Camry :: Loud Scraping / Grinding Noise - Jammed Brakes Or Transmission?
Feb 13, 2013
I just bought this camry recently, it's an 2008 SE 4-cylinder with about 95k on it. Everything is fine on the car with the exception of one thing. Whenever I start it after a prolonged period of it being off, say in the morning or sometimes even having it off for an hour and then starting it again, when I start it, a loud grinding/scrapping noise comes from the front of the car.
This noise lasts for a good 30-60 seconds and as the car picks up speed it disappears. It just happens whenever I start it. Now I'm not sure that if the brakes or jammed or is it something to do with the transmission. I mention the transmission because during the drive, the car seems under a lot of pressure as if towing a large trailer and has trouble accelerating. At times when going downhill, it actually is slowing down as opposed to picking up speed and as soon as I let off the gas the speed drop from significantly.
I know this isn't normal because I used to an 2005 Camry LE 4-cylinder. So I know how the engine and transmission behave.
I took it the dealer recommended mechanic and he said that everything is fine. He's a nincompoop really. I took it to my mechanic and he said that the axle and bearing need to be changed on the passenger side and just the axle on the drivers side. My mechanic is a family friend and is skilled in his trade so I know he's not trying to shaft me.
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I have a 1995 850. About a year ago, I suddenly had a loud grinding noise coming from my brakes. It only happened in hot weather and when the brakes seemed to be hot. Also, it only happened when I was coming to a final stop, like the last 10-20 feet. I took my car to my "trusted" mechanic. They diagnosed it as being my front pads and rotors, so they replaced them (they also felt the front vibrating.) NOW the brakes seemed okay after I got it back the second time (no loud grinding noise.)
When I got the car back, the weather was starting to cool since it was nearing winter. My winter weather is like 70's during the day, and during this time, there was no grinding. It's now starting to get hot again, and sure enough, that grinding noise is back, but not as bad as the first time a year ago. Again, it is only when the brakes heat up and I come to a final stop (the last 10-20 feet.) If I break lightly, it won't make that noise, and it takes me driving for about 15 minutes for the grinding noise to start (it sounds like metal on metal and loud.) Also, I don't feel the vibration like I did a year ago. I only drive the streets, and have not been on the freeway since I got the new brakes.
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I have a 2004 F150 4x4 Fx4 supercrew with 5.4 engine and 46,000 miles. For the past three weeks now I have a periodic Grinding /scraping sound that seems to be coming from the front passenger's side of the truck. It can come on with light driving and braking in town or start while driving 70 mph down the interstate without even touching my brakes. The thing is I just about always have to come to a complete stop to make it go away. 10 Minutes later it comes again. It's loud enough for everyone around me to start staring at my truck. Sounds like metal scraping concrete and gets deeper as I slow down and when I fully press my brake pedal it goes "curchunk and the sound is gone for a while. I thought maybe my caliper was sticking or maybe the truck is trying to go into 4x4. One friend even suggested me to check the dust cover behind the brake for rocks.
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Driving in snow, braking in this car routinely handles poorly and brakes make a loud grinding sound. It sounds like the front brakes. I just had a brake job from a trusted dealer. I read the thread here on the Honda Accord that reported the same sort of brake problem. The issue is the brakes, NOT tires as that thread suggests. Braking strength is greatly impaired under these conditions. I am very apprehensive about driving in snow, and ready to trade in what is otherwise a fine car.
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I had a super loud metallic scraping and clanking noise when I was backing out of my driveway the other night. It was so loud I though my exhaust was dragging or something.
It turned out to be a rock trapped between the heat shield and rear brake disk. I pressed the heat shield away from the disk a bit and the rock fell out. It's kind of crazy that such a little rock caused such a loud sound.
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Chasing down a grinding noise. I have done a lot of research but nothing quit matches up with what I am hearing.
I have a 1979 F250 4x4. A few days ago I put the truck in reverse and as I was backing up it was like the drivetrain locked up. After that I put the truck in gear and started on my way. As I got up in speed a pretty loud grinding noise was coming from the tranny. 2nd and 3rd gear aren't bad but when I get up to 40+mph it sounds like crap. If I push in the clutch the grinding is still there. While driving I also put the transfer case in neutral, kept the tranny in gear, pushed in the clutch and the grinding stopped.
I also took the lid off, inspected the forks and thoroughly cleaned the inside but noise still continues.
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We have a 2006 Acura MDX, 96K miles, well maintained. It has started making a disturbing scraping/grinding/humming noise from under the car, driver's side. It's random, sporadic, usually for 3 to 5 seconds; doesn't seem to be related to speed, braking or turning; sometimes barely perceptible, sometimes very loud. It drives fine. Wheel bearing maybe?
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When braking, my car seems to break/slow down just fine...but right before the car comes to a complete stop, i hear a, dare i say, scraping/grinding noise. I found it odd. When going really slow and braking, it does it too. Otherwise, I'd say the brakes work ok. It doesn't make the sound every time when coming to a stop, but i'd say more times then not.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Camry LE with 106K miles. It?s getting a little clunky but works perfectly. I do regular maintenance like oil changes every 3 or 4 months, breaks, tires. Last year one day during very have down pour rain I noticed something banging/hitting under the seats while driving in this heavy rain & car losing power (slowing down). Something (I am guessing the exhaust pipe? hitting the body. The more gas I gave to gain speed the violent the banging. I slowed down to almost 15MPH but never stop & the car started to work normal. It happened 3 or 4 times before I got home. I check all fluids etc? All normal. Drove later in sunny, cloudy & even in light rain the car runs perfectly fine. Then it happened again in heavy rain.
I told my car mechanic & he checked all even tightened the main belts (not timing belt). No change. Now it?s so predictable when ever its rains heavy & even slushy snow/rain. Lately it started to not only lose power but sometime instead of banging I hear grinding noise when pressing the gas paddle. Some time banging followed by grinding but every time after slowing down the car recoups power and I drive normally. It never ever happens in dry day. My wife who drives ?Buick Century 2004? thinks my car is dyeing and should buy a new. When I describe this situation to any mechanic they points to transmission & want to perform brain surgery to diagnose.
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Here is a link to the audio [URL] .... It makes this noise, whether I'm at idle or running, granted it seems to be happen more when moving, its quite intermittent as it stops sometimes. I replaced the serpentine belt a month ago, so it can't be that. Its coming from the front of the engine. Sounds almost like the fan bearings or something below that is scraping. I've turned off the heater and it still does it, but the fan is spinning all the time, so I'm not sure what is going on.In the background you can hear cars going by on the overpass above, but I'm focused on the grinding noise. Car is not moving, its in park and makes the noise when moving also, with gas or at idle.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Camry SE with just under 51,000 miles on it. Every time I put the car into reverse and accelerate to apprx. 2-4 MPH then apply the brakes, I hear a loud popping noise, and it sounds like it is coming from the passenger front wheel. Slight noise from the drivers front as well. This doesn't happen in Drive, only in reverse at a low rate of speed. My father and I have taken the front wheels off and tested it, seems to be a motor mount, curious if this seems rational or common in a newer car.
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When on the highway, there is an occasional scraping/grinding almost a windy noise from the front left of the car. Happens most at high speeds when going over bumps. it's a Toyota matrix 2003 with 163k miles. We're on a car trip and are wondering if we need to address this now or if it can wait a few days.
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This is a 2001 Prius - car runs great and the AC is fine. However, driving down the road, when the AC is turned on there is a noticeable scraping/ticking noise - sounds like it coming from under the hood.
With the car parked, and the ignition ON, but without the gas engine running, there is no scraping noise.
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Recently my 2001 Solara started emitting a scraping noise from one of the rear wheels. Mechanic says its a frozen caliper, and suggested a complete brake job (rotar, pads, etc). My question is, I've got reasonable skills, by buddy has major skills when it comes to working on cars, is that something that a shade-tree mechanic can safely do ? Also, as its a frozen caliper, does that imply I need to replace the caliper, or could it have frozen due to the pads ?
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In February 2014 I purchased a 2011 Honda CRV. I often travel and am gone for about a week. Every time I come back the rear brake are rusted. They have a loud thumping and grinding sound. I immediately took the car back to Honda dealership (2 time) both times they 'shaved' the roaters. I then contacted Honda headquarters to report the issue. They told me to deal with the dealership and take it to a local mechanic for other opinions. Car Talk will be my second opinion. Honda dealership told me that this is just the way it is. This is my third Honda, I have NOT had this problem before.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai elantra gls with 190,000 miles on it. I have a scraping noise coming from the transmission when the clutch is not pressed in, the noise is present whether I am in gear or just in neutral. If I press the clutch in than the noise will completely go away. I have searched and found that these symptoms usually mean its an internal transmission problem and not just the throw out or pilot bearing.
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We discovered that our 99 mercury Mountaineer had bad rotors. last night I hooked up a trailer and was going to work with a friend move a couch when I heard a loud grinding sound. I turned around and determined it was coming from the wheel. I purchased a new set of pads and started to change the pads. In the process I found a broken sway bar connector. I changed this as well. It still felt bad and there was a sound when I braked.
I took it to pep boys for a free brake inspection. They pointed out that the rotors needed to be replaced. I did not let them do it because I can not afford that right now. The car is a secondary not a daily driver. My wife says we shouldn't drive it at all. I say we can still drive it and expect I will have to replace the brake pads sooner than normal and replace the rotors when we can, later. My wife insists we will do more damage if we drive it as it is. I say what's the difference we need to replace the rotors anyway.
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I have a 6-cyl, 2000 Camry that is making a scraping noise from the right rear brake. After driving it for a while I put my hand near the rotor and it was hot. The other side wasn't. I changed the pads and rotors yesterday and it's still making the noise. I'm guessing that there's something wrong with the caliper. Do I need to buy a new one? Can I rebuild the current one?
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I am having a major issue with my truck. I replaced all of my brakes about 8 months ago. Replaced everything. Rotors, calipers, pads etc. About 3 weeks ago I pushed on the brakes and they locked up and I heard a loud pop and then grinding. I pulled my wheel and my brake on the right rear had broke the 2 mounting bolts and fell off. So I put the brake back on thinking I hadn't tightened the bolts.
Drove about 7 miles and around the 10th time I stepped on my brakes it did the same thing. So I replaced the brakes again. Calipers caliper mount and pads. I have been driving it 2 weeks and all of a sudden same thing happened. I push on the brakes the right rear locked up and snapped the bolts again. So now I replaced everything rotor calipers etc. Greased everything up and no problems for a day. Do I need to replace the brake mount and where do I get that?
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I have 2013 Hyundai Elantra GL which is not even 2 years old. a month ago I took my car for auto detailing to a cheap place to save some money. I noticed that after the auto detailing some of the buttons would not work on the steering wheel and the radio would turn on and off by itself. I also could not turn on the front seat heating ( which resolved by itself).
I also had to change the rear routers and front break pads due to pass out of province inspection in Edmonton. Yesterday the ESC started blinking and the car would not pick up any speed above 60 km/hr. This issue was resolved in the morning by turning the ESC off.
I took my family and took the highway and the issue started again, I turned the ESC again as soon as I pushed the breaks a bit , the system JAMMED my breaks ( THIS WAS SO SCARY) considering I was at 100 km/hr and my wife and 3 kids were with me.
I called the dealer and dropping the car off but I thought people should know of this issue , the car steered right and left and handling it was so hard. My family is so scared to even sit in this car anymore.
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I've got an 03 Camry (211K mi.) with front and rear disk brakes. I have a pulsing/grinding sound from the rear brakes. I think the pulse is from the run-out of the disk/rotor. Took it to a Toyota dealership last year and they pulled apart, cleaned and lubricated the parking brake assemblies on both sides. Brakes ran quiet for about 3 months and then the noise came back. When the climate is dry, it makes all kinds of noise. When it's humid (above 80%) or raining it's quiet. It still stops good and there is no pulling to one side or another, so I figure my calipers aren't leaking.
I bought the car used a little over 3 years ago and don't know when the last brake job was done. I was going to replace the front and rear disks and pads and inspect the calipers for cracked cups or seals. I was talking to an old school mechanic and he said something about opening the bleeder line(s) when I compressed the cups or I'd damage the ABS control. I looked at my manual and it said nothing about this. I'm not looking to replace the ABS controller because of a silly mistake on my part. Looking for info about cracking the bleeder when compressing a caliper??
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