Camry :: HR Drop With KYB-gr2 / Back Stuts Became Noisy
May 29, 2012
After installing my drop and my new stuts I notice now how noisy my back stuts have became. Its not a knock or anything you can just here them settle on any rough surfaces and or backing out of the driveway. When we put them in we didn't really regrease the spring to rubber grommet thing was wondering if this could be the culprit. And if so could I use spring compressors to give me the gap I need apply more strut grease without taking them off.... is that possible?
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OK, so I have a 2009 Elantra and have noticed that in the last 2 weeks, there is a severe rattle/clunk when I hit bumps that sounds like it is coming from the back right tire. At times it also sounds like it is coming from the seats. I just can't tell. It has been to 3 different dealers. One said they heard it and suggested it was a loose spoiler....tightened and no change. The dealer I bought it from claims they hear nothing (it is SO noisy!). I went to a dealer today who drove with me and said it may be a defect with struts, etc. They definitely heard it.
So I ask new Elantra owners..could it just be that the Elantra is noisy over bumps? Sounds like my shocks are gone. Super loud when going over bumps. My car is only 6 months old.
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I have an 05 s10. The gas gauge will read correctly and then randomly it will drop to no fuel and light the low fuel light. then after a few minutes will pop back up to the proper reading? band sending unit? bad wire? where to look?
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So this morning I was in rush hour traffic, stopped at a traffic light when all of a sudden, I get the bong that signals "refuel" I have just under 1/2 tank, though. Glanced down at the fuel gauge to see it drop down to E and then a few moments later back up to just under 1/2. All the will car was running and seemed fine otherwise. The refuel sign stayed on though ...... even when switched off (while MFD was still on) Restarted the car and refuel message was no longer displayed. What could this be? fuel pump on the way out?
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I was driving at 60mph and all of sudden rpm drop to zero went back to normal rpm after 5 seconds, pulled over thinking I blew some thing every thing seem normal is this a sensor problem.
2000 dodge ram 1500 5.9l 2wd
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I have a 2.0 auto city golf. The wife claims when she's sitting at a light the temp gauge drops to nothing, it sounds like it stalled and starts to roll back and then comes back to life when she pumps the gas. Every time I drive it it's fine.
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I have a 2000 Neon with about 170K miles on it. with in the last 2 weeks it has been having a problem with acceleration. When i start to drive the RPMs will get up to 4 before it will start to move. Also when i am drive and need to pick up speed the RPMs will also go up to about 4 before it starts to pick up speed, but will drop back down when the speed goes up. I have found a little oil in the spark plug tubes and will be changing the seals out, and I have cleaned to MAP sensor as will. What is going on with my acceleration.
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I have a 2003 dodge grand caravan with about 111,000 miles on it. Overall it has been a reliable car. In the past month we had to replace the ECM because the computer died on the car. Now, very intermittently, while driving at about 60 mph the car will suddenly drop to 40 mph then shoot right back to where it was at 60. This only happens for about a second and then its fine.
Its quite startling but it has only happened to us 3 times in the past two weeks, so its very hard to replicate. There are no engine codes and it seems like the tachometer does not change during this sudden drop, although to be honest I wasn't paying that close attention to it when it happened.
Could it be related to the recent ECM replacement? The dealer "reprogrammed" the computer so I'm assuming all parts electrically have been checked.
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I have 1999 Honda Accord LX, 185000 mile, with 4 cylinders. Starts one month ago, the speedometer drop to zero randomly and immediately come back to normal on highway several times. Recently, car stops twice on street. Dashboard panel had no power. It seems electricity shuts off. I turn the key to OFF and turn the key to ON immediately then the car starts OK. The ignition switch was changed since there was a recall for it. What is wrong with my car?
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So over the last few months I have been having more and more idling and power loss issues with my 2006 V6. When idling she intermittently will try to stall and the rpms will drop below 500 and then spike back up. A large percentage of the time I hear a loud whining sound while driving down the road and I notice that turning off the air conditioner will remove the sound at times.
***what I have done so far**
Idler Pulley
Belt tensioner
sepentine belt
cleaned MAF
Cleaned Throttle body
Throttle Position Sensor
Had car reprogrammed
So I pulled the belt off and checked all the pulleys and did notice some grittiness in the AC pulley (inner) and was wondering if this might be the issue. Attached is a video I uploaded, Video .....
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One of my Aerostar pet peeves is to do with the sliding door alignment, or should I say slight misalignment.
Some of the alignment problems can be attributed to worn out nylon roller bearings. Make sure the roller guide ways are clean of any foreign debris. When you car wash your Aero, make sure to also clean the interior roller guide way (open the sliding door and thoroughly clean around the area where the bottom sliding door wheel travels).
After 20 years of usage, the sliding door will eventually drop down and back a few millimeters. Some of the symptoms associated with this will be a sporadic loss of electrical contact with those that are outfitted with electrical door locks. Also, the sliding door may also require some manual assistance at back edge to open the door. It can become somewhat frustrating, and perhaps a little embarrassing when parked beside a newer vehicle outfitted with automatic door opening/closing mechanisms.
I am not sure if the elevation of the sliding door can be adjusted at the rear or in the middle, but I do know that the horizontal position of the sliding door can be adjusted to a certain degree. The vertical position can be only adjusted by a very tiny amount.
1) Remove all of screws on the sliding door interior panel, and as well as the torx screw on the open/close barbaric door handle.
2) The bottom panel, other than the screws, has 2 plastic/nylon semi-resuble flat headed holder fittings.
3) Remove the two interior rubber grommets at the rear edge of the door. This will reveal 3 adjustment bolts.
4) Loosen the bolts, then push the door a bit forward while holding the middle hinge. Don't push too much! Just a little.
5) Re-tighten the middle handle bolts, and subsequently re-adjust the striker bolt. This is a PITA to align properly.
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1997 Nissan pickup 2.4 liter auto.gas gauge drop to all most empty when driving.then i can hit a bump in the road and it will go back to normal.
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The fuel gauge on my 2005 is getting noisy. On start up when I turn the ignition and the gauge goes from empty to full, it makes a gear noise as if it needs some lube. The problem is that these are closed clusters and as far as I know I would not be able to apply lubricant inside.
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My 2000 Toyota Camry is making lots of noise.My mechanic says, the exhaust is leaking and costs $566. Is this something I should change or can go on without any repairs.
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By mistake I hit the manual gear on my camry 2013. Luckily traffic was bad so I was driving for a few minutes around 40 mph and reached 60. The engine was noisy but I didn't know what's going on until later. I switch back to auto mode and noise went away. How bad is that? Do I have to do sthg?
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MY 2000 300M has a problem with the fuel gauge. When over 1/2 a tank and just under the full mark the gauge will randomly drop down to empty and turn on the low fuel light then go back to the correct reading and will do this over and over again. my mechanic has looked at the car believes it's the sending unit. Just wanted a second opinion before I spent the money for a fuel pump module for the car.
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Recently I have noticed that when on a tune other than stock I am getting a surge at idle - my RPMs drop to around 621-630 then shoot back up to 660-675. On my stock tune my RPMs stay around 640-667 and don't cause the surge (felt as a shimmy so to speak). Is there anything else that causes a similar symptom? I attribute it to tuning due to it only happening when running anything but stock but could be wrong.
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I recently bought a 2006 Ranger with supposedly 110000 miles... I don't think I made a good deal... because I found the stabilizer end link in terrible shape which seems suspicious for this mileage in my personal opinion!? But this isn't the reason I am posting today... I have a serious breaking issue and I couldn't find explanation yet.
My ABS Light is on. When I slowly brake at low speed and when the brake is almost completely depressed... I hear a low humming sound, and the brake pedal seems to momentarily drop back just slightly. This also happens when I'm going down hill and breaking. For the most part, the car breaks, and it's only every 8th or 10th time braking that I experience this issue.
My guess is this is linked to the ABS... but I can't afford expensive service and need to resolve this on my own.
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I might be buying a 14 Camry tomorrow. I test drove it the other day and had it looked at by belle tire. They said the rear tires are choppy causing noisy driving. On the highway it sounds really noisy in the front of the vehicle. Everything else checked ok on the inspection but I was trying to find some wheels that will fit the Camry. 5x114 which my parents have a 95 lexus es300 that has 5x114 wheels. Although the tires are 205 65 15. Do I could put those on and will they clear everything to be able to fit?
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I've had my camry SE special edition model since november of 2015. I have noticed that on a few occasions(less than 10) that when stopped the rpm's drop and it shudders for about 2-4 seconds then the rpm's rise again and its good.
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My wife has a 02 Solara V6. It has been a cold spring and now it has warmed up and in the 80's and a problem has reared its head. Engine runs fine, will warm up normally and while driving will stay at a normal halfway temp.
Problem is it will heat up at idle, say at a light. The fans run, but half assed. They'll kick in with the AC on and the temps will drop, but then they switch off to half assed speed again. I will probably take a multimeter and measure the voltage at each fan plug when they are running slow.
The weird part is both fans go full bore when the AC is on and then slow after about 4-5 mins.
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