Camry :: Check Engine Light Is On After Installing I-Throttle
Feb 7, 2013
I installed my i-throttle but I might have done some steps wrong don't remember exactly but now my check engine light is on.I throttle works fine. Is there a way to fix this and make the check engine go.
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I have a 2011 GTI with a Stage 1 APR tune. My friend and I installed an APR Carbonio cold air intake a month ago. We let the car idle for 10 minutes like the directions said after the install and followed all the directions. We then took the car out for a drive and once I hit the gas hard my check engine light came on. I haven't noticed any loss of power. The code I got was the P0299. I reset the code and drove the car carefully for a few weeks and no light. After I hit the gas hard again the light came back on.
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Coming back from Busch Gardens today. Filled up at a Shell. Got on the road and within minutes got a check engine light and the throttle started surging like when you have water in the tank (know from past experience-don't ask). Is the check engine light what would come on if I had water in the tank?
I was able to make it home after adding one bottle of dry-gas but the car is still doing it...major loss of power during mid-level throttle. I was able to keep the engine light from coming on if I was very careful with the throttle and kept the revs around 3K or higher.
Hate to take it to the stealership if not necessary. Burned 1/4 tank of gas on the way home. Should I add a second bottle of dry-gas and top off the tank with fresh gas before taking it in? Don't want to damage injectors or?
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My check engine light came on the other day and the code stated the the "throttle position is open" so after researching and everyone telling me that i need to change the sensor. I did everything after was fine running better but today only after 3 days replacing it i get the same problems. car has no get up and go hardly can push to 20 mph and when in idle i press the break it starts to bog down and almost want to shut off! and can be really loud...
Santa fe 05' 3.5L ....
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I brought my Prius, 128,000 miles, into the dealer with the check engine light on. Runs fine, and checked the gas cap. Toyota dealer said they need to replace 4 fuel injectors, replace oxygen sensor, and clean the throttle body. Check engine light needs to be off so I can pass emission test.
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I have a 2002 F250 4x4 Powerstroke with Automatic. I have been having off and on issues for months with the throttle going dead. This only happens when I start it, if it works when started it will continue working until a different start session.
I have replaced the pedal several times before learning how to check its output with a meter and am quite sure that is not my issue at this time. However, when the pedal is depressed the check engine light lites up and nothing happens.
I am thinking it must be the computer itself, but was told there is another sensor or module under the hood that could cause the issue also which is several hundred dollars to replace as would be the computer.
Is there a way to test the computer, and what is this other module/sensor if it exists that could be the issue? Unhooking and rehooking the battery to reset the computer is no longer working to buy me a few more weeks, is there a simple way to reset the computer to try?
I love this truck when the throttle works but I am getting tired of paying on a truck while having to borrow a vehicle to drive to work.
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I have a 2005 f-150 street boss with 79000 mile, and it is shooting off going down the road, and the check engine light is flashing. The first time I started it back up and it would idle fine, but the throttle wouldn't do any thing. After setting about 15 min. I started it up and it ran good. I checked the codes and it had a p2104 Throttle actuator control system forced idle. It happened again with my wife. This time when I checked the codes it had the p2104 and a p2112 throttle actuator control system stuck closed code. What could be the problem, or a troubleshooting guide I could use to try and diagnose it.
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So I just installed (well Strasse Autowerks did) my ECS downpipe with high flow yesterday, i have an 2010 GTI Unitronic 1+ and i've been using the car for an hour without any problem and then after that hour the check engine appeared and stays on in my dash.. some guy told me its normal because i have to upgrade to stage 2 so the error would disappear is that right??
And while being here i was also wondering, I'm going to have an intake later next week but what else do i need as equipment for the car for that upgrade?
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My 2011 Camry LE 4-cyl has 48k miles. Today I was driving on the highway during very heavy rain. My vehicle slip indicator light came on, along with my check engine light. I stopped at Advanced Auto for a diagnostic check. They said they couldn't be sure if it was a sensor, or maybe a wiring issue.
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I had my oil and air filter changed and tires rotated yesterday. within an hour of driving time my slip indicator light and check engine light are on! What the problem is?
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Vehicle is a 2003 SLE 3.0 L 1MZ-FE V6 Automatic. Problem: Check Engine Light on & TRAC Off Light on. AutoZone diagnostic produced three codes, P0155, all referring to Bank 2 Sensor 1. Was told downstream however after ordering matching DENSO part and then taking said part to a mechanic to install, mechanic tells me AutoZone diagnostic was incorrect. His diagnostic was telling him the malfunctioning O2 sensor was upstream, not downstream. Yet he did not tell me if it was left or right bank. He told me to find out from AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts?.I just want to make sure I get the right 02 sensor so I don't have to go through having the incorrect part installed again then removed just so I can return it to get the correct part. I've been told my car has three sensors, two up front, one underneath. I am aware it is best to get DENSO over Bosch.
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So I have a check engine light on and it goes off and on randomly and when I checked with a scanner at like pepboys it shows code P0420 which is the catalytic converter . [URL]....................
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I got a new frame engine air filter as recommended by the book, tried to install and the cover will not close properly.
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My sister has a 09 camry le I4 and on her way home her VSC Trac off and check engine light came on. What the cause is ( she checked the gas cap )...
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I just had a new header installed (deletes first cat) and had my header back exhaust redone with high flow resonator and cat. As expected it eventually threw up my check engine light, I am assuming because the poor computer is utterly confused by what my 02 sensors are telling it. I was thinking tuning, but I am not sure where to find a tuner for the camry, or which tuners would work on the camry computer.
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I have a 2002 4 cylinder Camry, and I've been having trouble with the EVAP test completing. I've been running the EVAP test to the letter, with no success, so I figure the problem might be dependent on something else not completing.
I used to get the occasional check engine light for loose gas cap. So a few days ago I intentionally left the gas cap VERY loose (it's essentially just sitting in the filler nozzle). But I'm not getting the check engine light. I think that the gas tank pressure test may not be running, and that may be why I can't get the EVAP test to complete successfully.
Conditions: The gas level is about 1/2 full, and the ambient temperature has been around 20-35 degrees F.
I'm having a hard time searching. Most search results deal with how to resolve the loose gas cap problem. The check engine light is not burned out... it comes on briefly when I start the car!
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I have a 2000 Toyota Camry that has a unique problem. The Check Engine light NEVER comes on even when first starting the car. I have access to a scanner and know that the car periodically throws a catalyst code but the light never comes on. I just assumed that the bulb was burned out.
Today while solving a non-working clock issue I had to take the instrument cluster to get to the clock. While I had it out I decided to check the Check Engine Light bulb. It looked fine so I took I replaced it with a bulb that I knew worked fine. Again, nothing. The bulb doesn't light at all. About 4 weeks ago my timing belt broke while driving (non-interference motor) and it threw a code for the camshaft position sensor but again the light never came on.
Why the light never comes on?
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A few days ago I noticed a whining noise coming from the engine and thought it was the power steering unit or the alternator. I was going to bring it in to the dealer this week but last night while driving, the check vsc light and the ABS light came on momentarily and then went off. Then it happened again and again until the lights began to dim and the engine started to shudder. So I quickly started driving home and saw the speedometer going from 0 to 60 mph, the headlights were practically off, the power window would not close, the console lights alternated from dark to lit repeatedly and the car was bucking as I sped home.
I knew the car was running on the battery alone and it was now very low.When I finally had to stop at a traffic light it stalled and would not start. After waiting 20 minutes for a tow truck, I tried to start it and it started. So I immediately drove approximately 3 minutes to a Service Station near my home and parked it there and then canceled the tow truck. Does this sound like the alternator went bad? I should also mention that yesterday before this whole incident took place, while I was stopped at a light with my food on the brake I noticed the brake pedal depress ever so slightly. I didn't think much of it because I knew I had an issue with that whining noise and was going to bring the car into the dealer Monday.
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I have a 2010 camry and I am coming up on 15000 miles so i know im going to be due for another maintenance. accordingly, the "maintenance required" flasher started going off, so i thought it was all good and i should just take it to the dealership soon. well this morning when i started it up, it started flashing the "maintenance req" but once i backed out and put it in drive, the check engine light popped up as well as the traction control light (car with squiggly tire marks behind it).
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It just so happens that I got my letter from the DMV telling me I needed to get my new tags, and this is an emissions test year for my car. I was buys the last few weeks so I figured this would be a good week to do it. Yesterday.......check engine light comes on. How does that happen???
So now I'm on a time crunch. I went to Advanced Auto this morning and they checked the code. It's P0440, an Evaporative Emissions code. Any thought on what that me be, or any checklist as to what to check first? I'm fairly handy, but know nothing about cars. I'm sure I can figure it out with some instructions.
Summary: Got a check engine code of P0440, Evaporative Emissions. On a time crunch because I need to get an emissions test done. I can probably fix it myself with some direction.
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Currently I haven't been tweaking anything to my car after driving to go and home I left to go get something to eat and after driving for a few min out of nowhere the engine light, brake and abs comes up. So I freak out a pull over to the nearest gas station and turn my engine off for 2 min and turn it back on and this time only the engine light come up. So I drove to autozone to get it scan and error p0500 comes up. Which means short circuit, vss and poor electricity something I am not exact but is it serious? Like I am freaking out right now.
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