Camry :: Little Lurch And Small Jump In Rpms With Heat On
Nov 12, 2015
I have a 2003 4 cylinder automatic Camry with around 108,000 miles. The other day, with the heating on, I felt it little lurch as well as a small jump in rpms at times while rolling on idle. This seemed to occur right after a hissing sound stopped after it sounded, pretty quietly, from the rear of the car for a couple seconds. To me it seems like the kind of a lurch I sometimes get when turning off the AC, which makes sense because the AC turning off reduces strain on the engine.
It's definitely not some really bad problem and no lights are on, but something I'm a little worried about nonetheless.
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We have a 2006 Santa Fe Hyunda with 100,000 miles that when we hit 80 mph on the highway the rpms drop to zero and stay there. We just had the camshaft and crankshaft replaced. Why this is happening?"
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I have an '02 Camry XLE (1MZ-FE) with around 175k miles on it. I've never done any transmission maintenance on it until recently (I was one of those dopes who believed my mechanic when he told me that the fluid didn't ever need changing).
A couple weeks ago, I started noticing a bit of a lurch when I was driving. It wouldn't ever affect the RPMs or anything and it was only ever an instantaneous thing so I didn't let it bother me too much. About 3 weeks ago it started getting worse and rapidly deteriorated into a problem. The engine started doing it in idle and it would happen numerous times (sometimes, when I'm driving in the city, it happens as many as 3 times a minute or so).
I immediately attributed the problem to the transmission and did 2 drain and fills with a synthetic fluid that's rated to meet Type-IV WS standards. The problem hasn't gone away, so either the problem in the transmission is a lot worse than I'd hoped, or there's something else wrong.
I ran an OBD-II code reader on it and have been getting an O2 sensor code. I was planning on replacing both of the O2 sensors to see if that fixed the problem. I was thinking that the lurch that I was feeling was just engine misfires caused by the O2 sensors sending bad info, leading to the engine running lean (the engine hasn't been overheating).
Either way, I need to put in new O2 sensors, but yesterday while I was driving to work, the engine almost completely stopped supplying power. It kept running, but no matter how hard I pushed the pedal, the vehicle wouldn't move any faster. I pulled over, turned it off, and turned it back on, and it worked again, but the VSC and traction control lights went on.
Does this sound like a transmission problem, or is there something in the ECM that would cause these kind of things now that the O2 sensors have gotten so bad?
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I have a 99 V6 original owner with 177,000 miles. The car has all the usual work done for its age and miles with one cam tensioner and associate seals, gaskets, water pump, etc.... Getting some burn oil smell and believe the other tensioner is starting to leak but it's not bad. Replacement of the cracked AC coil was difficult...
Lately when the car is in higher gears, light load, and RMPs around 1,400 to 1,800, the car starts to flutter and the rmps jump up and down a couple of hundred and you feel the car lurch a bit. It's not harsh. Feels like a miss but you don't feel much engine jump or knock. Under hard acceleration, the RMPs are smooth and no lurching.
When I back off down to 1,400 or 1,500 and accelerate easy, the problem returns. Sometimes I feel it up at 3,000 but not as pronounced. The car is not throwing codes.
All ignition components are fresh in the last year with wires, pugs, etc... I still need to get this car to 250K...
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My wife has a 2000 t&c with 150k on it its a fwd with 3.8 and about a month ago while driving we noticed the rpms will jump up 400 and go back, with cruise control on or off being held at a consistent speed. and about for days ago it started shifting late. Still has all gears fluid looks o.k. and is full no check engine light .
I am hearing transmission solenoid, tps sensor, input sensor, output sensor, tcm, iac, map, or egr are all possibilities or a rebuild . Or simple as a flush.. tonight i went out n started it it idles around 800 tried to hold it at 1200 and it would for a second and drop back to 800 with accelerator being slightly held. Not sure if related. Just observed it..
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1989 Saturn 5 speed, 4 cyl, 185,000 miles. Just started overrevving, when I try to go into 1st or 2nd or idle RPMS jump to 4500. So not a good thing. Do not tell me to buy a new car, not in the budget, or maybe it is.
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2003 Mazda6, 3.0 liter, 6 cylinder, FWD. My RPMs are starting to jump, so I believe a clutch replacement may be in line soon. However, I'm not a huge car guy, and I don't have much experience in regards to replacing clutches.
(1) The RPMs are jumping occasionally at higher gears (not every time). How long do you think I could go before the clutch dies completely? I'm not a "racer", and I just use my car for daily driving.
(2) Do mechanics replace clutches based on symptoms alone, or can they actually visually inspect the clutch and determine that it needs to be replaced?
(3) When replacing a clutch, what parts need to be replaced besides the actual clutch itself? Also, I've read about flywheels needing to be resurfaced, but is that necessary?
(4) What manufacturer makes good clutches? As mentioned, I'm not a hard driver or anything. Just need something that is good quality and affordable.
(5) Is the best way to save money (I'm a graduate student) to buy an aftermarket clutch and have the clutch installed by a local mechanic?
(6) At what mileages do clutches typically need to be replaced? I know it depends on how you drive. Let's say you're a casual driver and simply use your car to get to work, school, etc.
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Basically, when I just cruise in say 6th gear, and then step a little on the gas (or there is a hill), the engine rpm's jump up by like maybe 500 rpm's without a noticeable increase in speed, and there is no downshifting either.
I am sure this is normal, right? So what is the transmission doing? Coming from manuals only in the past, this seems strange.
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Intermittent problem, noticed mostly at low speeds, where car will buck or lurch forward. Most noticeable when accelerating after a slowdown, i.e. applying gas after coasting. No check engine lights, oil & transmission fluid is full. Car has 105K miles, tranny & coolant flushed every 30K, oil changed every 3K, tuneup w/plugs& wires @ approx. 93K, timing belt @ 70k. This car is a gem, mostly driven on the highway that has been perfect until now. Things I've considered doing: replacing timing belt, transmission solenoid, computer sensor that controls tranny. My suspicion is its tranny related but maybe not. Is there a way to check/set the timing on this car? I remember years ago using a timing light on my chevy. This is weird, it will run perfect smooth in the morning and rough with lurching in the afternoon. Could be a total coincidence but it seems to run ok when its cool and not so when it is hotter.
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I have manual shift and the clutch is worn out. when in motion if I press the pedal the rpms jump but the car does not accelerate. only way to accelerate is to press very gently.
Q: do I always need to change the flywheel, which is expensive or changing just the clutch will do??
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First & main issue: I throttle on, the RPMs jump, speed drops. I think I dealt w/ this before in my old Toyota pickup by replacing the clutch master cylinder. Is that right?
Secondly, I don't know if the engine of this lil car has been rebuilt, but the smoke from under the hood has been alarming. It smells of oil, and I've seen some spots that appear to have leaking oil dropping onto the exhaust, but the smoke keeps coming from various spots.
I really enjoy driving this lil car, it's my first Subaru and my first wagon, but if the trouble is just now starting for me, at over 210,000 miles... I've replaced a few things, but I've never owned a newer(ish) vehicle (except a Harley), and come to expect to do work every once in awhile. I'm fairly regular w/ preventative maintenance, but not strict about when to change fluids or flush things (i.e. transmission or radiator). Maybe I should just sell this one and move on.
I also hit a deer the other day going pretty fast and fortunately only busted out the passenger side head light, fog light, and blinker. The other day being over a month ago. I just don't drive at night and try to avoid right turns. Any thoughts on where to get cheap replacement parts? I can't seem to find anywhere that'll sell me those plastic bits for under a few hundred dollars.. strange considering a necessary part like a master cylinder is only $40..
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2004 BMW 325i automatic - 127,000 well maintained miles - never abused - at 35-40 mph in high gear the rpms will periodically drop 200 and there is a noise like driving over small rumble strips after which the rpms instantly return - the speed does not vary. the dealer installed a warn drive shaft bearing but the problem continues - it is a bit less noticeable in sport mode - what can it be? computer - transmission - ????
The intention is to keep it for many years so if it is a transmission problem would rebuilding the current one or putting in a new one be the more advisable solution?
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I have 07 camry after having it jumped, I have no acceleration at all battery was disconnected.
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I have a 2003 Mazda Tribute that seems to have a bit of an idling issue. When my heat on my car is off, everything is fine as far as the idle speed. When I have the heat on, even when it is low, and I am stopped, the rpm's rise a bit, then go back down to normal idling speed. The car also gives a little jump when I come to a stop. I think all of this is related to turning the heat on and off, as it doesn't happen when the heat is on.
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As the title says I incorrectly wired my jump start cables wrong when I was trying to jump start it. My car seems like it's completely dead now and afterwards when I did wire it correctly and let it charge for about 15 minutes no luck.
My odometer and just about everything in the car seems dead. When I put it in accessory the only electrical thing that seems to be working is the light where my ignition key goes into and all my regular lights inside the car. Thing's that don't work are my power seat and stereo/cd player
I have replaced all visible fuses underneath my hood and underneath my wheel as well. Does the Camry have some sort of safety fuse just in case incidents like these occur?
I bought a new battery but my car still won't crank or turn over. Some say it might be the solenoid or the starter. But I don't know.
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My wife left the lights on in the 2001 Camry and completely draining the battery. I tried to jump her but the car would not start (turns over great). Also the electrical system was strange in that the lights would not go off and other electrical items did not function. I disconnected the battery and fully recharged it and put it back on. I noticed that the "ALT" (100A) fusible link was blown and replaced it. Car still will not start (turns over great). The electrical problems appear fixed however the radio does not work. I tried to read the codes on the ODB and got "ERR". I checked all other fuses and they are good. I checked the pin-out voltage on the ODB port and was reading ~11.5V. I am wondering if I missed something like is the ECM bad? I can replace this myself for $150, but if I have it towed to a dealer it will cost me $800. Is there a way I can be sure that the ECM is bad, also are there other things to check that I may have missed. Also, when I turn the key to the "on" position, but do not start the car, the "Check engine" light does not illuminate.
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I have 2k7 Camry, doing the oil change last weekend I noticed that my oil pan has a small seepage from one side. I was thinking it might have to be re silicone it. How difficult was it to drop the pan??
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Took my Camry into the dealership for some preemptive work. Mechanic located a small oil leak under the car. Went through several iterations of cleaning/driving it for a few days to see if the issue would reoccur, unfortunately it seems to been a consistent leak (small).
The mechanic was unable to fully pinpoint where the leak is coming from (something about the oil riding down the power steering line down). We started off with two potential locations:
washers around/near the VVTI line, the housing on the engine. I've been wanting the metal VVTI line for a while, so I went ahead and replaced it. Unfortunately, the leak continued.
I was advised that in order to work on the housing on the engine (describe as possible bad seal) they would have to remove the power steering and the engine. Estimate to be 15-20 hours. They would remove the housing and reapply the seal.
Would like to reach out to the members of TN for advice. As of right now, the leak is very small and there has been no noticeable oil accumulation on the drive way. Still, this issue is somewhat annoying.
I've attached a pic, there's a very small drip of oil. It's located on mid/passenger side of the bottom bay.
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So I was driving home from work today and picked my daughter up from the sitters. When I got back in the car I noticed a "clunking" noise when I would hit small bumps. Trying to figure it out, I also noticed this occur when driving straight and moving the steering wheel back and forth.
The car is a 2012 SE v6 with about 26k on it.
I did install eibach springs about a month ago, but have not had any issues until now. I took both front wheels off and checked anything I would have changed when installing the slings and everything seems okay.
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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry it has a small leak-from the "Rear Main Seal" Very expensive to repair. I can't afford that at this time. I put in Valvoline Maxlife for older cars, sealed for couple mnthsnow its leaking again. Its not PCV. Would it damage other car parts? " Blue Devil Rear Main Seal Stop Leak and Conditioner"...
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My Toyota Camry (2000) has recently developed a small leak on the front passenger side of the car. The water seems to be coming in from the bottom of the front door about two inches from the door hinges since I can clearly see a water stain there. My mechanic has tried to locate the leak and he seems to think that it may be the windshield. He claims that he hosed it down and he thinks it is the windshield. To repair it he suggested that I will have to re install the windshield. How can I be sure of this?
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