Camry :: Gas Pedal Not Responding Code P2119?
Jan 16, 2016
This car had this problem about 4 years ago when my father in law owned it He had the dealer fix it and they replaced the gas pedal assembly i checked that and it is ok if i shut off the car and restart it the pedal works fine or about 15 seconds then back to idle
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We have a 2007 Camry and today the car died. We got a jump and it started right up. After the car turned over......and was running....the Check engine light came on and nothing happened when we hit the gas pedal. The car will go into both reverse and drive and idle forward and back.....but still the gas is not responsive.
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I have a 95 GMC Vandura 2500 with 91000 miles. Yesterday, I got in my truck in the morning (engine was cold) and started it up. It started up fine and backed out of the driveway fine, but when I put it in drive and pressed on the gas, it was unresponsive. I kept trying the gas and it eventually worked. I kept driving, and it happened a couple more times when I would push on the gas and nothing would happen, and then it would kick in. When the engine warmed up, it seemed to happen less. I need to get this fixed because I'm trying to sell the truck.
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I have a Nissan Murano 2004 SL AWD.I got the car last year and since I got the car, my gas pedal was not working properly during certain condition. You would think my car is haunted, believe me!
The main problem is: after driving for 30 minutes, when I come to a complete stop, my gas pedal does not respond directly. I have to press the gas pedal all the way and release it for the car to start driving.The more I do this process after the problem occurs, the more time the gas pedal will respond after I completely floor it. For example, after 15 minutes of such problem occurring, I need about 2.5 seconds for the gas pedal to work after flooring it. After 30 min of the problem occurring, I need about 3 sec. to 3.5 sec. and on a hill, the respond time takes even longer!
Now here is the funny part...I have notice that whenever it's hot outside, the problem with my gas pedal does not occur after 30 minutes but it will occur after less time, maybe after 15 to 20 minutes of driving.When it's colder like during the winter the problem will occur after 40 minutes of driving.
Here is another funny thing. When my gas pedal start acting up, if I go to park my car and turn my engine off for about... 5 to 10 minutes, less or more, the gas pedal starts working again for the next 10 to 15 minutes before acting up again.
I really want to fix it.It's not bothering me sometimes but today I was at a red light on a hill and my car just did not accelerate at all for about 3 seconds while my car was sliding down and people beeping at me. It's really getting me irritated!
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My car 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3 litre's throttle pedal stopped responding and the check engine light turned on I scanned the codes came back bad TPS and Pedal Position Sensor so I changed both disconnected the positive battery terminal but still no throughout pedal response and I'm getting P2106, P1295, P0638 and pending codes P0222 and P2135. I'm at a complete loss as to what to do.
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My girlfriends Toyota Echo has been giving her problems it seems. She says that it will randomly not respond to the pedal being pushed. She's not great with cars, but says she doesn't hear it revving. I was thinking dirty fuel filter, but I would think it would be running rough all the time if it was clogged? What it could be?
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I have tried to program 2006 Toyota camry for remote key activation .. but after all the steps completions the locks are not responding to activate the remote key.
Have tried many times as shown in videos but car not responding.
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The experts who are installing the dash wiring harness on my camry (not exaggeration they really are that good) installed everything perfectly with the exception of the dash not responding. The dash is connected properly but none of the lights nor gauges are reacting. The car turns on and all is good except for this.
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I have a 2011 Camry LE and recently both rear door locks stopped responding to any form whether using the key fob or driver door controls(I have to manual lock and unlock the rear doors)However the rear windows work fine, which indicates the rear doors receiving power. This is really inconvenient. Looking for a clue to what's going on? Only the front doors (driver and front passenger) are operating properly.
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I mentioned earlier that a rat got at some wires in my truck. I took few things apart and the only visible issue with wires I could find , besides my hid set up, was an engine coolant temperature sensor which threw P0118 code. Can this or those other codes p2111, 2119 will prevent the car from running? It starts? And then after a second or two dies. I'm wondering if prolonged short of the buttery could have caused a burn to some fuses associated with the throttle body control system? I looked at fuse box and can't figure out what solunoid/fuses are associated with the throttle system.
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My 08 2.4l sonata gls won't start. I started it this morning to warm it up while I cleared off all the snow, it was running for about ten minutes. I turned it off and about twenty minute later went to start it and it will not catch. All the electronics are running and the engine turns over but it won't start. I replaced the battery in December, the oil was changed last week as well as the air filter. It has 93k miles on it. What could be the problem? I did go borrow a diagnostic scanner and it is throwing a P2110 P2118 and P2119 code.
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We have a 2007 Camry SE, 4 cyl with about 85k miles on it. Recently we noticed the gas pedal vibrates when we take off from a stop. The vibration lasts only at slow speeds. It literally feels like someone strapped on a cell phone in vibrate mode on the gas pedal. Planning on taking it to the dealer soon.
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I have a 2005 with 206,000 miles and the check engine light came on. The code reads "pedal position" but local mechanics are not knowledgeable to deal with electronics. The check engine light has been sporadic off and on so is this serious?
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Can not seem to get the memory to work.....?
The dealer is suggesting the module is bad and is ordering one to address the problem.
Cannot get the mirrors to respond to the setting as well?
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The brake pedal is a little too high for my tastes, and I'd like to lower it a good inch. How I can do this.
I'm not sure if any Camrys come with adjustable brake pedals, but mine appears to not, and it's an XLE, which leads me to think they don't.
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I've had this problem ever since the car was new but it's starting to get MUCH worse The brake pedal travels a lot before it seems to engage I just got an oil change done at the dealership who also flushed the trans fluid and told me my rear brakes had 0mm left
I came home and replaced the brakes, they had Nothing left Also replaced the rotors while I was at it, put everything together and the pedal is still soft Took it back to a dealership and they said it's normal and that a brake flush / bleed wouldn't do anything Pads were replaced with Duralast semi - metallic and rotors were Duralast
Now a couple things I noticed when I replaced the brakes:
1 - The slide pins were seized I cleaned them with brake cleaner, lubed them and they seem to slide now Rubber seals also seem fine Good enough or replace the caliper mount / pins?
2 - The brake pads sit on the caliper in this metal groove All other cars I've worked on, the pads can slightly slide These pads are jammed in place on these pins I cleaned them with brake cleaner, took a wire brush to them until they looked new, lubed them and pads slide with force but for the most part are jammed in place
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'97 Toyota Solara Convertible V6. Car starts fine, idles good. However, NO acceleration. When the gas pedal is pressed RPM gage moves up to 1200 from 1000 RPM. Car will move up to 5 mph. Engine lite is on full time. A/C if fine, radio is fine, all headlights fine, good dash lights. Have not checked the fuses because I assume to get this far they must be good.
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I replaced my MC, and still soft pedal, when I bench bleedI noticed that the screw in plugs to fit the tubes over it to bench bleed it, they both were loose and when I was bleeding it a lot air bubbles was goin thru the tubes, so I tighten the screws and belled it again this time I bleed it till no bubbles, installed the MC and we bleed the brakes, and still soft peddle, we are going o bleed again tomorrow. Were we supposed to bleed until the new fluid comes out? and if you can what is the best way to bleed the brakes?
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I have a 2001 accent manual transmission. Last week I noticed it is to weak NO POWER. The engine is not responding, too slow..to go 60 km or 40 miles/hour I have to shift fast to 4 gear. My car is 200,000 and my mechanic told me, I have a bad clutch...
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This happened a few times on my 2006 Prius but never for this long. I had a half tank of gas. Filled it up (maybe a little too much). Now the gauge is stuck on a half tank even thought it is actually filled.
I drove 55 miles and it still reads a half tank. Is this indicative of a systemic problem or normal operations? It is cold here in the North East US. So I'm sure that has something to do with the gauge not resetting?
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3 days ago I went to open car ( 2008 gen II ) with keyfob - got red led on fob when pressing door open but no indicator lights flash or door servo click, also same with spare keyfob ( both keyfobs have good batteries ) - so I manually tried all the doors to check if one had been left partially closed as I know this will cause a non response from the keyfob, then I used the manual key to open driver door which it did ( servo functioned properly but when opening the door the alarm went off so had to put keyfob in ignition/press start & only after several seconds did the car shut report ready mode. This was a bit emabarrising as there was a film crew next door in the middle of a shoot ( cringe mode - oops !! as I sneakily drove past them in stealth mode...well nearly ! ) . This has not happened again so far.
Anyway cant find any posts here with exact same issue only issues pertaining to the 12v aux battery which I personally replaced 3 months ago with a standard lead acid as the old one was reporting 9.7v along with the intermittent red triangle hybrid system dashboard warning ( yes I know I am meant to use a glass matt type but hey the battery is tucked away in a deep boot cavity & I would worry more about the bad hybrid battery pack under the back seat hitting me first in a serious rear end collision as opposed to a litre or so of acid ).
Having this problem with the locked doors not responding to the keyfob ?, my own personal viewpoint is that I neglected to properly close the drivers door as shortly afterwords the wind done it for me and perhaps placed the car into some sort of lockdown mode ?
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