Camry :: Gas Gauge Is Fluctuating Up And Down At Startup
Sep 8, 2015
My gas gauge is moving up and down like when I start up the car the gas indicator will go down to the middle when my gas is full. My car is a 2003 toyota camry.
View 2 RepliesMy gas gauge is moving up and down like when I start up the car the gas indicator will go down to the middle when my gas is full. My car is a 2003 toyota camry.
View 2 RepliesWhen I give my car some gas my boost gauge fluctuates a lot and doesn't hold, I have an OEM piston style dv revision d I believe, and I have a catch can and also a blow off valve, and I'm stage 2. I was thinking of getting an awe diverter valve?
View 13 RepliesMy brother has a '92 K1500 5.7L in which he had a leaking water pump. He replaced it with an Autozone unit. After replacing the pump, he now states he is experiencing fluctuating temperatures on the gauge. He has little heat at the heater, even after letting the truck idle and after driving it. This was not a problem prior to replacing the water pump. He has put approximately 200 miles on since the replacement and it has been about 2 weeks since he replaced it. He believes he has all the air out of the system, as he has checked the overflow container and radiator several times and the coolant level has not gone down.
This now "suddenly" appears after the pump replacement, we are thinking it is not the temperature gauge sensor or bad thermostat. We are thinking possibly still air in the system or water pump cavitation.
Have a problem with the coolant gauge on their Passat? The temperature gauge on my 02 Passat sometimes reads normal (190) when I am driving and then all of a sudden it will drop back to 90. My first guess was the sending unit, but the dealer says it might be the gauge cluster too. I would think that if it was the gauge cluster the other gauges would act up too. ?
View 7 RepliesI recently had some issues getting my 2000 Blazer LS started. It would act as though the battery was dying. But if I let it set a few moments, it would start right up. Then a couple days later, I needed a jump start to get it going. I took it to my local Auto Zone to have the alternator tested because the battery was only 3 years old. (It was a 5 year battery.)
They determined that it was the battery. So I went to Walmart and bought a 700 CCA battery. And today the gauge is fluctuating again.... Considering it is cold and snowing here, heat, wipers, and rear defrost tend to be essential. But if I try to run all of them, the gauge dumps. And causes everything to bog down. I do not have any aftermarket electronics installed in the truck. And until last Thursday, this was not an issue.
So today we were driving back home and the oil gauge start fluctuating rapidly. However it would only fluctuate when the engine speed was slow, like when you are at an idle in gear. Once I gave it some throttle the needle came back to normal. Also while making a turn the needle stayed steady as well, which made me think that it isn't a low level situation,(plus I did verify the oil level once I came to a stop).
I keep reading about oil pressure sending units going bad. I just so happen to an extra aftermarket sending unit and gauge from summit racing laying around, so I'll hook that up tomorrow and see about what the pressure actually is at idle. I hope that it is just a small problem. Whats the pressure supposed to be for the 4.0 OHV at idle anyway.
My son recently bought a 2012 GLS. The temp gauge was fluctuating and I noticed the overflow was really low. I added coolant and warmed the car up with no change. After it cooled a little, I cracked the radiator cap and heard bubbling air. Upon complete removal of the cap, I saw no fluid, however, the cap is above the radiator where the hoses connect. I added coolant directly to this opening until I could see it. Closed everything up and warmed up the car. Temp gauge is now steady 1 mark below half way. The question is, did I add enough coolant? and should I see coolant inside the radiator cap when the vehicle is cold?
View 15 RepliesThe A/C on my hand-me-down '99 Lumina has never been outstanding, but has kept the Florida summers at bay. I recently turned it on again (I only ran it once or twice this winter) and the system was empty. I refilled it and it was empty again in 72 hours. I was hoping the seals had just dried out, but it continues to empty after several other attempts to recharge it, including adding 134a with lubricants. I added 134a with UV dye in it and the only leak I found is around the compressor clutch. I accept that the compressor probably has to go, but am puzzled by the manifold gauge readings taken when I added the last can. I just don't want to put in a new compressor and find out that wasn't the only problem.
With the system off, both High and Low sides read just under 70. (Normal Low and High side operating pressures for this car are listed at 42 and 340 respectively.) When the system is turned on, Low drops to 30 and High goes to 80 and there is no air cooling. After 30 seconds the High side slowly climbs to 200 and the Low side slowly drops to 26, with almost no air cooling. When the High side hits 200, it drops back down to 80 and the Low side goes back to 30. After 30-45 seconds it does it again and keeps repeating. The compressor clutch stays engaged the whole time. I looked in the Haynes A/C Techbook as well as online and can't find anything that resembles this description. If this is just symptomatic of a bad compressor, or is there more evil afoot? Also, while I have the system open are there any parts I should replace at the same time given the age of the system?
I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee L6 4.0 Liter automatic with 223,000 miles.
The oil pressure usually runs around 1/8-1/4 when driving around town and now I am getting temperature spikes. I had the coolant and water pump replaced last fall when I was having similar idling issues then. My coolant isn't a perfect green color--it is a little bit grey, but it is full. I cleaned the entire throttle body last January, cleaned the IAC today, and redid the NSS this week (not that this probably matters, just being thorough in my explanation).
It seems to happen worst on hot days (of course) when idling in traffic for a few minutes and makes the air conditioned air run warmer than it should.
Is this a busted radiator? The mechanic said I did not have a leak when I had him check last week.
I have an 08 Hyundai Santa Fe. Check engine light comes on, fuel gauge goes from empty to full, to half, to 1/4, just all over the place. Even ran out of gas a few times on the side of the road not knowing how much fuel I have.
What exactly causes this problem? I've heard "fuel sender" I've heard "fuel pressure sensor" etc. All are different parts. Need to get this repaired asap.
So I recently bought a 2010 Chevy Silverado LTZ with 31,000 miles (5.3l engine). After having the truck a few days, I have noticed a couple of problems ...
1) I have noticed there is a rough idle in the passenger seat while the truck is in drive. Once the truck is started and driven about 5 minutes, once you come to a complete stop in drive (ex. stop light) a rough idle over takes the truck. You can feel this idle a lot more in the passenger seat than in the driver seat. The RPM gauge also fluctuates during the rattle.
2) At night my the headlights flicker randomly, on and off very quickly.
3) In the morning when I start the truck and drive it a bit, I hear a rattle which sounds like it is coming from the front right of the truck. Bumps do not trigger this rattle, which usually only lasts a couple seconds. I usually hear the rattle between 1,000 and 1,200 rpms.
I have taken the truck into the shop 2 times to get these items fixed, and they said they cannot feel a rough idle.
I have a 97 Splash with the 3.0, oil pressure goes up to about the middle of the gauge after startup, however, it stays there whatever I do, warm/cold, idle/5500 rpm. Is it supposed to be like that?
View 4 Replies97 f250 4.6l engine pegs the temp gauge after start-up. the oil pressure light comes on then after a few miles down the road anti-freeze blows out the pressure cap (15LB) then the temp goes down ,the oil light goes off and everything is normal. no its not the thermostat, i changed that and it still does it. whats up with that?
View 14 RepliesNot too long ago I came across the TSB 0041-13 for the 2.5L startup rattle. I believe I have that rattle, heard it for years, never thought much about it. Of course, I'm out of warranty... So my question is, can I just ignore this? It's just a bit minor startup noise, goes away after a second.
I mean, it's my wife's car, and she hasn't even noticed. Also, just what is it that does the rattling? Just the camshaft rattling around inside the VVT actuator, until pressure builds up and holds it in place?
I just purchased a hid kit with relay harness i installed everything and double checked wires/connections etc.. and everything is correct when I turn on my lights they flicker on startup but the driver side will continue to flicker a little bit. I tried buying another kit swapping ballasts/ switching lights left side to right and still the driver side will continue to flicker what can i do?
View 14 RepliesSearch for this problem gets lots of hits. >>IF<< it only happens on day's first startup, that it is actually normal for a car like my 2002 Camry LE 4 Cylinder.
Just wanted to hear some opinions, not about a constant problem but if it only happens on first startup and then no smoke is coming out of the exhaust pipe on subsequent starts.
Here is a video of my problem: [URL] ....
We have an older Camry (1996 V6) with 159K miles on it that we are going to use for my gf's daughter's first car. It sat unused for a while and her father is giving her the car. The issue is that when you initially start it you have to keep the foot on the gas or it will stall. It does a bit better when it warms up but it can still stall if you let off the gas quickly. The plug wires look quite new so I expect the plugs are new as well (will confirm with her dad). I pulled the throttle body and it doesn't seem to be very dirty but I will clean it anyway and change the air filter. What I did notice is when I pulled the vacuum line (I'm guessing that's what it is, I am not mechanic) it was split longitudinally through the clamp. I am going to replace the hose but am wondering if the throttle intake is fairly clean if this could be the cause of the rough idle. I've watched a video on-line that shows how to clean the throttle body.
The battery looks fairly new but I don't have my voltage meter to test it. I have cleaned all the connections because I have heard that a weak battery or bad connection can also affect the way the engine runs. This Camry doesn't have a voltage meter, only a dummy light. The light doesn't come on so I'm thinking we don't have a problem with not getting enough power to the computer.
SO the 04 Camry I bought slips when it sits a while, for about 2 seconds, then the transmission feels great. Its only after a long overnight and SOMETIMES when I go to leave work after 9 hours.... I am talking to the dealer now since its got less than 200 miles since I bought it... I am thinking a torque convertor leaking down?
View 5 RepliesCold starts only (warm starts completely fine), typically the rpm jumps to 2k or so then slowly climbs down as engine warms up. However recently one in ten start ups the rpm will jump to 2k then immediately drop to 1.5k (sounds like a drop in rev engine) or so. Engine does not shake or stall and still starts fine. Throttle body is cleaned and spark plugs were all replaced. However I cannot remember if this started happening before throttle body was cleaned or if its not related with it at all. Battery is fine too or according to battery charge test. I don't see any loose hose that were taken off while getting to throttle body. I recently tried fuel injector cleaner but didn't make much difference (only 1 application though).
View 5 RepliesHave a "06 Solara V6, 82K conv. and it's started making a swishing sound under the hood especially upon startup. Sounds like a belt may be rubbing.
View 1 RepliesMy 2011 Camry LE I4 with 21k miles has a slight knock after cold startup, at Idle for a few minutes that disappears after warming up. If you start and drive and don't let it warm up the knock, under load, is more pronounced.
View 3 Replies