The experts who are installing the dash wiring harness on my camry (not exaggeration they really are that good) installed everything perfectly with the exception of the dash not responding. The dash is connected properly but none of the lights nor gauges are reacting. The car turns on and all is good except for this.
View 4 RepliesMy ammeter & coolant temperature gauges have quit responding. Any "easy" ways to check these circuits before I disassemble the dash? And, if the gauges DO turn out to be bad, where can I get replacements?
View 4 RepliesI am no novice at stereo system upgrades but have never done anything to a diesel before so here it goes....99f-250 powerstroke....which battery should i hook the amp power cable to driver side or passenger side or does it matter?
View 3 RepliesInstalling a Pop N Lock on a 2016? What were the wire colors you tapped into?
View 3 RepliesOkay, my 1986 f150 with a 351w (non-feedback carbed) Has no lights on the cluster, and none of the gauges work (haven't tested the speedo yet, truck is not registered yet).
I also have a minor issue with the turn signals... Fronts work, no rears. The left turn indicator light on the dash does not come on but the right turn one does. All my "primary lights" (markers, tail, headlights) work fine. I have not yet tested the brake lights.
Fuses all look good, truck did have some roof leaks. I've done some research, does this sound like the dreaded voltage regulator issue for the gauges?
My assumption for the left turn indicator light is that there is a replaceable bulb in the dash (probably blown), is that right? Rear signals might be wiring (PO installed his own trailer wiring) or bulbs? haven't gotten that far into it yet...
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 180K 3.3L
I read other threads about the connections under the hood, both sides, which I unplugged and replugged. I also pulled the IOD fuse for a little bit. Then I removed the cluster and looked it over. Looked good to me.
Got code P1698 for manufacturers assembly control or something to that effect. Thought I checked all the usual culprits. The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gauges just don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem with the dash gauges going out periodically when hitting a bump. It leads me to believe a connection. But I checked all those.
We have an 04' Ford Explorer NBX 4x4 (auto). We are not the original owners. It has a several issues.
1. Acceleration seems to be responding a little slow when I depress the accelerator pedal. Like a lag of some kind. Engine appears to idle and run fine. Just that subtle lag from gas pedal to engine response. No trouble codes
2. There is a tick or tap coming from behind the dash. This morning as soon as a put the key in the ignition the ticking started but went away after a few minutes on the road. But comes back when I come around turns (like a rounding off ramp from the HWY). Cannot figure out what it is. No trouble codes.
3. My transmission (4x4 Auto) when cold is fine, but when it warms up it seems to go into 4x4 mode and wont come out. All I have to do start going up a subtle hill (or incline) and it engages the 4x4 (at least that's what it feels like). I can hear the sound of gearing. When the transmission shifts it thumps really hard. At low speeds when I let off the gas it thumps really hard. We took it to the tranny shop and they said it was the rear end.
So we had that rebuilt. It was ok for a couple of months (rarely drive it). But it is doing it again, but seems to be getting worse. When in this mode it seems to feel like its dragging. We recently serviced the transmission filter. Replaced fluid. We reset the computer to relearn daily driving. But didn't work.
I was thinking of replacing the 4x4 module and or solenoids in tranny, or 4x4 motor on transfer case, but I don't want to spend money if it doesn't fix the problem. No trouble codes. Are all these issues related to one another? Is one issue causing the other problem to exist?
This car had this problem about 4 years ago when my father in law owned it He had the dealer fix it and they replaced the gas pedal assembly i checked that and it is ok if i shut off the car and restart it the pedal works fine or about 15 seconds then back to idle
View 2 RepliesWe have a 2007 Camry and today the car died. We got a jump and it started right up. After the car turned over......and was running....the Check engine light came on and nothing happened when we hit the gas pedal. The car will go into both reverse and drive and idle forward and back.....but still the gas is not responsive.
View 4 RepliesI have tried to program 2006 Toyota camry for remote key activation .. but after all the steps completions the locks are not responding to activate the remote key.
Have tried many times as shown in videos but car not responding.
'02 TB; 120,000 miles. When I have our TB running the dash lights will come on and the guages will go to zero. Then they will go off and the gauges will return to normal and back again. It acts like the key was shut off though it wasn't. The engine is still running. Now, after reading several posts here I'm thinking the ignition switch is bad. Is there a way to check the ignition switch before I buy a new one?
View 13 RepliesMy 2005 impala started just fine this morning. Went to car wash(never made it) and the dash gauge lights began to flicker, abs, air bag, battery, brake light, gas gauge went hay wire. It did this intermittently. I checked the battery connection .. No issues ... Checked the charge it reads 14.2 steady even when flickering. The car still runs smooth and continues to start just fine. 3.4 chevy impala 2005 ... 134k
View 1 RepliesI got this car from someone and I just noticed none of the gauges on the dashboard work! Everything else works fine and the mileage still shows, engine notifications still show, etc.It's a 2005 Chevy Impala. What might be wrong?
View 3 RepliesI'm going to replace the bone stock/non-"Pioneer Audio System" radio with a new Pioneer head unit in my 2007 Ranger Super Cab. After looking at the wiring between the third-party Metra Ford adapter and the supplied Pioneer harness, I'm left with a couple of connections that must be made to other wiring harnesses in the dash.
First up is a wire from the supply side of the parking brake switch; the second is to the supply side of the Reverse lights. These are in the Pioneer harness and both are about 12" long, so I'm guessing the connections can be accessed fairly close to the radio well in the dash.
Installing a new Pioneer radio in their 2007, and where did you pick off those two connections?
I have a 2011 Camry LE and recently both rear door locks stopped responding to any form whether using the key fob or driver door controls(I have to manual lock and unlock the rear doors)However the rear windows work fine, which indicates the rear doors receiving power. This is really inconvenient. Looking for a clue to what's going on? Only the front doors (driver and front passenger) are operating properly.
View 10 RepliesBattery has died..... tried charging it and my amperage is spiking like crazy and wont stop. Prior to all of this my dash lights and gauges were fluctuating at best non responsive at worst. I believed that i had a short in my light switch but with it removed my problems are still consistent my battery terminals are fine, and my battery cables are in good condition. I do not know where the short could be ( i know there are thousands of locations).
View 1 RepliesAll the gauges on the dash will die for a second and the engine cuts out and the car jerks then it will come back on and everything is fine. Sometimes the gauges turn off completely and the car will die and will not start for several minutes. I will try to start the engine but it will not start until the dash lights come back on. The first time this happened to me I changed the air filter and the car ran fine for a month. So when it happened again I took my air filter out put it back in and again the car worked fine for a couple of weeks. Now, It doesn't work to mess with the air filter at all. The car is cutting out more and more.
View 2 RepliesI am i the process of installing a F-650 dash kit. I am going to relocate my DP tuner to a location next to the power source to the right of the heat/ac control section. I am going to cut out a section for the mounting bracket. My questions are:
1: What's directly behind that section?
2: If there is something directly behind it, can I remove just the front section of the dash or do I have to remove the entire dash from the windshield?
I am going to have to remove something anyways for the lower kit to be installed.
So, about 6 months ago, I bought a 1999 Dodge Ram just to keep around the house to do odd and ends jobs. Not a daily driver. I might have a need for it every few months. Well, a few months ago, I went to start it and the battery was dead. I have a battery charger that tests the battery. It said the battery was bad. So, I bought a new battery. A few days ago, I went to start it... again with the new battery, it was dead.
Put the charger on it and it said again that there was a shorted cell in it. So, I returned that one under warranty. Now went to start it, dead again (a week later.) So, I guess it's obvious it's not a bad battery (or at least the bad batteries are a cause of something else wrong.) I'm guessing there's a slow drain somewhere in the truck. How to find it?
I don't know if this has anything to do with it... Ever since I've owned it, every once in a while when driving the truck, all the gauges on the dash go to 0. Then it will just randomly start working again. Don't know if that has anything to do with the battery dying problem.
All dash lights and gauges went crazy with a picture of battery in screen and then stopped working for a few miles before working again. I was cruising @65 and this happened and downshifted to 2nd then quickly to 3rd and wouldn't shift again. Stuck in 3rd gear.
Had it scanned and got
P0740
P0753
P0758
P0785
All shift solenoids. Would I just buy a new valve body with new solenoids?
I would occasionally have the gauges go crazy and battery light go on but would go away and not have any codes stored. It would only do it towing and always thought it was a ground issue with th
I have a 2006 Jeep Commander. Periodically, and quite inconsistently, all the lights on the dash board flash on and off while simultaneously all the gauges drop to zero and the air stops blowing out from the vents. My car will continue to drive and all lights work along with the radio. This has happened while driving at 75 mph on the highway and my car will continue on as if nothing has happened. I know this isn't good, but completely baffled by it all. I have taken it to a Jeep dealer and they only saw there was a weak reading from my battery, but the battery isn't even two years old so I have yet to replace it.
I'm including a video I took while stopped at a light so you will see the RPM's drop down, but since I wasn't moving the MPH remains at zero.