate reading in the dark, looking at a little timing mark 3 feet away, but I am sure it is at 10 BTDC.
New wires, new thermostat, air filter could be a little dirty, other than that, I am thinking it might be an oily sensor or something else?
View 2 Replies
I have my daytime running lights on all the time since purchase in 2004 - this is the first time I am changing any kind of bulb on the car.Headlights are ok when starting car, but after it warms up the headlight goes off. Took it to my local repair shop and they said the connector was loose but that night the headlight was off again.
View 9 Replies
I just replaced the ignition coil as recommended by the computer and the car ran fine for a few days. Now it starts missing about a mile after starting, for a while. Then it almost never misses after it is fully warmed up. The computer does not find any issues at this time.
View 2 Replies
2010 Prius III, not three since Roman numerals were used for the model year 2010.
View 3 Replies
I have a Saturn SL2, 2000, 110k miles, automatic. When the engine is cold, reverse works. After the engine warms up, reverse stops working. It doesn't start moving from being in that gear, nor does it work when I push on the gas. Shifting from First to Second is a little rough at times.
View 2 Replies
I have a 1996 Toyota Camry with 200k miles on it. It has been giving me trouble starting for a while and I was advised to replace my battery during my last oil change. The problem is when I try to start it does not start for a while. It makes a noise and tiisssssss and stop. tissssss and stop. But then third or fourth try, it works. I installed a new battery and I am still having the same problem. One cold day, it never started no matter how many times I tried. My roommate who is an aerospace engineering PhD candidate came out of the apartment with a teapot full of how water and poured it onto the terminals. For record, terminals are clean. When he did that, it worked.
What is wrong with car?
View 3 Replies
I drive a 94 camry with 4 cylinder motor. I just had a head job done on the car. The head had three valves messed up on it and a blowen head gasket. Got that done. Now you can start the car get it warm, shut the car off and wont start back. Turns over but no noise when you turn the key. What it is causing this? Is there something i missed when i did the head on it?
View 11 Replies
I have 91 camry that when you go to start it, it turns over then makes a chugging/choking sound and wont start. battery is good bc the radio/lights/etc come on, and i can put everything into gear. Its about 35 degrees here so im hoping that it may just be needing some antifreeze which is on the way.
View 2 Replies
We have a 1996 GMC Sierra 1500 Turbo Diesel and since yesterday, it's had a problem... When it warms up, it runs really rough and misses at idle. While it is doing this, white smoke spills from the exhaust. When we rev it to about 2000 rpm it runs smoothly. Sometimes at idle it misses bad enough to stall. Some say it could be the IP, EGR or injectors?
View 1 Replies
My 90 lumina euro 3.1 has idle surge after it warms up. fluctuates between 600 and 1200 rpm when in drive. When you first get on the throttle it wants to die. Once you get past that it runs smooth while driving. Ive also notice that it tries to "buck" when its at lower rpm and barely on the throttle while pulling.
I can't seem to find any vacuum leaks, has recient tuneup, had a egr code and that has been replaced. I've cleaned the throttle body also. Previous owner had intake gaskets replaced as well as fuel injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump.
View 12 Replies
