Once my car is warm and say I go to the store to grab some stuff and go and start it it'll start but it'll turn off the RPMs hit 1.5k then the car drops. Like it chokes. But then I go to start it again and it starts up with no problem. This happens 50% of the time after the car is warm and I go and start it. What could it be?
View 2 RepliesMy wife's 2007 4-cylinder Camry has 174,000 miles and has been a great car. Recently however the car has become harder to start. The engine cranks fine but it either starts right up or it will just crank. I've learned that if it doesn't start normally, I stop cranking and try to start again. Sometimes it takes up to 4 attempts then it starts normally. It seems like it either gets the fuel and starts correctly or it's not getting fuel and cannot start.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 Camry LE V6 (made in Japan) with 195,000 KM on it and noticed that the car would crank for several seconds before it catches and starts. I have replaced the air filter, changed the spark plugs at 190K, use premium fuel and this is still happening. I have not replaced the spark plug wires as I was told at the time that it was not necessary. I notice that this seems to happen when my car is in the garage at temps above 0 degrees Celsius. When my vehicle is parked outside in a cold winter day, it seems to start quicker.
View 2 RepliesMy car had some minor front end damage repaired by a body shop. Since I got it back the a/c takes longer to start blowing cold air. If I drive it daily the a/c starts up normally. But if the car sits for a few days, it may take anywhere from 3-5 minutes before it blows cold. I've taken it back to the body shop who has in turn taken it to a dealer and nothing was found.
View 2 RepliesTriton 4.6, new air filter, throttle body cleaned, new fuel filter. Seems sluggish off idle, and when I let off accelerator, rpm's take a few seconds to come down. If the truck is setting still, a quick hit on the throttle takes a second for the engine to build rpm's.
View 10 RepliesMy wife's 05 Camry when starting revs up to 2200 rpm for 4 seconds or so: then drops down around 8-900. Should I be concerned ? if so, is it adjustable ?....I dont like to rev my engine for at least 45 seconds.
View 2 RepliesI've made posts about a rough idle before now I noticed something new about it. I noticed when I approach a red light the vibrations don't start immediately. They start as soon as the RPMS would drop a little. They stay above 500 but it seems like it's below 750. As if the engine is slightly starved from power? Now i'm wondering if it could be related to another problem I have.
Whenever I start the car, the battery light flickers until the car is started all the way. This is on a 2007 Camry 4 cylinder. So far everything iv'e done is: New NGK Spark Plugs, NEW OEM mounts (all 4) Seafoamed the engine, Seafoamed the throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor, New air filter, and cleaned the air filter box, replaced the PCV Vlave, new belt, new alternator (duralast), and a new battery (from autozone).
Noticed that when you first start the car it makes a very strange noise? Almost as if the motor was running dry for a few seconds and the rpms fluctuate a little... Is that normal? I've only recently owned my camry and was just curious. 2.5L motor.
View 14 RepliesI've noticed on first start up the RPMs go as high as 3000 for a couple of seconds and then drop to normal even at 68' degrees,is that normal? because if it is what will aspect when the temperature drops to 20 or even lower.It is a 2.5 liter 4.
View 1 RepliesI replaced my engine that had 155,000 miles with a newer used one with about 30,000 miles. since the swap my gas mileage is down by one third or more. Everything else seems fine except that my cold start idle is up to 2000rpm's until it drops to normal within 3 minutes.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Camry LE V6 with 189K on it and noticed that it takes several seconds (4 to 5 seconds) of cranking before the car starts. When the car was newer, it used to crank quicker.
Here is what I have done so far:
- Changed all spark plugs @ dealer using iridium type
- Always used Premium Fuel (Petro Canada 91 grade)
- Put in a bottle of injector cleaner (Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner)
- Throttle Body has been cleaned about 20K ago
- Oil changes are Mobil 1 5W30 year round with Denso Filter
- Battery was replaced last year with an Optima Red Top and was tested a few months back to be in excellent working order.
What I have observed is that when the weather is VERY cold outside (i.e. -20), it seems to crank quicker, but if I keep my car parked in my garage overnight and start it, it takes several seconds. I have never had the car not start on me so that's a good thing.
Auto tranny takes a half second to go into gear. It doesn't slip just slight hesitation going into gear. This rig has 173000 miles on it and I don't know its maintenance history and don't want to stick much money in it.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001.5 v6 passat and it runs good most of the time, but there are moments in which i want to take off quickly and the car doesn't GO.... the engine revs slowly and it begins to move slowly as well... then if i let go of the gas completely for about a second and then step on the accelerator again.... then it will continue to run normal again...
I also have a check engine light on... and the car also takes a while to start after i put gas in it... it needs to be cranked about 4 times until it finally starts.... could this be part of the same problem??
I have the jbl stereo and when I start the car it literally takes 2 solid minutes or so to connect sometimes i have to turn the radio off and then back on to get it to connect always has done it. Tried with other phones also i use a iphone 6.
View 7 RepliesI own a 2007 Camry LE. It's 4 cylinder and has 80k miles. Since I can remember, the A/C takes a really long time to start blowing cold air.
I'm in Miami, where ambient temp is about 90 F every day and it takes about 2-3 minutes to blow cold air. I can tell because this usually happens when I get around a certain street (SW 40th Street), so the problem is self-replicating regularly.
My father is a house A/C mechanic and he filled it with refrigerant but this has not fixed the problem. If the car has been driven and been parked under shade, the A/C blows cold air since the start. After being driven for 2-3 minutes, it blows cold air like a monster, I usually have to run it on 70 % cold and low fan - that's how well it performs.
On our 2005 Toyota Camry, we have recently noticed that the maintenance-required light takes a long time to go off when the ignition is cycled. This is true whether the engine is started immediately or the key is simply left in the ON position until proveout is completed.
The car is up to date on all services and we see no other signs of an impending problem. At the moment we do not have the ability to retrieve OBD-II diagnostic codes. What could be going on?
A140E transaxle issue... I have what I surmise is a direct clutch engagement issue. It takes (literally) 3 or MINUTES to engage reverse. And obviously the 2 -3 shift is slow also. It acts like there is a restriction in the passage to the direct piston. I rebuilt about 5 years ago, so am familiar with the teardown.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 Celica ST 1.8 liter. Over the past month, it has developed an issue with starting up. It takes several attempts to start up- sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Once its started up, it runs fine. It usually has no problems starting back up as long as I don't wait any longer than 8-12 hours. Once I get passed that mark, it gives me trouble all over again. Some days it won't start at all, regardless of how many times I try or how long I try for. Now going on day 3 of it not starting at all, turns over and sounds like it's trying, but just won't do it.
The second I stop or turn the key off, it makes a noise like it was going to try to start; however, never actually does. It's a very weird thing. I've talked to a ton of people and a few thought it had to be the crankshaft position sensor. But, I just don't think that's spot on. I've done quite a bit of research and personally think it's the cold start injector or something along those lines.
Another thing I just remembered.. I read that cold start injectors are usually on older cars only, not sure if that's true or not because I read a problem on a 2003 that was a cold start injector, which could have just been a site with bad info. But having a separate injector for "cold start" threw me off in the first place. And what I see on my car that I'm thinking is it, is solely based off a few diagrams and pictures I have seen.
Just tried to hand choke it, way closer to starting than it has been the last 3 days. Tried to give it a little gas, but still didn't start. Thought I had it a few times there. Also, noticed some oil sitting on below the engine, but on part of my car not the ground. To the left if I was standing looking under the hood. Between the bumper and the engine, closer to the engine.
My AC went out the other day. My wife said it took about 10 to 20 mins to finally start working and blowing cold and the next day it would never ever kick in anymore. Vents are blowing but just a outside temp air, also the a/c light comes on and i hear slightly different idle when ac engaged, however i dont really hear anything happening with the compressor.
View 4 RepliesI got a 2010 sonata, just outside of the warranty with 60,400 miles. as of today these problems arose out of nowhere. the husband had trouble starting the vehicle today and got a check engine light. someone came, jumped it, and was good to go.
Well he comes home on break after 20 mins & goes to start the engine again and it takes 2-3 times to actually start. it's seems to be more difficult the longer it sits; if you turn it off and start it again it's less hesitant. we then replace the old battery that happens to be bad as well, with a relatively new one from my car and have the same problem. no more check engine- but it's still hesitating.
Possible starter problem? is something loose?
So I just recently got a 2005 GLI and I have been taking care of all the maintenance first before I start modding it. But there is one thing that I can't seem to figure out and I have searched but can't find this exact problem anywhere. My problem is I will have to turn the key several times before it starts, it does turn over but will not start until about the 4th or 5th attempt. This will happen maybe once a day but sometimes it will be fine all day long. Also the ESP light comes on once the car starts but doesn't come on if the car starts normally. Now I have seen people saying ABS/speed sensor might be bad if the ESP light comes on but mine isn't always on. Just when I have trouble starting it and then it goes off once I turn the car off and back on.
For those that don't feel like reading:
- Car sometimes (once in a day or two) turns over 4,5 times before it starts
- ESP light comes on when it has trouble starting
And of course, here is a picture of the new-to-me ride .....