What is the correct idle speed for a 2004 LE 4-cyl J-car? Mine seems to be idling around 500, according to the image, below.
Seems a little low, and when I start out it seems a tad sluggish until is stabilizes from the low idle to operating speed. Almost sounds like a sewing machine when she idles.. How does one adjust idle speed if necessary.
I have a 2003 Toyota Camry LE V6, It has 15 inch stock wheels on it
If I go to a larger wheel, is it possible to change the wheel speed so that the speedometer reads correct? If I have read correct, the stock offset is +45 and the lug pattern is 5x114.3 and a 6.5inch wheel?
04 Camry XLE, 63k miles. Since we bought this car, it has pulled to the left. I've taken it to two shops I trust and they showed me the report showing that the alignment is correct. This leads me to believe there is a worn joint somewhere that allows the front wheels to aim a bit left when driving. Where would be a good place to start troubleshooting?
Background: So far, I've called Toyota to verify that our car is up to speed on all TSB's and it is.
I've put my hand over the intermediate steering shaft upper joint while my wife moves the wheel side to side. There is some play there, but not much. I'm not sure how much there should be.
97 shortie. 3.0 245,000 miles. I've already cleaned the throttle body and the idle air control valve. Throttle position sensor reads 5 volts, good ground, and a smooth voltage increase from idle to wide open throttle and back down. Which of these codes is most likely to cause erratic idle? Mostly in the morning.
P0340 Camshaft position sensor.
P1443 Evaporative purge flow sensor.
P0401 Insufficient EGR flow.
P0171 Air/fuel ratio is too lean or rich for PCM to correct.
I doubt it's number 1, and number 4 seems too general to be any use. I'm leaning toward number 3. Seems I read somewhere that the tube from the exhaust gets plugged up. This started when I disconnected a plug from the blue air bag box to get rid of that beeping. Coincidence?
A couple of times over the past several months (once last summer and again last week), my 02 Camry LE 4-cylinder has lost/forgotten the idle speed and stalled. Simple enough to fix the issue, but aggravating and possibly dangerous (last summer it happened while I was in stop-and-go traffic on the interstate). What causes this?
View 1 Replies02 camry 2.4 I4 LE ... before, around 100K miles ... engine light on cause by Catalytic Converter issue, used magic way in this forum,the engine light has been solved successfully.
right now, 175k miles
problem:
1. engine light always keep flashing when driving.
2. low idle speed <500 at any gear except "Parking".
3. gear "D" at stop, start, reverse, accelerate around 50 mph, whole dashboard was vibrated
action made:
1. "dogbone" motor mount was broken and has replace brand new.
2. throttle body cleaning has done.
Camry 2000 CE 102,xxx miles. My car died in Jan 14, after have P0770 for while, only Reverse gear work. The mechanics said the tranny need to re-build. I had him bring the tranny to tranny shop to re-build ($1650), then the code still pop up. Brought it back, they said the ECU needs to be reset. I had the car next day then that code pop up again!
They replaced the Solenoid E. The code is still there. Brought the car back, they took the tranny to rebuild it again. Drive the car for a day, the darn code pop up again, now they blamed on the ECU. Ok my mechanic guy replaced it at my own cost for part ($150) but the code is still there. This time they blamed on the high idle rpm approx. 1600-1800. My mechanic tried to fix the high idle speed so the tranny stop blaming other causes. He cleaned IAC valve, replace O-rings (I don't remember the location of them) then he said whenever he inserted the new ones, they start to crack!
Since having my engine replaced with a newer used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
View 3 Replies1992 camry 4 cylinder ... Since having my engine replaced with a used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 Camry XLE V6 with about 70k with a CEL P0171 that came on yesterday. Looks like that code is for a lean condition. Could it be a bad O2 sensor or is that a different code and what should I look for to fix this code?
Also, I'm not sure if this is related but for the past few months my engine has sounded different. When I first start it up and at low RPM like 2,000 and under the engine sounds like a go kart, not necessarily louder it's just a different lower tone that it never used to have. It has sounded like this for 6 months but the light just came on yesterday.
I am a new buyer' bought my prius 2008 about a week ago. the is something i cant understand, when a the engine runs at idle speed, the fuel consumption monitor shows 99.9 km/liter ! ! ! and it's also calculated at the average... is it something i should worry about ?
View 6 RepliesAs the title says the 2004 Elantra only has a/c at idle and low speed. It started with the a/c stopping, and a mechanic gave me as story about the wiring going to the compressor being faulty. He jumped a wire from the drivers side fan to the compressor. It turned on the compressor and I had cold air again. or so i thought.
Now, it's cold at idle or slow around town stuff, but as soon as I get on the highway it stops working and blows outside temp air. Is it the compressor? If not, I wondered if the fan (drivers side) is turning at highway speeds and not back on till I stop.
I have a 2008 F-150 4.6 the AC blows cold driving down the road, but when I stop and idle it gets warm, doesn't blow cold took it to a shop they told me it was the electric clutch fan 550 bucks to replace was bad the truck doesn't overheat and the fan is working and kicking up a speed at idle just want a second opinion before i spend that much. I can get as to what might be causing the problem
View 8 RepliesI am going to have an IPR EGR delete done. Having a hard time telling whether I have the round or square EGR. Looking on the passenger side anywhere to look specifically so I make the correct ID. Want to order the correct one. They said build date is not a good way to ID.
View 9 Replies2004 2.4l engine has high idle speed aprrox. 1000rpm.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 2.7L V6 GLS Hyundai Santa Fe AWD that I purchased about a year ago. The car has about 114,000 miles on it I believe. My problem is that I have an annoying vibration at idle and at highway speeds of 60-65 mph. The vibration decreases somewhat towards 70 mph. The vibration at idle is usually present, but sometimes vanishes for no apparent reason. The car is very smooth below 55 mph, but when around 60-65 mph becomes quite violent at times. The side view mirrors shake very badly and the vibration can become tiresome.
Originally the shop believed that the front axles were the culprit and replaced them – this mitigated some vibration felt through the steering wheel, but not much of the vibration throughout the cabin. The wheels have been balanced 3 times, alignment checked, and wheels do not seem to be bent/dented. (The tires were road force balanced)
In addition I have also had the following work done:
-2 oxygen sensors replaced (both post-catalytic converter)
- 2 Catalytic converters (replaced to pass emissions)
-Timing Belt Replaced
-Serpentine Belt Replaced
-Idler Pulley and Auto-Tensioner Replaced
-Ignition Coils Replaced
-Spark Plugs Replaced
-Transmission Fluid Change
-Oil Changes
-1 Tire Replaced (Sidewall Blew Out) (Michelin LTX M/S2 Tire)
-Air Filter Changed
-Crankshaft Position Sensor Replaced (It was Corroded Away)
Why the car is vibrating so that the mechanics can check it out. One idea I have could be the engine mounts – this would explain the vibration at idle (in park). I drive about 10 hours a week on the highway at the speeds that cause this vibration.
I was playing around with the navigation system of my 06 RX400H because I read about the motion override online; however I was being stupid and chose the wrong option under the "load" menu, so the navigation system kept telling me "insert correct disk. ". Hoping that I could find a simple "reset" option there, I was playing with the diagnostic mode quite a bit. One setting allow you to select the navigation unit start up logo between Toyota, Lexus, and None. There is another interesting option called "car setting" don't know what it does.
Seemed like it let you toggle between a numerous of settings, I remember one being 9001X4WD or something. I didn't know what the setting does and accidentally changed the vehicle setting for my navigation unit. After confirming the edit, I realized that the mapping for all the buttons on my panel completed changed! First of all the map button (which wasn't working at the time because I had the wrong load option) became the "Audio" button that is similar to the audio button on my other car, 06 IS350, it showed me all my audio presets and I could choose using the touch the screen (normally this feature is disabled for RX400H).
I realized I might have screwed up the setting and wanted to change back to the original vehicle setting. I couldn't find much information online, so I figure I probably hit that set button by mistake 2 or 3 times, so I reverted the car code back to what it was 3 selections ago, and bam! My panel buttons are messed up even further! Now I don't even have access to the "info" button any more! I can still get access to the first level diagnostic mode using the "display setting" (display key is mapped to the info button now) then left upper corner + left lower corner method, however I can't change the vehicle code in this mode.
I took the car to a local dealer, and the service tech was like "what the heck did you do" and he said he don't know how to fix this except to replace the whole navigation ECU which would cost thousands of bucks. I asked him it would be as simple as getting access to the onboard ECU memory and rewrite it and he said the data format is Toyota proprietary and the dealer doesn't know how to fix it.
Of course I wasn't satisfied with the answer I got, I took the car home. Following some good information on forums and navigation ECU replace instructions on AllData, I was able to remove the navigation ECU from the car, then took it apart, disconnected the power daughter board, pushed the black reset button(?), and then put everything back together. I have seem people saying this method working and not working, but for me it did work. When I restarted the vehicle, the "loading data do not turn off" screen came on, and after the system booted, GPS navigation is working as usual now. On e interesting observation, before the GPS unit has established a connection with the satellites (took about 2-3 minutes to do so), the default location for the vehicle in the system is somewhere in Washington D.C.
Now I have undone my "load version" mistake. However, without the "info" button being mapped to the dashboard, I don't even have access to the menu where you can change the "car code", so even if I know the correct code now, I wouldn't be able to enter it. also it seems that I was able to reset the ECU when I took it apart, I am suspecting that the setting for "car code" isn't store in the ECU but it is stored somewhere instead.
2004 Trailblazer 6cy. 2WD - has been experiencing a very rough idle, engine shudders - no matter how long it's been warmed up. Wants to stall off red lights and at very low speeds. Not throwing any lights yet - but the speedo is out ( a cam shift typical problem for this car) so I don't trust the console for lights. Worse when the heat or air is on. Rides fine with more gas/higher speeds. Definitely worse in colder temps but continues even after 40-50 mins of driving. I've heard a number of things, but can't afford to fix them all. I've heard plugs, dirty throttle camshaft, sensors, cam actuator solenoid, etc. All seem to have people who said it fixed and didn't fix the issue. Worried I'm going to stall pulling off a stop and rear end someone any day now. Where do I start!?
View 2 RepliesI have recently bought a 04 f250 6.0, and it has the intake thumping noise that varies speed with idle... I was told it could be a broken rocker, a bent push rod, or a broken roller... I am not that much experienced with diesels. I've spoken to the dealership, and they don't wanna fix it, they said it wouldnt hurt it to drive it like that, but the noise bothers the hell out of me, and everyone notices it. so i wanna get it fixed. I am hoping its just a rocker. if it is just a rocker how deep am i in? truck has 240xxx miles on it, and runs perfect other than that noise.
View 7 RepliesLast week, our 2004 Camry's dash stopped displaying information - fuel gauge / speed / etc. two nights ago, I reseated a number of fuses, and it worked for a while, but stopped working again yesterday. All the fuses looked intact, even though some of the contacts were a little gunky. I cleaned them off, but it continues not to work.
Additionally, after reseating a number of fuses, I get 5 quick beeps when turning off the car, which may be coming from our aftermarket radio.
I read on another site last night to disconnect the battery, and that may reset the computer, and relight the dash. I did that, it didn't fix the problem, and afterwards when I started the car the idle was so slow the car wouldn't even stay running. After about 20 minutes, the idle was still very low, but the car would run. When I checked it this morning, it was idling fine, but the dash still wasn't lighting up.
The seatbelt lights and gear light up ok, but nothing else on the dash works. Battery, alternator, dash? What does this sound like?
I have a 2004 Toyota Camry XLE with the 2.4 Engine. When I am driving the car it runs fine. When I stop the Idle goes way down if the AC is Running. What could be causing this problem?
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