Camry :: Hesitation When Trying To Get Moving - Idle RPM About 650 In Gear
Nov 14, 2014
A problem just popped up yesterday. 09 Camry, 2.4L, SE, about 178k on the odo. Started out as a slight hesitation when trying to accelerate from a stop, hardly noticeable, in the am. As day progressed it got much worse (very little driving but about 3 to 4 trips). By night the car wants to die upon first start up. Engine will rev higher, then drop, then rev, and will drop way low and stutter and die if I don't feather gas. Very bad hesitation today when trying to get moving. This morning it was revving high, low, high, low (high meaning a little over 1000), then dropped, stuttered and died. Cranked again fine.
My in gear idle rpm is about 650. I will be checking the plugs and throttle body later today as several months back I had issues that seemed to be related to those. I have my suspicions, but want to get opinions. I filled up the tank yesterday morning. Was about 14 degrees yesterday morning, warmed up to around 30. In the 40s today. Engine does get to normal temp, all that fun jazz. I am thinking shitty gas....?
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We have a brand new 2013 Ford Focus, a little over 2500 miles. We drove the vehicle to NYC, starting the trip with over 500 miles. During stop-n-go driving the following conditions are experienced: - car in drive but stopped, engine idles at 750rpm- car moving at crawl speed, less than 5mph, and RPM between 750 to 2100, engine acts as if it will stall (IT IS AN AUTOMATIC TRANS); when this happens there's an obvious shudder - again almost as if the car will stall out- cannot determine what gear its in, but probably first, second, or maybe third, but no higher
We took the car back to the dealer, but they acted as if this was a normal, if not, non existent issue; they were very dismissive.
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I have a 1988 Toyota Camry. I was driving to work this morning, the car was driving fine. After about 10 mile or so, I stopped at a red light, when the light changed the car wouldn't accelerate it seemed to have a really bad hesitation. If i let off the gas it would idle fine, none of the warning lights are on. However, when I give it more gas the car doesn't have any power at all. It has plenty of gas in it and the exhaust has no signs of any oil or water in it. I was thinking it may be a bad fuel filter or a tank of bad gas.
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So I have had my 02' Camry for a little over a year. Love the car, it is a 2.4L SE with a 5-speed manual. Recently it has developed this mystery misfire/hesitation under a load and at idle with the AC on. I replaced the plugs with OEM Toyota Iridium and it seemed to clear it up for about a month, but now has come back. If I start the car and turn on the AC it will intermittently start to miss but not only when the compressor is engaged and it does it every now and then under a load specifically in 4th or 5th gear under a load with lower RPM's (under 2000).
The check engine light is not on and hasn't as much as even flashed on at any time so there must not be any hard misfire codes. I want to stop by Autozone and see if they will scan it to find any stored codes but haven't had time. I would think that if it was a coil pack that it would be a hard misfire. I'm stumped. This car is in great condition...no oil leaks, interior is near perfect (replaced a worn shift knob, and door panel pieces around the window switch). Also car has 160k miles.
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I just bought a 2009 Camry LE (4 cylinder) about a week ago. It's only got 10K miles on it. Ever since I got the car, I've noticed a very slight vibration when stopped and in gear. It does this when the engine is cold and warm. It only does this when I am in gear with my foot on the brake and stopped. I still have warranty, should I bring it in to the dealer? Is there a simple fix for this? Or is this normal?
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We've brought our 1999 Camry to our mechanic twice for a starting problem to no avail because it never happens while it's there. So cliche right? About half the time it has trouble starting and the rest of the time it starts and operates fine.
These troublesome starts: * typically idle very low then stall completely if you try to put it in gear * sometimes, but very rarely, stall immediately * sometimes giving it a tiny bit of gas seems to prevent stalling * eventually, after 1-2 minutes, the engine begins running normally (usually i just sit there and wait and can feel the obvious/sudden change from idling low to a normal idle
It just passed the CA smog test and the mechanic couldn't find any problem. What should I do?
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Just noticed a faint sound at idle when the car is not moving. I think I traced it down to the serpentine tensioner. Will take it to the dealer tomorrow and will update. Serpentine belt tensioner noise? 30k, stock car.
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so I bought my gli about a month ago assuming it needed a clutch (got it for a steal so wasn't worried about it) the kid I bought it from didn't really know much about the issue but it was a constant grinding when in gear and moving but the second you engage the clutch it would stop, and quiet down completely, so I dropped the trans and inspected clutch, throw out bearing, & fly wheel it all looked new.
So than my second guess was it was something internally in the transmission so I sent it out to be inspected and repaired as needed. I got a call from the shop today that said everything was perfect so I am completely stumped as to what my problem is. I have a new clutch, flywheel, throwout bearing, all new linkage, & am changing fluid. I don't know what else it could be and really don't wanna have to drop the trans again once its back together.
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My Subaru started making a noise that the mechanic can't seem to identify - I hear it when the car is in gear and moving only - it's like a humming noise that increases in frequency as the car goes faster and winds down as I approach a stop - it totally stops if the car is not moving even though the engine is running. It doesn't sound like it's coming from the tires. It's a noise that I feel like I've heard coming from a K car or a Chrysler or something. It's not a rattling but rather changes regularly with acceleration/deceleration. I was thinking it might have something to do with the turbo. The car seems a little sluggish (more than lag in the turbo, maybe?)
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I turned my car on and put it in gear and I realized I was not moving. I put it back in park and tested my brakes but it felt like my brakes were already pushed all the way down to the floor. I also noticed my engine light on. I turned my car off and turned it back on and everything was okay. This happened once before a month ago. I have an 08 Sentra.
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The system is charged, the fan looks working, but the a/c works well only when the cars is moving. What is it?
We think it works well if the "rear ac" is on, but that's not normal anyway.
The system is charged, a autozone tester say overloaded but the gauge of a technician says is ok, then who knows. The fan is working and the car never goes overheat, then I guess that fan is working good.
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VW Passat b5 1.9 TDi AVF engine ... When I start my car in cold the idle keep moving from 800 to 1100 rpm. and sometimes when i start the engine in hot it revs till 2000 rpm. I never scanned with vag com? I think G62 sensor problem???
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When I went to put my car into gear today (automatic gear box, 2004) the gear shifter was very hard to move, as if whatever automated its ease is no longer functioning. And i'm pretty sure the steering and brakes are not performing with their power aided functions either. Is this a set of servos all on one line somewhere? Fried? Just a fuse?
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My 2000 dodge caravan with the 3.3 is shuddering while in gear and not moving especially in reverse . As soon as you start going it stops . No slipping whatsoever. The van only has 130'000 miles on it .
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I have had the habit of manually shifting down to slow my 2005 GX since new. Only have 55,000 mi so not really a high mileage or worn out yet.
Now the other day there was a resistance moving into or out of a gear (can't remember which) at a time where I needed to get moving so used some extra oomph to try to complete the change and seemed to have a resistance ..... and then felt what I guess was something plastic break.
Now the selector does not stay in 4th when moved left but springs back to "D". Also feels as if the spring resistance is less. All seems looser.
What am I looking at for repair and what is really amiss? Where is a diagram to see the broken parts and how to access it? ---- Part #?
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The title pretty much explains it. Coming home today started hearing a squeal/whistle while at highway speed - almost sounds like the brake wear indicator tabs that GM is so fond of. Thought it might be the brakes, but it didn't stop with brake application and continued after coming to a full stop. Also, surging at idle, which seems to be reduced when the A/C compressor is on. The squeal happens both with and without A/C.
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One of my issues is a "level fault workshop" message and abs/ esp lights that only appear once I put the car in gear and start moving.
The car does seem to raise and lower normally and there doesn't seem to lose height over night.
To check if it's a particular wheel height sensor, what controller should I scan in vcds? Nothing related to suspension came up in my full auto scan.
I did have an intermittent brake light switch code, could that generate the level fault?.
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After car warms and while driving trans moves to 3rd gear and stays ??
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I've recently been having a metallic creaking/rattle go on when idle or moving at slow speeds. I took it in during my 20k service and they said there was something with a cable and the heat shield... the service manager had also said something about the catlytic converter - but when I re-checked the service slip - nothing. This was originally in March.
The noise came back again recently so I had a different dealer check it out when I finally had the fuel tank recall done. They confirmed the noise and checked the heat shield (I had told them about the original complaint), but said there wasn't much that can be done - they made sure all the bolts were tight, but the noise was coming from the heat shield "flexing."
Most of the time it's fine and the noise went away for several months. It's subtle again, but if it becomes constant - it seems like I have a valid argument to have the heat shield replaced - seems defective.
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