I think I need my exhaust flex pipe replaced. My car sounds so old and crappy when accelerating. Is there anyway I can cut this out and replace it myself without welding? If I do need to take it somewhere can someone recommend a good replacement part? Here is a pic of it....
flex pipe camry 5.2.2015
My flex pipe recently broke, and as a temporary fix I pieced it together using a universal flex pipe and some exhaust tape and clamps. When shopping around, I came across this:
Walker Exhaust Pipe 50465 - Read Reviews on Walker #50465
Is this an OEM part for a 2008 ford escape 3.0? It looks somewhat correct, although I do not remember seeing the other two fittings in that picture on it. (It looks like the end with the flex pipe is the end that connects to the catalytic converter, and the other two connect to the front and back headers on the engine, but I don't recall seeing a fitting like whats on the end of that flex pipe on my car (It could be that it was cut off, too).
If this is the OEM one, then perhaps the original exhaust shop cut off the fitting between the cat and where the flexpipe attaches. Is there a way that I can get parts to re-make this section of exhaust so that I can use this piece? The flex pipe they originally put in was too big and it came loose again forcing me to have to rig it again since I can't weld, and needed to get it fixed quickly.
I really do not want to replace the entire exhaust system if I don't need to, and hoping I don't have to.
How to replace this bad flex pipe....
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View 4 RepliesI recently had my 06 Hyundai Sonata 3.3 v6 brought into my local repair shop for a flex pipe replacement and ever since I got it back the check engine light has come on. I brought it back in, they said the 02 sensor needed replacing, replaced it free of charge, got the car back light went back on again and they said this time they put the wrong sensor in so they replaced it, now the light is coming back on again. It seems to go on for a day then go off for a day. I've only had it back for about 3 days so far.
Could this be perhaps the 02 sensor needs to break in or the computer needs time to reset or something like that? What could be causing this issue? Should I wait a couple more days before bringing it back in to have them.
So I did the seafoam trick and I came to the conculsion that my exhaust leak is coming from either the manifold or the flex pipe. There was no smoke coming from under the car only a mist of smoking coming up from the back of the engine, probably by the manifold or the flex pipe. I do not see any visible cracking per say. I have attached a picture of the end of the flex pipe and it almost looks like someone may have tried to seal it before? I don't know if that is normal or not as seen in the picture.
2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 ...
Just like the title says, getting crappy mileage. all my driving is city driving and on weekends i go on the highway for about 3 miles to get to work, i4 2013 camry getting 19.8 mpg, does that sound right for just city driving? Car has 6643 miles on it bought it in May 27th.
View 14 RepliesI had the oil changed on my 2002 Civic at the Honda garage. They said the pan was badly rusted out and beginning to leak and that the pipe (exhaust pipe?) would also fall apart from rust when they went to change the oil pan. They said it was unsafe to drive in the meantime because the pan is so soft. If the pan springs a leak, I can just pull over and get a tow, right? I hadn't even noticed the leakage, it's minor. I'll take it to an independent garage for an estimate, but what should I be expecting for something like this?And can I safely drive it around town in the meantime?
View 19 RepliesMy Elantra is at 14k miles and it has happened twice now that the pipe has released white/grayish smoke when accelerating abruptly (pretty much forcing the engine) on the highway above 60mph. I can see in my mirror that it leaves a pretty big smoke screen behind me.
I took it for an inspection after the first time it happened and the mechanic said it might have just been steam and that I should not worry about it. Since my 15k maintenance check is coming up, I will ask that they actually check on it.
I'm also curious to know if this could cause me to get a ticket? I'm thinking I could get pulled over for "imparing the vision of drivers behind me and making it dangerous for them", or something like that.
I had my E in for service today to get her fluids changed and to replace her engine oil with Synthetic finally (second service for her).
I had noticed a rattle in the undercarriage for a few weeks now and assumed it was a common TSB for a heat shield that rattles. As it turns out, it is the resonator pipe that needs to be replaced (under warranty). I've never had to replace one before so hopefully it's just a one-off!
Otherwise, I can already tell she's happy to be filled with some wonderful Synthetic...
I have a '02 Jetta Wagon with 180k miles. The plastic coolant pipe on the side of the head had been weeping (as they do) and I decided to replace it last night. The pipe replacement went smoothly and uneventful. When I removed the pipe as usual a normal amount of coolant spilled from the head down onto the trans area. After the replacement, I hosed down the top of the tranny with the garden house. I then took the car out for a drive.
First thing I noticed that my CEL was off (it had been on for a small emissions leak) and that seemed odd. Then about quarter mile down the road I noticed she was not shifting. It would hit maybe 30 at 3000 rpm and just stay there. So I pulled over and turned her off and looked under the hood...all seemed well. Started it back up and the CEL comes on right away. I drive and still stuck in gear.
I get home and run a cheap CEL check and get 00281 and 00652. Which seems to be fault codes for the VSS G68 sensor. So I check my connectors, take apart and make sure they are clean and dry...all seems good. I clear the codes and start it up and codes are right back again and stuck in gear.
It is late so lat thing I do is check the resistance of the G68 and get pins 1-2 800ohm, pins 1-3 800ohm, pins 2-3 1600ohm. I also check pins on G38 and get 1000ohm there.
I have 4200K on my SF Sport Limited. Car was ultra quiet when running, perfect. Got my oil changed at the dealer yesterday, and now it idles rougher, and pretty much drive like i am in ECO mode. Turbo doesn't sound as smooth. This sucks. Looked at the receipt from the dealer and it says he used Castrol 5w20 oil. My manual and the oil cap say 5w30.
View 134 RepliesThe lights on the bottom of the side mirrors looks crappy, every light on the car seems to be LED or high quality looking....then you have those cheap looking lights come on when you approach the car.
I was going to just order LED replacements, but I was thinking of replacing with the lights that project Lexus on the ground. On search it kept bringing up the projection lights for the light on the bottom of the door, not in the mirror.
I have a 2006 Camry 2AZ-FE. ONCE IN A WHILE when I start the engine (especially when cold) I get smoke coming from the tail pipe. It's been an ongoing issue for the past two years....what is the cause and what area should I look to repair? I check my oil and coolant at least once a month and it does not get low.
View 2 RepliesMY toyota camry is smoking white smoke from my tail pipe after I changed the oil in it which it had not been changed in a very long time and now a couple plugs are fouling out too.. what this could be...
View 5 Replies2003 Camry with 141,000 miles. Last 3 months when I start it in the morning, I can see white/gray smoke coming from exhaust for about 20 seconds, then it ends. Car is running no differently ... I'm wondering if it's a PVC or there is an issues with transmission or antifreeze getting into engine via some sort of gasket leak.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Toyota Camry, XL-E, 4 cylinder vehicle with 156,200 miles on it. The car has been serviced regularly since buying it new and is in excellent condition. My problem is that when starting it for the first time every morning, quite a bit of white/bluish smoke comes out from the tail pipe. It then clears and I don't have the problem for the rest of the day no matter how many times I start the vehicle. The next morning the same thing occurs on the first start and first start only. This problem has been occurring for the past six months. The vehicle seems to be running good. I recently put 1500 miles on a vacation trip and it ran fine. I have discussed this problem with several mechanics and they cannot provide a definite analysis or solution. I have been told that it is possibly a cracked head gasket, cracked gaskets or oil leak being burned off the engine when started for the first time. What do you think might be the problem and what course of action would you recommend I take?
View 8 Replies2 wks ago I was running down I95 at about 95-100 mph (basically floored) in a rush to get somewhere on time. Since then my truck has been running for crap. It threw the p0171 code when I checked it. When driving under normal conditions it pings a lot and my mpg is down about 3 mpg and has this hesitation when you get on it. Even when you accelerate at a normal rate it surges a little, it pings a lot and has a loss of power, about 30-40%. It feels really sluggish and doesnt want to pull and then you will feel it starting to pull a little harder then it starts to surge/hesitate a little again.
Truck has 147k on it. I was having a similar situation until I had the plugs replaced at 125k, so I figured the plugs shouldn't be the problem. So I replaced the fuel and air filters, cleaned the maf w/maf cleaner and Throttle body w/tb cleaner and replaced the pcv with a new one from ford. Still pings bad under load and still has the hesitation/surging and crappy fuel economy. Its running smoother but no fix yet. This is crazy trying to pinpoint this issue. The detonating isnt crappy gas because I used super and it still detonates quite a bit.
Its a 06' F250 5.4 3V XLT Lariat SC FX4....
I have a 010 Ford Flex. It has 36k miles and bought it a yr ago with 24k miles. I have had 2 or 3 wheel bearing replaced earlier this Summer and one of the replacements already went bad and was replaced yesterday. This makes the count 4 now.
I say 2 or 3 because they had to get 3 of them. I am not sure that they replaced 3 of the bearings or if two were replaced and one of the replacements were bad and had to be reordered. I smell inferior parts. Love the Flex but am afraid the bearings issue will reoccur.
Got 99 Grand with a issue. It'll run fine then you come to a stop light and it'll die. try to start it and it'll rev to 2000 rpm then drop to almost nothing then rev again then die. It may do this once or 2-3 times. If you keep your foot on brake and give it gas you can keep it running put it still revs. Once at highway speeds it runs normal. When you get home or wherever and shut it off for awhile it'll start and run normal. Had it in shop twice. No codes. Replaced pvc valve and hose, fuel filter. They said start replacing stuff till it stops. I don't go there anymore. Another shop said unless it does it for them they wouldn't know where to start. Of coarse every time it does it, by the time I get it to shop it runs fine. I can do brakes, axle shafts, bearings but electronic fuel injection stuff still baffles me.
View 4 Replies