Camry :: Light Flutter Noise When Slowly Speed Up To Between 1000 To 1300 Revs
Feb 25, 2016
When I'm driving in stop and go traffic during rush hour, my 2007 Camry V6 makes a light flutter when I slowly speed up to between 1000 to 1300 revs. It's not a grind or anything but it's like a light flutter/stutter that you can feel.
It's not a hesitation where the car slows down, but you can definitely feel and hear a light "duh duh duh" then the car continues. It doesn't happen at higher revs at all once the car picks up, say, 10 to 15 kms an hour.
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I cleaned the throttle body with CRC throttle body cleaner and now the motor idles at 1000-1300 rpm. Is this normal for a newly cleaned throttle body? How can I bring down the idling rpm?
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I have a 2003 Ford Musang 3.8L v6 when I start my car for the first time of the day or after several hours of sitting the car idles high between 1000-1300 RPMs for approximately 15-20 seconds after that it idles down to 600-800 rpms. I changed the spark plugs wires air filter not sure what else it could be no Check engine light.
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The front struts n my 2010 camry se with about 51k on it and it makes a horrible clunk and pop noise when going slowly on uneven roads and over speed bumps. I got out to check the cause and found it to be he top of the strut coming through the strut mount is making the popping sound and seems like it has more than normal movement... does this happen to many? is it a common issue...
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I have a 2006 2.0 tdi 170 dpf passat. Some times the revs rise to 900-1000 rpm and the engine sounds more noisy than normal. Then the revs go back to normal at 800 rmp and the engine sounds normal, What can be the cause of this??
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I have a 1997 Saturn, and have noticed for the past couple of months that when the car is idling at a stoplight, the engine seems to rev or almost skip a little bit. The RPMs go from about 1000 down to 500 for a couple of seconds, and this will happen once every 10 seconds or so. Otherwise, it runs fine...but this is happening more and more frequently than it used to.
I had the transmission rebuilt over the summer and its still under warranty. What might be causing this?
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My 2007 ES-350 has 151K miles on it. Took it to a dealer until 120K and then found a really good mechanic that works on it now. It has been a great car but recently started having front end issues.
I was getting a bad vibration at 55 plus mph. That was a fiasco to get fixed. These are all the thing in order I had to replace to fix the vibration/shimmy over a 6 month period.
New Tires
Two new control arms
CV joints
Front left axle
Finally have the vibration/shimmy fixed. However, I started noticing a different problem some months back but was hard to diagnose with all the front end issues. Now that those are fixed there is a random flutter or shake that comes and goes depending on speed, if I'm going uphill or accelerating during a turn. It only happens when my foot is on the accelerator. It's often more pronounced at lower speeds. I asked them to check the struts and they said I had two that were leaking, but my mechanic thinks it might be the transmission. But I am only familiar with transmissions slipping in and out of gear. This is not the case. I have also noticed recently that it is coming more frequent and will soon be a consistent problem.
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My mom wants to sell her 2002 Ford Explorer w/ 4.0 as enough kids have moved out that the vehicle is no longer needed. It has 162 000 mostly trouble free miles on it. However, for me to sell it for her, I need to get it running well first. The background:
Just recently it fried the alternator. No big deal, got a reman for my dad and he put it in. But now it has this sort of "shudder" at idle and low rpm, and also when accelerating slowly low in the revs. I don't know if it was there before or not because only my siblings drove it, and their not exactly observant. I am positive it is a misfire.
So far I have done the obvious. I have pulled all the plugs, they are nice and tan, re-gapped them (although they were only .002 out of spec at the most). I noticed that one plug wire was broken on the inside, where it connects to the plug. Thinking I solved the problem, I bought a new set of wires and put them on. No such luck however, as the problem continues unchanged. On the new wires, I have verified tons of spark making it through. In an effort to isolate the bad cylinder, thinking maybe it was actually a plug, I started pulling wires off the coil with it running. I could barely notice a change in the engine with any of them, and a couple seemed to have no change at all (again, I may just not have been able to detect it because I could barely make out the other changes).
Next, thinking maybe it was fuel related, I put a stethoscope on some of the injectors and they sounded the same, but I can not get at the back passenger and 2 back driver ones. How else can I test these?
I even went so far as to unplug IAC, engine died immediately so its not that. I also took off the EGR valve and cleaned it, and pushed the plunger up and down lots and it moves freely. I tried pulling off the vaccuum line from the EGR with the engine running and there was no change, but that doesn't really mean anything does it?
So I put it all back together and thats how it sits for the night. On a related note, the CEL is on, but it is on more often than not on that thing, and my dad has taken it to a dealer three times to have codes read and nothing ever shows up. The mechanics keep saying that it has something to do with the fuel cap and pressure or something.
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Our 1999 automatic Rav 4 (157,000 mi) occasionally won't accelerate from a full stop or from a low, in-town speed. You step on the accelerator and the engine just flutters at low rpm, stuttering. If you drop it into neutral and start revving it will eventually "catch" and be fine. Very dangerous when entering roadways. We have a new timing belt, cleaned up throttle plate, new sparks, water pump, oxygen sensor.
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My a/c has been slowly but surely going out. When it worked it would blow cold air, but it would slowly decrease the force that it would blow until almost nothing came out at all. Now it wont even turn on. The cabin air filter is new, the lights on the a/c and circulator are both on. I think the compressor is still turning on too. I did notice that occasionally it will make a quick hiss noise, but it happens fast, not a consistent hissing noise.
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My car makes a weird noise/feel when I stop at lights or when we are going very slowly-- its like some motor inside is spinning weirdly-- off kilter-like. This only happens when in drive or reverse; when in neutral and I rev the engine, it doesn't happen. This used to happen only when I drove for long times (3 hours maybe)--and I often could "fix" this by just letting the car rest for half and hour. Now it is happening just after 40 mins of driving. My car is a 99 Toyota V6 Camry.
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I have a 2001 4 cyl Camry with about 147K. I bought the car from the original owner a few weeks ago. The check engine light came on. The car idles very rough at low idle (e.g., while stopped with transmission in Drive). My mechanic changed out the EGR and another air flow valve that was apparently stuck open too much of the time, and also the engine idle air control valve. The check engine light is now off but I don't think it was related to the rough idle because that started before the check engine light. I have seen other forums that discuss the rough idle related to fuel dampener and also weak/broken motor mounts and haven't checked those out yet.
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A few months back my 2007 Camry started having this vibration along with a humming/buzzing sound between the speeds of 40-70mph. I seriously thought it was an axle/hub/bearing issue because of the buzzing sound. But at the same time the brakes were wearing down and noticed the shaking of the rotors when braking so kind of figured it may just be that. Explained to the Toyota people and they said most likely new brake service will fix the issue and not an axle/bearing issue. So went ahead and had the brake service done for both front & rear but the vibration & sound is still there. Can't be the tires because just got new ones just last year. Balanced & alignment done and still doesn't solve the problem. Found a TSB, T-SB-0106-08: Steering Wheel Flutter/Body Vibration at highway speeds (approximately 65-75mph).
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Searched and can't find anything like what I hear out of my V10. After I start the truck, say 10 seconds later, I get an inconsistent clunk type noise that I can't nail down. It like a clunk that flutters if that makes any sense. Truck has 125k on it. I've had it since 113k and noise has always been there. Im concerned as I'm soon going to be towing a travel trailer.
Also this passed week I started the truck and got a ticking noise almost like a lifter noise that would come and go. I tried changing the oil and substituting one quart of MMO. Ticking started after that. So I drained that out and put in 6.5 quarts of valvoline 10w30. Truck still runs fine down the road and I just completed a 300 mile round trip with no issues. But as soon as truck goes into park that clunky flutter noise is there.
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I recently put a cold air intake on my car and I could hear the dump when I let off of the gas. But I also put in a boost gauge but I think I had a leak in the hose going to the gauge. After I drove it for awhile the blow off valve started making a flutter noise when dumping. I fixed the leak in the hose but the flutter is still there. How do I fix the flutter? A new blow off valve? Mk4 Jetta 1.8.....
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Ok, did an intake manifold cleaning on my 99 Accord the other day, and now I have problems...
Long story short, some time ago my car started to have a very rough idle. Took me awhile to find the problem. Turned out the air hose, between the filter and throttle body, had developed a big hole on the underside. So I replaced it and while I was at it used some throttle body cleaner, spraying into the intake manifold chamber. Lot of junk blew out the tailpipe. The car ran much better, but the idle could still be a little rough. I ran it that way for awhile, and finally the other day decided there was probably still some junk in there and it was time to really clean it out. So I took ff the throttle body and intake manifold housing. There was a lot of junk in there! The small intake on the passenger side was completely clogged shut. (I understand this isn't surprising on these cars.) I used a bunch of rags and 2 cans of Valvoline throttle body cleaner and a lot of elbow grease and cleaned it out. I was thinking to myself that whatever I didn't get with the rags flushed through OK, but I didn't want to take the whole intake manifold out.
So I put it all back together. (I took a video before I started, so I'm pretty sure it's all back together right.) But now I have problems. The car starts. It idles fine mostly, but can be a bit rough. But the trouble starts when I put the pedal down. If I do it in Park, well, if I push it quick the engine just dies. If I push it slow, the engine revs then quits, revs and quits, over and over. Similar if it's in gear. If I push it hard, the engine stalls. If I push it gentle, it revs up, but chugs along a bit.
I've run some seafoam through it, thinking it was clogged up with all that junk, and sure enough, lots of smoke comes out, but nothing is improving so far. What have I done wrong?
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Well my 05 Touareg V6 is at VW waiting for a new tranny. It has approx 55,000 miles. The problem is, when i'm decreasing my speed say at 55 mph due to traffic or whatever, then begin to accelerate at approx 30mph, the engine revs slightly and the transmission kicks into gear very hard. VW test drove my VW and acknowledge that there is a serious problem with my tranny, but after 4 days, could not figure out why my tranny was doing this. So they are going to install a new tranny this week. I've already experience the hesitation problems and VW has attempted on fixing that too, but it still does it but i/wife have both have learned to live with it.
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I just got my Golf 7 (1.4 TSI 122PS 7Speed Dry DSG). I love the car but I have an issue making my driving a lot more stressful in tight traffic and parking. I just wanted to ask if this is an issue specific to my car or something happens to all Golfs.
When trying to take off with a very little throttle pressure, car starts to pull away very slowly at the beginning and then it jumps forward in a much higher speed even though I do not increase the throttle pressure. It even happens if I lift my foot from the throttle before jump happens. Because of this I cannot make very slow maneuvers because I cannot simply go very slowly and consistently. I am a complete rookie when it comes to cars but it feels like turbo coming into play after a certain engine rpm causing this. For the record this happens both in D or R.
I know I can creep using the brake but I heard that is very bad for dsg so I am trying not to do that. Also I cannot do that while Auto hold is on and I don't want to turn it off since it is a very handy feature in stop & go traffic which is usual in where I live. Also my steering wheel does not center itself automatically so I am doing it manually.
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2013 Elantra has occasionally high engine revs at low speed. No check engine light. Transmission is not slipping .... Just high engine revs in traffic at low speed ( under 40 mph).
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My 02 camry recently started dying at a stop and would not idle above 1000 rpm. I cleaned the throttle body(very dirty) and the car started right up idling at about 1500-2000 rpm i walked away for a minute and came by to drive it and no acceleration would come as well as when i start it up now it just goes back to idle at about 500 rpm.
I am not sure what the problem may be, my air filter box is not on properly I am going back to the car to tighten it down today but i highly doubt it will fix anything. I also read something about the computer needing reset, if i go and unhook the batter for 30 min and hook it back up will the computer reset and possibly fix my acceleration problem?
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my car is losing a quart of oil every 800 to 1000 miles the car is not leaking or burning oil. why is this happening and where is the oil going .how do i stop this from happening the car is a 2009 toyota camry with a four cylinder engine
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