Camry :: Gas Light Is Not On But 2004 Toyota Pretty Low On Gas
Aug 7, 2014
I purchased a 2004 Toyota Camry Limited Edition in very good condition. The vehicle has 175,000 miles on it but runs just like new. The previous owners must have taken very good care of it because inside and out it looks brand new. It runs great, and the only thing I have had to do so far is replace the a/c relay to get the a/c blowing cold again. This is my question. I decided to test my fuel economy, so i filled the tank with premium gasoline 91 octane.
I reset the trip ODO, and have only driven the car in the city. With the A/C always running, I usually drive anywhere from 4 to 6 miles a day during the week and maybe about 12-15 on the weekend. Well i am down to about an 8th of a tank, the gas light is not on yet but it is pretty low on gas.
According to my trip ODO I have driven 240 miles. Now if this car has a 18.5 gallon tank, that means that with premium gas I am getting about 13 miles a gallon. Even for city driving, that seems just terrible. My 1999 Ford Taurus SE with a DOHC V6 gets 17 and my camry is not even a V6. So I am wanting to know what could be causing this? The car runs perfect, it doesn't miss at all, it sounds great and the oil has been changed and it has great tires.
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When the cruise light flashes the engine ideals at a lower RPM. Usually not a big deal, but when I'm in reverse the car will often stall out. The flashing light comes and goes without apparent cause.
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I just purchased a 2004 toyota camry limited edition about a month ago. During the last week off and on while the air conditioning is on it will quit cooling and the a/c light will flash on and off until I turn it off. Sometimes I can turn it back on and it will stay on, sometimes it will do it again. Sometimes I can get in the car, turn it on, and it just stays on and doesn't flash at all even on long trips. Anytime the a/c is on, the air is perfectly cold. It's only when the light is flashing that it quits cooling. Today is the first day that it did it multiple times on the way home from work.
By the time I got to my drive way though it wasn't going off and flashing but was once again staying on and cooling perfectly. Since I just purchased the car and have car payments on it, I am not rolling in dough. I have read a few posts that it's possibly the compressor but since mine blows so cold when it's on I do not think that is my problem...then again I could be wrong.
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02 Camry with rear disc and drum in hat for the parking brake.
i removed the rotors when doing the pads and found the parking brake shoe to be pretty skinny. Unlike regular drum brake shoes...
Then checked some pictures in google, i appears that parking brake shoes are by design pretty thin?
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I noticed recently that on my 2007 Camry i4 @ 110k miles, engine rattles pretty noticeably when I have the AC on AND while on reverse. Once I either turn off the AC or shift to D drive the rattle is no more. This noise is pretty consistent.
Not sure if this is a common problem, but could this be a problem with the water pump/alternator?
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My new 2014.5 Camry SE is awesome. I miss some things from my 2009 Altima Hybrid, but overall I'm happy I replaced it.
One thing I've found kind of odd is that I have a bit of a hard time closing the trunk. In most other cars I've had just pressing the trunk down gently will latch it (even if not fully closed) and it doesn't take much force at all to fully close. On my Camry, though, I feel like I have to slam it down pretty hard to get it to latch.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry LE, and the seat belt light keeps on flashing and the airbag light is solid. We have tried literally everything possible, tried replacing the seat, replaced the seats sensors, tried a airbag module out of another 07 camry with exact same part #. Toyota have diagnosed that all the systems for airbag is fine, except it has something to do with the seat belt of the drivers side/or module but all that's been checked and still no luck. My car is due for Safety inspecting coming month and need this to fixed. How to handle this. Btw light came on because we had a blown fuse for the drivers power seat, and my mechanic thought that it was the motor so we replaced the seat and noticed that it wasn't the motor. Was just the fuse and we put back the original seat and everything is functional except the lights came on. No accidents on it to the extent i know. and the wiring is all plugged back properly without anything like wiring damage.
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My turning light needs a bulb replacement (I believe, since when I click to turn right it makes quicker clicking sounds). Does this mean bulb is out or wiring is out?
As for the side light (also on the right) has fallen off and can no longer be screwed back in place as that part has broken off so I will be buying the replacement part/lamp. However, when it fell, the wiring was disconnected so i have lost the bulb and any connection to it. I think I still have the rubber wiring harness, just missing the wiring & bulb.
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I have a 2008 XL 4.2 auto trans with 60,000 miles on it. We purchased a new travel trailer with a total weight just under 5000 lbs that we pulled for about 2000 miles this summer. On the last trip we noticed the truck was missing pretty bad going up hills or under load. After we got home I started to notice the miss at times even not towing. Did a tune up with Motocraft plus and wires and seems to still have a miss at an idle and very low RPM. What would be best to check next?? Would Coil be logical?
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I just had the rear air compressor suspension replaced, but when it activates it sounds pretty noisy. It doesn't sound normal. What the heck is going on?
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I just replaced my drivers side wheel bearing that was squealing pretty bad. After replacing it I now have the same noise only consistent where before it was only when I turned the wheel to the right. I noticed the teeth in the cv shaft where a little warn down when I changed the hub. Now also along with that noise I'm getting a clunking sound. Should I just change the cv shaft or is there something else I need to be looking at?
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I'm not sure if I've just gotten used to the sound of the car or what but lately, it seems like the engine is ticking pretty loudly. It runs perfectly and I didn't think much of it until my friend commented on it. Sounds like it is coming from the drivers side (mainly).
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I am pretty new to Toyota Prius. Today I went to test drive a jap import 2nd Gen 1.5 Prius with 50k miles. What I found weird with the car was that, on the startup the petrol engine also started and it was on for the duration I was driving. I then turned on the EV mode and the petrol engine turned off but looking at the battery capacity on the screen, the battery drained pretty quickly possibly (2-3 minutes) and the petrol engine kicked in. Is this normal for 2nd gen prius cars ?
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I have a 1998 F150 5.4L 4WD with 192k mi on it. Recently ( suddenly ) the vehicle began shuttering pretty alerting under light load at 35 - 45mph. The engine idle was intermittently smooth then rough. I quickly drove the truck home and ran a Trouble Code check with my Autoxray EZ-scan 4000 and found the two trouble codes P0302 and P0171. I have checked for vacuum hose cracks and found none.
Replaced the fuel filter, PCV valve, and cleaned the MAF sensor ( dirty ).
Right after cleaning the MAF sensor the idle remained smooth - but stumbling immediately when put in drive. Driving at 35-45mph still exhibits intermittent shuttering and occasional very short bursts of what feel like complete engine shut-down. This all is evident under light to moderate load .
At this point what would you recommend ? Replacing the O2 sensor bank #1 ? Or is there a possibility maybe the EGR valve is faulty - or another vacuum valve somewhere ? Intake manifold leak ?
The severe stumbling and very short complete engine shut downs would indicate that maybe the computer is failing or it's a fuel delivery issue? What rational steps to take next ?
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this light comes on intermittently and does not go off unless engine is turned off, and then it goes out.
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My wife just called who is out of town. The engine light just came on our 1999 Toyota Camry. The car is driving fine, the car temp is very normal. Is it critical to get it checked our right away? Or can we wait until she gets home? Is it OK to drive around? She is 70 miles from home visiting for a day and a half and will come home tomorrow.
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I have a 2004 Toyota Camry XLE with the 2.4 Engine. When I am driving the car it runs fine. When I stop the Idle goes way down if the AC is Running. What could be causing this problem?
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I just recent bought a 2012 Toyota Camry LE and it seems to have had fog lights installed (not stock ,as far as my research has proven) and the LED on the switch is green and never shuts itself off. I'm not sure if this is normal. I have a decent mechanical background and never see anything other than security lights on when the key if off and out of the ignition. Seems like it may be a little wrong wiring. I checked the DIY OEM install of the fog lamps, but nothing there stood out to me as a cause for the light to remain on.
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I recently had to change the dome light in our 2012 Toyota Camry so I took some pictures and wrote a simple how to guide. The interior light assembly should be the same for 2007-2012. I definitely recommend changing to an LED light while you are at it, they last longer and are brighter. The OEM bulb number is DE3175 but I hear a lot of people like the PUTCO 231125 LED replacement bulb.
The dome light replacement guide is here How to Change Toyota Camry Dome Light .......
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I recently accidentally drove my Camry into curb in a parking lot. It was only a light, but since then I've noticed a grinding sound ONLY when turning right. Everything else seems fine. I looked under the car and saw the black plastic casing under the car is cracked and it looks like it might be grinding against the left tire, which could cause that noise. I've also heard it could be a bearing, but would that suddenly happen immediately after an encounter with a curb?
I do plan on taking it to the shop, but I have to wait at least a week until I get paid. I'm guessing that should be okay.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Camry that has a unique problem. The Check Engine light NEVER comes on even when first starting the car. I have access to a scanner and know that the car periodically throws a catalyst code but the light never comes on. I just assumed that the bulb was burned out.
Today while solving a non-working clock issue I had to take the instrument cluster to get to the clock. While I had it out I decided to check the Check Engine Light bulb. It looked fine so I took I replaced it with a bulb that I knew worked fine. Again, nothing. The bulb doesn't light at all. About 4 weeks ago my timing belt broke while driving (non-interference motor) and it threw a code for the camshaft position sensor but again the light never came on.
Why the light never comes on?
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