My rpm gauge goes crazy and the car flutters like it will die out when I'm at a stop. I have to punch the gas to keep it from dying. Engine light comes on. Took it o shop and they put it on the computer and it said it was a bad coil. I had the coil changed and the plugs. It's still doing it. What could it be?
View 3 RepliesBefore everyone starts telling me to get a tune or a proper intake I did this as an experiment. I will eventually get an intake, tune, dp, and exhaust however, that won't be until a few more paychecks arrive.
So I've been driving my car for a few months and not once did I hear the turbo. So I put in a forge spacer and that didn't last a week.While I was taking it off the spacer I put in the rev d diverter valve in. I keep driving it completely stock and decided to be an amateur and rig up the auto zone special intake in hopes to hear those sweet intake sounds. Windows up or down I still couldn't hear the intake. However, I did hear the dv flutter. I scanned for some codes and came up with nothing.
There is no heat shield. I understand what I've done just let me remind you this was an experiment and this is no longer on the car.
I put the stock airbox back in with a K&N high flow filter. I let the computer adjust then went romping around shifting at 6k with the windows down. Sure as **** no turbo swooshes.
Am I missing something? I've tried three different filters and one different intake style, still came up with nothing. Just to be sure I scanned the car again and no codes came up. I am now less concerned about the silly sound I once wanted, but now concerned if there is something wrong with my car.
I'm having a problem with my 2010 F150 4x4. I'm a mail carrier and when I'm stopped at mail boxes my truck flutters and and acts like it's not getting gas or not getting fire. If I give it gas it goes on. It may do this 1 time a day or 100 times a day. My check engine light has come on and then after awhile it will go off. The Ford dealership thinks it is an oil pressure problem but the oil pressure gauge doesn't drop when this happens.
View 9 RepliesI recently purchased a used 2006 Ford F-150 (5.4l RWD). I was fully aware of a problem with the brake rotors when I bought the truck from a dealership. They supposedly changed the rotors and the rotors appear to be new...But every time I brake the truck almost flutters in the front end. I haven't noticed vibration while on the highway, only when braking. I am worried because I can fix it I just cant seem to figure out what the problem is.
View 4 RepliesI've had this problem with my 08 v6 camry se recently: when i first start my car and stop at a stop light my transmission will seem to disengage or not switch gears properly resulting in me redlining and not being able to accelerate properly. shortly after everything returns back to normal and the problem goes away on its own never to return until i begin the process all over again.
View 5 Replies2006 Camry at low speed coasting down my driveway gently touching the brake to stop before turning out onto the road I hear what sounds like the ABS pump cycle and also hear a groaning noise from the front brakes. The pad and rotors are new ( I actually changed the front pads twice to no avail thinking the NAPA pads were to hard so, I put Toyota OEM pads on)
My wife has had problems also if she has to brake suddenly the car will not stop. She has had a couple close calls and has not had an accident yet.
We are not getting any warning in the way of the ABS light flashing.
Recently my Camry has been shaking when coming to a stop and shutting off. It feels similar to when a car runs out of gas. I replaced the battery less than a year ago. I don't know where to start.
View 3 RepliesEvery now and then (1-2 times a week) it stalls when I come to a stop. If I catch it before it stalls and rev it over 4K then it is fine. If not, I just need to restart the car. What is causing this sporadic problem?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Camry XLE with 43k miles. When i accelerate from stop too quickly its as if the car cannot shift gears or something quick enough. It just stutters and then picks up as if nothing happened? This only happens when accelerating from zero.
View 5 RepliesJust took my V6 03 XLE to a mechanic to change the timing belt, water pump, and spark plugs. Runs great, like it always did, and for the record I just got to about 80,000 miles a week or two ago.
One problem after I got this all done a couple of hours ago. Every time I try to accelerate from a complete stop there's this gurgling noise that sounds like it's coming from the inside of the dash or maybe under the dash.
It only happens as soon as I accelerate from a complete stop for about 2-3 seconds, and then it seems to go away.
I've got a 2010 Camry. I've had it since new and it's been pretty well maintained. Recently, I've been having an issue where it cuts like it wants to stall out when I stop after driving.
The idle will also surge, but it's a small surge, from like 750 rpm to 1,000 and then back to 750. Last night after driving, it dropped to around 500rpm for s second and I thought it was going to stall, but it didn't.
I love the car, so I'm hoping it's not a serious issue. 6 speed manual with about 130,000 miles. Other than this and a small exhaust leak, it's running great.
I bought my 2008 last year at 23,000 miles. They brake pedal will go pretty low to the floor and the brake pads do not bite good. Now at 40,000 miles is doing the same thing. I was in downtown a couple of times and I had to slam on the brakes as traffic is crazy. It would not stop and keep on rolling. It was really scary. I am pretty sure it has the original brake pads. I can change the pads but I have a feeling that there is air in the lines. The brake fluid in the reservoir has never dropped. I believe it has ABS. Anything special on 2008 model with ABS ? I will try to bleed it and also changed the pads. My question is, is it possible to have air in the lines at 23,000 miles ?
View 7 RepliesLast week I was changing the oil on my wife's 2004 Camry (130 000 kms). I noticed quite a LOT of corrosion around the positive and negative battery terminals.. so I decided to clean them.
I removed the negative without any problems but I could not get the positive off. I decided to use a hammer to move the connector back and forth. I was surprised with how much force I had to use to break the connector free.
Once I replaced the oil I tried to start the car but it would not start. I check the voltage and I was down to 10 volts. Obviously I had damaged the battery in getting the positive terminal off. A quick ride to the auto parts store and I had a new battery.
I installed the battery and took the car out for a spin. The car drives normally but it will NOT idle after it has been warmed up. If I come to a stop sign, the car will idle low and stall.
I have already verified that the battery is at full charge and the battery is being charged when the engine is running. No 'Check Engine' light has come on.
I have been hearing a sound on and off now for months that happens right before the car comes to complete stop and sounds like the ABS 'chatter' sound like you hear if they come on in snowy roads. Problem is roads are dry. Literally last 1 second. Will happen when stopping hard or slowly. Maybe once or twice a week. I can't reproduce it happen no matter how hard I try. Brakes are in good shape as are tires and it isn't like I am locking them up or anything. No ABS light or traction control light showing. No codes thrown either.
View 5 RepliesBought the Camry new in May 2006. Besides the oil hose leak (which a recall fixed), it's been a perfect car.
Fast forward to the present. I needed a brake job, so my master mechanic buddy installed front and rear powerslot rotors and akebono performance pads and flushed my brake fluid. No problems with the brakes.
A few weeks later I wanted to treat my car to a 90K full transmission flush (it's first transmission service). I had it flushed at a local toyota independent shop. They used WS fluid. A few hours later, my transmission which shifted perfectly fine before the flush started shifting weird. I thought the computer had to relearn my wife's driving style. When she brakes hard (if she's going 50 and the light turns yellow and she brakes hard, her car slows down normal, but right before it comes to a complete stop is when the car shakes. She said it started right after the transmission flush.
A few days later when she was at a red light, the car check engine lit up with a check battery (she thinks that's what it said on the screen). When the light turned green, it wouldn't accelerate, but it would roll forward when you let go of the brakes. When she got to a safe place to park/stop she turned off the car. A few minutes later she turned the car back on and it was fine.
I told that to one of my buddies who had something similar happen to him in his 06 Mustang GT, the Ford dealer cleaned his throttle bottle and maf sensor and he was on his way. I had my throttle body and maf cleaned. Now with new brakes, new brake fluid, a flushed transmission, a clean throttle body and maf, I thought everything was good.
On the freeway , the car would not shift to 4th gear or higher. So I exited the freeway, drove the surface streets to a independent Toyota shop. Left the car there all day, they could not find anything wrong. So, right now everything is back to normal except the shaking when you are almost at a complete stop, which started AFTER the transmission flush, what that might be?
To describe the shaking problem, imagine I'm driving 45-50, light turns yellow, I slow down, 50-20 is fine, maybe even 50-15 is fine, but the car shakes right before it fully stops.
I just bought a 2000 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder with 150K miles. It drove great for a week. Now it wants to cut off when I'm at a stoplight or stop sign. When I press the gas there is no acceleration and very sluggish. This is when it wants to cut off and does about half the time. At normal driving speeds it drives great. The Check engine light also came on. Advance Auto Parts store read the codes and it's P440, p441, p446 and P106. All have to do with evaporative emission control.
View 3 RepliesI want to understand this. If I am stopped, take hands off the wheel and do a jack rabbit start the wheel almost always turns right. Tried that on flat parking lots and roads cambered each way.
Tires are few months old, all suspension in order (reman rack and pinion + outer tie rods back in august). When cruising everything seems fine, the steering is centered and the car tracks straight.
I bought a 1996 Toyota Camry this summer. While I was away, my parents would start it every once in a while, and the last time they did the lights would not stop flashing. The hazard lights, glove box, clock are all flashing. I have the battery disconnected until I can figure it out.
View 1 RepliesMy 2012 Camry 2.4L is sometimes dangerously slow when accelerating from a stop. Totally intermittent. I can put my foot in the gas pedal and the car takes its sweet time getting up to speed. Almost like trying to start in 2nd gear in a standard transmission vehicle. I've had the torque converter software patch.
To be honest with you, this is a huge safety issue. Not sure I can trust my car to accelerate. My car has 44k miles and I've done all the scheduled maintenance and run only top tier fuel.
I have a 2.4L 2003 Camry. No modifications other than a new HU that's been in place for years. I do also have a Sirius radio that plugs into 12v socket.
About a year ago, the only speed that will work for my windshield wipers is the high speed. Every now and then, i can use the other speeds, but they will only work for a few seconds. Recently, I was driving the highway, and out of nowhere, with the wiper switch in the OFF position, my wipers started working. I had to switch it to the fast speed a few times then OFF to get them to stop.
Thinking it was a motor issue, i first took both arms off, then ran the wipers. They work perfectly. It's as if as soon as I put the arms back on, they become "too heavy" for the motor, and won't work in any of the other settings (I guess that's the best way that my mind makes sense of it.
I also experience the door lock issue (sometimes using the key fob will only lock/unlock 3 out of the 4 doors)...
We have a 1992 Toyota Camry which runs great except that it stalls at every stop light. We have had the engine, distributor, coil, coolant temperature sensor; computer, and EGR valve checked. Yesterday the mechanic stated there was nothing wrong with the EGR Valve, what to check next?
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