Camry :: Car Won't Start After Changing Fuel Pump
Aug 18, 2012
I ran out of gas one day refilled the tank and car still won't start. Took it to an mechanic he got it running ( saying it was the fuse and electrical problem) got it home and the next day it die on me again, so I called him up and he say it the fuel pump, so I got it replaced and it still won't start. So what's the next step on getting my car to start again.
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I worked with my buddy troubleshoot and remove a faulty fuel pump. He received it a week or so later and did the install himself. After this, he states that while pumping gas at the gas station the nozzle no longer cuts off automatically when full causing overflow. He says this has happened at different stations and different pumps. I told him to go double check connections and that everything was sealed. I am wondering what could be causing it..
2004 Passat v6 wagon auto
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How difficult is it to change the fuel pump module?
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As I say in my first thread my 2000 4 runner don't start after I change the spark plugs. I don't get any fuel pressure from the fuel pump.
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01 7.3. Cranks, won't start. Tank was at 1/4 but is full now. The lift pump runs, I can feel and hear that the motor is spinning when I cycle the key. I removed the fuel filter and cycled the key and get no fuel into the bowl. It looks like the lines are stainless from the pump to the tank so I doubt it is sucking air. I pressurized the tank with a shop vac and I get fuel coming into the filter housing. Am I missing something obvious? I have never seen an electric pump that would run and not pump fuel. I removed the suction line at the pump and don't feel any suction there.
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty V8 7.3 L. I removed the water-pump then waited five days for the oring for the new pump. I installed it and now the truck will not start. I have drained the fuel water separator and replaced the filter. On the passengers side through the kick panel I found that button popped out so I pushed it back in and still it will not run. It acts like its not getting fuel but if my fuel water separator is filing up I'm assuming mu fuel pump is working??
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I have a 09 Camry 2.4L Installed veep core an now have no power to fuel pump . I have checked for ECM sending signal to turn on (it does)have had locksmith redo security (no luck) and will run if fuel manually induced . Has rpm signal on my diag so it's reading rpm also
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I have been getting some noise from the fuel pump when the car is at idle. I am sure the noise is there when the car is moving but the road noise is cancelling it out. The noise is very subtle but a bit annoying. Do you hear your fuel pump at idle? I will take it in for a replacement.
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I have a 2010 V-6 Camry that has been sitting for a couple years, changed the oil (what a system that is !) and was wondering the location of the fuse or the relay for the fuel pump is so I can crank the car over awhile to build up some oil pressure before I start it .
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I have a 2003 camry v6 that doesn't start. There is no power to the fuel pump when the key is turned to the on position. Where is the relay for the fuel pump?
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2002 Camry, i was gonna remove manifold & 1st step was to pull relay to relieve fuel pressure(which it did) but then i needed to use car so i put it back now car turns over & immediately sputters-out unless i depress & hold accelerator. Also, fuel in tank is very low, in case that could be culpable.
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My car would not start yesterday, and I realized the fuel pump was not running. So I bought a new fuel pump today and put it on, the car still won't start, the fuel pump still does not run and I have been told to check the relay. I cannot find the relay for this car.
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What sensors etc. besides the mass air flow sensor have to be working in order for the fuel pump to run? I get no fuel from the fuel pump even though the engine is cranking. There must be other relays, fuses, or sensors I can check even though all fuses I can see are ok. How can I check the EFI relay to tell if it is ok?
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I have a Saturn LW3 station wagon. For the past few months it has randomly failed to start (it cranks/turns over but it acts like it is never getting any fuel). I took it to a good mechanic but he could not replicate the problem. The mechanic did a scan and there were no error codes. I waited until it happened again and I had it towed to the mechanic. Finally it would not start for him either. He explained to me that he tested it and inexplicably no power was getting to the fuel pump. He also explained to me that it was not the relay (I forgot the reason he gave for this, but like I said, he is a good mechanic). He was baffled but needed to get to other cars that were ahead of me. So the next day he went to check it out and it started right up.
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My pickup is giving me trouble, replaced fuel pumpand filter, flashed computer, cam sensor seems to be fine...truck will run one day then will not start on another....1500.GMC year 2000.....5.3 litre motor auto trans 4x4... Thinking on replacing computer as a last ditch effort..when we hook the computer analyzer it shows no problems...
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Before I left on Spring Break last week, truck wouldn't start. It was a Saturday morning, so I had it towed to the only open shop in town. He said the fuel pump was going out. He got it started maximizing the fuel pressure with his scan tool.
The unusual thing is I replaced the fuel pump (I have a V-10) earlier this year with a Motorcraft Pump from Amazon. I also replaced the fuel filter about 60,000 miles ago.
Does this sound right? I have never heard of turning up the pump with a scan tool.
It did fine over Spring Break, but is in my driveway right now refusing to start. I can't believe the fuel pump went out that quickly.
Does it sound like the fuel pump?
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98 Passat 1.8T FWD
Car will not start. No sound from fuel pump while cranking. Pulled up the carpets and pulled the cover and connector from the fuel pump. Ive heard the relay is the common problem. I tried checking the voltages on the harness and we get 0 while cranking. Pulled the relay and we get a resistance from T pin to pin 86. I did notice a yellow color on the white connector on the fuel pump itself around the middle two contacts.
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Ok, car won't start. fuel pump not priming. tested the fuse, no power coming to it, fuse is good. even used another fuse. my flex connection on my dp blew out, rusty had a leak there for a while. in any case patched it up McGyver style till a new dp arrives. I backed the car off the ramps and shut it off to clean up. when I went to test drive it fuel pump wasn't priming.
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Geo won't start. It has a new battery and air filter. Just replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. I don't hear the fuel pump "whirring" when I put the key in the ignition (to on position). All the dashboard lights come on when the car is in on position.
I suspect the relay or the fuse, but having trouble finding the correct one of each. What does the relay look like? i.e. part number? What is the spec for the fuse? 20amp 30 amp? This has been a great car.
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I have a 2011 Sonata GLS with ~65k miles. I have an intermittent problem with the cranking, but will not start. It sounds like the fuel pump is "whirring" before start, and this only happens once a week or so. Other times, the car starts fine. The gas tank is ~1/4 full also.
There has been another intermittent issue (not sure if it's related) - with the O2 sensor heating coil. The check engine light comes on for a day or two and goes away wit the O2 heater coil problem. However, I'm not sure a sensor coil problem would cause the car to not start when it's cranking.
Could it be the crank sensor issue? Is that issue known to be sporadic?
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My 2000 Accent GL SOHC 1.5 won't start. It has plenty of battery power to crank over. The fuel pump is not cycling, so I assumed that was the problem and replaced it. Still no fuel pump when the key is turned.
I've read on here how it could be a Crank Position Sensor or a Camshaft Position sensor. I measured the resistance of the Crank Position sensor and got 800 ohms. The specs are [0.486 ~ 0.594kΩ at 20 C (68F)].
I also tried testing ground and voltage to the Camshaft position sensor. With key on, I wasn't getting voltage there (read .028 VDC or so), but the Crank position sensor was also removed. I'm not sure if that has any affect on the test.
So, What is the most likely culprit here? Obviously I'm not familiar with most of the sensors and troubleshooting them.
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