Lifting a 2AZ-FE block to get it on an engine stand. Block is already on the ground. I need to confirm engine lift points for this block. ( block & cyl. head without trans-axle ). Couldn't find anything in any of the docs & refs that I have & searched. I would rather not lift it by the cyl. head lift points since the head bolts are a weak point on this block.
View 3 RepliesWe are at a point where we need to install the tensioner for the chain, but the harness itself can't be moved enough. We may wind up removing the intake again to do so. Any easier methods?
Also under the intake at the back I noticed what appears like an open ended vacuum line after some small check valve... I don't recall it attaching to anything during tear down... Looking for vacuum diagram of the 2.4?
bought my car in 2008 with 19k already on it certified used. fast forward to 2012 and 102,000 miles on it engine has a knock coming from the engine block. I purchased a warranty 7/100,000 mile. Did oil changes myself every 5k full synthetic. when the car developed a knock i noticed the engine oil was scary low. Since i got my car from the time i got it at 19k and i bought the 7/100,000 mile warranty on top of that.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1994 Black Ford F150 and i was wondering if i could lift the truck 6 inches only using lift blocks (or any other cheap way to get my truck off the ground)....
View 2 RepliesI have a 92 Volvo 240 (250k) with EGR (California car). I live in Alabama, no EGR needed here. There is check engine code that points to the EGR. It has been exhibiting all the symptoms of a defective EGR for quite a spell, check engine light just showing up recently.
Should I clean it, replace it ...or just take it off entirely. If I remove it, what needs to be done with that removal (such as ECU adjustment, replacement)?
Any way to make the trunk lift mod with rubber straps or bungee cord work on gen 5 camry . I would like my trunk to open all way when I pop it open.
View 3 RepliesI'm pulling the engine to overhaul. I've borrowed a hoist and think I'm ready to lift the engine out, but I don't know how to strap the engine to the hoist. I first thought of using the brackets with the eyelets bolted to each head and bought chain and hooks. But I had to remove the rear bracket so I could remove the rear exhaust manifold so I could remove that darn rear engine-transaxle bolt. (That really bites because I want to have the exhaust manifolds on when dropping it back in.)
Are those brackets intended for lifting the engine? If so, I could reinstall the back bracket and give it a go.
Searched the internet for info but didn't find much. Did find a 3800 being lifted with two straps completely under the engine.
Also, the engine-transaxle joint hasn't cracked open yet. I'm guessing it's because they're stuck after 198k miles and will eventually separate. But I did not find one of the engine-transaxle bolts mentioned in the 98 FSM: front lower (#1). I don't see how I could have missed it ; maybe the 99 doesn't have it?
Should the engine block of an 2005 Acura RL crack if the car's maintenance has been regular and complete according to all dealer specified recommendations? Cooling system never stopped working either. What else could cause the engine block to crack?
View 14 RepliesSo my father's 4.2L 2005 T-reg V8 was losing coolant like crazy. All of the sudden all the temp gauges went nuts. We had it towed. VW filled it back up. MY dad refused to drive home in it and had the service manager take it home for the night. It had to be towed back to the dealership.
Long-story-short, the engine block was cracked. My dad has never off-roaded the vehicle, much less even driven it hard. VW didn't know what to do either. LUCK, he has ~59,000 miles on it, so he's just under the 60k drivetrain warranty. VW first waffled, then agreed to fix it under warranty. Then they told my dad that it would be 4 - 8 weeks to fix it. THen they refused him a loaner car.
Where is the coolant drain plug on the engine block? Have the haynes book and still can't figure it out.
View 3 RepliesI noticed these oil droplets hanging on the staircase like structure on the backside of the engine block:
Are they normal? Where do they come from? I vaguely remember someone has also seen these.
Date was 20101030 and mileage ~ 15000
I have about 83k miles on my Accent. It was undriven for about three months due to a blocked situation with the local Department of Transportation. I've changed the oil and he seems to be driving fine, but right after starting the car, there's a squealing that comes from the engine block as I apply pressure to the accelerator. The sound goes away after a minute of acceleration, upon breaking, or after driving for a while. Also, when shifting from reverse to drive, the steering feels a little stiff. Is this a loose belt problem? Do I need to replace said belt? Or is there a more extensive problem with the power steering pump?
View 11 RepliesI recently purchased a 2004 Jeep wrangler Sahara. In retrospect, I probably should have inspected it more closely. The underside, including the sides of the engine block (below the heads, etc.) have a lot of rust. With little effort I can flake off pieces as thick as a quarter for example. How concerned I should be and what I need to do???
View 5 RepliesI've got some light smoke coming off my engine block, it smells slightly sweet. The smoke is not noticible unless you open the hood, and it is coming from the driver side of the engine. There are always small drops of coolant on the block. The hose is brand new, what else could be causing this?
View 3 RepliesHow can I tell if the engine block heater in my 2010 Prius is working (dealer installed)? The one on my old Subaru made a hissing noise; the one on the Prius makes no noise.
View 19 RepliesWe have a 2004 Dodge Sprinter 2500 Van 5 Cylinder Mercedes Turbo Diesel. Recently, at around 70,000 miles, when we start the engine block heater, the sounds are not normal. The heater appears to start working, since we can hear and smell the burner, but the heating ceases within a few minutes. The unusual sounds continue until the heater is turned off.
View 3 RepliesI have pondered why the sales of an otherwise very good car has been falling. It's styling is admittingly getting stale but is still a very good car. Not sure whether the new 2015 model will stop the falling sales. My personal opinion is that it will not.
My personal opinion for what it may be worth was the discontinuance of the V6 in favor of the trouble prone 2.0 turbo. When connecting rods are sticking out of the side of an engine block at about 2,000 miles there is a problem as happened locally.
Consumer's Reports agreed with me regarding the turbo I recall.
Note: I'm not concerned with the 2.4 GDI I have as it is for all practical matters the same basic engine as they have had for years as I understand it. The GDI is the new feature and yields up both better fuel economy and power. The turbo is exciting to drive but I just don't believe they will stand the test of time. They are required in over-the-road trucks but that is a whole different ballgame with very extensive engineering and strong warranties. But if someone is stuck with a broken block and it is not in warranty or just out of warranty it is a reputation problem that will impact sales adversely by word of mouth.
Ford Escape 6 cylinder - 100,00 miles. want to flush and change the coolant. Cannot unscrew the engine block drain plug using a 14 mm allen hex bit. Afraid of damaging the block, maybe cracking it. I tried turning the plug with my 1/2" torque wrench up to 130 ft. lbs. torque and it would not budge. Am afraid to use more or to put a cheater on the torque wrench. If something goes wrong the engine becomes scrap. What's the solution?
View 1 RepliesI drive a '99 Chevy Tracker with the 2Liter engine, a 5 speed manual transmission and 110K mi. on it. When I lift my foot from the throttle pedal in preparing to shift gears the engine takes a very long time to reduce it's RPM. This is a problem, when up shifting, as the transmission is spinning too fast for smooth gear engagement.
The engine idles normally under all other circumstances. It is only slow to decelerate whenever I lift my foot from the throttle pedal. This makes up shifting very slow and/or causes the gears to sometimes grind slightly.
My 2009 Vue developed a coolant leak into the oil at 130k km. I had to have replaced. GM has a technical note about this exact problem with the recommended fix: Engine Replacement. The coolant was leaking into the oil at the water pump.
The Statement from the dealership states that there was a crack in the block near the water pump. The dealership was good but a block should not break like this. Is this a design defect with the block, and if so is their a class action already started?
I recently bought a 2013 Prius v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon) . The car has been in a front end accident but it has been fixed. When buying the car, i did not notice that the coolant in it was green.
I know that prii of this year run on Toyota pink, and I have also read that mixing coolant can lead to sludging and clog your system. So now I am trying to do a total flush and refill. I already have the pink coolant and I was able to drain about 5 qt (7.3 qt total capacity) from the radiator cock. I know about the existence of an engine block cock which would allow me to drain the rest of the coolant. But no matter how much I look I can not locate it.
I have read the repair manual, I know that is is supposed to be in the back of the engine half way up the block or so. But I just cant find it. I can't fill my car until I can do a proper flush.