Camry :: Engine Won't Idle, Need To Keep Revving It
Apr 6, 2013
I am due for an inspection for a 2004 Camry (4 cyl.).
I had the engine light come on with a P2231 or P2238 code on my OBDII tool. Car was running fine, no weirdness whatsoever. But I went ahead and changed the front sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1). As soon as I changed the code went away and it is not coming out anymore, nor are other codes.
However, the engine doesn't idle after 5 minutes running. I have to keep revving it up at the light to keep going. I shut it off and it turns on no problem. But then it doesn't idle. What a pain, I used the Bosch O2 sensor bought from AutoZone.
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I have a 2000 Accord with a 2.3L 4 cylinder and manual transmission. I just changed the timing belt, balancer belt, water pump, tensioner wheels and other external belts. I now get a bad engine vibration at idle and when backing up and pulling forward. The vibration is quite noticeable in the steering wheel. Revving the engine smooths it out at certain RPM's. I know this isn't right and its got to be limited to something I just did. I followed the instructions in the Honda service manual and thought that everything went back to gather correctly. I double checked the timing and balancer alignments. The motor mount on the drivers side is simple and all went back together correctly. Is there a way to verify correct timing belt and balancer belt alignments without tearing it all down again?
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My engine temp gets too hot when revving the engine but cools down at idle. The top rad hose is hot and the bottom rad hose is cool. I'm suspecting a stuck thermostat?
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After changing the PCV valve, I decided to rev the engine to test if it was installed tightly. I noticed the engine was not hot yet, but I still revved the engine to 4000 RPM for about 20 seconds (the most stupid thing I have done), then I saw white smoke coming from the engine. I didn't check if there was smoke out of exhaust pipe. After searching the web, I realized I might have damaged the head gasket.
The car is still drivable, and the temperature was normal during the driving. But I feel really bad since I have killed the engine. So, how much damage I might have possibly done to the engine?
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Having DTC of P0507? Engine is revving a bit higher at idle than normal.
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I've just done an engine swap to my 2000 GTS Celica. The new engine seems to run nice and tight and smooth and everything but I can't seem to bring the idle down. It stays revving at about 2000 RPM and the check engine light is on. The engine is from Japan and only has 35,000 kms. on it.
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My brother and I noticed my engine making this noise today, I was under the hood and he was giving the engine gas with the car in neutral.
video of sound: [URL] .....
Sounds like air pressure being released, sort of a quick whistle or squeal just as he pushes the gas pedal, coming from under the hood somewhere.
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I bought a CPO 2010 Camry LE (2.5 4 cyl, 6 sp auto) a few months ago. The car had around 34K miles when I got it, and ever since then, it has had a high pitched whining noise when accelerating or revving the engine in park. It is noticeable from around 2500RPM up, and seems to be a little louder when the engine is cold.
I have left it at the dealer twice, and both times they have come back and said it is normal. I can't believe this, because I have owned many cars over the years, most of them being fairly dilapidated, yet most of them haven't had a noise like this. I think I have read a comment online somewhere that an issue like this was found due to a bad power steering pump .
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I have a 1994 Toyota Camry. Took it to a shop to repair an oil leak. They had to dismount the transmission to get to the gasket. I got the car back and the transmission was messed up. Took it to a transmission shop and they told me that the transmission "cable" wasn't positioned correctly by whoever had done the work and they could fix it. They told me it was safe to drive it until my appointment. The engine was revving too high before changing gears and while driving home, I heard a loud rattling noise in the engine and my car stopped in the middle of the road. I'm told that a rod has broken inside the engine. My question is: can this in any way be related to the transmission cable not having been set/positioned correctly?
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My Dad's R32 is revving at a higher rpm than it should at idle. It happens randomly for about a minute and then goes away only to return later. He took it to the stealership, but they will not facilitate because they could not replicate the problem. I'm thinking it is some kind of vacuum leak.
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1.8T revving in idle and I can't figure out if it's injectors or fuel pump.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra that is exhibiting some strange behavior at idle.It wants to rev from 1500 to 3000 rpm, then back down, over and over again, every two seconds or so. This does not occur when the car is in drive or reverse; it purrs along at a consistent 1200 rpm.It all started with overheating and a water pump change, which was completed and reassembled.Then on startup, we began getting this revving. We double and triple checked the timing belt. We sprayed plenty of carb/choke cleaner in the areas of the vacuum hoses searching for a leak to no avail. Whenever we hookup the OBD code reader, there are no codes.Why does my car want to challenge everyone to a drag race, and what is causing this?
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So today I went for a drive in my mkvi gti with apr stage 1 and an intake and the car was idling rough and then as i pressed the clutch to take it out of gear and brake the car would rev up to about 3k and drop ant go up and down a couple times until it returned to normal idle and still it would idle rough and this happens every time i press the clutch to take the car out of gear. also on a cold start it would jump up to like 3k and then slowly drop down.
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I had some problems with my Elantra and I fixed (or tried to) them all this weekend. I needed a new IAC motor, the motor was reving up and down and I tested it, then changed it. I needed a fuel injector and changed that. I needed a lower thermostat housing and changed that.
These changes resulted in the following problems. The vehicle now revs at a high idle all the time at approximately 3000. What are the causes of this?
I know that when I was burping the coolant system (changing out all the hoses and the thermostat housing) I got antifreeze sprayed all over the top of the motor.
Here is the problems that I have now. Didn't have these before.....
The engine idles at or about 3000 rpm. Constant from startup until shutdown. It idles down when you shift it into gear but that is because of the strain on the motor with the brake used.
The transmission is now having problems shifting from 1st to 2nd. I checked the fluid, its good. There is however antifreeze on top of the transmission by some sensors. Do these sensors have anything to do with the shifting?
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I have a 2001 Monte Carlo that I absolutely love. The check engine light has been on forever, despite repairs that should have turned that light off. Just recently, my car has started to gain RMP while I'm stopped or going anywhere between 0-25 miles per hour. This also makes the car physically shake and jolt. Very unfortunate. I turn it on to drive once more and then my check engine light flashed and beeped at me. I thought about waiting to take it in until Monday, but now I think it is best to bring it in now.
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I have a 99 tacoma with a 3.4 L automatic with 160,000 miles. For the past year my truck will idle rough and quit after revving high. After driving around for a few min its fine until I accelerate hard and get it up to about 4 to 5 thousand rpms. I recently changed the timing belt and accidentally got it about two teeth off. While it was like that, it didnt have much power and it was very loud, but it didnt have the problem. Once I fixed it and got it timed right it started having the problem again.
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1989 Saturn 5 speed, 4 cyl, 185,000 miles. Just started overrevving, when I try to go into 1st or 2nd or idle RPMS jump to 4500. So not a good thing. Do not tell me to buy a new car, not in the budget, or maybe it is.
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I recently bought a second-hand 2003 Honda Odyssey that had been very well-maintained. It had just had its belts changed about 6 months ago, too. After taking ownership I noticed a slight hissing sound when running the A/C. I didn't think much of it. Months later(today), I drove to work with no problems. But when I got into the car in the afternoon, I noticed the van was revving erratically. Not very high, but maybe up one full tick and then fall off. This was worrisome. Later when I got home I noticed the TSC light had come on as well.
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My 1999 Civic (auto trans) idles fast at start up--drives itself until warmed up. Also intermittantly revs on its own at startup after warmed up. Throttle body was cleaned; problems persisted. Idle Air Control Value replaced, problem persists. Car has 173000 miles on it
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My Buick has started acting weird and I've had a hard time figuring out what's going on. As I understand it 94' was the transition year for the OBD1 and OBD2 sensors, therefore auto zone and o'reilly haven't been able to pull codes on my car. It runs off of OBD1 codes but has 16 point OBD2 sensor pins.
Here's the problem: When the car is started it revs up to 2000rpm at idle, when shifted into neutral the rpm jumps up to 3500. In drive and reverse it goes back down to 2000rpm. While driving the car is hard to stop and surges when I take my foot off the break, it also gains speed on flat ground without touching the gas pedal. After driving the car when I put it back in park it revs back up to 3500rpm and is quite noisy.
I've replaced the mass airflow sensor, cleaned out the entire throttle body (there was a little carbon build up but not too bad), replaced all the vacuum hoses(that put a stop to it for about a week), and I'm still having the same problems. I recently replaced the a/c pump because the bearings went bad but I don't think that would cause any problems like this.
I have a very, very slight gasket leak on my valve covers but it's been like that for the last few months and the car was acting fine. The car has done this before but it usually stops after you drive it somewhere. The hotter it's gotten out the more often it started happening and now it's not stopping like it did before.
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My 2000 Ranger (4.0L, V6, manual tranny) is acting weird in first and second gears as well as idle. I hear a ticking and then the engine revs. At idle, I see the tach needle move a little. While driving, the truck jerks. It's a smooth ride once I move into third gear.
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