Camry :: Engine Heat Is Penetrating To The Foot Area Of Cabin
Nov 23, 2013
I have been lately feeling that the engine heat is penetrating to the foot area of the cabin even when heater or blower is not running. Engine is running at normal temp as I monitor temp gauge all the time when I am driving.
Pulled out the carpet around clutch and surrounding foot area to see what is going on and found out 2 heater core pipes are running hot and dissipating a quite bit of heat when the blower is in off and cabin temp controller is in cold position. Is this normal, I believe when the temp controller is in cold position there should not even be hot coolant running to heater core from the engine? Could heater tap or temp control valve that stops engine hot coolant running to cabin/heater core be faulty? If so where are they located?
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First background: G2 car has 215,000 mi and recently got P1121 scan code, so I replaced the coolant control valve. that's when high coolant temp and no cabin heat started.
on CCV top nipple connected to hose that had a dot on it and hose goes under inverter cover on right, next nipple down went to hose slightly to left of first hose, bottom hose goes to thermus can. initially ran car in diag mode with high heat, no heat in cabin.
so I got a Autel 519 scan code reader and I see now that the only code is a P0505 (idle air control malfunction)
taking car down my road for short test run, I turn off cabin heat completely and watched the ECT. after a while it climbs to around 220, then while engine is running quickly goes to 245F then 260F. At that point in time (around 245F) the high temp indicator lights up, temp stayed at 260ish so I return home. With car in park, cabin heat off - the temp returns back down to 220F. if I rev the engine temp again climbs.
I have gone through all suggestions, open radiator bleed valve, manually 'pumped' coolant hoses, turned on/off high heat in cabin and finally with car off removed and jumped the CHS multiple times for about 20secs.
Have purged the coolant system over period of days and coolant appears to be full as level is near top of radiator cap, no bubbling, no gurgling.
However 2 mentioned problems continue... I am starting to suspect coolant thermostat but it would seem strange that it would go at precisely the same time as coolant control valve.
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I got my 14 Elantra GT 3 months ago.
If I am driving with all the windows and roof opened, I can feel the engine heat coming in to the car from the pedal area. I took it to the dealer and they said it's normal.
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I went in for an oil change and told them to visually inspect the car for a water leak. There was another phaeton in the shop with a water problem that was costing the customer thousands so I thought they might be able to see a red flag. I get the car back and they told me they blew air through the sunroof vents.
I've had the passenger foot well carpet up to monitor the floor to see if water has been leaking since I sealed around a couple batter terminal points that went through the firewall, and it had been dry.
But I had a feeling blowing that air through the vents might have dislodged the hose from the connector, so I put some water through the sunroof vent, and it totally started pouring into the footwell. It had NEVER done that when pouring water through the sunroof vent when I was diagnosing it before.
I feel like the dealer made the problem worse by blowing air down there, and now the dash is probably going to have to come out, and i'm assuming they will make me pay for it.
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Periodically, I hear this "clicking" in the driver's foot well area. It sounds like its coming from somewhere down there. It sort of sounds like its a click-ON, then OFF... repeats a few times then stops. Comes back. Then stops. If you know what one of those dog clickers sounds like, that's what it is. I have tried to associate it with something but I can't. I thought it was the heated seats but nope.
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I need to change the engine and cabin filter on our Camry what brand do you recommend also does it really matter if you purchase the expensive filters vs 5.00 to 10.00 ones? I ask because looks like Toyota OEM filters are normal paper filters.
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What are the toyota part numbers for 2012 SE 4cyl...
1) Engine Air Filter(element)
2) Cabin Air Filter
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I am still getting the CEL codes for the Secondary Intake Air Pump after I noticed the water in the passenger foot area. I clear the CEL but it comes back on again after a few days. I am now trying to trouble shoot the issue. When I start the engine cold I do NOT hear the blower come on the first minute the engine is on. That tells me the Secondary air intake pump is not turning on. Next I must check the relay or fuse tied to the pump. Which relay or fuse number it is and where it is located exactly?
If the fuse/relay is not the issue, how difficult it will be to change this pump and where it is located exactly?
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As stated in the title, I've been experiencing a creaking/groaning noise originating from the dead pedal/foot-rest area when I release the clutch as I'm accelerating from first gear. This happens more so when I'm accelerating from a stop on any sort of incline (irrespective of the grade) and primarily in the afternoon/early evening when the weather's at its warmest for the day.
The noise itself originated about a month ago. Although I describe it as a creaking/groaning it sometimes sounds like a slight metal on metal friction noise.
My car's stock with the exception of Driver Gear springs and a BSH 27mm sway bar in the rear. Wheels are OEM 16s. I've had the DG springs on my car for about 3 months before this noise began and mileage was around 9,900Km.
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So I have a hissing sound (kind of what the vacuum cleaner makes when air path is obstructed with debris) coming from passenger side foot area. The easiest way to hear it is to turn on HVAC and put the fan on the lowest setting so the sound of the fan does not interfere with the noise.
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2004, 6.0, 96,000. I noticed a occasional clunking under the passenger foot area. The exhaust pipe is loose at the turbo connection on top the engine. It is swinging L & R & hitting the spring hanger & transmission cross member. Is there a rolled pin, dimple or other alignment device at the flange at the turbo???
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My 2002 chevy venture does not provide any heat from the cabin air system..The engine reaches proper driving temperature normally.Can't heat the cabin or get any modulation of cabin temp when using A/C.
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I took the 2008 Santa Fe Limited into the dealer for no control over heat in cabin. It turned out to be a air mixing valve actuator failure. Since the car had 60714 miles on it I needed to convince the dealer, since this is a common failure, that Hyundai should stand behind it. Since it failed before I brought it in, it failed before the 60k mark. The dealer supplied the part and I the labor.
Before I brought it in I replaced the thermostat. An old school problem fix for insufficient heat. That did nothing. Upon disassembly i found it very difficult to get at. You need a lot of patients to do this task and reversible wrists and elbows due to its location.
Also, in looking up the control system in the Factory Repair Manual I discovered this Limited heat/AC panel has an internal self-diagnosis that you can trigger. It did indeed indicate a faulty actuator. The dealer was not aware of the self-diagnosis facility having not been taught it by Hyundai during training.
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Seems below 20 my car cannot defrost the windows or heat the cabin. It has been 0-10 the last couple days here in SE WI. The coolant temp gauge is straight up right in the middle. Some how coolant isn't flowing through the heater core. Could this be a design failure? It doesn't seem to matter what settings are on dash. I have tried with ac on and off, recirculation on and off, full defrost on, fan on all speeds, have also tried a combination of cracked windows open.
Are other people experiencing this as well? Is a call to the dealer in order?
For ref car is 2014 tdi se with 34,000miles.
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Our prius is 13 yrs old and the fan of the heat/ac broke. We had it replaced at the dealer and also had them replace the cabin airfilter. Since then, whenever we use the fan (heat or AC), we've been getting fumes in the car, a gas smell (even when there are no cars in front of us, so it's not from other cars). We brought it back to the dealer twice and they have not fixed it. They found a hole in the exhaust system and replaced the muffler etc. My questions:
1) Is there a way to measure the air quality in the cabin and find out what fumes are coming in and how dangerous they are?
2) What could it be and how can we finally get it fixed.
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I have a 2011 Camry SE...and its very quiet inside when doing city driving...but as soon as i hit the highway and go beyond 60mph...i hear constant loud engine noise inside the cabin... (Sounds like tapets of a bike)
I talked to the dealership and they said it is normal as its a 2.5Ltr engine and its Sports tuned for higher pickup! Is this normal or i need to get something check?
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2006 Acura MDX w/160k miles running like new but cabin heat levels began to fall off. Service at dealer (who also performed all vehicles scheduled service) revealed 2 cracked cast iron cylinders in the motor allowing coolant to leak by and not reach the heater core. Leaking coolant fried two catalytic converters and remedy is a used engine replacement and new converters.
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My 2007 Prius has stopped producing cabin heat; the blower fan is working. I have no dash warning indicators. I am in an area where the are no Toyota dealers and need to drive 160 miles to home and shop. It has just turned cold. Why and if I am ok to drive to the shop?
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2009 Impala, 6 cyl., 32k miles, with the engine warm and running below 1000 rpm I only get cool air entering the cabin. As soon as I rev up to 1000 rpm and above heat enters the cabin. The coolant level was a little low and I added about 2 cups. I haven't driven it since adding the coolant but I doubt that is an issue. Since the day I bought this vehicle (at about 16k miles) I could detect a whine sound coming from the engine compartment at start up. This may have something to do with this problem, but until just recently the heater did work fine. The A/C works fine. Thinking maybe a water pump?
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Interested in possibly changing out the OEM misty grey carpet floor for the darker OEM grey when I have my seats out anyway to install heated leather seats. The carpet I have now shows dirt and stains too easily.
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My 2010 Ford Explorer experienced a radiator leak between the radiator and the plastic tank on the top, so I replaced that, we were still not experiencing any heat while driving it. I watched a couple of videos on how to "burp" the system, to no avail.
Next I replaced the thermostat, and "burped" it again, still no heat, so I drained and flushed the system yet again and still no heat. What else is there to check? I have the Haynes manual and did the flush and fill the way the book said and still have no heat I am about to lose my mind.
The blend doors sound like they are opening. They are not clicking like they are broken.
The heater is on full the entire time, I have not rotated the dial since I started this.
I unplugged one of the hoses on the heater core and blew into it, the hose was bone dry and I blew into the end of the hose and fluid came out of the cabin side metal tube. I also plugged a water hose into the tube and ran water through it to make sure it wasn't clogged, it is not. Front and rear heater cores.
Here is everything thing I have done from the start:
- Replaced Radiator.
- Replaced Thermostat.
- Drain and flush and re-service.
- Checked for leaks out of the water pump weep hole (none) and operation of pump, the upper hose gets hot and I feel water go through it when the thermostat opens.
- Check the radiator cap for pressure, it opens at 20psi and hold between 17-19psi. Replaced radiator cap anyway.
- Removed supply hose and ran coolant to purge trapped air.
- Ran water through the supply and return hoses on the heater core. On the front and rear.Check operation of heater control valve, works.
- Turned vehicle on while watching the exhaust pipe, a small amount of water on initial start up in the morning but no smoke.
Problems still occurring:
-Drive vehicle it over heats but returns to normal at idle I also get the coolant light that extinguishes when the car returns to idle. Even though it says its overheating the car has not pushed coolant into the expansion tank.
- The car will not take any more coolant, and only overheats after the fan comes on. And still no heat.
Should add, 4.0L engine, no oil in water after flush and the engine oil looks like engine oil not milky. Next step was a water pump???
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