Camry :: Defrost Button Blinks For 25 Seconds When Start The Car
Oct 5, 2012
My defrost button blinks for 25 seconds when I start the car. After it stops blinking the fan comes on but I won't defrost the front windshield, air only comes out the side vents.
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2007 Camry ... I had some electrical issues changed alternator and battery. Resolved all other issues except my rear defrost light blinks on start up my rear defrost light blinks for 30 seconds the fan will not work until light quits blinking. Everything worked fine before I blew fuse. I have taken it into dealer to get diagnostic check and nothing shows on there computer. I have no heat and controls do not switch from floor defrost ect. Rear defrost does work. But I need heat and defrost to drive through the winter. I look goofy with window down and its 30 degrees out . Dealer said they had cleared all faults.
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I have an '03 Camry XLE with V6 engine, which I bought used later last year. The automatic climate control AC was standard with this vehicle. But when I turn on the AC, the light on the AC button blinks on and off, and it blows warm air. The first thing that I did was check the under-the-hood fuse box, which is where the manual shows a 10 amp fuse for the AC. PROBLEM...there is no 10 amp fuse where it should be, but to make matters worse, there is an empty slot with no contacts to accept a fuse as well. The fuse box cover shows that there should be a fuse at that location as well, but there is none.
A lack of info about relays in both the cars manual as well as the Chilton repair manual, accompanied by the fact that there is no fuse where the manual and fuse box cover says that there SHOULD be a fuse for the AC is what caused the confusion. The AC relay is called the "magnetic clutch relay"...why, I don't know. But I swapped that relay with a similar one that I know was working and the AC works fine. The new relay is about $14, and there is no fuse because there should be no fuse...the relay does the trick, I guess. Anyway, problem solved.
APPARENTLY, some things must get lost in the translation. The car's manual shows TWO fuses labeled HTR, or heater...yet describes them as being for the air conditioning system. Case closed?
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I'm parking the car (gen. 2) a long while, so I checked the manual which shows the deactivation button on/off positions. It show the button sticking out more = the off position. However, the car symbol still blinks on the dashboard.
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THE PROBLEM: Our Prius 12V aux battery died after my wife left the light on inside the car and instead of buying a new battery, we decided to try jump starting it. My wife tried jump starting our Prius with the neighbors pickup truck and even though I wasn't physically there to witness it, I'm pretty sure that the polarity got swapped during the process. It wouldn't start afterwards, so we went out and bought a brand new 12V aux battery. The prius still will not start. No electric components seem to work (door locks, back brake lights, windows, radio don't work). The dash only shows the orange exclamation mark and the check engine light, nothing else. The power button blinks orange, never goes green.
TROUBLESHOOTING that I've tried:
1. Checked the big 120A fuse right on the positive + terminal. Visibly looked good.
2. Checked all the fuses by the drivers left knee. All tested good with resistance + visible checks.
3. Checked all the fuses in the fusebox under the hood. All tested good EXCEPT the big relay integration fuse under the white plastic cover. It was definitely blown.
4. Replaced the relay integration, still no luck, same exact symptoms.
5. Tried force starting the car in emergency mode by holding the brake and power button down for 15+ secs. The engine starts, but the dash is still dead showing just the check engine light and orange exclamation mark. Can not shift gears or drive.
6. Tried slow charging the NEW battery to get the voltage higher, still no luck. It's testing about 13V with everything off.
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When ignition is turned on the front defrost light blinks fo 30 second before the climate control screen initializes. Then the temp defaults to 75 degrees instead of the last teperatue / mode selected. Only dash vents blow regardless of mode selection. Dealer report was inoperative servo motor. my inspection, visual was that all three servo motors power and move to default position when battery power is restored. It seems that the command to the center servo motor is not correct.
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Sometimes (not all the time) when I get into my car with my key fob in my pocket, the car decides to let out a 2-3 second beep when I press the start button. (similar to the beep that occurs when I walk away from the car while its running and the fob is in my pocket) I have tried looking in the user manual, but I haven't found anything to explain why this is happening. Needless to say, its kind of annoying.
2013 Sonata 2.0T Limited
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I cant start the sonata 2011 unless I keep the start button pressed for 10+ seconds. It just doesn't start anymore by just pressing the brake and hitting start button once. I figured before I replaced the brake light switch, is that's what causing this problem?
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My 2014 camry won't start. I put my key in the ignition and the dash lights come on and blinks once and won't start. The brake pedal won't depress and the steering wheel stays stiff.
I was messing with my sound system the day before and now the car won't start. I've check the battery and it's good and has juice. I've checked all the fuses and relays seem to be fine. Everything work on the car it just won't start.
These cars have a main relay or something with the ignition switch?
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So, I was about to go get something in the garage yesterday and the car didn't open. I know one of the fobs has a bad battery. Well I got new batteries and replaced them in both fobs.
Red light blinks can't unlock when clicking the unlock button nor does the smart function work. I get the little key out and open the drivers seat and think Shouldn't there be some lights on in here like around the power button? or blinking?
Usually when you unlock with the little key should you be able to turn lights on inside the car?
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I have dismantled my trunk completely in order to install rear upgraded lights, as well as to install a new bumper to my kit. I have not put back the interior of the trunk yet. I went to let the top down so I could begin to remove the rear seat to do the mod to the subwoofer that a fellow forum member recommended and provided an instructional. But the top will not come down.
I was able to raise the top and the windows. But when I push the button to lower the top the red light to the switch blinks but nothing happens. My question, do I have to reassemble tyne trunk in order to lower the top. If that is the case how is everyone doing the woofer and amp work with the top lowered.
What I really want to do is lower the top partially so I can remove the rear sear set (top) so I can get to my subwoofer. Or maybe the seat can come out without lowering the top.
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Have a 2001 Prius going strong except for the ac. The button light blinks on the ac switch, and the compressor seems to shut off. But some times the ac works fine.
I brought it into the dealer and they said I need a new compressor.I think it's a temp sensor, otherwise, why is the ac nice and cold and can stay on for some period before going off.
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I kept my car more than 6 days in my garage and today I tried to start my car but, unfortunately smart key did not work. once i kept my hand under the door handle i can here a small click noise but it is not the usual noise and the turn light even did not flash, still the door is locked so i tired to unlock with the mechanical key. Then I enter to the car and i press the break paddle I heard a long motor noise as usual but this is bit longer noise. then i saw my smart key appears on the dash board but the car did not start up . again i tried to on the car I here a knocking noise and the green light on the power button blinks. I tried several times no luck. what will be the problem will it be 12v battery?
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I recently picked up a pre-owned Lexus RC350 F-sport and have been noticing something that kinda annoys me.
So when ever the car is on "ECO" Mode, the Eco light on the dashboard blinks on and off every few seconds. Is this something normal?
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I had a new compressor installed on '07 ES350 and now every now and then the AC button light blinks, the cool air shuts down and I get a message on the screen saying "Check Air Conditioner".
It only occurs occasionally --maybe not at all one day and two or three times another day. I returned to the shop that installed the compressor and they don't seem to know what is causing the problem. (They said maybe a freon overfill and adjusted that --but it's still occurring.)
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We have a 2004 honda civic hybrid, and it is having shifting problems....the drive button blinks when it is in park, and then doesn't engage into drive or reverse. We have a code reader and 2 codes come up...po 700 and po 717. We originally replaced the transmission because those codes were coming up, but it still doesn't work and now we have these two codes. We have read that it could be a sensor...if so, how challenging is that to replace? This all happened when we had the car 1/2 sold. ZERO problems up until the sell day....so obviously we didn't sell it, but want to fix it so we can.
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I have a 2001 sunfire. recently when you push the rear defrost button the service and theft lights come on. was told to replace heating/ac unit. did it today but lights came back on.
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I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 (made in Japan) with 195,000 KM on it and noticed that the car would crank for several seconds before it catches and starts. I have replaced the air filter, changed the spark plugs at 190K, use premium fuel and this is still happening. I have not replaced the spark plug wires as I was told at the time that it was not necessary. I notice that this seems to happen when my car is in the garage at temps above 0 degrees Celsius. When my vehicle is parked outside in a cold winter day, it seems to start quicker.
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While working on diagnosing my center console issue last night, my engine refused to start & I am completely lost as to what the issue is.
I hear a buzzing sound when I hit the brakes and push the button to start.
But all my headlights lights & interior electronics work fine.
I am so irritated as this happens on the SATURDAY evening and everywhere is closed on Sunday; hence I can't get the car serviced.
This is a brand new car w/ less than 2600 miles on it.
YouTube ....
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Experienced the problem of a flashing defrost button and the entire HVAC system "frozen"? All the other buttons become useless while the defrost button is flashing on and off. If I then hold either the a/c button or the auto button, the system starts up at 75 degrees with the air running. I can then adjust to where I want it to be.
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2005 Jetta Gli 1.8t. It decided to do some funky things on me today. I has been running perfectly fine up until I went out for dinner.
When I came back to start her up. Everything worked except for: Radio, Low Beams (both) Fogs, windshield wipers/fluid, rear defrost button, turn signals (but hazards worked fine) and the fan for my heater.
What was working, oddly enough are the amber lights, tails and brake lights, all other lights including the high beam, but ONLY in the position when the stalk is pulled toward the driver. (Have to hold it to keep the high beams on).
It's not the battery because my car wouldn't have started at all if that was the case. It's not the alternator because I disconnected my battery and the car ran just fine and never died. I checked all the fuses of the things that went out but nothing seemed out of the ordinary and all of them seemed just fine.
Where to look next or what to do. I have no check engine lights, or any lights for that matter so I have nothing to scan.
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