Replaced all components of front right braking system. Calipers rotor pads and hoses. Still, every other day or so the front right brakes gradually start locking up within minutes of driving.
I just bought car. I am stuck with this problem now. Only thing left i'm told is replacement of abs module.
Can you just bypass a faulty abs module instead of replacement?
My husband noticed that our 2001 Camry was driving strange. He thought it was a problem with the brakes locking up. When I drove it, I felt like the front of the car was a little wiggly and thought we might need an alignment. When we took it in, they said that the brakes are okay, but that the front struts are "soft." They said that the front struts need to be replaced, which includes an alignment, and we should replace the rear struts at the same time. They said we should get new tires at the same time.
I've been trying to research it some, and we don't have a lot of the problems associated with bad struts. We haven't noticed any bouncing or anything like that. I think they are honest mechanics, but my husband doesn't trust them. We don't have enough money to get all that work done right now, so my question is, can we wait until we notice bouncing or the tires get worse to have the work done? (We would be trying to save up the money in the meantime.) Or, can we just take care of the front struts and wait on the tires and rear struts? Should we just get a second opinion? (The car does have 145,000 miles on it, and I've never had the struts replaced. I bought it with about 65,000 miles on it.)
I have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
View 1 RepliesWhat would cause this? The brakes work fine until you get into that range of brake pressure in which the abs wants to kick in. The brakes then lock up(may be only front driver), the pedal sinks to the floor, and don't disengage until the car is at a complete stop. It does this with esp on or off.
The previous owner changed a front wheel sensor and bled the brakes. The abs module fuse under the battery cover was melted but not blown.
VCDS shows no codes. I did not do output test on pump, didn't have my laptop with me.
Abs pump bad?
Mc?
Servo?
Caliper?
Brake line?
I bought this car 2 weeks ago and the previous owner failed to let me know about the problem and it happened to me a mile down the road after purchasing the car. I started to notice a lot more because of the rain and snow recently. It's definitely an uneasy feeling. I really don't wanna drive the car till it's sorted.
I have a 1996 Toyota Camry, I was having a noise from right rear and every now and then the car would start slowing down like I was braking. I replaced all four calipers, rotors and the pads, then bled the whole system. The noise went away, but the car still seems to engage the brakes, but only after a few minutes of driving, but then it goes away.
I thought it was a single brake line, but after not driving it for a week, yesterday I was driving it and after about 20 minutes it started again, when I pulled over all for wheels were smoking, after allowing it to sit for a few minutes, I was able to drive home 30 miles without it happening again. Would this happen with just one line bad, as someone suggested, or is this an issue with the master cylinder, bad brake fuild or something else?
Today I had a wonderful experience at the morning session of the Auto X school at Waterfest 19. It was my first autocross experience and, man, it was a blast. I couldn't believe the car I've been daily driving for three years has so much untapped potential!
Anyway, I had a bit of a technical issue that was holding me back. I got my first two runs in with the instructor on board; I was slow but had no issue. Then, the instructor took the wheel to show me how it was done and ended up spinning the car out on a section of the course with back to back 90's turns, turn #2 having a reducing radius. It felt as if the brakes just locked up and the back end just came all the way around. Once I got back in and had more of a grasp of the car's ability, I experience the same issue and had a few spin outs of my own, in glorious clouds of white smoke.
The feeling is like the car locks the brakes, the brake pedal travels further to the floor, and the throttle is disabled until the car settles again. It even happened once or twice without pressing the brake at all; just engine braking and hard turning in, the brakes locked with no interaction with the brake pedal.
I've been able to duplicate the experience by "panic braking" in the straight line. When the car begins to skid, letting off the pedal will not disengage the brakes and the throttle will be deactivated until the car settles.
What would cause this? ESP was off, but do our cars have a yaw sensor or some system that will still apply the brakes when the car is at its limit? I searched but didn't find much. The car is on stock suspension.
I have a 1988 gmc c2500 with brake problems. the front brakes keep locking up both sides. Have replaced the calipers rotors pads and the brake lines. I can bleed them off and they release but has soon has you it the brakes they lock up again.
View 8 RepliesFront and back brakes heating up and locking on intermittently brake pedal feels normal this has happened 3 times over the last 500 km of driving pedal not sticking down break fluid ok no swelled lines today noticed front left and rear right rotors were hotter than front right and rear left once vehicle sits they release and all is good no abs lights or any other warning lights on.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Forester, recently noticed the front brakes locking up, especially on hot days. Completely immobilized car, to get going again I would have to wait for them to cool and/or cool them with water if pads smoking from trying to drive with brakes engaged, and tap on calipers and master cylinder to allow pads to release. Problem got worse as it got hotter out, due to job I rarely drive car and didn't get in for service yet. Last time pads burned a whole lot and braking felt odd (less pressure and uneven like rotors were messed up or pads burned up).
Took it into brake place, they had never seen before. When they inspected, discs were in bad shape with one cracked, but I don't think that was original problem, just caused by driving with them hot. Shop at first said fluid seemed clean but I left and later they said it was contaminated but I don't trust them. Shop solution is replace everything: calipers, pads, hoses, flush system, and replace ABS (the most expensive part I am hoping isn't actually necessary). I don't trust shop for several reasons including because they admitted having never seen this and seemed content to take maximum amount of money just to replace everything without knowing what actual problem was.
I have been having hub locking trouble and finally located a bad vacuum hose. Hose has been replaced. Now when I engage the 4WD and apply a little power, I get a terrible bang out of the front end, then the truck moves on. Sometimes there is a second bang, sometimes not. The chain appears tight in the transfer case and the ujoints look ok. I have turned the wheels with hubs locked one at a time and the joints are free.
View 9 Replies2008 F-350 wheel will lock for no reason. I think the Hydroboost has a hair line crack it and when the temp and pressure reach a certain number then it sends brake fluid threw the crack to the caliper? I also heard it could be in the ABS because its locking just one wheel?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 F250 King Ranch FX4. I have an odd problem that I am trying to get to the bottom of. We went on a 2,500 mile road trip last year and I noticed on the way home my steering wheel had worked it's way off center counter-clockwise at a perfect diagonal. I had gotten an alignment right before we left and it was perfect center at that point.
I took it back in when I got home and had a tire rotation and another alignment. Within a week the wheel was off again to the same degree, counter-clockwise at a perfect diagonal.
Two weeks ago... tired and annoyed of driving like this, I crawled under the truck and adjusted the steering wheel to center via the drag link adjustment. I tightened everything down tight and this lasted all of three days.
Wat would cause this? Tires are wearing normally, alignment checks out and it tracks straight. I do see some grease like leakage where the pitman arm meets the top of the drag link and again have some small grease where the drag link connect to the passenger side tire. I lifted the front end and tried to move/wiggle the tires and I have no movement... everything is solid. The truck never wanders when on the road... steering wheel is just off.
Truck only has 90k on it of highway miles and an easy life thus far. I am not hard on the truck.
Initially when I start driving, the brakes work just find. But it seems as I use the brakes, the front brakes build up pressure and slowly start to lock up. They don't lock up completely, but they do cause a significant amount of drag. The rotor, calipers, rubber hoses and master cylinder are all very new. I'm thinking maybe the issue is with the master cylinder and am considering going to get one along with a brake booster(since it doesn't have one currently).
View 14 RepliesI have a 1999 f250 super duty, that was wrecked a few months ago. I have put the truck back together with the mechanic. The front drivers side was wrecked. The power steering fluid tank was cracked and had to be replaced. Also had problems with a box behind the drivers headlight? I did hard wire it together and it fixed the problems i was having the the speedometer and the transmission not shifting correctly.
Everything is put back together now but I drove it today and the brakes locked down after driving it a few miles? Had to push the truck hard to get it back to my house, a mile or so. If i let off the gas it would come to a quick stop. It is ALL four brakes locking up. If it sits for awhile they unlock but will lock up again after driving. The truck is lifted and the ABS light has come on.
It was not on before but i am pretty sure the ABS is disabled on the truck. the wires are hanging down by each tire. This is how they truck was when i bought it. Not sure what is causing the brakes to lock up.
I have a problem with my Camry 170k on the clock. Took it out a few nights back and the high idle was stuck on, after about an hour the idle gradually dropped to normal.
The next night it would not start and run unless I keep the accelerator pedal pressed slightly, after warming up it seems to run fine, The high idle has not returned
I have seen a few suggestion on cleaning the iac valve with Carbie cleaner, so I tried that and it made no difference.
Its the 5.4 ....its been an ongoing problem...first it wiuld happen once a month starting maybe a year ago. Turn the key off and try again and it would start up easily. Gradually became more frequent...maybe a couple times a week now and sometimes taking more than one attempt. It died on me while driving last week...started easily again. Today after driving i parked it and a few minutes later it would not start even after 10 or so attempts....waited 10 or so minutes and started right...killed it and restarted 5 times easily. Brought it home killed it and it would not restart.
Now its starting again......so i cant troubleshoot something that is not working. I ruled out fuel pump/regulator because it is either running good or not at all and also it would not start immediately after killing it. There should be engage pressure in the lines to do something but its either a start or no start situation. Its not showing codes either....so I am guessing that rules out sensors....? ......so i guess something is causing a no spark or a no fuel inj. Pulse......... I have a cam sensor i bought a few weeks ago and never put on trying to aviid being stranded.
So, I've been having cold start issues for a couple of years now especially when temps get below 25 or so. It started with virtually no issues until temps got into the 20's but got to the point this year where it run a little rough at startup even in the summer. Once ECT gets up around 140* it runs pretty good.
I took it to a diesel shop last year and was told I had 1 bad injector and a bad glow plug. I couldn't afford to do the work, so I waited.
Now after researching this site, I'm more inclined to think it may just be the FICM. I've seen scangauge numbers in the low 20's up to 48.5. On cold morning FCM will usually start in the low 30's and gradually work up to upper 40's. The batteries were both replaced 2 years ago, but I probably should give them a load test. The alternator voltages vary from 11.0 to 12.5 when cold and 12.5 to 14 once warmed up. I have noticed that the AC blower will slow down a little when I sit at a red light, and then pick up again when taking off. I don't notice it with headlights or anything else.
According to Bismarc's spreadsheet, alternator numbers seem to be in the acceptable range, but I don't want to get a new FICM and fry it with a bad alternator. I can get the alternator or the FICM now, but if I need to do both at once I'll need to wait a bit longer.
Are there any tricks to replacing the front brake pads on a Hybrid?
View 2 Replies2000 Explorer 2WD. I had tons of front end issues that I have been working through. So far I have done upper control arms, upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, got an alignment. The steering/suspension system is in good shape now.
Now the only thing left is a scraping/grinding sound coming from the driver's side brakes. I mostly hear it at low speeds (taking off from lights, etc).
When I was doing all of the other work, I observed that the rotor is in great shape, brake pads look great. I am wondering if it is a caliper issue, maybe the caliper isn't releasing enough or something. What to check?
My wife has a 2005 toyota camry with about 84000 miles. She had been complaining of intermittent issues but no one could find the cause till yesterday. Her front brakes were froze and would not release. I took it to the shop and they said the left front was hung and the pad came off and chewed the rotor up. They suggested a brake job. Well in the process of replacing rotors and pads on the front they could not get the caliper to release. Make a long story short, the rotor and pads are changed but the front brakes will not release. They checked the lines and they look good.
View 7 RepliesI changed the front brake rotors & pads on my wife's 2009 Toyota Camry & everything seems fine except when doing sudden or slightly hard stops it seems to do a clunk/knock type sound from the front brakes. It also only does it sometimes not every hard/sudden stop.
One thing that comes to mind is that when I went to tighten one of the guide pin bolts it was a real pain, the big bolt that the screw threads into kept spinning making it hard to tighten the bolt into & none of the others did this. I thought I tightened it down but possibly not?