Ive noticed while driving my 2k7 XLE 3.5L that when I brake moderately it is a very smooth transition until it lets up a little bit which gives me the feeling of losing control slightly. It is really weird to me that feeling of it "letting go" after it already was braking smoothly. When I brake hard it does NOT do that, which I find odd... Is it a normal occurrence for this particular ABS to act like that?
View 5 RepliesI have recently been hearing a clunking noise coming from the front end of my R while braking lightly to moderately at low speed. What this could be?
View 14 RepliesI have an 03 Camry LE I4 with about just under 100k miles. Recently, under semi hard braking at highway speeds, the steering wheel will shake quite a bit to the point that I don't feel safe braking hard. I initially thought the brake rotors were warped, but those were replaced less than 2 years ago somewhere around 80k miles. I've taken it to many shops and here are the verdicts they've given me:
1. Rear drums are warped which is the problem (I don't think so...)
2. Control arm bushings need replacement (coming from shop who did brake work before)
3. Ball joints need to be replaced
4. All rotors should be resurfaced
What should I do?
I am on my 3rd engine in this car (known issues unfortunately) and for the past few weeks have had problems with the engine feeling like it is quickly cycling through normal and 'losing pressure' at MPH over 40 when gas is going into the system. Mechanic replaced oil pressure sensor but problem recurred on next drive and AC cooling went out at the same time.
View 6 RepliesSometimes when I brake to come to a stop, my car loses power: the whole thing shudders, RPMs take a dive. It doesn't start immediately on braking. It starts when I am almost at a stop, but not at a full stop. If it's relevant, I generally brake quite gradually, starting several car lengths away. So there are several seconds between onset of braking and onset of power loss. It starts while the brake is depressed. It does not stop when I let up on the brake. It does stop when I depress the accelerator. If I am idling at a light, it might happen. If I am just going slow without braking, it doesn't happen. Braking is fine in all circumstances except coming to a full stop.
Details:'93 Mustang, 4-cyl, 2.3L, manual, fuel-injected
It's been doing this for years, actually, and yes, I've been just dealing with it instead of getting it checked out. Usually a little rev of the engine gets her through it. Last night, it actually stalled, several times in fact. It restarted, but it did take cranking it for a while for it to restart.
Now that I think about it, my battery might be up for replacement. It's probably around 7 years old, and the last 6 have been very light driving, maybe 3k per year. But like I said, this is an ongoing problem. What should I be thinking about besides the battery, and what is a mechanic likely to tell me?
I have a 2005 Auto Santa Fe and every now and again the ABS light keeps coming on and also the ABS kicks in during normal braking.
The car was serviced and all brakes changed last Aug. What may be causing the problem.
Car makes louder than normal regenerative braking (Hybrid Sound). Seems normal when braking at high speeds... then when the speed drops below 30mph the sound is noticeable louder. See Video for example sounds while braking (17, 35 and 50 seconds into the video are most notable).
[URL] ....
Car drives normal other than the regenerative braking sound... Car was involved in a front end accident. Damages were repaired and seem minor. Front Bumper cover, hood, Radiator, Fans, RF Fender. Front cross member and other frame areas look untouched.
My 99 Ranger pulls severely to the right under Normal braking, pulling the 30 amp ABS fuse stops the pulling but the ABS light is on on the dash.
View 1 Repliesfor the last three days, I had the big red master warning light come up four times during normal braking, also "Problem" was displayed on the LCD where "Add fuel" is displayed when fuel is low. But no error code showed on the OBD reader. I searched found that it might be related to 12V battery which I replaced two years ago.
2008 with 120K miles.
Truck is a '99 2WD with drum rear brakes. 81K miles. I rebuilt the rear brakes due to a leaking wheel cylinder. The old shoes were not completely gone, but were worn evenly - everything looked normal.
Not a professional wrench, but I've been re-doing my own drum brakes since the '60's, so it is not rocket science to me. Still, as a precaution, I did them one side at a time so as to have reference point, and also snapped a few cellphone pics just to be safe.
Replaced both wheel cylinders, all hardware, and of course the shoes. Gravity bled the cylinders first, followed by the old tried-and-true, wife in the driver's seat, "down-and-hold, now up" routine. Adjusted shoes to just contact drums lightly, and buttoned it up.
The problem is that I'm getting a violent chattering from the rear axle with either light or normal braking. The chattering is worse as the brakes warm up - shakes the whole truck. At first I thought I had a bad rear ABS sensor, but then I did a couple of stops just using the parking brake, and got the same chattering.
Now I've pulled the drums off to re-check. There is nothing loose, nothing out of place, nothing leaking, but there was a heck of a lot of brake dust in there and the lead shoes on both sides were noticeably more worn than the trailing shoes - and I've driven maybe 100 miles since the rebuild.
You can't reverse these shoes, since the trailing shoe has a peg to hold the automatic adjuster, so that is not the issue. The drums were turned less than 1000 miles ago, so I did not have them re-done at this point.
I had my "assistant" partly depress the brake pedal while I had the drums off to confirm that the cylinders were expanding both shoes, and they are.
So the climate control on my 2002 430 is starting to loose sections of the numbers.
Not a bunch but I fear that it is just a matter of time before they all go away.
I assume, not being a LCD engineer, that there really isn't much that can be done to fix my existing LCD but I thought I would ask the group hoping for a resolution other than replacing the LCD.
My truck is a 2004 F350 6.0 as with most of the ford diesels from this era it has hydro boot brakes.
Under normal braking the truck felt fine and the brakes behaved as they always have. However if you where to depress the brakes hard, as if making an emergency stop, the brakes would not lock up in the way they did when I bought the truck two years and 80,000km ago. The problem was slow to appear and at first I blamed it on the larger tiers I was running (stock 2012 F350 wheels and tires (yes the offset is wrong)) but after switching back to my stock wheels for the winter I knew that something was not right. It was something I could live with, it did not make the tuck unsafe it was just that it did not stop as well as I knew it could and this avowed me. I replaced the front and rear calipers and when that had no effect I swapped out the master cylinder this still made little difference.
I drove the company truck all of last month (2008 GMC 2500 Duramax) and when I got back in mine I realised that I had to chase down the problem. I did a lot of reading online and after thoroughly flushing and bleeding my brake system I narrowed my problem down to either the hydro booster or the power steering pump. The plan we came up with for diagnosing was:
1. Thoroughly inspect for PS/Hydro boost and brake fluid leaks following the procedure found here Hydro-Boost Power Assist Systems: Operation Diagnosis and Repair
1a. Consider bleeding the brakes as a bit of trapped air would cause your symptoms.
1.b Consider flushing the PS system. Some suggest this works with tough steering.
2. Have a shop check the PS pressure is within spec. (assuming this is cheaper than buying the tool or just replacing the pump) If it is low, replace the PS pump.
3. If PS pump is fine, or is replaced and the problem is still there, consider replacing the Hydro booster.
It is not super complete but it was a place to start. We checked for leaks and found nothing. The pedal would not sink under braking but would say firm meaning the brake system was free of leaks.
I began a rudimentary test of power steering pump. With the truck in the drive way I could easily turn the steering wheel however, applying the breaks about half way would make turning the wheel imposable. This led me to believe the power steering pump was starting to go. The next step would be to have the pump tested using a power steering pressure gage or take the truck to a shop to have it tested. I found the pressure gage to be more expensive then the new pump so went that way. With 350,000km on the truck I figured it was not a bad thing to do even if it turned out to not be the cause of the problem.
It is a bit tricky to get the power steering pump out but after pulling the radiator line under the truck I could drop the pump out the bottom. The new pump went back in the same way and after a full flush and bleed of the system it was time for a test. What a difference! The truck stops like the day I got it. If your symptoms are like mine I would recommend you check the power steering pump. If it is the problem it is a lot cheaper then replacing a master cylinder or calipers.
I was just thinking about this last night when driving home under heavy rain. It was nice to have it on the highway turns where there was heavy flooding and hydroplane possibilities, especially since I am used to 4 wheel drive in these conditions. I was wondering if I shouldn't be turning it off under normal conditions though? I know it's handy to do so if you are stuck in heavy snow but since the default is always on I wonder if there is any other gain to only using it when needed rather than only turning it off when needed?
View 26 RepliesWe have 2 trips coming up this summer (600 miles and 1400 miles), these will be my first long distance with the Prius.
Did anyone tested fuel economy using the cruise control in ECO vs NORMAL vs PWR ?
I have a 2008 Honda Pilot less than 80,000 miles on it. was just told by the dealer the control arm bushings need to be replaced. They put it on the lift for me and I saw what looks to be dry rot on the bushings. I am the original owner and it has not been abused .. all required service completed.
View 4 Replies today my 98 ranger 4.0 would love to have cruise control once again .
I have checked the obvious , fuses connectors etc. I know on my f250 they had an issue with the pressure sensor mounted on the brake master cylinder leaking , I did check that and not leaking yet . I can't even get the system to turn on. So my question to to the forum , is there a common issue with ranger cruise control that I am unaware of ?
Temp control is stuck, but when it reaches over 55 degrees or so, it goes back to normal. Have a very slight clicking sound/feel when it is normal. Toyota wants 10 hours labor up front.
View 1 RepliesI drive my prius mostly in city/suburbs with limited hwy time. I drive in a way to minimize battery use. I have no EV, top ECO zone ICE accelerations, coasting with no battery use, etc.
I recently noticed that battery fan kicked to moderately loud (a rare event in my driving) after several miles of hwy driving and later near 50 mph acceleration after exiting hwy. Flat terrain.
I traded in my 2015 for a 2016. I had the hesitation in my 2015 when moderately accelerating out of corners. So far in the last 1000 miles on my 2016, no hesitation.
View 2 RepliesI bumped my exhaust pipe where it connects to the muffler pipe. Its not completely loose but it makes noise and im losing mpg. Its pretty rusted, can i get that part welded?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 Camry 4cyl with 226k miles on it, the last couple of days I have noticed a strange rattle at 2500-3500rpm from the engine area, only when the car is in gear, no rattle in N or P. I have also noticed that the engine oil and coolant have been disappearing at an alarming rate, I drove 200 miles yesterday and it went from the FULL to LOW mark, during the same drive the coolant went from mid mark between full and low to below LOW. As well, I don't notice any leaks or pink crusts around the water pump, the belts and tensioners appear to be in good working order.
View 8 Replies