My mother-in-law has a Camry and she is pulling codes for running lean and airflow leak detected. The little red circled device mounted on the side of the air intake boot is hissing out air, yet I don't even know what the thing is called....
View 7 Replies04 trailblazer, 4.2. Running rough and SES light on. Had codes pulled and showed p0340 (CMP sensor circuit malfunction) and p0300 (Multiple engine misfire detected). Replaced the CMP sensor and left negative battery cable unhooked for 20 minutes or so to clear the codes. Upon start up no more SES light and idle was slightly better. Within seconds it SES was back and it is again running poorly. Cruise control is no longer functional as well.
View 7 RepliesOkay, so a few weeks ago, my tire blew out on the freeway. Of course my spare wasn't in there and when I got one I couldn't get the lugs loosened. My 4way was too big on all sides. It was late, I am a single mother of two young kids so I had no choice but to drive slowly to get it off the freeway. The next morning I came back fully prepared, got my car in to get a new tire. I have been driving with ONE code for my CEL, but at the shop (where I use to work) I used the scanner and it threw 5 codes.
P0300 Random misfire
P0442 Small EVAP leak detected (this one was already there)
P0420 Catalyst system below threshold bank 1
P0301 Misfire cyl 1
P0303 Misfire cyl 3
My beautiful love is an 02 Jetta 2.0 4 Cyl. Now, since 4 of these codes popped up AFTER my first blowout (I turn 30 next month, knock on wood)
Did driving my car at 5 mph about a mile and a half (everywhere up until the gas station was NO PARKING) do something to my car? All of a sudden, any in town driving ESP IDLING makes my check engine light blink and my car has no power I just have to pull over wherever I am. I checked the car out myself on the side of the road and my cat was glowing. After this I do not drive my car.
So, what should I do. I did a tune up. Should I replace the 02 sensors then the cat?
I've got a 2000 VW Lupo, essentially a small Golf, with an 1.4 motor, automatic. 40,000miles. The car's got the symptoms of a dirty mass airflow sensor but, when I removed what the manual said was the air temperature sensor all I saw was the open end of a small metal tube. No mass airflow sensor. The mechanic at the VW dealer was also perplexed as the specs for my motor (apq) says it has one. At any rate, the car suffers from sluggish performance going up even moderate hills and doesn't get the gas mileage that it should. What else could be causing this? Also, does one need to clean the air temp sensor in the same way as the MAS?
View 4 RepliesHere are the codes I'm getting:
P0455 - large evap leak
P1451 - main control (evap canister)
P0306 - cylinder 6 misfire
P0174 - bank 2 lean
are these all related? Or two separate issues. I have replaced all the evap lines with new lines. I have a new egr valve, and exhaust manifolds, and what should I look at 1st
2003 Camry LE, 4 cyl, 165k miles – Got all of the above codes. Obviously checked gas cap and no issues there. Checked both VSV underhood and had clicking. Checked VSV at canister under vehicle and no clicking. Used a Dremel oscillating tool with flat metal blade to cut off rusted Philips head screw. Removed VSV and checked by jumpering to battery. No clicking, but did draw a tiny arc. That told me it was “trying” to actuate. Sprayed PB Blaster into hose fittings of VSV and mowed the lawn. Came back to VSV and it now actuated – but very slowly and delayed. Sprayed electrical contact cleaner in hose fittings with the VSV jumpered and open. Activated VSV several times and sprayed contact cleaner through the hose fittings several times – both directions. VSV began to active quickly. Put VSV back on vehicle. SES light went out by itself after it ran the EVAP test.
View 3 RepliesTook my Camry into the dealership for some preemptive work. Mechanic located a small oil leak under the car. Went through several iterations of cleaning/driving it for a few days to see if the issue would reoccur, unfortunately it seems to been a consistent leak (small).
The mechanic was unable to fully pinpoint where the leak is coming from (something about the oil riding down the power steering line down). We started off with two potential locations:
washers around/near the VVTI line, the housing on the engine. I've been wanting the metal VVTI line for a while, so I went ahead and replaced it. Unfortunately, the leak continued.
I was advised that in order to work on the housing on the engine (describe as possible bad seal) they would have to remove the power steering and the engine. Estimate to be 15-20 hours. They would remove the housing and reapply the seal.
Would like to reach out to the members of TN for advice. As of right now, the leak is very small and there has been no noticeable oil accumulation on the drive way. Still, this issue is somewhat annoying.
I've attached a pic, there's a very small drip of oil. It's located on mid/passenger side of the bottom bay.
2012 F250 6.2L - AC will be working well with all fan speeds, then airflow just stops and compressor kicks out. Will run (or actually not run) that way for 4-5 minutes, then all of a sudden the compressor kicks in and airflow restarts, and air is nice and cold for another 10 minutes or so when it'll cycle off on its own again.
I've tried all different combinations of AC/MaxAC/fan speeds/and temp settings with no change in behavior. Only occurs in warm weather when AC is on; when just using heat the blower never changes on it's own and everything is great.
BTW - I've looked through all the HVAC FAQs and probably 200 different threads that come up under different search terms, but haven't seen this particular problem. If it was just lack of cooling but airflow didn't change, then it'd be easy. Or if it was only blower issues in certain speed settings, that's got lots of fixes too. But nothing where cooling and fan quit and restart on their own together that I've found.
I tested my new VCDS today a HEX-USB+CAN. I got CAN: Not Ready. But that's impossible.
My guess is that the OBD2 interface I got is faulty.
My van stumbling upon acceleration. Well now I am getting the following codes and the van barely has enough power to move. The codes are: P1860 Enhanced: Tcc Pulse width modulation sol ckt electrical, P0758 Shift sol B ckt electrical, PO755 Shift Sol B malfunction, PO740 TCC ckt malfunction
View 7 Replies2005 with 123,000 miles. I have owned for a few thousand miles. Car was dealer maintained at every recommended interval. Car runs perfect.
After car sat for a week or so, I drove it and the red triangle popped up along with PROBLEM statement and take to immediately to dealer symbol. Red Triangle and other warnings repeats every once in awhile - will go a day without, and then will come on and off within a couple miles. Car continues to run fine. There are no other check engine lights. I have checked all the fluids and they are fine.
The battery charges fine, and holds the charge overnight. I have a generic code reader and there are no codes. I have read other posts, and there are always problems that seem to come with the Triangle. Gas mileage is fine as well.
I was having an issue with my car not going into boost so I plugged my code reader in and it had 2 codes 1 was p1200 n249 malfunction and the other was diverter valve malfunction so I did the quick easy one and got a new factory diverter valve but it still doesn't go into boost and still reads p1200 n249 what do I need to replace or should I do the n249 bypass it's a bone stock jetta 5 speed.
View 5 RepliesNot real familiar with this code, given that my check engine light came on a couple weeks ago and they detected some errors and these codes appeared.
View 2 RepliesHave a 2000 Passat V6 5spd. Recently ran the codes, and this is what I came up with under engine.
9 Faults Found:
17833 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Short to Ground
P1425 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17880 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Short to Ground
P1472 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17843 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299): Short to Ground
P1435 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17938 - Camshaft Timing Adjustment: Short to Ground
P1530 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17829 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112): Short to Ground
P1421 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17923 - Intake Manifold Valve (N156): Short to Ground
P1515 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17529 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating Circuit: B2 S2: Short to Ground
P1121 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating Circuit: B1 S2: Short to Ground
P1117 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000
Do these components share a common ground, or connector, I imagine it is a simple fix. just wiggle fuse, or ecu connector?
I just got this car a 04 4.2l, put about 2000km on it and MIL light now on. Just got VCDS here is the scan.
I tried clearing the system too lean codes and shut off MIL and engine ran poorly, I think that is the cyl misfire codes.
Car runs fine with MIL on, averaging 10.8 l/100km hwy driving, but need to get emission tested and here in Ontario, they read the obd.
VCDS Version: Release 12.12.0 (x64)
Data version: 20130910
Monday,23,September,2013,19:21:03:35803
Chassis Type: 3D (3D - VW Phaeton (2002 > 2006))
Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 07 08 09 11 13 15 16 17 18 19 23 27 28 29 2E
34 36 37 38 39 46 47 55 56 57 65 66 68 69 71 75 76 77
[Code] ....
I bought a gorgeous red 4.0L V-6 Mustang very cheap last week because it needed a clutch. I would not even pull the car. Little did I know that the clutch kit, including the slave cylinder and flywheel, was over $600. (But that's another story.)
The car runs now, but will not go over 3800 RPM in any gear. It had NINE codes, which they cleared. I was told that they primarily pointed to the MAF sensor. I cleaned it with the recommended aerosol. I have driven it 20 miles, and the MIL has not returned, but the little wrench symbol has. The Manual says to take it to the dealer (of course). The car seems to run fairly well, with the exception of the low rev limit. It is a "fly by wire" set up, with electronic throttle.
The cleared codes were P0102, P0113, P0135, P0141, P0155, P0161, P0403, P0443, and P0446. They actually repeated on Autozone's scanner. (My six year old Actron won't link to this car for some reason.
Just put a cold air intake on my 99 f150 with a 4.6. its a CAI with a 4" tube and its not an oiled filter. there is NO vacuum leaks, the mass air flow sensor is clean. I am getting the codes 171 and 174 now and i know its from the intake because that's when it started running lean. Is there any way or anything i can adjust to fix this other than buying a 300 dollar programmer?? If I take it to a ford mechanic will he be able to fix this?
View 11 RepliesMy 04 Explorer 4.0 has been giving me the bank 1&2 lean codes. It is the fully electronic throttle body not mechanical. It seems from reading that in 04 is when they switched to the electronic version. Here are some things I have done to resolve this. I created a diy smoke machine from a paint can and air. I found a leak by the egr.
I replaced the egr and gaskets, along with the metal part that goes into the throttle body. I replaced the pcv and hose(although it looked fine). I replaced my intake gaskets. I replaced the MAF sensor.
Before all of this my lt fuel trims were +25 for both bank 1 & 2. After doing all of this my trims did come down a little to Bank 1 +16 and bank 2 +23. I dont know what to check next!
Lately my smart key start acting wearied. while car is running i get sign of key is not detected, And today i was not even able to open 2010 Gen 3 with smart key and car wont start. After 15 min it start detecting and car got started. Key battery is new but i just recently added another smart key with prius smart key. I am wondering its happening because interference of another key?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2005 F-150 W/ 5.4 triton, and am having multiple codes. They are:
P0172- System to rich(Bank 1),
P0174- System to lean(Bank 2),
P0300- Random misfire,
P0303- Cylinder # 3 misfire detected,
P0304- Cylinder #4 msfire detected.
My wife and I received her father's 2002 F150 4.2 5 speed 2 wheel drive truck after his passing. He purchased new plug wires and wanted to replace them. So, this weekend I put in new plugs, plug wires, changed the air filter, and changed the oil and filter. Started up and ran really rough. Threw my code reader on after taking it around the block and found the following codes...
P0316 Misfire detected in first 1000 revs,
P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire,
P0305 Cylinder 5 misfire,
P0306 Cylinder 6 misfire.
New plugs were Motorcraft plugs, but had skinnier center compared to the ones that came out of truck.
Where do I start? What do I do? I am really confused as I have changed plugs and wires before and always had vehicle run better or same as before change.