Camry :: Clicking Noise At Alternator, Warning Lights On, Car Won't Start
Jun 13, 2012
Have a 2011 Camry base 6 spd manual. Came out from work and won't start. Electrical cutting on and off. Turn key and only only light comes on with clicking. Get a jump and it starts but all electrical comes on and off for five minutes until engine dies. Now won't start with jump and just makes clicking noise at alternator with lots of lights on and off on the dash. Seems like a major short somewhere.
New battery seems a waste at 2 years old and probably not the problem.
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Car wouldn't start the other morning and figured a dead battery but found it to be charged. Things are going haywire in the car lights blinking,relays clicking etc when i try to start it. Car was acting fine just a day prior and gave no indication that something was wrong. It's a 93 3.0 v6. I'm gonna pull the starter and check the wiring before i write it off.
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The battery light came on in my '04 F150 a couple of days ago. Terminals were in need of cleaning, so I took care of that. The next day after driving 50 miles to and from work, the battery light came on again, along with the ABS & Brake light started flashing. After shutting the truck off, it would not start.
Three days later, I have now installed a brand new alternator and battery, only to have the same symptoms pop up about one minute after start up. The warning lights are now accompanied by the passenger airbag light and all engine instruments needle sweep back and forth. Dash lights go dim and bright intermittently as RPM varies.
Do I need old fault codes cleared or is this a PCM issue?
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I have a 2014 Elantra, today it would not start, only loud clicking noise and lights flash. I moved gear shift to neutral same results, moved back into park same results. Do not think its a battery issue.
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Our 2010 Santa Fe SE V6 just developed a problem where when we turned the key, the car wouldn't start, and there was a loud clicking sound during start attempt. Battery tested 100% OK.
This often points to a starter problem, but a telling symptom was than the headlights would dim, almost going out, along with the dash lights and most any other lamp. If it was just the starter, unless dead short, this associated dimming would not happen. I also put a volt meter on the battery and watched battery voltage during cranking attempt, and the voltage showed minimal drop, so once again the battery was not the problem.
Traced the problem to the ground strap from the battery which terminates to the driver side front wheel well. Two bolts hold the strap to the wheel well, and they are oxide coated and the contact point on the wheel well is painted. This means all the current returning to the battery is essentially passing through the bolt threads and cap where the oxide has been scratched enough to be conductive.
I sanded underside of the bolt heads to remove oxide, sanded the ground strap itself which seemed to have some sort of clear coating, and sanded the paint away from the wheel well where the strap makes contact. I didn't have star washers, but if I did they would have been a good addition.
Car now starts with no problem.
I am concerned with the possibility of corrosion under the strap where I sanded away the paint, but will monitor this. I think the contact between the strap and fender wall is tight enough with the two screws to seal out moisture and oxygen.
I am also going to locate and check any other chassis to engine ground straps so I don't have any new problems in the future.
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So the charge wire (wire held on by 10mm nut) on the alternator accidentally touched the body of the alternator and it sparked. My idiot-self forgot to disconnect the negative from the battery. I hooked everything back up and now my car doesn't start.
It doesn't crank and it doesn't even make a buzzing noise or anything. The radio doesn't work, the power windows don't work. The power locks DO work, the dome light, headlights, and footwell lights also work and my amps do receive power.
There are some burn marks on my alternator from where the charge wire touched, but could that affect how the car doesn't even crank? Does the alternator have anything to do with starting the car?
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I have a 2006 Camry SE 4cylinder. Started the car this morning and heard a vibrating noise from under the hood. Popped the hood and listen closely and it was the alternator wire vibrating. I put my hands on the wire to confirm the vibration. I shook the wire and the vibration stop, but then smoke was coming out of the alternator. Is this a sign of a bad alternator?
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My 2004 Honda Accord wouldn't start this morning. Immobilization indicator was blinking. After a bit, it started just fine, as the indicator stopped blinking. My thinking at this time was that it had rained torrentially the previous night, maybe some moisture had got into the circuitry and caused a little 'hiccup.' Then, as I drove, about 5 minutes later, the car started trying to stall. The check engine light came on, then the battery light came on and flashed. The engine ran erratically. Both check engine and battery lights started blinking erratically. At one point the dash beeped at me, like the warning sound it makes when the emergency brake is on while the car is moving. This got worse as I drove. I pulled over to the nearest shop. 2 hours of looking at the car, they said the camshaft sensor and the alternator needed to be replaced. .
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Got a 97 ford explorer sport that wont start. It will go like its going to start but I've only got it to run with ether then dies got new battery n tps thinking its the alternator because i hear a ticking in that area and the battery is now dead after i charged it all the way up granted. I did try consistently to get and keep running?
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So my 02 Camry le keeps dying after I start it up, I thought it was a battery/alternator problem but when I installed both of em in the problem was still there. There was no check engine light on and as long as I keep my foot on the throttle and not let it idle down low it stays on but if I don't it dies right away. I'm getting really tired of trying to figure it out so a buddy of mine said it could be a bad TPS sensor.
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I have a '08 Camry SE. My A/C stopped working out of no where, Why it has stopped. There are no warning lights or anything, my fan blows cool but not cold. I tried adding freon but it is still the same.
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I noticed today, coming to work, my "Brake" warning light is on, on my dash panel. I engaged and disengaged the parking/emergency brake, thinking maybe was stuck there, but the light did not go out.
Is this related to my parking brake or my 4 wheel brakes? I have 4500 miles on this car. It is an XLE, 4 cyl. First time something like this has occurred since purchasing in December.
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Starting a few days ago, three lights on my dashboard display started to turn on. Sometimes they don't turn on for a few minutes after the car is running, but they do eventually turn on. The first is a red "BRAKE" light above the gas gauge. The second is a yellow/orange "ABS" light above the speedometer. And the last is a yellow/orange symbol of a car sliding, or swerving, this one besides the RPM gauge. What do they mean and why would they suddenly start turning on together?
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While stopped at road site for a while, the car could not start any more, not even the clicking sound. Lights were OK. Could not be jump started either. Waited for an hour, it was started again. Thought it's a security lock-down. But happend again the next day. Checked at a parts store, showing the battery was the problem(2-3/4 year old), starter and alternator were OK. But why there was not clicking sound? It was complete silence.
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Flashed to 1.5 v8.1 91 and had no issues with flash. Then tried to start car and all warning lights on and no start. Flashed back to Performance Pack stock version and again no issues with flash, but same problem, warning lights and dead car. Disconnected battery and reconnected without any change.
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Car won't start this morning. Put the key in, turn it, and all the dash lights come on but the MPD flickers in sync a rapid clicking noise and I get an "Airbag Error" on the display. Lights, fans, etc work. This has to be tied to the fact that I totally blanked after going out to close my windows and left the keys in the ignition for approximately five hours. The key was in the ACC position, so I assume that led to battery drain on a battery approximately three years old. I've got a trickle charger on it now.
Just figured I'd check here verify that these batteries are not too temperamental/delicate for use with a trickle charger. Also to see if the general opinion is that running the car will recharge the battery or if I should just head out and replace it since three years seems to be the life of these batteries based on what I've read.
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I drove my '02 Camry last night to a restaurant and when I came out it would not start. I have never had any problems with my Camry. I have a new strong battery.
All the lights, bells, radio, a/c, door locks, dash lights came on and work fine. There was no clicking sound of the starter. It would not turn over at all. NO SOUND AT ALL. I did move the shifter handle several times thinking it may have been the kill switch on the shifter.
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I've got the the alternator workshop on my screen and the battery light, again. I've replaced the battery (it was bad) and it drove fine for about 15 min then it came back again. Now it comes back under load (accelerating, revving). The car starts fine now but after a lil but of driving, the car idles high (1k rpm) instead of the 500-700 rpm. I turn the car off and it will go back to the normal idle. I've obviously read about a poss bad alternator but I've read about loose alternator belts. Fixing this issue with tightening the belt or has everyone just replaced the alternator?
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Whenever I push the break down and press the power button (putting it into READY mode), yellow warning lights show up on the dashboard (such as ABS, brake, etc.) for about a second or two, then disappear when the car is ready to drive.
I went to a mechanic and they told me that this is normal, and that I should only worry if those lights stay on and don't turn off. I just wanted to know from fellow Prius drivers if the mechanic's statement was correct and that this is normal and that I indeed should not worry.
- Also, they 12v battery was tested and it came out as 12.5v
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I first thought it was just a cold thing, but now it's not starting at all in a warmed garaged. The electrical system seems to go in and out, makes this crazy clicking kind of noise, and eventually will make the dashboard lights go entirely, the message system saying then the breaks have failed, pull over, etc., On a cold morning it won't crank, and when it finally does it will immediately shut off. Once I finally overcome it, the electrical system clicks and clicks, and eventually will lose dashboard lights and functions... no turn signal, nothing.
If I can get driving for 15 minutes or so without the electrical interference happening, it will run fine like normal and I can restart the car fine the rest of the day... but the next morning (especially if cold) I go through the process again.
Now it's just not cranking at all...it's clicking, but it sounds like a louder clicking than a dead battery... it's like the electrical system is overriding it entirely and won't let me get the car started at all.
Other symptoms: when I get the key near the ignition (not putting it in) the clicking of the electric system starts. Interior lights flicker, etc. Today it won't start.
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Went to go turn on my car today and it made a rapid clicking noise. When I turned it off and locked it, the lights keep flashing on and off...
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