Search for this problem gets lots of hits. >>IF<< it only happens on day's first startup, that it is actually normal for a car like my 2002 Camry LE 4 Cylinder.
Just wanted to hear some opinions, not about a constant problem but if it only happens on first startup and then no smoke is coming out of the exhaust pipe on subsequent starts.
Here is a video of my problem: [URL] ....
I have a 03 Camry, that has started to release white Smoke from the exhaust only on start-up for about a week now. After that I don't see anything not even if i rev up the car.. Only on start up.. WHY??
View 13 Repliescamry smoke on startup is a leaking fuel injector seal, not an oil leak.
View 4 RepliesMy 06' Camry has 141k on it and when I start it up in the morning it smokes and I have been told it is the valve stem seals, and since I'm pretty handy with a wrench. I was wondering all the tools and steps there are to replacing them and if you actually have to take the head off or not?
View 14 Replies2009 Camry 4cyl
I changed my PCV valve over a month ago and still have white smoke coming form exhaust on startup. The smoke goes aways as always, after that the smell is gone and the car runs like normal. The smell of the smoke is not really sweet as if it was coolant leaking, but its not exactly smelling like burnt oil either (I've had cars that burnt oil real bad and it smelled different than this camry).
I've been keeping an eye out on my oil and coolant levels, both seem to be ok. I refilled my coolant tank to full about 2.5 months ago as it was very low and its still almost at full right now. My oil after about 4k miles on the dipstick measures right in the middle of the min and max dots, which it has been for as long as I've owned the car. So these levels are ok I think.
Now, I've read somewhere a while back that after changing the PCV valve or rather after taking the old one off that there still will be some residue to be burnt off. A way to get rid of that is to create a makeshift vacuum by plugging one end of the hose (the one that attaches to PCV valve) and leaving the PCV valve off while running the engine, putting some kind of cloth or similar over where the PCV valve should go to collect all the burnt stuff, thus cleaning the remainder out. Is it possible that this might be the a solution?
I have a 2002 2.4L Camry with 120K miles. I plan to keep it for another 10 years so want to get it in better shape. All I've done so far is air filters and changing the oil. I did let oil changes go way too long a few times then at 70K miles started emitting blue smoke only at startup after sitting overnight. It looks like valve stem seals so the engine uses oil now but it's tolerable and I really need to avoid spending big bucks unless there's a breakdown.
I've read about a procedure to replace the valve stem seals without removing the head using compressed air, but am a bit scared to try it for fear I will get in over my head.
I'm planning on getting up to date on all recommended inspections, changing spark plugs, coolant, air filter and cabin filter and plan on changing the oil from conventional over to 10w30 synthetic w/ subsequent 5,000 mile intervals from now on. I'm in a better financial situation now so can afford parts but want to try to do all labor myself unless a mechanic is necessary for something extremely important or critical.
Got a weird issue with my 2014.5 with 10k on it today, V6/2GRFE. On Wednesday I checked oil, it was at full drove it to Virginia to pick up a car and I followed it back 150 miles home, looked fine. Sat Thursday, let a family member drive it to work Friday, was fine. Saturday I drove it about 40 miles, was fine. Sunday I moved it around the driveway, was fine.
Today I started it and got a huge cloud of gray smoke out the back. Smoke continued while idling. Shut it off, got a family member to look at it (and make a video of it for future record). Basically on startup it lets out of a big puff of smoke (worse than my old V8 truck with leaky stem seals), then smokes lightly as it idles. Revved the engine and another puff came out, and the smoking did not stop. At this point I called up my dealer and wound up having it towed in as after about 3-5 minutes of running it was still smoking, as I'm under the impression burning synthetic oil is very bad for the emissions control system. Before leaving I let it cool back off, checked the oil and found it about halfway to 2/3rds between full and add on level ground. I did not let it warm all the way up to see what would happen over concern for damage.
Car is sitting at the dealer now, the manager said he'd try to see if they could get to it tomorrow (do have an appointment for Thursday); probably feel bad after the paint fiasco with the last one. Engine ran fine, seemed to be getting good fuel economy this tank, no CELS. I get that 1qt/1000 miles from break down/very minor burning is normal, but not this much smoke and nearly half a quart in 300 probably is not.
I'm also preparing for this to be difficult to pin down as first hand experience tells me oil burning can be a pain sometimes to troubleshoot, but my 91 Camry with 225k on it doesn't smoke like this, and typically valve stem seal seepage (which would be unacceptable though not serious) goes away quickly and presents much later in engine life. Not cold at all and had an oil burning smell to it for sure, but anyone have any normal expectations for what it could be? My 2012 2GR had 34k on it with zero oil use, burning or issues. If they say nothing my plan is to show them a video, and see what they say.
Pretty frustrated as I was liking this car more than my 2012; felt like it ran a little better, got a little better gas mileage, and road/drove a bit nicer too (probably the newer tires). Also had run into zero issues, whereas in the same span of ownership my 2012 already had one paint repair, a recall, and a brake light switch. Just had an oil change in June too at the dealer, verified the level was fine when I got it back, no leaks either.
Alright. 99 Ford F-250 4x4 Ext Cab 287,000 miles. I know she is getting a little long in the tooth but this issue is new within the last month. It does seem to be better when it has been plugged in. On start up I smoke out the neighborhood. Blueish/White smoke, also sounds like it's missing on a couple injectors. Doesn't matter if you cycle the glowplugs a good long time. No luck. Glow plugs are 1 1/2 years old along with injector o rings. Only thing new is I changed from Rotella T-6 to Delo 5W40 Syn, but it was doing it before the switch as well. I tested my glowplugs relay and that is working fine. Could I have lost a UVCH? Fuel filter six months ago or so.
View 14 RepliesI recently had the Blue Spring installed on my 04 X. After having it installed I still noticed a lot of hesitation on take off, and after a few seconds of trying to take off it kicks out a large cloud of black smoke and away she goes. The problem is very noticed when at the bottoms of hills it seems powerless and makes a wierd noise from the drive side of the engine bay, until I press the pedal enough to make it downshift then comes the large cloud of black smoke and she climbs up. All I know is I'm getting worse fuel economy then I should get and something just doesn't feel right when driving the X. The truck doesn't feel like it missing at all so I don't think it would be injectors especially as They are all brand new and less than 6 months old.
View 12 RepliesMy DD just developed a head gasket leak. I've been noticing a coolant smell for a few days and today saw lots of white smoke from the tail pipe. I figured this is where my coolant was going and sure enough there is coolant coming from the driver's side head. I've ordered the gaskets and new bolts, but need the install.
I think mostly what I will need is the intake and head bolt torque and sequence. I will need to take a few days off work to get it done. Truck is a 2002 F150 with a 5.4L engine.
'90 maxima 245,000 miles.....over the course of a few days all three rear injectors (1,3,5) are stuck open and dumping fuel....lots of white smoke and fuel smell. Mechanic told me to replace the fuel injectors, that they are bad. I do not believe this since i recently replaced the injectors. I confirmed the Ohm on the injectors(10-14) and it is getting a spark....i heard that it could be the wiring harness is grounding out? how do i test this? could my ECU be bad?
View 6 Replies1999 7.3 misses when starting it cold (first start of the day even when outside temps were around 20 deg C ). It has a noticeable miss and lots of white smoke. After warming up it runs perfect. I changed the GPR and tested all glow plugs, 3 bad and one weak one all replaced. Now that it is cold out it still misses when first started, even if left plugged in.
It will start and run for approx 3 seconds perfectly smooth then it starts to miss and idle speed slows down. on one occasion I went to start it after sitting 10 plus hours plugged in and it started then missed and slowly died. Would not re start, It was firing and smoking but not enough to get going again. Went back the next day and it started and ran fine for a few weeks. Did the same thing to me yesterday, started and then petered out and died and this time it will not re start after 2 days of trying on a couple occasions. I changed out the CPS with no luck.
7.3 auto, starts and idles OKAY, drives fine if you have a light foot but trying to go faster than 50mph or more than 2000 rpm and the whole thing has an anxiety attack. Starts sputtering and popping, lots of grey smoke when it runs rough rough, let off the throttle and it MIGHT behave nicely again.
New lift pump, cleaned the pickup tube, fuel bowl fills nice and fast, just had my edge attitude juice tuner removed since it was causing similar issues that went away for the last 2 months, changed my IPR and CPS (had a mechanic test everything when the tuner was taken out, all injectors buzzed good, sensors good)
When this first happened after the initial problem with the tuner was resolved, it did throw the CEL, but I have since been able to get it to come back on, and my buddies OBD2 scanner wasn't even registering my truck when I hooked up... Dare I say PCM is to blame?
Just bought a 02 f-250 7.3 with 115k miles. A couple days after I bought it I noticed a lot of white smoke on cold starts for about 20-30 sec at 50 degree temperature. So I tested the GPR which ended up being bad a replaced with the one that is double in size(name escapes me atm) and also did the 50 cent mod to keep the through-valve cover harness from losing connection since both sides were lose.
After that the temp warmed back up and it would only blow a "puff" of white smoke. The past two days it has gotten down to 30-32 and the truck has a rough time starting. Cranks fine but it's almost like it's getting choked or flooded then it will blow smoke for 3-4 minutes after it starts. The truck does have a FASS fuel system on it with stock injectors. Should I try to Ohm out the glow plugs again or where should I start trouble shooting?
So this morning, I stopped for fuel. My low fuel light had come on yesterday, so I planned on filling it up this morning. Swung through the local Safeway (my usual fill-up haunt) and threw 25 gallons of diesel into my Excursion. Truck started up right away, like always, pulled around in the parking lot, pulled into traffic, then got stopped at a red light. I noticed a slight unevenness in the idle for a couple of seconds, then the light turned green. Pulled out, truck accelerated a bit more labored than usual, and in my passenger's mirror, I looked back and saw some light greyish blue smoke.
The smoke progressively got heavier, power diminished, and I was no longer able to maintain speed with traffic. I pulled off onto a side road, shut the truck down, and scanned for pending codes. Nothing. So I hoped that it was just a gremlin, started the truck again, got tons of the same smoke, really rough, super clattery idle, and the engine wouldn't even accelerate in park. No hint of boost, nothing. So I turned the truck off, called a tow truck, and had her flat bed hauled home.
Background on the truck, roughly 150K miles, changed the fuel filters not too long ago (less than 7K on them), recent-ish oil change, but I was planning one for later this month. Truck is all but stock, only an aftermarket cold side intercooler tube. I recently replaced my EGR valve, less than a year ago, because it was stuck partially open, replaced it and the truck ran great after that.
I've been seeing some scary writeups for similar things, stuff involving cracked pistons, bad rings, engine teardowns, new engines required, things like that. For me, it just seems like a ridiculously convenient coincidence that the problem would happen immediately after refueling the truck. At this point, I'm planning on replacing both fuel filters and doing an oil change as preventive maintenance and as the easiest possible fix, but what else should I be looking at? Some posts suggest FICM, some suggest ICP sensor, some are saying my injectors may be shot.
Today I was riding along and all of a sudden I noticed a loss of power. I look in the rear view mirror and get into the pedal and a lot of black smoke. When I get to where I'm going and stop I noticed the idol was a little loopy. I never saw a check engine light. I have the Edge insight. I had two codes. P1000 OBD System readiness test not complete. P2290 ICP TO LOW.
When I would reset the codes the P1000 came back instantly every time. I parked the truck for about an hour. When I started it back up everything was normal. The power was back and no smoke. This happened two more times throughout the day. I have heard people describe a sticking EGR Valve causing these symptoms. Is that where I should start looking or is the ICP the culprit or something else?
Most had said theirs did it intermittently and got better after awhile... Mine does it every single time. I start the car. Usually after sitting for the day at work or overnight at home... Not sure which direction to go with this (or rather my hubby) to go. What would be checked first? turbo, fuel injectors, and valve seals...
View 2 RepliesSo, I had noticed copious amounts of smoke on startup a few weeks ago and took it to the dealer. They said turbo seals were bad and were going to replace. However, once they looked at it (and consulting with vw engineers) they concluded turbo was fine and that the ccv must be faulty. So, they replaced the valve and tube and returned the car to me last week.
Before I take the car back in and have them start pulling my engine apart I thought I would get input. It only smokes when cold, and doesn't appear to smoke while driving. No performance issues at all - runs awesome. Fluid levels are fine. Smoke doesn't really have a strong odor or oil or glycol.
My car burns oil on startup. Mostly when cold. However the attached vid was taken today when the car was warm. Does not burn oil any other time. It is definitely not water vapor - smoke is blue.
Dealership replaced pcv after inspecting the turbo and all was good. Now they aren't sure what it could be.
My research tells me valve guides/seals leaking oil into the head. I don't show any oil loss on the stick so it's not leaking a lot of oil, just enough to create a little big of smoke.
Question - is this a big deal? Do you occasionally see smoke on startup? I'm trying to figure out if I should press the issue with vw or just live with it - I really don't care about the smoke but don't want long term reliability or resale issues.
I've been googling for about 3 hours now, and no answers for the gassers, just diesels. When I start my excursion (v10) it pours white smoke for a while, then stops. It does this every time I start it no matter how far I go or how long it sits.
There is plenty of coolant in it and I've never had to top it off, so I don't think it is getting coolant in the cylinder. With that much smoke it wood definitely need coolant if that's what it was. Oil consumption is kind of high in my opinion, but the smoke smells rich.
My 95 Tahoe smokes bad on startup (coolant) and a little (oil) on accelerating from zero. There is also a large internal coolant leak. I just replaced the intake manifold gasket as it was the easier fix; didn't do anything. Does this mean it is definitely a head gasket? Anything I can do in the meantime until I have time to pull the heads?
View 1 Replies