Camry :: Flashing Light On AC Switch - No Cold Air
Dec 4, 2013
S4. The a/c light on the dashboard switch (2002 V6) started flashing when the light should be solid steady light plus No Cold Air. I Google it and it directs me to several sites, people are saying just change the cabin filter and that often fixes it and if not change the a/c relay (disconnect the battery first they pointed out).
I got a new cabin air filter from O'Reilly for $14. (The PurolaterC35479 "breathe easy" fits 2002-2007 camry) To change it just empty your glove box and leave the door down. On the right side of the glove box hinge there's one philips screw. Remove that and wobble down the right side then pull out the glove box door.
Look straight in at the firewall behind that now you can see the slot the filter goes in its about 1" high by 8" wide. Yank out the old filter and carefully note the orientation of it as it comes out. Shove in your new filter. Replace glove box.
The light did not go out at first. It took about ten minutes running the fan turning the a/c switch off and on while driving but the a/c light finally stopped flashing and changed to a solid green light again, and the cold air came back.
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There have been two occurrences where the air conditioning has stopped blowing cold air (blows warm) and the indicator led on the switch is blinking on and off. This has happened twice, about a month apart. The air is generally plenty cold. Does this means the air is going out on my 2002 camry ?
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We have been having this ongoing issue with the ventilation system in our 2013 Camry XLE during cold outside temperatures since last fall.
When the system is in the auto setting and set around 70-72 deg. F, the system delivers a comfortable temperature from the floor vents or a combination of the floor vents and defrost. The temperature that I measure is usually in the 100-115 deg. F range. After about 20 - 30 minutes of driving, the system will switch on the dash vents along with the floor vents. At this time the temperature coming out of the dash vents is cold and frequently measured as low as 53 deg. F. Along with this the floor vents are still delivering warm air. Been an automatic system I would expect the supply temperature to modulate to maintain the cabin temperature to the desired setting but not in this manner. All this is on overcast very cold winter days.
I drove the vehicle the other day when the outside temp was around 12 deg. F with the sun shining resulting in a bit of a greenhouse effect inside. With the control set at 70 deg. F and in auto I noticed that the air was only coming out of the dash vents and was a bit warmer this time (about 60 deg. F). This scenario is a bit more acceptable although the floor area was cold as expected considering the cold outside temperature.
I have taken the car to our dealer who has tried to diagnose the situation and have replaced one sensor that resulted in no change. They have been in contact with Toyotas technical dept. as well for assistance. They are indicating that all the air comes from one box and it is impossible to get colder air from the dash vents. Obviously with our current situation this is not the case. The service manager at the dealer was hoping to test the operation of another similar vehicle but so far has been unsuccessful.
This has been going on since last fall after my wife complained about it and was not happening the previous winter. Presently when this situation occurs we switch the control to manual damper control to shut off the cold air blowing in our faces.
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I have a 2010 F250 super duty. I use it for work so I am not sure what happened to it as others have driven it, but here is the issue. When i start it up in 2wd, the 4x4 Low light flashes continually. If I turn the switch to 4x4 high, the 4x4 high light flashes continually. if i turn it to 4x4 low, that light flashes continually. I have read the forums but haven't been able to find the problem/diagnosis for this.
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I'm fairly new to these cars. I just bought one used 2 weeks ago. lately in the very cold new england mornings i am seeing the battery light flash at me when downshifting on the highway. seems to go away after about 5 miles and doesn't happen every day. Belt and the tension look ok. My car is stock and has 52k on it.
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Today was the worst weather ever since the Tiguan left the factory, it was -10˚C and it was parked outside.
When I turned the car on, the coolant light was flashing with a beeping sound. The indicator was acting normally and it stopped in the middle as usual when I drove about 8KM.
I then stopped and turned the car OFF and then ON after a few minutes and it was gone.
I searched and many people said something about topping up the coolant fluid. To me, this doesn't make sense because it only happened to them and I when the weather was cold.
Is there anything to worry about? the car is still new with 12,xxxKM.
Here is an image ...
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry LE, and the seat belt light keeps on flashing and the airbag light is solid. We have tried literally everything possible, tried replacing the seat, replaced the seats sensors, tried a airbag module out of another 07 camry with exact same part #. Toyota have diagnosed that all the systems for airbag is fine, except it has something to do with the seat belt of the drivers side/or module but all that's been checked and still no luck. My car is due for Safety inspecting coming month and need this to fixed. How to handle this. Btw light came on because we had a blown fuse for the drivers power seat, and my mechanic thought that it was the motor so we replaced the seat and noticed that it wasn't the motor. Was just the fuse and we put back the original seat and everything is functional except the lights came on. No accidents on it to the extent i know. and the wiring is all plugged back properly without anything like wiring damage.
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Last week while on the highway I noticed my AC was not blowing cold. It was set to the lowest temperature and at the lowest fan setting. The air had gone from cold to room temperature and the AC button light was flashing/blinking.
I pressed the button, it lit up solid and it started blowing cold again. Two minutes later the air went back to room temperature and the light was flashing again.
It worked fine for a few days and then it happened again Saturday. I noticed the air wasn't coming out cold and see that the AC button is blinking. I tap it solid and it starts blowing cold again only this time it stayed cold for the rest of the 20 minute drive. What could be going on here?
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My 99 2.0 jetta tends to flash the temperature light on cold starts and when the cars running for a while and im not moving (traffic) the light flashes and starts to overheat. Whats the problem? The previous owner had changed the radiator begire i bought it but can it. I need a new radiator fan or is it my thermostat?
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My A/C works fine, but the A/C switch light is not working. So i don't know if A/C on&off when i drive in the evening. Which part I need to replace and what is the part number?
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y gen 5 air conditioner dashboard button light is flashing/blinking, and the A/C is only blowing out warm air now.
Question: does this mean i have to replace the so called freon? or replace it? or is my entire unit trashed?
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My wifes car is an 2002 Camry 4Cyl. It has a periodic flashing A/C light and decrease or no performance when it does so. I called the dealer and asked for a magnetic clutch relay for A/C. Went to pick up the part and they had 90080-87026 waiting. My research shows that 90987-02022 (in the car now) was superseded by 90987-02028.
What is 90080-87026 for? Did they give me the wrong part?
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I have an 2002 Toyota Camry and having problems with ac. Ac light is flashing. I have put compressor (used) on, brand new expansion valve, flushed out lines, and recharged. Air started to blow cold then quits again. Now compressor kicks on then off. At my limits on what's the problem.
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I just recent bought a 2012 Toyota Camry LE and it seems to have had fog lights installed (not stock ,as far as my research has proven) and the LED on the switch is green and never shuts itself off. I'm not sure if this is normal. I have a decent mechanical background and never see anything other than security lights on when the key if off and out of the ignition. Seems like it may be a little wrong wiring. I checked the DIY OEM install of the fog lamps, but nothing there stood out to me as a cause for the light to remain on.
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Camry 2002 XLE 4Cyl. 2.4 ... When I switch ignition key on, there are no ABS and Brake light come on. Why is that happening? How to fix it? Normally, when we switch ignition key on, what are indicator light on?
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Where they've hidden the switch that turns the trunk light on--and the switch that lights up the instrument panel warning light that the trunk is open, and that causes that annoying bleating when you're driving with the trunk unlatched?
I have a 10' kayak that I slide into the trunk for a 1/2 mile drive down my private road to the dock and I'm sick of listening to that warning beep--hoping I can put tape over the switch or something to shut it up.
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I can hardly see at night when i switch on the low beam light on my 09 Camry. How I can make them a little brighter. Have difficulties seeing when i meet another vehicle and have to change to low beam at night.
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The green A/C light on my 2002 Camry (4 cyl) will start to flash after the the A/C is turned on. After reading about the relay fix I tried swapping relays and had the same symptoms. The compressor will engage and for the few seconds that its engaged it will just barely start to blow cooler air until it starts to flash. I then noticed that with the relay completely removed I would also get the flashing light after a few seconds when the A/C was turned on but the air would not start to turn cold.
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A customer brought in their 07 Camry XLE with a flashing low tire light. I retrieved two codes, one for sensor 1 and one for sensor 2. Tire pressures normal.
Codes are
DTC C2121/21 No Signal from Transmitter ID1 in Main Mode
DTC C2122/22 No Signal from Transmitter ID2 in Main Mode
The other things I noticed were that the two bad sensors were showing a temp of -40F while the two good sensors were within 5 degrees of actual ambient temp. Another fault was that the battery in #4 was low. I ordered 2 new sensors from Toyota and after writing down their code, I swapped them out. I had already written down the codes for the other 2 sensors. Going into the data, now sensor #4 is reading -40F too and the battery says OVER.
The only good one is on the left front. I cannot believe that I had two bad sensors this morning and another failed this afternoon. I've been wrenching long enough to know that these things are rare. The customer made the appointment yesterday and dropped off the car last night. She called right when the light came on and only drove it about 30 miles from then to when she dropped it off. Before I left, I ordered two more sensors. BTW, the tires look relatively new, but we did not put them on. The two sensors I removed looked fine.
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My friends 02 Camry A/C light is flashing. A/C compressor is not coming on. About a month ago I replaced the MG A/C relay with a Napa relay and cleaned out the cabin filter to fix same concern.
It appears the relay is bad again. Are the OEM relays recommended over the aftermarkets relays for this concern or am I overlooking something else.
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This is for our '05 Toyota Camry with 125K miles on the ODO, has ABS but no TPMS.
Around a few weeks ago the ABS light started flashing on start-up. Turned engine off and it went away. This has happened 3 times to far. The light stays off otherwise. Before this we had new tires installed and the car aligned and they said the rear was a bit off (had uneven tire wear), not sure if related or not.
I was able to read the code with shorting two pins and I get 33 & 34 which is both the rear wheel sensors. The part that I am suspicious about is both sensors going out together that not make sense. So I am thinking it is the wiring somewhere. Hopefully not the module ...
For now I have cleared the codes and want to see if they return. The sensors are expensive and seems like I have to take the rear bearing off to change them, so not keen on just throwing parts at it. How to approach the troubleshooting?
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