Camry :: Leaking Coolant, Sealant In Between Transmission Halves
Dec 16, 2015
2003 camry le 4cyl 197,000 miles and is butter smooth. Leaking coolant somewhere. Not hoses, not water pump. I dont see anything or smell coolant. I looked under and see three bright red drops of oil on my trans. I jack it up and clean it. Appears the sealant in between the two transmission halves is weeping. Used to be an off yellow color now red and three drops of oil along seam.
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I'm about 90% sure this is the cause of my nuisance leak on my 93 Aero. Upon inspection, I see tiny cracks (some near 1mm wide, most less) longitudinally down the factory seams (gutters) in the roof. I've had a small leak which manifests itself right above the drivers rear cubby hole (jack within).
Unless I hear otherwise, plan to buy a caulking tube of Butyl rubber sealant from NAPA and run beads the full length of the roof in each corner of those seams. Of course, prepped first for adhesion. I need another 100K out of this Van!
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with 210,000km on it. Today I popped the hood, noticed the coolant was slightly low in the over flow reservoir so I looked around the engine bay. Now I know generally coolant does not go up that far and it's just oil... But this has got my head turning. There's a crusty coolant residue drip that looks to start at the valve cover. At first I thought maybe the water pump was leaking, and the pulley was spinning it farther up, or spraying back from a rad leak when driving. but the fact it's crusty and A clear line that looks like a drip that's a slow leak and has crusted over time makes me wonder.
I mean generally coolant wouldn't come out of the valve cover unless it was right full of coolant, causing enough pressure to push it out... Am I wrong ? Once I get to the shop on Monday I'm going to pressurize the cooling system and pull the spark plugs and the valve cover to look at the head, The highest spot I see the drip start is the valve cover, only thing I could think of is the intake leaking, and traveling over there but even then, it doesn't make sense to me. The thermostat housing is about 2.5" under so it can't be that... It's such a small leak, the reservoir is only down about maybe half an inch and the oil looks clean as can be.... There's some pictures below that you can somewhat see it.
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I have an 02 camry and the transmission appears to be leaking fluid around the transmission pan. The tranny shifts fine and I wiped the pan noticed the leak to get a little worse since the last time I was under to change the engine oil. Does that pan have a gasket or does it seal with just hi-temp sealer?
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I have replaced my cv axle and seal, and now I have transmission fluid leaking from the axle seal. What could be the cause of this? The seal is brand new as is the cv axle. Could it be that it the seal isn't seated correctly? What could possibly went wrong to cause this?
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I drive a 2011 Elantra and like it quite a lot with the way it looks, interior space, beautiful lighting, fuel economy, etc.
I started hearing rattle while driving over even slight bumps; the sound seems to be coming from both of the upper halves of the B-pillars. Tried spraying plastic contact surfaces with silicon spray but squeaks are still there.
Simple inspection of the upper part of the B-pillar plastic (gray colored, in my case) shows that it has a significant gap between the plastic cover and the pillar...
So now I'm thinking to remove the plastic covers and see what may be at fault, to tighten the way it sits maybe. How to go about taking the thing apart (and then putting it back in place )?
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I changed my sparkplugs n changed to r8 coilpacks. On all 4 of the old coilpacks, was a line of orange gewy stuff about halfway down the coil pack. I thought it was oil, but I rubbed a paper towel down into the cylinder where the coilpacks go and it was like orange silicon that wasn't dry. There was orange geew on all 4 cylinders.
It looks like its orange sealant, but its wierd that it never dried... Good thing is I saw no oil on the sparkplugs but its just odd to have sealant that never dries. Is this normal or did they mess up at the factory?
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I was checking out a rust spot in the roof and upon closer inspection also saw that the sealant in the channels is cracked on the edges. Can't tell if there is rust in there too or just dirt.
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I took my relatively well maintained '98 Camry to Texaco Xpress Lube and they changed my oil and air filter. I then embarked on a 400mile trip to Miami. The next morning when I went to start the car, I fogged the entire neighborhood with a thick low-lying white vapor/smoke. It was ridiculous. So, I opened the hood and noticed my coolant reservoir was nearly empty and my oil dipstick was bone dry. Thinking this was awfully strange, I went to inspect the air filter and noticed that they installed a filter that was short by about 1.5" in one dimension and I could see sand, leaves, and twigs in the bottom of the air box. The shop basically put a square filter in a rectangular air box. After some preliminary research, I've concluded that my engine is now completely ruined because of this. From what I gather, the sand in the airbox enterred the combustion chamber and proceeded to grind the internal components to smithereens. Is this a reasonable conclusion considering my engine has never had these problems before. Also, how would I even start to get some rectification?
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Woke to some coolant under the car...
so I got under the car and found that the red leak (I did not touch it when I saw it .. I was in a hurry... ) was not atf after all... it is just the reddish VW coolant.... you can see it does look like ATF, but it is indeed sweet coolant
there was a significant marking at the bottom of the bell housing.
Seems almost impossible that it originated from inside there but there are no other traces that I could see.
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My car is BMW2000 323i. My coolant is leaking, I need to refill it every month. The dealer told me I need to change the radiator and some related components in the coolant system. But the labor fee is too high.
I was told to use a coolant seal to fix the problem like K-Seal. After a long time searching on the Internet, I got confused. Someone says it works, but other people say it never works. What should I do?
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How to identify this 'leaking' coolant hose? (cooler hose?), I took a picture with my cell ... It shows a stainless steel coolant line with calcified Dried/heater coolant residue on the outside, and I noticed it was leaking coolant (using a periscope mirror )...
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1998 ford taurus ohv is overheating and coolant is leaking out of fill cap takes forever for the temp gauge to read anything then after 6 or 7 minutes of driving it shoots up to about midway overheats and can hear serp belt squeeling from getting wet from coolant
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Coolant leaking . Very clean red coolant appearing , a few drops at a time are appearing on the garage floor , but the level in both reservoirs is full. The engine reservoir looks a little too full. I have not added any myself but the dealer serviced it in June. The only thing I can think of , is that they filled it too full .
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What's with this coolant reservoir cap keeps leaking coolant?! I've been having to clean mine every few hundred miles now. The dealer overfilled my coolant but I already drained them out to just below the Max line and it still pushes out coolant. It was much worse when it was overfilled though. Now it's barely visible under the cap. Toyota of all people doesn't know how to design a proper coolant cap? On a 60K car? Can u all check under the hood and see? Cause u might have coolant leaks all over.
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So, the sideways coolant tank in the engine compartment, not the one next to the grill, but the one that is sort of between the air filter box and that shiny metal square
I have always thought that tank was slightly low, but it has a seam just about where the full line is, so I was never sure....finally about three weeks ago, I worked up my courage and put a few ounces of coolant in that tank. THEN it was up to the full line.
So, a few weeks after adding the coolant, I had the water pump recall done. Now the coolant level is back down to where it was before I added....so I am assuming that the correct level is just below that seam that seals the top of the plastic tank to the bottom part of the tank.
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Why a 2004 Yukon Denali would not start. It's leaking coolant. The battery was replaced less than 2 weeks ago and it doesn't jump start. I was told that the water pump is cracked and when you turn the key the lights and radio come on but that's about it.
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So I'm about 10 mins from home today when the coolant low/overheating dash light (the key light) came on and started flashing. I got off the next exit and pulled into a Wal-Mart and notice I had no coolant when I lifted the hood. There was a strong coolant smell so I looked under the car and it was pouring out.
I got some more put in to get me home. I was 5 mins away and by the time I got home it was completely empty again. I can't see the leak looking from the top of the engine. When I look up it's coming out on the passenger side at the back of the firewall.
I filled it back up and just pulled the car into the garage. 7 hours later and the coolant is still full so it only happens when I'm driving. There was no oil present in the coolant leak. I pulled the oil dipstick and it looks normal, no milky color.
I'm having it towed to the local VW dealership tomorrow morning but just wanted to see what everyone's opinion on the issue might be.
Only 33K miles on the Tiguan The engine never ran hot. The needle was right in the middle the entire time. No engine mods other than a Chip, Intake, and Catch Can. I've yet to hear about either of those three mods causing this issue.
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I have an '09 Accent, with 102,000 miles on it, it is in good shape, and current on all its maintenance, however, i am leaking coolant via the radiator cap, and don't know why. It has been replaced twice, once by me, and once at the dealership after a pressure check confirmed i was not leaking anywhere else, ie: into the engine.
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When my 2000 GTI VR6 sits for a week or two the coolant will run low. There are no leaks that I can find. No coolant in the oil. The crack pipe looks dry. Nothing from the thermostat hosing that I can see. The carpet by the heater core is dry. Nothing that I can see. The thing that is funny is I can drive the car with it 100 degrees outside in Georgia and have no problems with the coolant getting low, or any signs of a leak, smoke or smell. The head gasket and every gasket except the oil cooler and oil stand gasket were replaced about two years ago. The heater core was also replaced at the time. I gave the front pulled loose so I can pressure test the system and look more today.
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On my way home from work, after driving about 45 minutes, I stopped at the Post Office. On the way out I noticed that coolant was leaking. I was able to make it home without overheating. My guess was either the water pump or a hose.
This morning I physically checked the hoses and they seemed fine. I filled the radiator with water and started the van and let it run until it got hot. I watched to see if I could tell where the leak came from. I could not get it to leak, after 15 minutes I gave up. I know it was leaking yesterday, not only did I see green coolant, the radiator was low on coolant.
What should I do to further diagnose the problem?
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