Camry :: Code P0128 - Thermostat On Standby
Oct 10, 2013
I have unfortunately inherited a 2007 Toyota Camry LE at the passing of an uncle. I recently purchased an Innova 3140 b diagnostic scanner which pulled up several codes. One of which keeps popping back.
P0128 refers to (according to innova).
Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temp Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature).
I have replaced the coolant temperature sensor but the codes came back after a few days. I cleared it once again and the code reappeared that same day. I have a thermostat on standby ready to install if the fix requires such.
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2002 Camry 4 cyclinder. P0128 code - replaced the thermostat and coolant. P0128 code is now locked in. Lifetd the battery cable, but it is still there when I start the engine - or - it comes comes back immediately when I start the engine. Coolant temperature looks normal on the dashboard gage when I drive the car. What should I do now?
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I'm getting a P0128 thermostat coolant below temp. Coolant level checks out. Temp sensor seems to work. It climbs to 160 and holds steady. I simultaneously had a thermometer in the top of the radiator. It went from 86 to 160 with with jump from 86 to 135 which corresponded to the temp sensor reading of 135.
I am assuming this is the thermostat opening. So, the level is right. The sensor is working and the thermostat appears to open and close. Why its throwing a code?
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I recently had the engine light come up on my Hyundai Elantra 2003. I read the code with my cheap little code reader with the torque lite (free) app on android. It threw the P0128 code which means a faulty thermostat.
Here's the web link to all the details on the code: [URL] ....
I have checked the coolant level and its good. The strength of the coolant is good to -40 Celsius. The engine fan is not running at all. I recently changed the thermostat. I'm leaning towards faulty ECT. The car takes forever to blow hot air too. It has done weird readings in the past with the temperature gauge in the cab.
I just bought a infrared temperature reader of Amazon and want to check the temperature where the water comes out of the engine past the thermostat and compare it to the reading on the torque app readings. I'm thinking it won't match.
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2009 Ford Explorer, 6 cyl, 4.0L, 74K. Read code w/scanner - "P0128 - Coolant Temp below thermostat regulating temperature". Assuming this is pretty straight forward but was wondering what the most likely culprit is (?thermostat?). Ironically, this code popped about a week ago, I cleared it and actually got my inspection sticker earlier today and then later in the day, the CEL came on again and once again, the P0128 code. The coolant level is perfect so I know there aren't any leaks.
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I have an engine code of P0128 (low coolant temp etc.) I now think it's because I no longer have an Engine Splash Shield under my engine and the extra air is cooling the engine. I took it off after backing into a snow bank like an idiot. At first I thought it might be that I poured green coolant into the pink coolant because I lost coolant cleaning the throttle body (120,000miles). This mixture supposedly causes clumping and clogs in the system etc. Since then I flushed the coolant system and replaced it with yellow coolant which popular mechanics said was OK. So I'm left with the question of do i change it again to the pink coolant (~$50 compared to ~$15 for yellow coolant, thats why i got the yellow) or do i get an engine splash guard? Or Both?
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I'm getting a P0128 code on my 2003 V4 Camry. Autozone diagnosis says it's either
a) coolant low level
b) sensor not working correctly
c) thermostat not working correctly.
As part of 90k mile check about 3500 miles ago, the mechanic replaced the coolant. I didn't check the coolant after he had replaced it but I just checked it today and it's about 1 inch below the full level. Is this normal coolant usage considering that it's been about 3500 miles and 3 months since it was last filled?If the coolant level is okay, then how do I figure out if it's the sensor/thermostat?
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I have a 2002 v6 Camry with over 270k on it. Today the Check engine light came on while driving on the freeway. When I got home I used my scan tool and it gave me the following codes.
P0128, P0440, P0446 and P0440, P0441, P0446 pending.
I understand that the 128 has to do with coolant temp and that the other codes are evap system related.
What I'm trying to figure out is what might have caused them to all occur at the same time. I know once with my 98 Camry it threw a P0125 which had to do with coolant temp issues but it also threw several other codes for a bad 02 sensor and the 125 was just a false code (replaced the 02 sensors and they went away). If this 128 is possibly a false code or if I also have a bad thermostat/sensor on top of an evap system issue.
Also. coolant level is good and I checked the gas cap and insured it was on tight, reset the codes and am waiting to see what comes back.
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I keep getting the same code for the check engine light of P0128. I have replaced the thermostat twice and the ECT sensor already. I do know know what else I can do for getting this fixed. I have checked the fans and they are working correctly. I have also checked to make sure there is nothing wrong with the head gasket. My car does not over heat, but it does take forever for the temperature gauge to rise. This is for a 2006 Hyundai Elantra. What else I can do?
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So i've had this volvo for about 6 months now.I knew when I purchased it that the two codes being thrown were p0128-Engine coolant temperature, and p0420- Cat efficiency Bank 1.Inspecting mechanic said it needed a new cat to clear the p0420....I went ahead replaced the thermostat and changed the coolant to "fix" the p0128, and cleared the codes, I think the jiffy lube state inspector did not notice the that the catalytic converter test was Incomplete when he passed it. Lucky me I guess.
But now I know that I'll probably have to fix before it gets inspected again. Eventually the p0128 came back on, so I went and got a new ECT sensor. Still doesn't clear the p0128. What am i missing? Coolant temperature sits at a 3'oclock position pretty regularly and quickly. Where to start on the p0420 besides understanding its the Pre-cat o2 sensor that is throwing the code, is there anyway that these are related?
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Got a 2002 GT with the NA 3.8 and 150,000 miles. The car has pretty much sat for the past 6 months, driven very sparingly. If it's been sitting for a while (like over night or longer) it will start no problem. If I turn the car off for a shorter period, it will crank but not fire. It will start only if I pump the gas as I'm turning the ignition.
In addition, on occasions it has died while at idle or coasting to a stoplight. After it dies it will fire back up no problem.
Fuel problem perhaps?
The "Service Engine Soon" light has been on for about a month before it started acting up. I had the codes checked at AutoZone and it came up with P0442 and P0128.
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I just had my thermostats replaced in my 6.4, and I'm concerned about the regent process. I read that when the P0128 code is thrown, truck will not go into regen. Is this true? How can I manually start the regen process?
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Car's a 2005 SE I4, auto, US-made
So, I finally got the Techstream to work; I think. I had ordered one which never came, then ordered a second one, which showed up after some five weeks. It took some playing around with the software, but it seems that I finally got it to work tonight on my old, and slow, Dell laptop (Windows 7, 32-bit), which will be devoted purely to car diagnostics, since there are supposed trojan viruses in the software.
The car's temperature gauge had been running very low, I had lost top-end power, as in, hitting a wall at 80-85 mph+ where there was no acceleration despite the pedal being floored, and eventually the check engine light came on. After the light came on, I took it easy on the car and ordered the software and cable. In full disclosure, I did a complete coolant flush in late Summer/early Fall, 2015, pouring in the proper fluid. There are no leaks and the level is correct. There are no foul odors from the engine. There is a slight head gasket leak on the upper right hand corner which I plan to address when the temps warm up again (no codes pertaining to vacuum leaks).
Tonight I managed to use the software and cable for the first time and pulled the following codes:
Engine and ECT, Monitor Status COM, DTC (Code) P0128
Occupant Detection, Monitor Status None, DTC (Code) B1771
So, do the symptoms described above, including loss of power, "match" the bad thermostat diagnosis?
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08 RX350 with ~100K miles. Two weeks ago the Check Engine/TRAC light were on, VSC light blinks, so I tightened the gas cap, and pull the negative and cleared the code. Hoping this is just a gas cap issue.
2 weeks later all those lights are back again, so my mechanic pulled the code and came up with P0128. He told me it should be the problem with the Coolant Temperature Sensor. The water pump, thermostat was replaced last year and coolant level is OK. No issue with coolant temperature and the car drives like normal. My mechanic cleared the code and told me to drive it again until the lights come back and he will pull the code again.
08 RX350 AWD
08 Avalon Touring
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I took a look at a few topics regarding fuses, and pulled my fuses to see, but didn't see anything too weird.
In any case, every few days or so, I'll go to unlock my car and the keyless entry won't work. I'll open the door with my key, turn the ignition, and notice that my radio has completely reset and essentially the items power cycle, like power was lost when the car was off.
Like I mentioned, I have checked the fuses in the cabin area (but where to start for the fuses in the engine compartment).
The car is fine 99% of the time, but this really worries me, especially since I'm looking to sell the car.
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I messed up a couple weeks ago and left the car battery running while waiting for someone. I noticed after doing that, that whenever i had the car is standby mode the red triangle would come up and stay there. Today i got into my car and when i tried turning on the car it died and only had a check engine light come on. I read online that it was the battery so i got the car jump started.
We did this with one of those jump starter boxes (not another car) and now the car is running fine. I read that jump starting a prius could cause damage to it and checked the battery levels. When i pushed the power button once the 12v level was at 12.4. When i pressed it twice the level was at 12.1 and when the car is on the level is at 13.9. My 2004 prius is now at 161k miles. Am I fine using the car as it is? or should i change the 12v, or check if the HV is alright?
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02 Camry 4 cyl.
If the thermostat ain't opening and is stuck shut, will the temperature gauge climb pretty quickly? right? I am in the process of flushing my radiator.
- I drained radiator, changed the T-stat with new OEM one and then filled with distilled water. (Ensured the jiggle valve is at 12 o clock)
- I idled the motor with cap off, heater on and purged the system of air... topped off with distilled water, waited till the fans came on etc...
- Temperature gauge reads in the normal range... even after 15 mile drive...
But, I expected the water to mix with old coolant left over and change color that hasn't happened... hence wondering.
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder and the thermostat seems to be stuck partial open. Gauge does not reach what was normal operating level before. Has not thrown P 0128 code yet. I was thinking changing the thermostat. When checking on replacement it shows 2 gaskets, one paper or rubber gasket with holes and an one o ring. Is this correct and if so where does each go when installed. Looking at the housing it does not look to be to hard a job.
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I have a coolant leak coming from I am assuming the thermostat housing or thermostat. My question is, is there a gasket behind this that I am assuming is bad or is the thermostat bad.
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I have a used 2009 Gen II with 117k miles. While taking a trip and climbing a high hill on the five, a yellow triangle came on the monitor with the word problem. Now I was going slow up the hill 55mph. I never experienced it with any other car. The battery went to purple and heater did not work.
After pressing the problem triangle it would turn to a thermometer signal. So i assume that the car is over heating. I make i to Los Angeles but then i hear a hum after shutting off the car. It's the pump running much louder.
I fill the radiator with correct fluid from the dealer and I'm thinking that the monitor warning came on only because of the fluid level. No warnings from then on.
So I buy a mini VCI and it has p0128 logged. So I'm thinking that the thermostat doesn't work. However I hear fluid moving from time to time. One day before a trip in the cool morning (around 55 degrees), I open the radiator cap to make sure it's full. It shoots up like a fountain, there was pressure/air in it.
So How do I address the p0128 problem and the no heater problem?
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My thermostat is stuck closed so it needs replacing. I searched and couldn't find a DIY but there was a thread that says you need to take the whole front end off?
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