Camry :: No Response With Throttle Pedal Input
Oct 11, 2013
First ever failure with a Toyota. We limped home at 25mph this morning. No response with throttle pedal input, but the throttle body did operate in fail safe mode. Throttle pedal checks out with omhs check across the terminals per Toyota manual. I'm looking at having the car transported 45 miles to nearest dealer. I can change the tb out myself but not sure of the electronics. Does the computer have to be programed for a new tb?
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Today when driving my 2003 Camry(148,000miles), I lost all throttle response. Car was driving normal, I stopped at stop sign, tried to go and got NO response when applying the gas pedal. car will idle fine at about 1000 RPM's. When pushing gas pedal car does nothing.
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2002 Elantra auto trans issue.
We are experiencing NO throttle after the car sits over night. But Not every time. When I write "NO throttle" the car will start but will not increase rpms with pedal input/movement. Runs at idle only. After a few minutes, it picks up the pedal input and is fine until is sits over night, sometimes.
I have changed out the TPS and no change. The car has just over 80000 miles and otherwise runs like a champ. There is no check engine light or any stored codes. The cable rotates freely at the TB. I read in the forums that the TPS replacements can be suspect.
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I've got an '04 VW Golf that has recently taken to occasional bouts of no throttle response from the accelerator pedal. This has happened a handful of times during the past few months and until this morning occured only while driving on the highway at a constant rate of speed (~58-60mph). What happens is the engine will start to decelerate as though I've taken my foot off the gas but my foot hasn't moved off of the accelerator. The car's a manual transmission and for no good reason I usually shift into 4th gear (out of 5th) slap down the accelerator pedal a couple time to rev the engine while the cluth is depressed between gears and the accelerator will wake up and I'll get throttle response again and all's well. This morning it happened twice on the highway and once in first gear starting from a stop at an intersection. I'm worried I may not make it home... This is Minnesota and it's very cold -- could it have something to do with the temperature?
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I got in a work truck yesterday, sat down, put my seat belt on and started the truck. Just as I did that another employee drove by and waved, all I could do was nod back at him because my hand was still starting the truck. This took my attention away for a split second, then as I put the truck in gear, my foot still on the brake, I noticed that the tachometer was pegged and the engine was racing. I instinctively pushed harder on the brake pedal, then looked down to be sure that I was pushing on the brake pedal and I was. Right then then rear of the truck started shaking violently and as fast as I could I turned the key off and put it back in park. This all happened in about 1 second, maybe 2.
The shaking was caused by the sheared off driveshaft. And it was sheared off because the center section of the rear differential had broken the spot welds that hold it and place and rotated on the axel housings. It is now pointing upward towards the bed of the truck. Have a drive by wire truck run the engine at wide open throttle with no input from the pedal? 2010 F150 4.6L...
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My 2007 Chevy Impala with the 6-cyl engine is, overall, a nice car. One thing I just do not like about it, though, is the electronic throttle. There is a quite annoying lag between acceleration on the gas pedal and response from the car It isn't just my car, all the Impalas and other cars I test drove when shopping for the car are the same way. Even the 2007 Buick with the last year of the 3.8 L engine had a touch of lag time compared to the 1987 Olds Cierra I had with its 3.8 L engine and mechanical throttle. I'm no lead foot but when I want acceleration I want it now and not later. Guess I got spoiled from 20 years driving the '87 with its giddy up and go.
When making left turns without a traffic light, I have to allow a much wider open slot in oncoming traffic than I ever did since driving the 1973 Toyota Corolla with its four weak hamsters under the hood. I'm not the only person I've heard gripe about electronic throttle. I have to wonder what about drive by wire is superior to mechanical throttle if it slows down the throttle response so noticably???
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2009 Limited, 3.3L, 65000 miles.
Car starts, check engine light and ESC light come on. The car has no throttle/pedal response. It will not go above idle speed and it doesn't matter how much the fuel pedal is pressed. So we've turned around and returned to where we started.
The first time I let the car sit for five minutes and started it. No problems for four weeks. Yesterday, we tried that four times and that didn't work. I disconnected the battery for five minutes and the car works normally again.
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I own a 2000 F250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4. The only aftermarket engine modification I have is a Tymar intake. The problem I'm having started about 6 months ago in a very erratic fashion. I would pull up to a traffic signal and as the light changed to green, without warning the truck would have no throttle response. The engine was running fine; there was just no response as I stepped on the accelerator pedal. Usually when I put the transmission in neutral, revved the engine a few times, the throttle would come back on line. This happened 4 or 5 times over the summer and then went away completely until today. Today it came back with a vengeance. At one point I had to shut the engine down completely to restore throttle response. It's a bit unnerving when it happens in the middle of a busy intersection. I was told that it may be the throttle position sensor. Does this sound correct and does it need to be replaced?
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Went to install my intake last night, got everything in and together, started up the car and it idled just fine. Backed it out of the garage, put it in drive and had no throttle response. I was only able to coast. I did some research and tried replacing the fuse, cleaning the battery terminals and took the K&N intake out and replaced it back to stock. Still no change and still have the check engine light on.
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I have the SE model and the only button i have is the traction control on/off button. I looked through the menu in the gauge cluster and I come across a "Eco mode indicator" on/off option. I turned it on and now the eco mode light engages when i drive.... I also noticed that the throttle response has been way numbed down and changes gears late. So basically the "indicator light" options is ACTUALLY the "eco mode".... why don't we have a button for this?
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I have a 2004 2.4 liter camry .
When I first started the car it hesitated a bit but,it was very cold. I went to give it a shot of gas but had no pedal response . I shut the car off gave the gas pedal a few whacks and it worked fine .
On the way home the car worked fine for about 30 km , just before I got home the pedal had no response again, shut the car off , started it and drove home .
The next day it was worse , so I put it on a scanner ,the scans said bad throttle position sensor (tps) and also a few codes for throttle body valve sticking or bad signal .
I tried the easy fix first and changed the gas pedal with sensor , same thing , then I changed the throttle body itself , same thing, then went a installed a computer (ecu) and that won't even start the car .
My ecu 89661-06a0, replaced it with 89661-06a2.
The car will start on all 4 cyl and idle high for a few sec then drop like normal , once the idle hits 8k rpm the car is only fires on 2 cylinders 2 and 3 , (changed then swapped coils no difference) as its idling on 2 cylinders and I press the gas pedal it will rev to about 2k rpm and run on all 4.
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Anybody have any issues with this? I have a week old r-line and had the epc light come on, turbo seems to spool heavily with little throttle input and seems a bit sluggish.
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I have a 2003 Jetta 2.0 with the drive by wire throttle and I've been having some problems with it lately.
When on the highway (at a constant speed) sometimes it's almost like you take your foot off the accelerator pedal, then when you go to press it more, nothing happens, until you pump it a few times, it works again. This sounds like an electrical problem to me, not fuel or spark, because it's not sputtering at all, it just ignores your accelerator input. Is the "throttle module" a serviceable part?
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2002 camry. The car will not accelerate. The throttle body makes a clicking sound when pedal is depressed.
So.. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts in it. In the mean time located a spare throttle body from a 2003 from a local yard. The old throttle body has a part number 22030-28030 and the replacement has a part number 22030 0H010. The replacement throttle body wouldn't even move when the pedal was depressed.
I put the old one back on.. and now it doesn't click anymore but the car in Park only revs to 2000 rpm's. Its not sticking or having any mechanical issue.
I checked the parts site for Toyota and the replacement is the new number. Superseded. Does the throttle body after replacement need to be reprogrammed? Or whats the deal. I wish I was more Toyota literate when it comes to this.
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I recently took a long drive, and on 2 occasions, I heard the engine revving up when just simply cruising steadily at 70-80mph with little throttle input. I checked the LCD screen drive-train diagram, and there's no indicated of the engine turning during the revving. The car does not accelerate during the revving. Happens say for 10 - 20 seconds each time. To stop the revving, I simply give it a bit of throttle. I'm not on Cruise Control. Its a strange feeling, and I hope this isn't connected to the runaway Prius syndrome.
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Mark IV GTI. Neuspeed intake, chip, exhaust. The situation is...
When driving enthusiastically, harder, and sportingly, the car runs beautifully!
When driving normally, such as highway cruise or lower speeds with a consistent throttle input, the power will cut-out. Then the max boost pressure will be approximately 3 psi until the key is cycled. Then normal chipped operation resumes. Since it is difficult to drive hard all the time, this circumstance comes up often.
There is a new N75 recently installed. The situation does NOT set off the check engine light.
I have noticed according to the boost gauge readings, it tends to happen between 10 inHg to 0 psi. Above or below that, don't recall it happening.
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Well again my celly has died. I was driving down the road listening to some tunes when i noticed all of a sudden i had no throttle response and when I turned down the music my engine had cut out. Well i tried to start it back up and it was a no go. I tested for spark and I am getting nothing, I replaced the main relay and the distributor. I have new plug wires and NGK spark plugs in. This is my main source of transportation so any leads would be amazing. I have a 91 Celica ST with the 1.6 4AFE.
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I want to get rid the delayed throttle response on my 01 B5.5 passat V6. I've heard of this "Sprint Booster" product, which seems like it works, although it kills your throttle modulation abilities. I was looking into the Unitronic chip, its supposedly gives 16HP .
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My accelerator is very "slowpoke", anything I can do?
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We love our Touareg, but one things plagues our truck. There is a terrible lag in throttle response. We press the pedal down some, nothing, press some more, little to nothing nothing (like it is starting to crawl), press some more and ZOOM - the truck takes off. Kinda hard to drive like that... Is this expected behavior or is there a programmer to fix it? We have an 06 V8 and have not had any luck finding one so far.
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I am leaving from a meeting with my business partner and taking a left turn at about 10mph and very light throttle due to a rough road. All of the sudden I've got nothing. No throttle response and my car starts chugging bad. Then I see the EPC light on. I shut the car off as it sounds like I have only 2 cyls firing. start her back up and boom, normal again. No power loss, no lights, nothing. I immediately thought water pump. not the case though obviously. From what I can tell the EPC will come on for multi misfires. but for it to come on that suddenly for no apparent reason and then just be fine when I shut off and restart, I would assume this may be an ecu or coil issue.
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