Camry :: Charge Wire Touched Alternator And Sparked Now Car Doesn't Start
Aug 9, 2013
So the charge wire (wire held on by 10mm nut) on the alternator accidentally touched the body of the alternator and it sparked. My idiot-self forgot to disconnect the negative from the battery. I hooked everything back up and now my car doesn't start.
It doesn't crank and it doesn't even make a buzzing noise or anything. The radio doesn't work, the power windows don't work. The power locks DO work, the dome light, headlights, and footwell lights also work and my amps do receive power.
There are some burn marks on my alternator from where the charge wire touched, but could that affect how the car doesn't even crank? Does the alternator have anything to do with starting the car?
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The clock/CD player in my Prius 2001 stopped working after I accidentally touched a red wire to ground/car body. The 7.5A fuse next to it is fine, so are the visible fuses. The radio is OK too, with the previous setting.
A Toyota mechanic told me that the clock/CD player needed to be replaced since one of the 4 wires to the clock has power.
But the clock can start to run after ACC is on and can be barely visible when headlights are on. It seems that there are 2 sets of power to the clock, one for display and the other is always-on for clock running, and the always-on power is down.
After I checked the wires I think the always-on power may come from the metal box(~5"x5", is it a computer?) under dashboard if it's not from a gateway box.
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2009 Hyundai Accent w/~90k miles
The other day my car failed, showing all the signs of a bad alternator (battery light on, lights dimming/flickering, etc.).Had a mechanic look at it and it was definitely the alternator - the bracket had even broken - as well as the battery.After replacing, though, it still has a problem with charging the battery, at least on initial start.Basically, when you start the car, the battery light comes on immediately. Hit the accelerator or drive 15-20 feet and the battery light goes out and the alternator starts charging again.
The mechanic thinks it is a wiring problem and said that would cost 800+ to fix. He suggested I just live with it. Does his diagnosis seem correct? Are there other things I should look at and/or test?
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I have a 2006 Ford F250 Superduty 4x4 6.0L Diesel with an alternator/battery problem. We have charged the batteries (had them tested at auto zone), and replaced the alternator and still cannot get the batteries to keep a charge. I'm not talking a slow drain, with the ignition switch on for less than a minute it drains about 4 amps and the truck dies. We also noticed a trouble code "TBC fault" and discovered that was to do with the trailer brakes. Disconnected the trailer brake system (have been noticing a "check trailer" warning occasionally recently). What could be causing such a massive drain on the batteries?
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The battery has about 40k on it. Car has 121k. So I am guessing it is my alternator.
Like I said the current alternator is made by Denso. I would like to buy a higher quality alternator with maybe a little more cranking amps.
I also am planning on purchasing a Optima battery, should I stick with a yellow top or a redtop. I have some aftermarket audio, only amp is in the Pioneer head-unit (avh p440bt), which is connected to aftermarket 6x9s and components (JL Audio c2-690tx and JL Audio C5-650).
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What are part numbers that I need to pick up?
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New battery seems a waste at 2 years old and probably not the problem.
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Car in question is a 2003 Camry XLE I4. On rare occasion when I try to start up the car, it would crank but doesn't start. Sometimes two or three hours later and it would start right up with no problem. This has been going on for months now.
Well today the car all of a sudden died on the freeway. It was running like usually and next thing I know, it just died. In all cases no check engine light pops up at all. I got it towed back to the shop and the mechanic tried to hook up a scan tool but it couldn't connect to the ECU. Also when the key is turn over to the "on" position before starting, no CEL pops up at all. All fuses and relays are good.
ETA : It turns out the wiring under the fuse box was bad. The fuse box and wiring were either replace or repair. Since this is an intermittent problems, we will see if this is indeed the fix after a couple of months.
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