Had an interesting problem with my 2006 Camry (134k miles - all maintenance up to date). After returning from trip, I went to start my 2006 Camry LE and it turned over but never started. After a couple more tries, I stepped on the accelerator while turning the key and it finally started. It's starting and running fine now but that is the first time that has ever happened. The car sat for 5 days.
View 3 RepliesSymptoms:
- Check engine light: misfire on all cylinders, and "lean fuel trim at part throttle".
Started with changing leads and plugs without improvement. Then I found the tank ventilation seemed to be clogged, as there was a massive vacuum when opening the filler cap. Checked the canister and replaced a couple of corroded lines. Also used compressed air to blow through the canister and lines up to the Evap-purge valve. Seemed to be OK afterwards (no vacuum), but still misfires.
Changed the Mass Air flow sensor, and it seems the misfires got better, but instead I have some other issues:
- Hard to start when cold. Starts up fine for a second then sounds like it's getting to much fuel and dies. Possible to keep it running if pumping the pedal or holding it at higher revs.
- Rough idle when warm. (Same as before I changed the MAF and plugs/ leads.)
- Drives and runs ok when out on the road.
- Pulled the cable to the Idle Control Valve without any change in idle...?
- Got flashing engine light and "misfire cylinder 4" when giving full throttle on low revs and seond gear up a steep climb.
What could cause this?
- Temperature sensor?
- O2-sensor?
- Idle control valve?
- Coilpack?
This question is for recommendations on whether to have the dealer service (clean) the Camry's ignitors
In a previous posting, I mentioned that my Camry was hard to start after sitting in the garage for 2-3 days. Dealer "diagnosed" (guessed?) it as a weak battery, tho the cranking speed seemed pretty normal (peppy)to me. My first thought when it would not start was the fuel system (fuel pump) or dirty ignitors.
I asked my regular mechanic for an opinion on cleaning and he pretty much said "don't" unless there isa specific problem (eg engine check lite).
Could I hear from the group whether ignitor cleaning ($210) as a "preventive maintenance" is a good idea? I am not about to disassemble the throttle body or some such and do it myself, but I AM OK with adding acan to my gas tank, if it won't hurt and can work.
I just bought a used 98 chevy metro. I drove it over a total of 30 miles on test drives. Every thing was as it should be. Now it dies at idle and is difficult to restart. I have to wait til it cools down completely to get it to fire again.
View 1 RepliesCar is at the stealership right now 74k miles (CPO until 75k). Having issues with cold starts, weather has been getting into the 40's, and when coming out of work in the ramp the car has a very hard time starting (usually taking 3 times to fully turn over). However, in the morning coming out of my heated garage the car starts right up no problems whatsoever.
There are zero codes being thrown, zero lights on the dash. Brought the car in for diagnosis and the dealer has had it now for 2 days - still "unsure of the issue" but they have proposed that it is either a fuel pump (covered by CPO) or Carbon-Build up.
The check engine light is on. Yesterday twice I had the situation where when I turned the key to start. The starter motor was crankin and it was not firing. I pumped the throttle a few times to let air/gas into engine. I also opened the gasoline tank cover (where you insert the nozzle to pump gas) for a few mins and then shut it and started the car. It started. After running for 20 mins it happened again. The starter motor has to crank for some 10 seconds before it fires. Then no issues. What do you think it is??? Battery is fine, starter motor is fine since its cranking away. I am suspecting fuel pump ?
View 19 RepliesI went to check out a TDI. Got there and it had to be jumped (45F) The glow plug harness was bad. but even after we got it started and drove it for several miles to get it to operating temp, it was still difficult to start after shutting it off. Shouldn't it start up easily after being warmed up even if the glow plug harness was bad?
View 10 RepliesI'm having an issue with my 08 Accent GS. It is very difficult to start, but only after fueling. Any other time, the car starts without any problems. I have tried to simulate the issue at home by taking off the gas cap and replacing it, but it didn't have the same result.
View 8 Replies2006 Kia Rio LX with 78K miles,
I recently performed several repairs in the car including replacement of the timing belt, all other drive belts (power steering, air conditioning, alternator).
Recently, the car has developed a new problem where it intermittently has been difficult to start, but only after filling up the gas tank. The engine cranks over okay but it seems like it might have vapor lock. It seems to occur every time we fill it up. Rarely, the car has appeared to run rough for a few seconds, the electronic control module seems to make an adjustment and then it runs better. The gas mileage has decreased from typical 28-32 miles a gallon down to 23-25 miles per gallon, despite getting new tires for the car.
Additionally, the check engine light has come on intermittently…once reset it stays off for up to two weeks then will come back intermittently with the following codes:
P0456 which indicates a problem with the fuel evaporation system, which may be related to the gas cap (sometimes when this comes on, the gas cap appears to be loose, but other times it appears to be tight).
P0300 which indicates in engine misfireP0301 which indicates in engine misfire in cylinder #1P0302 which indicates in engine misfire in cylinder #2The first time that I received this warning, I replaced the 4 spark plugs and the check engine light did not come back on for a couple weeks.
I have also previously received a code for faulty oxygen sensor temperature regulation for the forward most oxygen sensor. From what I have read, this may be related to oxygen sensors were related to an exhaust or intake leak. I have attempted to carefully inspect the intake and exhaust systems and I don't find evidence of leak. (From what I have read, a lean fuel condition which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open are possible causes.
I have visually inspected the 4 coils/plug wire units and they all appear to be intact and since the engine does not run rough (it idles smoothly, seems to have normal power etc.), I believe that they're all functioning.Any thoughts about what should be my next step to diagnose and to fix this problem?Replace gas cap?Replace oxygen sensors?EGR valve?Could this be related to the timing belt replacement (CEL did come on prior to the repair but gas mileage and problem starting after fill-up has started after the change)? Carbon canister or solenoid valve for evap emissions needs replacement?(I have never been in the habit of "topping off the tank").
I've been having this problem lately, when its a hot day the car revs up passing the 1000rpm's or when I am in traffic for a long period of time it does the same and its stays there for a while ( like 5 mins) then returns back to normal. Heres a video so you can see of what I am talking about... [URL] .....
View 10 Replies2012 Golf GTI, bone stock, 18k miles. The issue is pretty straightforward. It takes longer to crank than I feel it should, perhaps 5-6 seconds, sometimes the car is cold, sometimes warm. Sometimes it cranks right up with no issue. A VCDS scan is clean. This is Atlanta weather too, so the temps are pretty mild.
View 6 RepliesRecently my 2001 F150 4x4 5.4 truck has been misbehaving by being difficult to start at random times. The engine will turn over with however will not fire. After some time, I am able to get it to fire. When this happens the truck start normally for the rest of the day and maybe several days. Around the same time, error codes for a variety of sensors would occur. This problem was traced to a broken PCM connection. When this problem does materialize, no error codes are generated. After some time in repair shop, a probable cause could not be found.
View 9 Replies1995 aero, 4.0 auto AWD. wouldn't start about a month ago and got parked. got around to working on it and it would start and run a couple seconds then just crank and crank, I tossed another edis module on it that i had with no change, tried it without the MAF plugged in, had consistent spark while cranking. fuel pump would prime just fine. after a while I was experimenting around and held the throttle WOT and got a couple coughs.
after a while of cranking and trying different stuff I had began to get a few backfires (and by this time i had the spout and the octane plug out) and I was actually trying to see if i could see backfires out the tail pipe cause i couldn't determine if they were intake or exhaust side, it finally started. it ran really rough and coughed and sputtered and backfired a few times, then after about 30 seconds it smoothed out and started idling like normal.
I took it for a drive and it ran normal, so i shut it off and reinstalled the spout and octane plug and took it for another drive and it ran better (assuming the ign advance is working, so it must not be in limp home mode)
When I first started I pulled codes 114 and 118, ACT sensor out of range and ECT voltage high (Note: when I got it started the gauge didn't show it as being very "warmed up" even though it idled about 30 minutes before I drove it about 10 miles). I am gonna let it cool for the night and see how it starts in the morning, then try pulling codes again...
My 97 Subaru sport has trouble starting when left until cold, it always finally starts, but wont rev at all until its has been running for 20-30 seconds.
Other symptoms include....Once running it also seems to be lacking power across the low rev range. but then seems fine above 4k rpm.
If i get stuck in stationary traffic for a while, the check engine light comes on and i lose all power, it hardly pulls its self off to a start. But if i were to rev the engine and let it drop back to idle a couple of times the light goes off and i get power back to set off.
I have a 2004 Passat V6. Couple of weeks ago the check engine light went on. I went to AutoZone and checked. The code read P3081 (low engine temperature). I knew it might be caused by bad coolant temp sensor or T-Stat sensor. I also experienced that the engine would not start occasionally (prior and post the light on).
My question is that whether the low engine temperature can cause the difficulty to start the engine? How can I figure out which sensor is bad?
I have cleaned the fuel injectors, put in new spark plugs and new spark plug wires. What else I can do. The only time it starts easily is when it's very hot. If I leave it off for just 5 minutes, it will start up quickly. And a few times, when it is dead cold it will start on the first turn. All other times I have to crank it for what seems like minutes. I'm killing batteries and starters on a regular basis.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1998 Explorer XLT with the 4.0 sohc engine.
Recently the truck started being difficult to start and takes a few times of cranking to get it going. Once running, it idles and drives fine on city streets and freeways. When trying to start it turns over fine but doesn't start. After a few times of that, it will finally start. Sometimes it will sputter out an die but then it will start right away and be fine.
It never starts right away when cold and when hot or after short trips its intermittent...Sometimes it will start right up...others it takes a time or two of cranking. I just replaced the fuel filter and it did not work. I am thinking the fuel pump but since its in the tank, I am hoping its not that.
My '08 2.7 has difficulty starting in the morning. It makes the normal cranking noises but won't fire up immediately. I typically let it try to catch for 5-10 seconds, pause, and try again. Then I wait a minute, try again, and everything starts fine. Then it'll start normally the rest of the day.
Pardon my ignorance, but isn't there some sort of compartment that holds fuel into the engine with a check valve that keeps it from releasing back into the tank? Could it be that this valve is leaking?
Or does it sound like I need a whole new fuel pump? I tried to find schematics, but had no luck. I tired hmaservice.com, but I'm not willing to install the Adobe SVG app (obsolete and security risk) to view the documents.
I had my 2005 Prius sitting idle for three days and when I last used the car it had 6 bars of battery (blue). Today I turn it on and it has only 2 bars of battery (purple) and the engine stayed on about 10 minutes to charge the battery. After about 10 minutes it went all the way to 7 bars (green) and the engine did its normal idle stop. Is it normal for the battery to drain that much in only a few days?
View 4 RepliesYesterday when I went to start my week old PIP, the battery was drained. There was no power to start and no power to the dome lights etc. I got out the owners manual and on page 594 there were instructions to jump start which I did. I drove it to the dealer and they checked it out. They said the 12V battery state of charge was 50% after being jumped and driven for 30 minutes. They then charged it to a full state of charge. They couldn't find any other drain overnight.
I am trying to determine why this happened. The reason was not apparent. No interior lights were left on. There were no other electronics attached. We had driven the preceding two days in EV mode virtually exclusively. I don't recall if the ICE came on. The car sat unused for 36 hours. It had been plugged in to charge the traction battery and it charged via the timer without any apparent errors.
The service tech wondered if the battery had been fully charged prior to delivery. I know the traction battery had not been fully charged because I was anxious to take delivery. Could this be a consequence of driving in EV mode almost exclusively?
My 2000 Camry --4 cyc has a problem with the shift lever on hot days. It is hard to move from P to R to N to D and the other way back to P. There has never been any liquid spill on it. In cold days, the lever shifts fine.
View 2 Replies