Camry :: Driver Side Window Streaks Whenever Goes Down
Sep 30, 2013
09 SE--> I'm getting streaks inside the driver side front window whenever it goes down. The streaks wipe off easily, it's just annoying to have to do it every time I move the window. They aren't straight across and aren't in the exact spot every time, but the same general area. I'm guessing it's coming from one of the seals inside the door, I don't have to take the door skin off more than I need to: simply clean them or all-out replacement.
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I have a 2010 Hyundai Elantra Touring Wagon. I've only had it for 3 months. Right after I got it, I noticed that the wiper on the driver side left streaks when used. I replaced both wipers with Trico Exact Fit, but the problem persisted. I just changed the driver's side one [b]again. This time with a $21 Teflon top-of-the-line blade (24"). It now streaks less, but the top 6" or so (outer edge of the wiper) still streaks.
Having ruled out the blades, could this be a wiper arm tension issue or am I using a blade that's too long?
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Where I can find an electrical schematic for the driver's door window? It recently stopped going up and down, and I want to pull the switch panel out and test the switch before yanking the whole door panel to test the motor. I just need to figure out which connector pins should get tested for continuity.
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Every time I wash the car and it's nice and dry then many hrs later I still roll the window down and it's still wet and streaks with wet marks , even the next day , continues to streak . So don't know if this is normal for these cars or not.
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Recently i just noticed that my window is scratching against something inside my door when it goes down. It sounds like a rolling plastic wheel is scratching my window leaving Marks and noise.
I'm thinking about talking to Toyota about this. It's a 2011 SE camry, I bought it in July 2010.
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My driver's side window stopped working. Does it need new electric motor or is it a common electrical connection or wiring issue. How to take the door panel off?
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My rear windows, driver's side mostly was stuck...on and off, mostly off...since I bought Kitacamry 2 years ago, and discovered this...(for search engine users the title identifies potential sources for the problem)...
The windows were so snug that they stuck to the rubber if not used much, and here in south Florida they're hardly used, and often would not roll down...sometimes they would but not always...dealers thought it was the motor, or the regulator or the switch...and who could blame them?
I've discovered that it's not the regulator, and that the motor was just not strong enough to "break the seal" of the rubber.
I recently had a regulator repaired (a screw was loose) and noticed that the shop sprayed the rubber with silicone and that made the window glide much more smoothly...soooo....
I sprayed the other windows' rubber seals...and WOW....all open and glide down and up smooth as silk...If your windows are stuck....give silicone spray a shot...
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Just purchased a used 2003 camry 2.0G A/T. The driver's side window slides down well when using the auto button, but gets stuck 1/4 way on the way up. Have to wait a while before holding the button to slide it up all the way. What might be wrong and how I can correct?
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I have a 2004 camry with 107k miles. The power drivers window makes a pop when leaving the seal. I have cleaned out the track, lubricated with silicone spray, but this did not solve the problem.
When I put a little pressure on the top of the window with my hand it comes down fine without popping.
I am thinking it may be a track issue. It appears the window is shifting 1/4-1/2 " to the front just before it contacts the seal.
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My wife and I recently purchased an 02 Camry. Last night the drivers door stopped opening from the inside and outside. Then we noticed the window was getting stuck rolling down and when I pushed down a bit the door popped open! Happened a couple times before the window got stuck.
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2000 Camry XLE. Driver's el.window quits on way up, but will start again if I wait for one or more minutes before retrying. The longer I wait, the farther up it will go. Not fun at toll booths on rainy days. Started a few month ago when I forgot to close windows and the controls got rained on. Initially, a blast of WD40 seemed to cure the problem, but no longer. Took arm rest controls out, but couldn't see any obvious problems. Is this an aging motor problem? Do I have to get ripped off by dealership serv. dept., or can any reputable garage do it? I'm worried about taking the whole panel off myself. Don't have the tools to do so, and don't want to rip "leather."
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I noticed my 2014.5 camry has a loose driver's window. When rolled down between 2 to 6 inches, it rattles when driving over small bumps If I actually feel the window, it moves about 1/8 inch to the sides when open 2 to 6 inches. I mentioned this at my one year service. The tech showed me other 14.5 SE's they had the same problem only on the driver's window. He said the dealers can't do anything about it because it is how Toyota designed the cars.
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I noticed the driver side window in my car is loose. It wiggles on the track when rolled down 2-6 inches. You can also hear it in the door when the door is closed when it is rolled down all the way. It sounds like the windows on the old Trans Ams and Camros, which were always loise. It became loose between the first scheduled service and the one year service.
I mentioned it at the one year. The tech said all 4 2014 SE's had the same problem. He showed me it, too. He told me there was nothing he could do since its how Toyota made the car. And the other cars had the same problem. Since he said there was nothing he could do about it, I called Toyota to report it.
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I took my wife's 2010 tig for a drive after washing it this morning and noticed water on the rear window so I turned on the rear wiper. Well, to my dismay, the wiper didn't clean the water off because it was on the inside. I noticed water streaks on the inside part of the rear window a few weeks ago but I figured it was from condensation. It wasn't one or 2 drops, it was leaking down across the whole back window. I assume it is a seal but wanted to see if this is an identified issue.
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2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
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Just got my 2012 Prius from the body shop. Got hit in the rear where the starting battery is.
Had window control problems since battery was replaced.
Problem is that the driver-side rear window can't be controlled by the driver. It works fine with its own control but not from up front. The light on that windows button is not lit like the others. When pressed it lights and when released it blinks a few times and goes out. I unhooked the starting batter to try and reset things with no luck.
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I had a couple of questions about a 2006 Lexus GS300.
The reason I came here is because her GS300 has 3 issues and being this thing is one massive computer... I figured I'd ask you about them and make sure I wasn't getting in over my head in case the repair costs would be substantial.
1st issue: When sitting in the front passenger seat or either back seat with a window, the window goes down fine when using that switch. When sitting in the drivers seat, the only window the driver can put down is the drivers window. The passenger front/rear and drivers rear does not work. Is this a known issue? How to resolve?
2nd issue: When listening to music, regardless of output (xm, fm, cd, etc), audio is only coming out of the passenger side of the car. There is nothing coming out of any speaker on the drivers side. Possible amp issue?
3rd issue: When trying to operate the moonroof, nothing is done automatically. My mother tells me she used to hit open, and the moonroof would open automatically, same with closing. Now, you have to hold the button down manually to get it to the location you want and have to play with the button to get it to shut properly.
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Ok so here's the deal.. A few weeks back I started to notice my passenger side window started to roll slower than the driver side, not by much but its pretty obvious enough every time you either roll the window down or up.. I made an appointment with a VW service center to have them look at it but they said they can't do anything about it .. Is this true ..? The service guy told me that their would be no way to make the motor of the window go any faster or slower.. However I'm back here again due to some clunking/ticking noise every time I roll my pax side window which develop during their first assessment.. So they ordered me a new window regulator which is getting put in now.. The main and initial problem as to why I made an appointment in the first place was for VW service center to fix my pax side window rolling a bit slowly. Now since they are replacing the regulator of my pax side window I asked the service guy whether this would fix the problem of the window rolling slower compare to the driver side and he bluntly said no.. "we cannot make the motor of the window go slower or faster".. Is their any way to fix the rate of the window to go up or down..?
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Passenger side window not operable from drivers side anymore, with the respective button. However, the windows does work when I try from the passenger side.
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My passenger side power window does not work from the drivers side control, but works from the passenger control. I replaced the master switch on the driver side and it still does not work. I have checked the fuses--Side, below and under the hood and have even found inline fuses below--all were good. Could the dealer have to program my new switch? I do not have child safety locks.
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Replaced the battery on my 07 the other day, and subsequently discovered my passenger side power window would not open or close from driver side control switch. Initially thought the worse of course, that I needed a new motor for the passenger side window. Then I tried the passenger side window switch and the window worked fine.
So now, I think that the switch for the passenger side window (on the driver's side) is bad, and I will need to replace the whole switch control module. Did a search and found the root cause and solution to the problem. Apparently, after replacing a battery, I needed to RESET the passenger side switch from the passenger side, by HOLDING the switch approx. 3 seconds after raising and lowering the window two times.
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