Camry :: Low Idle RPM On 2003 Toyota
Jan 23, 2013
I have a 2003 4-cyl. Was running OK til starter died. Changed the starter, now it starts fine, but has idle problems similar to a dirty IAC. Sounds a lot like this thread: Low idle rpm problem on 2003 Toyota Camry: How I solved it
Haven't tried that fix yet. I was wondering if there anything else I could consider, due maybe to disconnecting the battery causing computer problems or something like that?
So I decided to run it for a while, thinking maybe the computer needed some more data. Idling about 100, but driving OK (around the block) but definitely not right.
Then the check engine light came on; I need to pull the code of course but need to borrow a code reader.....
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cyclinder with about 85k miles, for the past few months I've noticed that it has not been idling at 800-900 rpm with a hot engine, but instead it was idling around 500-600rpm. Not really knowing what was wrong, I went through the following process of elimination.
1. New Spark plugs - no change
2. Air filter and oil change - no changes
3. Coincidentally found my upper torque strut mount had a crack in the rubber so I replaced the torque strut mount and 2 lower motor mounts - no changes
4. Seafoamed the intake vacuum hose and gas tank - no changes
5. Checked oxygen sensors (the check engine light was not on)
6. FINALLY did some homework online and someone with a similar problem was suggested to clean out the sensor in the throttle body with carb cleaner - Problem solved!
Here is a verbal summary of how I did it:
1. Make sure the engine is cool because it is in an awkward area so you don't wanna get burned
2. Remove the top half the air filter box and disconnect the electrical and other rubber hoses so that the plastic/rubber intake manifold can come out easily
3. Disconnect the intake manifold, it's basically the non-metal tubing
4. In the throttle body assembly (the first metal component you will encounter after the intake manifold), you will see the "hinge door", swing it open and you will see a pencil erased sized hole toward the back end, use a flash light to see.
5. I used the handle from a hair of needle nose pliers to hold the "hinge door" open while I pointed my straw from the carb cleaner at the pencil sized hole where I suspect the sensor is located and give it a few quick spurts of carb cleaner (caution! Make sure your straw is secure before spraying because you don't to lose your straw down the throttle assembly!)
6. Wipe dry with clean cloth and give it a few minutes to evaporate, replace everything and fire up the engine (it might take a few cranks to get the car to fire up). Warm up the engine and take it out for a spin to see if it has resolved your idle RPM problem
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I have a 2004 Toyota Camry XLE with the 2.4 Engine. When I am driving the car it runs fine. When I stop the Idle goes way down if the AC is Running. What could be causing this problem?
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My 2001 toyota camry is great but has an intermittent, annoying problem no one can diagnose or correct. If I drive for a while at top highway speed (say 65mph) and then have to come to a stop (to pay toll or stop light) I get a very rough idle and then the car stalls. Have had new plugs, wires, coil, radiator already done to solve problem. Check engine light never comes on. Can also drive lengthy trip and it doesn't happen.
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Our 2002 Camry is in very good condition with ~75k miles. The other day we went to start the car up and it wouldn't turn over. The car would turn a couple of times and then start clicking. We jumped the car and I hopped in to take it to our local mechanic. I instantly noticed during the entire trip to the mechanic that the idle was very slow and chugging. Like it wanted to die anytime I was stopped.
I got to the mechanic and pulled in the lot. The car died. However, I was able to start it up again with no issues. A day later I get a call from the mechanic telling me that they had no issues starting the car whatsoever. They said the battery was a little weak so they replaced it (it was the original battery). I was also told that I might consider changing the spark plugs in the near future. Otherwise they said the car was running great.
After getting the car home I am once again noticing the low/chugging idle. It doesn't seem anywhere near as bad as before, but it is there sometimes.
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I have a 2008 Toyota Camry SE with the 2.4 engine and auto trans. If I'm stopped and in drive the engine feels as if it's going to stall, the entire car "shutters". The tach reads between 700 & 800 but if I place the gear selector into either neutral or park it becomes "glass" smooth, I even have to look at the tach to see if the engine is still running! In neutral or park the tach still reads 700-800 rpm and the A/C is always switched off.
I've had it to 2 different Toyota dealers and yesterday to my regular mechanic. 1st dealer said to disconnect the battery and bring everything back to default positions...no difference, battery was off for 35 minutes. 2nd dealer said to have the throttle body cleaned, which I did...no difference. A bit of background with the vehicle, I've had it since new, I drive 170 hiway miles per day, I use Shell branded fuel, oilchanges always at 5,000 miles, dealer serviced since new.
So yesterday my mechanic checked everything, engine mounts (OK), any error codes (none) cylinder compression (all within spec) spark plugs (OK except for 1 so I asked him to change them all), he installed 4 NGK iridium plugs and guess what...it still shutters & vibrates!!
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2002 Toyota Camry
2.4 V4
My car has developed a rough idle when stopped and when accelerating. When I got the CEL, I had the codes read at Advance Auto.
The codes are P0301, P0302, P0303, P1349.
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Took this car for scheduled maintenance, tuneup on 12/19. AFTER the tuneup, it started shaking when in idle or going slowly. Took it back 1/5, they confirmed it was misfiring, checked a computer code, replaced one of the coils. The misfiring went away but returned, worse than ever, last week (early Feb).
I read somewhere that replacing coils for misfiring can be just treating the symptom, not the cause. What should I do now?
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Since having my engine replaced with a newer used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
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1992 camry 4 cylinder ... Since having my engine replaced with a used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
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My toyota will not idle. The last time this happened, it needed a new battery. The idle is controlled by the battery. The alternator doesn't kick in untill 1500 to 2000 rpms. The battery checks out OK this time. It's an 03 4cyl.
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I replaced my engine that had 155,000 miles with a newer used one with about 30,000 miles. since the swap my gas mileage is down by one third or more. Everything else seems fine except that my cold start idle is up to 2000rpm's until it drops to normal within 3 minutes.
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When I start my '03 Corolla its idle speed is around 1200 and later after driving for a few miles it settles down to around 700. Other than that it starts well and runs smoothly. I tried to back off the idle adjustment screw and found out that the screw was barely touching the stop. In older models I used to be able to fix or repair the cold idle in engines with a carburetor, but am totally clueless regarding fuel injectors. This condition also happens when I start the car during the middle of Texas summer (100+ deg).
The car has 123,000 miles. I have not ever changed the plugs, but as i mentioned the engine starts and runs smoothly. As expected, the idle speed responds well whenever the air conditioner is turned on. The engine temperature comes to the mid gauge as always after driving a mile or so. No engine check lights come on. The car always passes the annual smog inspection.
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I am working on a 2003 toyota matrix 1zz-fe automatic.
Replaced engine ran good for 20 miles, rough idle as if vacuum leak but no vacuum leaks to be found. If I disconnect and plug the vacuum hose that pulls from the air intake is smooths out and runs good.
Some reading suggests that it is the idle air control any?
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I have a 2003 camry 4 cyl Idle seems to be a little low. What it should idle at with ac on.
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I am buying a Toyota Echo that the engine shakes on Idle and the shaking increase a bit when the AC is On ....
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Title tells the story....also it seems that sometimes it does this when the brake pedal is depressed -- since it is a manual 5-speed, tho., often the brake pedal is not depressed at stoplights, etc. So, 2003, four-cyl., as I said, manual trans.
It's my husband's. He has been gone. I am driving the car for him while he is away. The car seems to have had this rough/low idle (according to the tach) with the A/C on for at least a couple of years. Idles O.K. if the A/C is not on.
He returns tonight. And, I have to pick him up at the Portland, Oregon Airport.
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My 2003 Toyota Camry has over 100k miles. I believe the previous owner never changed the transmission fluid because it look black and smell burnt. I took it to an auto shop for them to drop the pan, change the transmission fluid and filter. How do I know if changing my transmission fluid and filter resurrected or killing my transmission?
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Camry 2003 XLE. Stopped @ store yesterday turned off lights locked car. Came out lights on battery dead. Portable charger started it right up. Drove home 2 minutes shut off car started right up. Went to Advanced Auto they tested and said bad battery. Went to repair ship 2 get second opinion they ran test twice that said battery and charging system OK. Said corroded posts issue. They cleaned hooked battery up and car wouldn't idle. They ran test again now said both battery and alternator bad. They also checked computer for error codes and nada. Upon advice from Toyota dealer drove around for an hour and gradually was getting better. FYI car died at least 10 times when idling during drive but started right up. Parked car and left idling with AC, lights, etc all on. Checked a couple times still running. Went out 15 minutes later car off battery again dead.
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I have Toyota camry 2003 v6 and power steering needs to be flushed. How to flush the power steering.
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The particulars are 2003 Camry, 4 cyl, manual trans. When it gets to be 90 degrees or hotter outside, the car hiccups when accelerating through 2800 rpm. That is the most common scenario. Pretty much any gear and the problem gets worse the hotter to outside air. It never throws a code or check engine light. It doesn't stall although it feels like an instantaneous loss of ignition. I can set the cruise control and it will periodically happen when driving through the desert. It repeats as often as it wants to....no overall pattern, uphill or flat, no difference. Dealer says nothing is wrong since it won't throw a code. No issue in the winter, only hot summer driving.
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